Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

El Scorcho

Members
  • Content Count

    196
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

El Scorcho last won the day on December 22 2014

El Scorcho had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

7 Neutral

About El Scorcho

  • Rank
    Member

Previous Fields

  • Car
    Array

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    Array
  • ICQ
    Array

Profile Information

  • Location
    Array

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Right on thanks for keeping it up and running
  2. Is it just me? I have had a hell of a time bringing up the forum over the past few months, seems like 3/4 of the time it's down... Rockauto hasn't posted a new discount code recently... What's going on?
  3. AFAIK, the Miata 1.8 is a different bellhousing from the F2. The reason you can put an F2 in a Miata is the bellhousing from a B-22/2000 fits to the Miata Tranmission. You'd be better off sticking to F2/F2T, Or FE3 DOHC. The 1.8 will be an all custom project.
  4. There will be a ground wire on the harness, or you can ground it to chassis. The wires are all blue with a colored stripe for the radio harnesses, You have indeed hooked your ground to the illumination circuit and when you turn the lights on, you are taking away the radio's path to ground. The antenna is a big black coaxial wire with a round metal tip. it plugs into a round socket on the back of your radio, or the socket may be attached to a wire coming off the back of your radio. It is possible, but not likely you need an adapter for it. If you have a power antenna, you will also need to use the remote/amp power signal wire and some sort of relay to trigger it to extend and retract, as these cars typically get terrible reception with the mast retracted. Otherwise, you can extend the antenna by hot wiring the circuit and leave it unplugged, or break the retractor cable so it can be extended and collapsed by hand.
  5. Boost controller to dial in an extra lb or 2 of boost AND/OR a bigger/less restrictive intercooler.
  6. Kind of a necro thread, but it's still on the first page... =) If anyone is interested to know, that is a Reed Valve box on the strut tower, which pulls air into the exhaust for the 2nd catalytic converter using the pulse of the exhaust to draw vacuum thru the Reed Valve, which stops back flow. It actually connects to the exhaust just behind the 1st catalytic converter, before the flex joint in the exhaust. This was used on turbo cars in place of an air pump for emissions regs. It can be deleted easily by connecting one hose across the two pipes (I used the existing hoses and joined them with a small piece of pipe), or more difficult is to remove the pipes and block the port on the exhaust pipe. It's not a power drain like an air pump, and as it will probably affect the 2nd cat's performance, it's not really recommendable to remove. But it serves no purpose at all if you have removed the 2nd cat. Typically, their mountings would get brittle with age and break, causing a racket of knocking and buzzing. If you just remove the box, exhaust comes out of the pipes.
  7. AAS springs tended to sag as they age and yours may have lost some free-length. My black GC was converted to standard struts with all AAS springs, and my blue GC was done with AAS springs in front and non-AAS springs in the rear. There was no appreciable difference in ride height or handling. Since then, Blue is riding on '97 front struts which raised the front end about 3/4" over stock GC ride height.
  8. As I understand it, the RF and FE blocks are identical. The only difference is the crank is drilled for 8 bolts on an RF flywheel as opposed to 6 for an FE. The gearing may be different, and possibly totally unsuited to a gasoline engine, you would want to make sure of the ratios first. The following thread has lots of interchange information, even though the first post was truncated at some point and some of it is missing now. Also search through chief_tool's posts, he owned a diesel 626 for a while and talked about it lots when he was active here.
  9. Have you checked rockauto? More importantly, has the MAF been certainly diagnosed as the problem (either by yourself or a garage technician)? Rough idle can be caused by many factors, and more often than not, it is a maintenance related item like a clogged air filter, worn spark plugs or faulty ignition components, dirty intake, or possibly old or worn timing components. Sometimes, a fuel system issue can cause a rough idle. In most cases when I have experienced with a MAF failure, the vehicle will idle fine but does not drive well. I'm guessing your car is a GC series? If so, the MAF is a door-type Bosch AFM (air flow meter), which fails most often due to a weak return spring or internal corrosion. Several vehicles in this age range use a similar system, but I am uncertain if any of them interchange as they can be designed for different reference voltages. If you are savvy with a Multi-meter, you should be able to determine if the AFM is putting out correct signals. If any of this is over your head, I would highly recommend a diagnosis from a licensed and trusted technician.
  10. Sounds like you are describing a misfire under acceleration/overtaking. There could be an intake leak pulling extra air in. It could be a timing issue, especially if the belt is old or worn. It could be an ignition issue with the spark plugs, high tension wires, distributor if they are old or worn, or the timing advance mechanism if it is faulty. I have seen plugged catalytic converters cause problems like this, but not on a 626 before, and usually catalytic problems present with a distinct smell. Surging idle when coasting is an odd one. Could also be related to an intake leak. Could be the idle air screw is too far open, but I don't know this engine well enough to know if it has an idle screw adjustment or not. Do you notice this problem when the vehicle is cold or hot? First start of the day only? Or only after having driven the car some significant distance? Throttle position sensor off-calibration could also cause an issue like this, but it would probably be all the time in neutral or park, and not just when coasting.
  11. Sweet ride, the red accents are sexy on black.
  12. https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/calgary/gt-mazda-626-turbo-5-speed/1409650598 Damn sweet ride, somebody should snap this up
  13. BUMP - Edited list for what remains. Traded an instrument cluster for a Rear Window Louvre!! Thanks CUB075! (How do I give + rep again???)
  14. Performance probe is gone. Was angling on one of these myself when the site was shut down last year, and they were getting down to the last few left... Dunno if any of them migrated to Probetalk? Haven't had time to look into it again. If you find'em, let us know where!
  15. I had an intermittent-eventually-completely no start with mine, it was a relay in the vicinity of the battery, it had become detached from it's mount and fallen inside the body cavity behind. The dust cover collected moisture and rotted the relay. However, Mine is a manual transmission and it was not getting an injector pulse... If it's an automatic, did you replace or adjust the selector cable during any of this? If the cable is stretched, worn, or out of adjustment, the gear selector may not be putting the transmission all the way into park, the (probably ok) neutral switch was doing it's job and preventing it from starting because the car didn't "see" the transmission in park... If the car will reliably start when you hold the key on start and then select neutral, you are tripping the neutral switch *as* it moves through what the car has defined as "neutral", and allowing the starter to engage.
×
×
  • Create New...