dclub01

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About dclub01

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    99 Mazda 626 LX

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  1. thanks for all the advice everyone. my hose is cracked and torn in a couple of spots on the hose. luckily it doesn't affect the car. maybe i'll head over to the hardware store and see if i can find some kind of flexible hose that will fit and is heat-resistent.
  2. this is the accordian hose that runs from the airbox to the hard hose that is attached to the radiator support... it's the smaller hose that is in front of the airbox when looking into the engine bay. please PM me the price shipped to 54476. the pipe should be in good working condition. my pipe has cracked and torn open at the accordian seams. thanks!
  3. i have not done this but what i have been doing is just changing out new transmission oil each time i change the motor oil. i got this idea from a thread on here that i read a couple years ago. have been doing it since. 145k on the odometer, alway get the 1-2 gear jerk (althought not as jerky since i first got the car), and otherwise the tranny has been a champ for me. just draining from the tranny plug will not replace all the oil but you keep adding new oil every 3k miles or 3 months. it's a small additional cost to the oil i buy and i just buy normal brand tranny oil.
  4. i know this is a uber-old thread but i wanted to post a great thanks as this happened to me. the first time i thought it was a fluke as i shifted to reverse and then to drive and it kep reversing. i then shifted it back to reverse a couple of times and the shtift cable must have randomly caught the lever. i can't believe i would then drive my car like this for a few weeks before it did it again, only this time it never randomly went back to catch the lever. i painfully sulked that my tranny was gone but searched and found out it may be the cable, hence i found this thread and have now fixed the cable with a thick rubber washer. i went to ace hardware and bought a thick rubber washer with the inner hole being just a tad smaller that the lever. i hooked the cable to the lever, heated up the rubber washer so it would expand, lubed up the lever, slid the washer on it, and once the washer cooled, it shrunk back down and is tightly preventing the cable from going out of place. thanks again, i would have never figure this out otherwise. i can't tell you guys how long i stared at the transmission position sensor wondering where the cable and lever was, haha!
  5. I've got a good-sized dent in my rear driver side door and although it's not as noticeable as one would think, i'd like to replace it than try to pop the dent out. i would prefer it to be black and fit a 99 LX model. No rust and decent shape overall as far as paint, weather stripping, chrome, etc. I live in central wisconsin, the closer you are the better. Shipping is gotta be mega expensive. Shoot me an email from here or at l8dystoy@verizon.net Thanks for looking!
  6. i'm interested in your passenger side mirror, i'm assuming it's power mirror right? Let me know how much shipped to 54476. You can email me directly at l8dystoy@verizon.net if you want. Thanks!
  7. Thus far the heat has been very good... after 10-15 minutes of idle in the morning, i'm getting very hot air blowing! Hope this helps other peeps out there trouble shoot the no heat thing.
  8. Sorry for the late reply, but i finally got around to replacing the thermostat... yea, i shouldn't be neglecting the car... but she is a tough girl... Anyways, with the new thermostat in, the radiator hose on the passenger side is now warm and hot to the touch after about 10 minutes of idling... finally some fluids are being circulated... also, the heat did get very hot while in idle, but it could be due to the high revving part of adding in new radiator fluid! A little piece of advice, when trying to get at the radiator drain plug, go from the top and not the bottom cause you can't see much at all. Remove the battery and battery tray and the drain plug will be in plain view and very easy to get to. I'll start her up tomorrow for 10 minutes with high heat and see if i get heat... hope this will fix it!
  9. It's kinda odd that my engine never overheated... the temp guage never moved passed the 40% point (and that's where it always goes to even b4 the thermostat took a crap)...
  10. Yep, it's my thermostat... drove home from work (10 miles and all highway going at 65mph with a 10 minute idle to start) and my hose on the passenger side with the thermostat is not even luke warm, it's actually kinda cold?! I'll swap out a new thermostat and radiator fluid this weekend and see what's up!
  11. I think it's my thermostat. Last night i took the time to burp my radiator (just i case) and lotsa air bubbles came running out. This took about 5-10 minutes so the temp guage got to about the 30% mark. I topped off the reservoir and popped the radiator cap back on. Drove it around the block for about 5-10 minutes. Came back home and popped the hood. There are two radiator hose connected to the radiator. One on the passenger side (thermostat) and the other on the driver side. Looks like my temp guage sensor is on that side next to the engine block where the hose connects into the engine. I felt these two hoses and the driver-side hose was very, very hot to the touch while the one on the passenger-side wasn't even warm at all. It was kinda warm by the end of the hose attached to the engine where the thermostat is housed. I was like "WTF"... the engine has been running for at least 20 minutes (idle + driving) and the thermostat hasn't opened up? Did the engine not get hot enough for it to open? Geez... I gotta feeling that the radiator fluid isn't cycling so the hot fulid isn't hitting the heater core as hard as it should since it will only get hot when i rev the engine forcing the water pump to work overtime and possible push hot fluid into the heater core. I forgot to check the thermostat-side hose when i got to work today, so i'll check it when i get home on my way from work. Hope this helps some peeps out there...
  12. So it's winter here and a couple of weeks ago my car started to not heat up as well. The blower works, the heater dial on the console works, and there is definitely heat coming through but just not as much. It used to heat up really fast and the air being blown out was warm to hot at the highest setting. Now, even after i let my car start for 15-20 minutes, there is barely any heat at all. It just gets kinda cool to luke warm only. I did some searching and found that my coolant level in my reservoir was way low so i topped it up to the full line and that was about 2 weeks ago. Since then there have been no change. Here's the funny thing though, as i drive the car the heat starts coming back. So 15 minutes starting then about 10 minutes later into the drive, the heat is back to normal and blowing very nice and hot like nothing was wrong. The even weider thing is that when i get to a stop light and stop, the heat goes away and it drops back down to a luke warm tempurature. The minute i start going the heat goes back to hot? What gives? I thought it was RPMs, but that isn't it either, i can rev the car in park or neutral and the heat won't get warmer than luke warm. Put the car in drive, gas it, and the heat comes back within minutes... So, heat only seems to work under load when driving? Is this a thermostat problem? Could it be the radiator cap too cause i know they both behave according to tempuratures in the fluid. Any insights would be appreciated! I'm getting sick of my windshield fogging up on the highway when the cold air hits in at 60mph. Thanks!
  13. Sorry, double posted... please delete this post moderators! Thanks!
  14. check for uneven tire wear or bubbling in the tread, this could be causing the pull.
  15. Join the club, mine does the same thing... what i've been doing is changing the tranny fluid every 3k miles along with the motor oil and praying it doesn't crap out on me. So far it's still going...