Jump to content

chief tool

Premium Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


chief tool last won the day on May 18 2016

chief tool had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

44 Excellent

1 Follower

About chief tool

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/29/1972

Previous Fields

  • Car
    2006 GG MPS & 2007 GG MZR-CD

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sydney, Australia

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Coming along nicely I see. The fuel tank looks a bit sad on the inside!
  2. One of the best upgrades you can do is to fit seats from the super deluxe models, but in this day and age they might be difficult to find. I am not sure what other models use the same seat bolt spacing. Depending on where you are, if there is a breaker/wrecker/junk yard near where you live where they allow you to take parts off yourself, go down there and try a few things in the yard, take your tape measure etc.
  3. That person would have been me....I don't think shipping from Australia has got any cheaper. I would have thought someone in the US or Canada would have one which would be closer and cheaper to ship
  4. On the GC, the heater has a valve that is operated by the lever on the dash. For a start check that there are hoses from the engine going through the firewall, a lot of owners choose to bypass the core when it starts to leak (which they all do at this age) If the hoses are still there it is more than likely that the cable is not opening the valve for whatever the reason. Another possibility is that the core is filled with sludge, and if the rest of the cooling system is clean then may be this is unlikely but it has been know to happen
  5. Their biggest problem is that the throttle bodies wear in high mileage ones but other than that I've not had too many issues so look for one without any play in the throttle shaft
  6. I think my situation arose as I used a pulley that came off a Japanese grey import motor, why it didn't have the mark I don't remember, but it is possible that there may have been different combinations out there and mixing the parts creates an issues
  7. Maybe neither of them! This engine continued on into the E2000 vans right up until about 2000 and so you might be able to find something at the wreckers that works. Note that the Auto & manual ones have slightly different jetting and air bleed sizes, whether this problem has anything to do with what you are seeing on #2 I am not sure. I have used an auto carb on a manual but not the other way around.
  8. I created a timing mark for my car when it did not have one in this very way. This is why I posted the information. I used part of a hacksaw blade to make an indent and then liquid paper to make a white mark that would show with a timing light. You could do something similar.
  9. In my experience if there is only one mark it's TDC. I have no idea why there would be no timing mark before, but I have come across this situation, it could be that a mixture of parts has been used, one designed for marks on the timing cover and one on the pulley. Its pretty easy to work out mathematically; Pulley Diameter x PI x static timing in degrees / 360. You can work it out in radians if you want but I find this way more intuitive to non mathematicians. In essence imagine the pulley as a piece of pie and the timing mark representing the size of the slice away from TDC. The
  10. The ignition mark is the first one, i.e. it comes around before the TDC mark as the engine rotates clockwise......if that makes sense
  11. Some manifolds are square port and some are round port, but generally they match for the same shape, sometimes there are strange things like internal EGR through late model heads but if your not using it, it'll be a matter of blanking it off.
  12. Yeah, I used to do that sort of thing, works well if you have the space and if you have a reasonable workshop you can separate out the different scrap metals from what's left and get some more coin from the scrap metal dealer...prices aren't what they used to be 5 years ago tho lol
  13. If I were you I'd probably just head down to a breakers yard and pull all the knuckle/hub assemblies off a 5 stud model. Not sure how common these cars are where you are tho. Then you'd have to change your wheels which would be a shame cos they look really good. I am not sure what you are proposing to do tho, maybe post some pics of the part, are you talking about pressing a different hub into your knuckle assembly and then wanting to know if the axle/CV shaft still fits?
  14. I am pretty sure you would need to change the whole assembly but doing so should bolt up ok. Just be careful as you would then probably need to change the whole car to 5 stud and doing that means things like changing park brake cables if you swap between drums & discs. Plus the proportioning valve is different for cars with rear drums than discs. Front you will need to make sure you get 26 spline hubs; most are, only turbo models are 28 and these probably weren't sold where 1.8 models with 4 stud hubs were but you never know.
  15. I don't think I have any of those, all my stuff is series I, but I'll have a look anyway
  • Create New...