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El Scorcho

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Everything posted by El Scorcho

  1. Boost controller to dial in an extra lb or 2 of boost AND/OR a bigger/less restrictive intercooler.
  2. Kind of a necro thread, but it's still on the first page... =) If anyone is interested to know, that is a Reed Valve box on the strut tower, which pulls air into the exhaust for the 2nd catalytic converter using the pulse of the exhaust to draw vacuum thru the Reed Valve, which stops back flow. It actually connects to the exhaust just behind the 1st catalytic converter, before the flex joint in the exhaust. This was used on turbo cars in place of an air pump for emissions regs. It can be deleted easily by connecting one hose across the two pipes (I used the existing hoses and joined them with a small piece of pipe), or more difficult is to remove the pipes and block the port on the exhaust pipe. It's not a power drain like an air pump, and as it will probably affect the 2nd cat's performance, it's not really recommendable to remove. But it serves no purpose at all if you have removed the 2nd cat. Typically, their mountings would get brittle with age and break, causing a racket of knocking and buzzing. If you just remove the box, exhaust comes out of the pipes.
  3. AAS springs tended to sag as they age and yours may have lost some free-length. My black GC was converted to standard struts with all AAS springs, and my blue GC was done with AAS springs in front and non-AAS springs in the rear. There was no appreciable difference in ride height or handling. Since then, Blue is riding on '97 front struts which raised the front end about 3/4" over stock GC ride height.
  4. As I understand it, the RF and FE blocks are identical. The only difference is the crank is drilled for 8 bolts on an RF flywheel as opposed to 6 for an FE. The gearing may be different, and possibly totally unsuited to a gasoline engine, you would want to make sure of the ratios first. The following thread has lots of interchange information, even though the first post was truncated at some point and some of it is missing now. Also search through chief_tool's posts, he owned a diesel 626 for a while and talked about it lots when he was active here.
  5. Have you checked rockauto? More importantly, has the MAF been certainly diagnosed as the problem (either by yourself or a garage technician)? Rough idle can be caused by many factors, and more often than not, it is a maintenance related item like a clogged air filter, worn spark plugs or faulty ignition components, dirty intake, or possibly old or worn timing components. Sometimes, a fuel system issue can cause a rough idle. In most cases when I have experienced with a MAF failure, the vehicle will idle fine but does not drive well. I'm guessing your car is a GC series? If so, the MAF is a door-type Bosch AFM (air flow meter), which fails most often due to a weak return spring or internal corrosion. Several vehicles in this age range use a similar system, but I am uncertain if any of them interchange as they can be designed for different reference voltages. If you are savvy with a Multi-meter, you should be able to determine if the AFM is putting out correct signals. If any of this is over your head, I would highly recommend a diagnosis from a licensed and trusted technician.
  6. Sounds like you are describing a misfire under acceleration/overtaking. There could be an intake leak pulling extra air in. It could be a timing issue, especially if the belt is old or worn. It could be an ignition issue with the spark plugs, high tension wires, distributor if they are old or worn, or the timing advance mechanism if it is faulty. I have seen plugged catalytic converters cause problems like this, but not on a 626 before, and usually catalytic problems present with a distinct smell. Surging idle when coasting is an odd one. Could also be related to an intake leak. Could be the idle air screw is too far open, but I don't know this engine well enough to know if it has an idle screw adjustment or not. Do you notice this problem when the vehicle is cold or hot? First start of the day only? Or only after having driven the car some significant distance? Throttle position sensor off-calibration could also cause an issue like this, but it would probably be all the time in neutral or park, and not just when coasting.
  7. Sweet ride, the red accents are sexy on black.
  8. https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/calgary/gt-mazda-626-turbo-5-speed/1409650598 Damn sweet ride, somebody should snap this up
  9. BUMP - Edited list for what remains. Traded an instrument cluster for a Rear Window Louvre!! Thanks CUB075! (How do I give + rep again???)
  10. Performance probe is gone. Was angling on one of these myself when the site was shut down last year, and they were getting down to the last few left... Dunno if any of them migrated to Probetalk? Haven't had time to look into it again. If you find'em, let us know where!
  11. I had an intermittent-eventually-completely no start with mine, it was a relay in the vicinity of the battery, it had become detached from it's mount and fallen inside the body cavity behind. The dust cover collected moisture and rotted the relay. However, Mine is a manual transmission and it was not getting an injector pulse... If it's an automatic, did you replace or adjust the selector cable during any of this? If the cable is stretched, worn, or out of adjustment, the gear selector may not be putting the transmission all the way into park, the (probably ok) neutral switch was doing it's job and preventing it from starting because the car didn't "see" the transmission in park... If the car will reliably start when you hold the key on start and then select neutral, you are tripping the neutral switch *as* it moves through what the car has defined as "neutral", and allowing the starter to engage.
