El Scorcho

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About El Scorcho

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    86 626 Turbo Coupe

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  • Location
    Prince Albert, SK
  1. Stick with a set of lowering springs if you plan to drive the car regularly. Coil-overs are a faff to install, a faff to adjust, and they will kill your ride quality if you go with a generic set. If you get them installed well, they will still kill any O.E. Style strut you put them on. I had attempted this route at one point, but got fed up with trying to find adapters and helper springs to take up the slack at full extension. For a good set, you have to properly select the spring rate and pay a premium for them, Eibach is going to be one of the best options as they make (made?) a set specifically for GD and GE cars. Hyperco was making at one point a racing grade carbon bellows spring system, and also have an extensive lineup of coil-over options.
  2. Yes, mine is an FE/T manual. I love it. Fast out of the gate and potential for more. They are super rare in Canada, considering I have only ever seen 3 examples and I owned two of them at one point. That ebay ad looks like it is in great nick, I would kill for that louver. If you have any chance of getting it, you should. Especially if it is actually a one owner car with a clean accident history...
  3. DO NOT remove the intermediate shaft with the left shaft also removed. The differential will fall apart inside the housing and will require disassembly to correct. It requires either the left shaft or the intermediate shaft to be inserted to keep everything aligned inside the carrier. Do not start the vehicle with EITHER shaft out. It is extremely rare for it to be a problem; there is no reason to remove the intermediate shaft unless you are certain it is making noise. As long as the bearing seals look to be in decent shape, and the bearing isn't dry or loose or falling apart, I would recommend leaving it alone. It would be the last bearing I would suspect of going in ANY front drive car I've encountered using one. =)
  4. The intermediate shaft assy comes in separate pieces, the bearing p/n is 99606-82063 and the shaft p/n is G001-25-710A. The bracket which contains the bearing is p/n G001-25-740. These appear to be the same #s across all GC models.
  5. I need the right side piece, but I would gladly take a pair if anyone comes across them. I offer $30 for the right or $50 for a pair, plus shipping. If you find them at a scrap yard, find out how much they will cost you and we can talk.
  6. Factory wastegate is 7psi so as not to require an intercooler. Fuel Cut happens around 10psi. If you modify or unplug the wastegate, you will need to defeat or fool the boost sensor if you want more then 10psi. Add an intercooler for anything higher than stock boost. You may also want to look into an RHB5 O2 housing from CORRECTION: http://www.performanceprobe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46534 , a member there fabricates and sells them.
  7. If you are looking to do this piece by piece, start with control arms and their bushings, they come as a complete unit with ball joints. Next would be any tie rod ends. Pierce the inner tie rod boots to check for power steering fluid leaks. Unfortunately, a leak here means replacing the entire steering rack. As long as the struts, mounts, and strut bearings are good, move on to the brakes and wheel bearings. If the CV joints are noisy or clicking in turns, and especially if the boot is open, replace the shafts as complete units for best results. If they aren't noisy and the boots are good, re-use them. Once those are done and everything is tight, you can have a wheel alignment done, which is absolutely necessary. Finally, sway bar bushings and links, which don't have any affect on alignment, can be replaced as needed. That's your front end, top to bottom.
  8. Anything is possible with deep pockets and imagination. Not sure if Mazda makes anything FWD with a 6spd. Maybe a Speed6 or Speed3 swap minus the rear driveline? KL is your best, most commonly available option, you'll just have to build it up to be as "snappy" as you want it to be. You could also swap in the Ford V6 offered in the later Probe GTs, but it's bad enough having their badge on the hood, let a lone under it... =) Unless you plan on going completely off the deep end custom, you're probably better to stick with a 5spd. FWD gets really torque-steery over 250hp, and back-yard engineering rarely does anything to make it better. Tried MX6.com and ProbeTalk? how about the PMX626 search? (Psst, You might get more response if this was posted in the correct forum for your generation of car)
