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NickR last won the day on January 28 2019

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  1. It could be the IAC, like mazda6sic6 says. But it could also be a vacuum leak somewhere. And it's a bit more likely that you accidentally damaged one of the vacuum hoses when changing the water pump??
  2. The oil pressure sensor is at the front of the engine, down there between the alternator and oil filter. So it's not what's causing your current leak (though it might be a good idea to replace it anyway). But I suppose it's possible that when you are driving the wind is pushing the oil to the back of the engine?? And the OPS is a known weak spot on our cars.
  3. Is there fluid coming out the overflow tank even when the temperature gauge is on normal? If so, that plus the bubbles does suggest a head gasket leak. I can't think of anything else.
  4. Aftermarket stereo wiring is notorious for creating problems. The first thing I would try is disconnecting it completely. Another likely cause of fluctuating idle is a vacuum leak in the air intake.
  5. I don't know anything about that code myself, but I put it in the search box and a lot of helpful threads came up. So I suggest you start with those. (My guess is you need to clean out the ports in the intake). https://mazda626.net/search/?q=p1195
  6. neddy: it's not a "trunk key" you need (there isn't one). You need a "Master key" (one that works everything, including the trunk). What you are using now (if my guess is right) is the "valet key", which works the doors and ignition but not the trunk. (It's so you can leave your key with the hotel valet, to park your car, while your luggage is locked safely in the trunk.) That second lever is for opening the trunk. But if the trunk latch has been locked inside (by the previous owner), you can't use that lever and wire to open the trunk. That's the whole point of having a valet key system. You can only open the trunk with the master key.
  7. Just a guess, but maybe the key you are using is the "valet key", that works the doors and ignition, but not the trunk or glove box. Go to the Mazda dealer, show them proof of ownership and the VIN, and they can cut you a new key for a few dollars. (And I think a quarter turn to the right is correct for opening the trunk. Not sure though, because I don't have my 626 any more.) I think my guess might be right. Check this thread:
  8. A quick internet search for "replace seat belts" shows lots of aftermarket "universal" seat belts for sale. So my guess is that it won't be hard to find something from another car (maybe Ford or Mazda, around the same year) that would fit OK. Making sure it's roughly the same length seems to be the only thing to watch for. And if the tongue is different, you would also have to swap the thing the tongue connects into, which might mean the seat belt warning light doesn't work (if you have those). But I don't know this for sure. This is for the MX6, but might be useful: https://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-general/233934-seat-belt-no-longer-has-much-tension.html
  9. Definitely not the fuel pump, because the fuel pump has nothing to do with the engine cranking. You say you turn the key and sometimes (when it won't crank) the "interior" lights don't come on? You mean the lights on the dashboard don't come on? That sounds like it might be the security system, or the ignition switch, or some sort of fault in the wiring, like a bad ground.
  10. On further checking, I think I was wrong about the 12 volts. Hmmm. I sold my 2002 626 some years back, so I can't remember exactly what crank position sensors it has. But I think there's one down by the crank pulley. For the 1993 to 1998 cars, there should be resistance of between 520 and 580 ohms between the 2 wires going to that crank position sensor. I don't know if it's the same for the 1998-2002 cars, but it might be worth checking the resistance with your multimeter. Then I think there's a second one on the rear cam shaft.
  11. Those codes are all O2 sensor codes? I don't think they would help explain a no spark problem. Timing belt broken? As a quick first check, remove the oil filler cap, look inside and check to see if the cam gear turns while a friend tries to start the car. (When did you last change the timing belt and tensioner?) When it cranks, does it sound different from normal, like the engine spinning more quickly? As far as I know, there isn't supposed to be voltage going to the crank position sensor. It's the crank potion sensor itself that sends a small electrical pulse to the ECU. But since you don't have a code for the crank position sensor, my guess would be that it's not the problem.
  12. This is the Mazda 626 forum. They stopped making the 626 in 2002. You have a Mazda 6, which is a different car. I think you should try asking your question in one of the Mazda 6 forums, like the one here: https://forum.mazda6club.com/ Good luck!
  13. #1: this is where you normally top up the coolant if it's a little bit low in the plastic reservoir bottle. But if the coolant level gets very low, so there's air in the cooling system (this will only happen if there's a big leak, or you drained the coolant for some reason, or you neglected to check coolant level in the plastic reservoir bottle #1 for a very long time), let the engine cool down, then open caps #2 and #3, pour new coolant into #3 until it's full, then add a little to #2 until it's full too. #3 exists because it would take forever to refill the coolant using #2 only. And #2 exists because you would get an air bubble at the top of the radiator if you refilled the coolant using #3 only.
  14. I think you have to remove the interior door plate. But it's not hard, and small parts are unlikely to come adrift, and even if they do, you just put them back again. The door handle in particular is not a problem; it all hangs together when you remove that screw to remove the door plate. Because there's another screw inside, that holds the door handle in position on the main part of the door.
  15. 1. Dunno. Possibly some previous owner who changed the timing belt and forced the timing cover back on? 2. If I remember correctly, you don't need to remove the motor mount or anything. [Edit: You need to remove the dipstick holder; I can't remember if you have to remove the crank pulley and accessory belts.] It's just very awkward to get the timing cover into place in such a cramped location. 3. The timing cover should never (normally) need replacing. Get one from a junkyard. 4. No. The timing cover's job is to keep dirt off the timing belt; not to keep oil in. Something else is causing the leak. My guess is that the camshaft cap has come loose. It's about the size of a US quarter, very near the oil dipstick, just underneath that thing for lifting the engine. Common problem. Let's hope my guess is right, because that's an easy fix. 5. Rags. But the worry is that oil has gotten onto the timing belt, which will shorten its life.
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