  12. The springs differ from AAS to standard suspension, but the bottom seat is similar if not the same, keep the top seat from the AAS, and use a mount for non AAS. This will work for the front. Rear springs are similar or the same for aas or standard, as are mounts. I might have some front mounts around, but they do not have bearings. Alternatively, I am using GE struts and lowing springs with GC top mounts, these will be a very tight fit at the knuckle with washers inside the strut-to-knuckle brackets, but they will go. Haven't had it out on the road yet with this set up. Before that I was using factory GE struts with the GE mounts, which I had to slot the mounting holes a bit to fit at the top.
  13. Two door straight body no rust.... if only I was closer... would love to get it. Does it run and drive? Could it go for a 3000 mile trip to Canada? If you part it I need several things!!!
  14. I have dealt with an intermittent no-start like that which eventually became a permanent no-start. The culprit for me was a couple of relays behind the driver's headlight, tucked into the frame rail. They had come off their mounting, and fallen in such a way that the dust caps became moisture collectors. It would start and run, in fact I drove it 400km home when I bought it. Eventually it would just crank and crank and cough occasionally when a drip of fuel made it out of the injectors.
  15. They are mechanical lifters, I don't recall the spec atm, I can check it. These are actually set hot. I burnt an injector once setting them cold.
  16. If it turns out to be fit only for parts I would be very interested in some things. If it turns out roadworthy Great Find! Best of luck to you, and keep us posted!
  17. Stick with a set of lowering springs if you plan to drive the car regularly. Coil-overs are a faff to install, a faff to adjust, and they will kill your ride quality if you go with a generic set. If you get them installed well, they will still kill any O.E. Style strut you put them on. I had attempted this route at one point, but got fed up with trying to find adapters and helper springs to take up the slack at full extension. For a good set, you have to properly select the spring rate and pay a premium for them, Eibach is going to be one of the best options as they make (made?) a set specifically for GD and GE cars. Hyperco was making at one point a racing grade carbon bellows spring system, and also have an extensive lineup of coil-over options.
  18. Yes, mine is an FE/T manual. I love it. Fast out of the gate and potential for more. They are super rare in Canada, considering I have only ever seen 3 examples and I owned two of them at one point. That ebay ad looks like it is in great nick, I would kill for that louver. If you have any chance of getting it, you should. Especially if it is actually a one owner car with a clean accident history...
  19. DO NOT remove the intermediate shaft with the left shaft also removed. The differential will fall apart inside the housing and will require disassembly to correct. It requires either the left shaft or the intermediate shaft to be inserted to keep everything aligned inside the carrier. Do not start the vehicle with EITHER shaft out. It is extremely rare for it to be a problem; there is no reason to remove the intermediate shaft unless you are certain it is making noise. As long as the bearing seals look to be in decent shape, and the bearing isn't dry or loose or falling apart, I would recommend leaving it alone. It would be the last bearing I would suspect of going in ANY front drive car I've encountered using one. =)
  20. The intermediate shaft assy comes in separate pieces, the bearing p/n is 99606-82063 and the shaft p/n is G001-25-710A. The bracket which contains the bearing is p/n G001-25-740. These appear to be the same #s across all GC models.
  21. I need the right side piece, but I would gladly take a pair if anyone comes across them. I offer $30 for the right or $50 for a pair, plus shipping. If you find them at a scrap yard, find out how much they will cost you and we can talk.
  22. Factory wastegate is 7psi so as not to require an intercooler. Fuel Cut happens around 10psi. If you modify or unplug the wastegate, you will need to defeat or fool the boost sensor if you want more then 10psi. Add an intercooler for anything higher than stock boost. You may also want to look into an RHB5 O2 housing from CORRECTION: http://www.performanceprobe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46534 , a member there fabricates and sells them.
  23. If you are looking to do this piece by piece, start with control arms and their bushings, they come as a complete unit with ball joints. Next would be any tie rod ends. Pierce the inner tie rod boots to check for power steering fluid leaks. Unfortunately, a leak here means replacing the entire steering rack. As long as the struts, mounts, and strut bearings are good, move on to the brakes and wheel bearings. If the CV joints are noisy or clicking in turns, and especially if the boot is open, replace the shafts as complete units for best results. If they aren't noisy and the boots are good, re-use them. Once those are done and everything is tight, you can have a wheel alignment done, which is absolutely necessary. Finally, sway bar bushings and links, which don't have any affect on alignment, can be replaced as needed. That's your front end, top to bottom.
  24. Anything is possible with deep pockets and imagination. Not sure if Mazda makes anything FWD with a 6spd. Maybe a Speed6 or Speed3 swap minus the rear driveline? KL is your best, most commonly available option, you'll just have to build it up to be as "snappy" as you want it to be. You could also swap in the Ford V6 offered in the later Probe GTs, but it's bad enough having their badge on the hood, let a lone under it... =) Unless you plan on going completely off the deep end custom, you're probably better to stick with a 5spd. FWD gets really torque-steery over 250hp, and back-yard engineering rarely does anything to make it better. Tried MX6.com and ProbeTalk? how about the PMX626 search? (Psst, You might get more response if this was posted in the correct forum for your generation of car)
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