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Everything posted by NickR

  1. NickR

    code p1195 egr boost sensor circuit

    I don't know anything about that code myself, but I put it in the search box and a lot of helpful threads came up. So I suggest you start with those. (My guess is you need to clean out the ports in the intake). https://mazda626.net/search/?q=p1195
  2. neddy: it's not a "trunk key" you need (there isn't one). You need a "Master key" (one that works everything, including the trunk). What you are using now (if my guess is right) is the "valet key", which works the doors and ignition but not the trunk. (It's so you can leave your key with the hotel valet, to park your car, while your luggage is locked safely in the trunk.) That second lever is for opening the trunk. But if the trunk latch has been locked inside (by the previous owner), you can't use that lever and wire to open the trunk. That's the whole point of having a valet key system. You can only open the trunk with the master key.
  3. Just a guess, but maybe the key you are using is the "valet key", that works the doors and ignition, but not the trunk or glove box. Go to the Mazda dealer, show them proof of ownership and the VIN, and they can cut you a new key for a few dollars. (And I think a quarter turn to the right is correct for opening the trunk. Not sure though, because I don't have my 626 any more.) I think my guess might be right. Check this thread:
  4. A quick internet search for "replace seat belts" shows lots of aftermarket "universal" seat belts for sale. So my guess is that it won't be hard to find something from another car (maybe Ford or Mazda, around the same year) that would fit OK. Making sure it's roughly the same length seems to be the only thing to watch for. And if the tongue is different, you would also have to swap the thing the tongue connects into, which might mean the seat belt warning light doesn't work (if you have those). But I don't know this for sure. This is for the MX6, but might be useful: https://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-general/233934-seat-belt-no-longer-has-much-tension.html
  5. NickR

    No crank, no start.

    Definitely not the fuel pump, because the fuel pump has nothing to do with the engine cranking. You say you turn the key and sometimes (when it won't crank) the "interior" lights don't come on? You mean the lights on the dashboard don't come on? That sounds like it might be the security system, or the ignition switch, or some sort of fault in the wiring, like a bad ground.
  6. NickR

    NO Start, Replaced Coil . Now What?

    On further checking, I think I was wrong about the 12 volts. Hmmm. I sold my 2002 626 some years back, so I can't remember exactly what crank position sensors it has. But I think there's one down by the crank pulley. For the 1993 to 1998 cars, there should be resistance of between 520 and 580 ohms between the 2 wires going to that crank position sensor. I don't know if it's the same for the 1998-2002 cars, but it might be worth checking the resistance with your multimeter. Then I think there's a second one on the rear cam shaft.
  7. NickR

    NO Start, Replaced Coil . Now What?

    Those codes are all O2 sensor codes? I don't think they would help explain a no spark problem. Timing belt broken? As a quick first check, remove the oil filler cap, look inside and check to see if the cam gear turns while a friend tries to start the car. (When did you last change the timing belt and tensioner?) When it cranks, does it sound different from normal, like the engine spinning more quickly? As far as I know, there isn't supposed to be voltage going to the crank position sensor. It's the crank potion sensor itself that sends a small electrical pulse to the ECU. But since you don't have a code for the crank position sensor, my guess would be that it's not the problem.
  8. This is the Mazda 626 forum. They stopped making the 626 in 2002. You have a Mazda 6, which is a different car. I think you should try asking your question in one of the Mazda 6 forums, like the one here: https://forum.mazda6club.com/ Good luck!
  9. NickR

    3 Radiator / Cooling system Caps ?!

    #1: this is where you normally top up the coolant if it's a little bit low in the plastic reservoir bottle. But if the coolant level gets very low, so there's air in the cooling system (this will only happen if there's a big leak, or you drained the coolant for some reason, or you neglected to check coolant level in the plastic reservoir bottle #1 for a very long time), let the engine cool down, then open caps #2 and #3, pour new coolant into #3 until it's full, then add a little to #2 until it's full too. #3 exists because it would take forever to refill the coolant using #2 only. And #2 exists because you would get an air bubble at the top of the radiator if you refilled the coolant using #3 only.
  10. NickR

