NickR

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About NickR

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  • Car
    1994 MX6 KFZE V6 mtx

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  • Location
    West Quebec, Canada
  1. Herman: those codes are: 23, 24, and 3. (My guess is that you started the video after the codes has started, because it normally flashes them in order, so it should be 3, 23, 24, then repeat.) The 23 and 24 say you need to replace your rear Oxygen sensor (it's on the exhaust downpipe at the rear of the engine near the firewall). That's not uncommon. The 3 suggests a problem with the cam position sensor in the distributor. But if your car is running fine that might be an old code, that got stored in memory. I would delete the codes (disconnect the battery, press the brake pedal for 10 seconds, reconnect battery) then go for a drive and see if that code comes back.
  2. I thought you were supposed to have the engine off when you bleed the brakes? That's how I've always done it, but I don't know for sure.
  3. Welcome to the board! My guess (only a guess) is that it is related to your car having sat for 6 months, with old gas in the tank. It gums things up (unless you add gas stabiliser to the tank before letting it sit). It may just fix itself with time, now you have a tank of new gas. If not, putting some fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank might help (again just a guess).
  4. Clutch throwout bearing?
  5. Haven't heard of any (but haven't looked). Maybe look in the Performance and Tuning section of this board?
  6. There is one thin "trigger" wire that goes to a spade connector on the starter motor. Make sure the gearshift is in Park, remove the thin wire, then connect that spade terminal on the starter to any positive 12v source (the easiest is the thick terminal on the starter motor, using a screwdriver). The starter should then crank. If not, it's either the starter or a direct connection between starter and battery. Next step, disconnect that trigger wire, and use a voltmeter to test for 12volts when a friend turns the ignition key to start. That should help narrow it down. Testing relays: when you use the battery to apply 12 volts across 2 of the terminals (the 2 between which there is low resistance) the resistance across the other 2 terminals should drop from infinite to zero. I think that's right.
  7. If the door switch operates the window, the motor is presumably good. Now, you would think that if the master switch won't operate the window, it must be the master switch that is faulty. But in fact that's not the case (as I know from experience), and I would suspect the door switch. But the only way to find out is to remove the door panel, and test for current coming from the master switch.
  8. I'm pretty sure there's another cam plug near the distributor. It makes sense there would be, and there seems to be one on mine (but I'm looking at my 94 MX6 V6, having sold my 2000 626 V6 a couple of years back). Somewhere (maybe here or on MX6.com) there's a write up on how to change the O-ring on the oil cooler. I did it once, on my MX6. The O-ring off an oil filter is the same size, so you don't need a special part. From memory: remove oil filter, then use long socket (or maybe long vice grips) to remove nut on the threaded tube the oil filter was screwed onto. Then pull oil cooler down (it's a cylinder, about 2 inches high, with 2 coolant hoses coming out of it). Then pick out old O-ring, and replace with new one. The only tricky part is that you may have to remove one or both coolant hoses in order to get the oil cooler off. I can't remember, but think I just removed one. Or, maybe, your oil filter O-ring is just bad, or the old O-ring didn't come off when the filter was changed, so there's 2 on there (it happens). Check that first.
  9. From what I've read, yes, oil can kill an alternator. You don't have to remove the timing cover to remove that rear cam plug. Just unscrew a couple of 10mm bolts on the timing cover to pull it back a bit is enough, if I remember correctly. Other typical sources for oil leaks: The valve cover gaskets (though I think that is less likely on later model cars, like yours) The oil cooler O-ring. This is just above the oil filter. It's a PITA to get at. The oil pressure sending unit, near the oil filter and the the Alternator (sort of between them).
  10. That's a VRIS actuator. Variable Resonance Induction System.
  11. My guess: the connection to the crank sensor (the connection just behind the dipstick tube) is dirty. It's a common problem. Have you checked for codes?
  12. I don't know. Check motor mounts, but might also be a balljoint, or CV joint? Rear mount normally wears first, I think.
  13. Welcome to the board! It is perfectly possible to pull the codes on a 1994; you don't even need a code reader, just a paper clip, and follow the instructions here:
  14. Looks to be a very nice car! Change both plugs and wires (most people have found that NGK plugs and wires work best). I know little about auto transmissions, but it's the auto tranny on the 4 cylinder that has the bad reputation. I would just change the fluid.