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NickR last won the day on December 19 2016

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About NickR

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    Senior Member

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    1994 MX6 KFZE V6 mtx

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    West Quebec, Canada

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  1. NickR

    3 Radiator / Cooling system Caps ?!

    #1: this is where you normally top up the coolant if it's a little bit low in the plastic reservoir bottle. But if the coolant level gets very low, so there's air in the cooling system (this will only happen if there's a big leak, or you drained the coolant for some reason, or you neglected to check coolant level in the plastic reservoir bottle #1 for a very long time), let the engine cool down, then open caps #2 and #3, pour new coolant into #3 until it's full, then add a little to #2 until it's full too. #3 exists because it would take forever to refill the coolant using #2 only. And #2 exists because you would get an air bubble at the top of the radiator if you refilled the coolant using #3 only.
  2. NickR

    Power window switch

    I think you have to remove the interior door plate. But it's not hard, and small parts are unlikely to come adrift, and even if they do, you just put them back again. The door handle in particular is not a problem; it all hangs together when you remove that screw to remove the door plate. Because there's another screw inside, that holds the door handle in position on the main part of the door.
  3. NickR

    Crazy leak, timing cover

    1. Dunno. Possibly some previous owner who changed the timing belt and forced the timing cover back on? 2. If I remember correctly, you don't need to remove the motor mount or anything. [Edit: You need to remove the dipstick holder; I can't remember if you have to remove the crank pulley and accessory belts.] It's just very awkward to get the timing cover into place in such a cramped location. 3. The timing cover should never (normally) need replacing. Get one from a junkyard. 4. No. The timing cover's job is to keep dirt off the timing belt; not to keep oil in. Something else is causing the leak. My guess is that the camshaft cap has come loose. It's about the size of a US quarter, very near the oil dipstick, just underneath that thing for lifting the engine. Common problem. Let's hope my guess is right, because that's an easy fix. 5. Rags. But the worry is that oil has gotten onto the timing belt, which will shorten its life.
  4. NickR

    Inertia switch

    I don't think it does. (I don't remember ever hearing about any 626 having a fuel inertia switch.) Ford uses them, to shut off the fuel pump in an accident, but Mazda shuts off the fuel pump when the engine stops turning.
  5. I haven't heard that people need to swap the wiring harness when swapping another of the K-series engines. And the fact that the car had been running fine after the engine swap also suggests it does not need a wiring harness swap. But I don't really know. Have you checked compression? The timing belt may have slipped.
  6. NickR

    Evap System "Good Enough"

    This vaccum hose diagram (it's for the V6) should help you find the purge control solenoid: https://mazda626.net/topic/48-v-6-vacuum-hose-diagram/
  7. NickR

    Evap System "Good Enough"

    Welcome to the board! The "sludge" behind the fuel filler door puzzles me. I would be tempted to remove the plastic cover (2 phillips screws) that goes around the fuel filler neck, just to see what I could see. (Though your 96 may or may not be the same as my 94). Generic fuel line hoses would presumably be fine as a replacement. (But I don't really have any knowledge on this particular issue.)
  8. NickR

    Overheating 98 V6 ES

    I think it's unlikely to be the heater core, since this is not intended to be used to keep the engine cool. Thermostat is a cheap and easy thing to replace. The other two suspects are: blocked radiator (I mean internally blocked, though you could easily check whether it's externally blocked with bugs etc); corroded water pump fins (so it isn't pumping coolant). But those are more costly to replace. I have forgotten the name of those infra red thermometer gun things that you can point at parts of the cooling system to read the temperature. But it might be worthwhile buying/renting/borrowing one to try to help diagnose the problem. If it shows cooler spots in part of the radiator, for example, that helps diagnose a blocked radiator.
  9. NickR

    Alternator Replacement

    There are step by step instructions in my August 9th 2010 post above. Which of those steps do you need explained?
  10. NickR

    Replacing headlight socket on 2002 Mazda 626?

    Same happened to my 2000 626. Just buy a new socket. An auto parts store would have it, though might have to order it in.
  11. NickR

    Coil Pack Diagnostics

    Welcome to the board! What year is your car?
  12. Weird. One final thought: the bolts that hold the valve cover down have rubber grommets on them. Those aren't missing or badly damaged are they? Because they can leak too. Maybe put a drop of RTV around each one. Hoping all goes well with it this time!
  13. Just on the off-chance, check that there is no leak from the oil cooler O-ring (just above the oil filter), while you have the radiator removed. But I'm still surprised that so much oil would leak from the valve cover gaskets, and still have my suspicions about the oil pressure sensor, so it's good you are replacing that too.
  14. NickR

    Mystery Persistent Misfire

    A common problem is the spark plug wires go bad at higher mileage, giving a misfire at low rpm, even if they look good. I would replace them, with NGK blues.