  9. Last chance for any 4/5-door specific parts off this heap. She goes to the scrap yard tomorrow. I have the door cards boxed and stored. Anything else I can't use will be going.
  10. It may just be CV grease splattered on your tie rid end. To check for play, lift the tire in question under the control arm to keep the suspension compressed. Rock horizontally across the tire to check for tie rod play; rock vertically to check for bearing play; grab the front half of the tire and push in and out to check for lateral ball joint play: and finally, using a long bar under the lifted tire, check for vertical ball joint play. If a ball joint or tie rod needs done, you will need an alignment with it, and it is advisable to leave the repair to the mechanic who will be aligning it. Technicians don't like fixing DIYer mistakes... If the CVJ is open, it's best to replace it, especially if it is clicking in turns. If It *just* opened up, repack it and reboot it. The accessory belts are not fun, but by far not the worst I've seen to do. A/C adds a degree of difficulty with the extra belt, but it can be done in about an hour with hand tools
  11. All prices plus shipping from S6V 7B8 Canada. Greyhound Bus freight is unavailable to me in my province, but I can ship Greyhound from Brandon, Manitoba, to the US. Large items would be subject to a transport fee to Brandon. Doors - $50/each or $150/All four $100 for all four - bare doors with bronzed glass, all glass good, L/F door was patched at bottom rear corner. L/R door broken inner door handle. Overall 7/10. EDIT: Did I mention the power windows all work? - $250 $150 for the doors with the door cards. Door Cards - $150 $100 - All 4 door cards, overall 8/10, some minor moisture damage at bottom, not apparent from the inside Power Door Mirrors - $50 $30 - left is clear, right is blue tinted, power motors work Inside trim - $100 $50 - Inside B and C pillar plastic trim and all 4 body-side rubbers. A pillar trims available, but all the tabs broke off them. Sunroof - $200 $150 - complete assembly, w/ motor, works great Rear Hatch - $50 - complete with wiper arm and motor, glass is excellent Boot trim - $50 - inner plastic trunk/boot trim, parcel shelf, hatch opening trim. Some cracks - $50 together or $30 each Hatchback Tail lamps - $100 $50 - No Cracks, pair of amber-signal tail lamp assemblies, with light sockets + $100 if you want them sanded and either clear coated or smoked Digital Cluster - $200 $150 - All lights work, odo reads 300k-ish A/C Components - Not sure if the compressor is any good. Still had a teeny tiny little whiff of pressure in the system. The entire A/C System is still in the car, if you want a part, make me an offer that will cover my time for removing it. Body cuts - The tail, roof, pillars, and everything in front of the firewall are all in pretty good condition. $1/lb Front Corner Lamps - $50 $30/pair - clear, one has a chipped corner Front Bumper Signal Covers - $25 $10/pair - amber Set of 4 15" Phonedial rims - $250 $200 - with good all season rubber Set of 5 15" Phonedial rims - $250 $150 - no rubber Make me an offer on any other unlisted part you may be interested in. Pictures on request. I will entertain all offers and consider trades.
  12. I think that one has been posted here before...
  13. http://www.mazdatrucking.com/forum/showthread.php/851-my-F2T-swap-D-%2856k-warning%29 This is an F2T done, maybe this forum will have more info for your project. Don't give up, keep researching and trying new things, eventually it will cough and splutter and catch and run.
  14. The Circuit opening relay is under the dash of the 626, near the fuse panel. The Main Relays are in the left front frame, behind the battery in the engine bay. These are the same with or w/o turbo, at least on GC. The main relays are what I replaced the last time my 626 had a cranking no-start condition. Was the truck fuel injected or carby before? You may need to get pin-out chart for both ECMs, it is possible the engine harness will require modification to get certain signals it looks for from the body harness connections. Start with looking for anything that goes to the ECM that is common to both and make sure these circuits are complete. Then look for anything on the turbo ECM that is not represented in the truck wiring. Many auto parts stores have access to Mitchell OnDemand and should be able to print any circuit diagram, pin-out chart, or diagnostic procedure you request, or in all likelyhood, also may be able to print it to a file like a .pdf and email it.