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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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About diqiu

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  1. It's not hard to fix the connector, clean it if it's dirty, or solder it if it's broken.
  2. I think your radiator fan is fine. I guess your radiatoer fan is an automatic one, when the temperature reach higher than normal, the sensor will activate the relay to turn the fan on, down to normal, it turns off. You will have to wait till the engine is warm enough, then you can see it's working or not..
  3. All right, there are two belts, a big one and a small one. The big one you can tighten it from the steering pump. The small one you can tighten it from the alternator. First you should find out which one is loose by pressing at the middle of the belt, maybe both loose. Since you have let the belt worked at the bad condition for a while, you should take them off to check, make sure they are not worn out or damaged. Here are two photos show you where and how to loosen the bolts and tight them. The first photo is the big belt with the steering pump, the yellow circle is the lock bolt, the red circle is the adjust bolt. You need 14mm wrench working with both. Counter clockwise loosen the lock bolt, then counter clockwise loosen the adjust bolt until the belt can be taken off. The second photo is the small belt with the alternator, the bolt in the circle is the adjust one, I don't bother to loosen the lock bolt from the bottom, just work with this one. Use a 13mm wrench counter clockwise loose this bolt not too much, then you need to pry the alternator to the engine side until you can take off the belt. The yellow arrow is the point where you should pry, the green arrow is your push power. Remember to mark the direction of the belts in case you will reuse them. Reverse to install. Good luck!
  4. I just replaced the timing belt and the water pump for my 96 Mazda626 2.0L. Last time it was done by dealer around 200kkms, now it's 310kkms. Look at this picture, it's about to break at anytime! Sweating...... I read the instructions written by Trebuchet03 from here, it helps a lot, here is the link: http://www.mazda626....and-water-pump/ I follow all the way according to the above link, except two portions which I did my own way, I'd like to share with those guys who may want to DIY. The first portion is the wp pulley, it's naughty, turning away whenever I tried to loosen the screws. Then I used a chain lock(cost $14 bucks), It never moves again. The second portion is the T-belt alignment. The stubborn valve springs keep making the both sprokets inward side, the "I" and "E" are not straight, trend a bit V shape. It's hard to put on the T-belt correctly without helps. Fortunately, there is a nut shape piece existing from each of the camshaft, where you can use 24mm or a slide wrench to force the sprokets backward and keep the TDC mark in straight level. Now your hands are free, and you can do it alone easily. P.S. Before I took the original timing belt off, I marked two points shown from the photo, there are 12 teeth in between. I replaced the new timing belt not only based on the TDC mark, but also paid attention to the count of the teeth as the reference, everything match, and the engine runs perfectly. Good luck!
  5. Thanks for your instruction. Is it also apply to the parking brake with the drum and shoe?
  6. I found this post by google, although it posted long time ago, but could you please tell me where the bolt located? Is it inside the brake drum or hand brake lever? Thanks in advance!
  7. I'm going to do that too, both my fuel and brake tube system can not hold long, the corrosion situation is from bad to worse.
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