    Power window switch

    I think you have to remove the interior door plate. But it's not hard, and small parts are unlikely to come adrift, and even if they do, you just put them back again. The door handle in particular is not a problem; it all hangs together when you remove that screw to remove the door plate. Because there's another screw inside, that holds the door handle in position on the main part of the door.
  11. NickR

    Crazy leak, timing cover

    1. Dunno. Possibly some previous owner who changed the timing belt and forced the timing cover back on? 2. If I remember correctly, you don't need to remove the motor mount or anything. [Edit: You need to remove the dipstick holder; I can't remember if you have to remove the crank pulley and accessory belts.] It's just very awkward to get the timing cover into place in such a cramped location. 3. The timing cover should never (normally) need replacing. Get one from a junkyard. 4. No. The timing cover's job is to keep dirt off the timing belt; not to keep oil in. Something else is causing the leak. My guess is that the camshaft cap has come loose. It's about the size of a US quarter, very near the oil dipstick, just underneath that thing for lifting the engine. Common problem. Let's hope my guess is right, because that's an easy fix. 5. Rags. But the worry is that oil has gotten onto the timing belt, which will shorten its life.
  12. NickR

    Inertia switch

    I don't think it does. (I don't remember ever hearing about any 626 having a fuel inertia switch.) Ford uses them, to shut off the fuel pump in an accident, but Mazda shuts off the fuel pump when the engine stops turning.
  13. I haven't heard that people need to swap the wiring harness when swapping another of the K-series engines. And the fact that the car had been running fine after the engine swap also suggests it does not need a wiring harness swap. But I don't really know. Have you checked compression? The timing belt may have slipped.
  14. NickR

    Evap System "Good Enough"

    This vaccum hose diagram (it's for the V6) should help you find the purge control solenoid: https://mazda626.net/topic/48-v-6-vacuum-hose-diagram/
  15. NickR

    Evap System "Good Enough"

    Welcome to the board! The "sludge" behind the fuel filler door puzzles me. I would be tempted to remove the plastic cover (2 phillips screws) that goes around the fuel filler neck, just to see what I could see. (Though your 96 may or may not be the same as my 94). Generic fuel line hoses would presumably be fine as a replacement. (But I don't really have any knowledge on this particular issue.)
  16. NickR

    Overheating 98 V6 ES

    I think it's unlikely to be the heater core, since this is not intended to be used to keep the engine cool. Thermostat is a cheap and easy thing to replace. The other two suspects are: blocked radiator (I mean internally blocked, though you could easily check whether it's externally blocked with bugs etc); corroded water pump fins (so it isn't pumping coolant). But those are more costly to replace. I have forgotten the name of those infra red thermometer gun things that you can point at parts of the cooling system to read the temperature. But it might be worthwhile buying/renting/borrowing one to try to help diagnose the problem. If it shows cooler spots in part of the radiator, for example, that helps diagnose a blocked radiator.
  17. NickR

    Alternator Replacement

    There are step by step instructions in my August 9th 2010 post above. Which of those steps do you need explained?
  18. NickR

    Replacing headlight socket on 2002 Mazda 626?

    Same happened to my 2000 626. Just buy a new socket. An auto parts store would have it, though might have to order it in.
  19. NickR

    Coil Pack Diagnostics

    Welcome to the board! What year is your car?
  20. Weird. One final thought: the bolts that hold the valve cover down have rubber grommets on them. Those aren't missing or badly damaged are they? Because they can leak too. Maybe put a drop of RTV around each one. Hoping all goes well with it this time!
  21. Just on the off-chance, check that there is no leak from the oil cooler O-ring (just above the oil filter), while you have the radiator removed. But I'm still surprised that so much oil would leak from the valve cover gaskets, and still have my suspicions about the oil pressure sensor, so it's good you are replacing that too.
  22. NickR

    Mystery Persistent Misfire

    A common problem is the spark plug wires go bad at higher mileage, giving a misfire at low rpm, even if they look good. I would replace them, with NGK blues.
  23. It's not a common problem on these engines. But 1/8" isn't so bad. I would just change the oil more frequently for a bit, which is the safest solution. The detergents in the oil will clean it off.
  24. The oil pressure sensor often leaks, but only when the engine is running, so you might not see it. Look at the front of the engine, about halfway between the oil filter and the alternator. It looks a bit like a spark plug, with one wire coming out of a spade connector.