OhSchnapps

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About OhSchnapps

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/04/1988

Previous Fields

  • Car
    2001, 626 ES, 2.0L, Automatic

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  • AIM
    Mstrmind2488

Profile Information

  • Location
    Westfield, New Jersey
  • Interests
    My car, Snailman153624's car

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  1. Price dropped on Craigslist to $1500 obo. I am willing to part out at this point!!!! Upgrade to leather seats! Buy the subwoofer! Replace your rear view mirror! Buy the moustache hanging from the mirror and get all the ladies! Upgrade to a Magnaflow XL 2" muffler!
  2. Hello fellers. Its time to finally say goodbye to my daily driver for over a decade. Figured someone here could part out or part-in since you all know these cars inside and out. Here are the details, as copypasta'd from my craigslist ad: The car. The myth. The legend. Selling my Mazda 626 ES, who has served me well for over 11 years of his 17 years of life. I am the second owner; I purchased it from a family friend at 65,050 miles in 2006 and have held on tight since. It is now approaching 168,000, and it is time to let go. Good:Oil changes with synthetic only; do it myself.Leather interiorRemote start, 2 keys & 3 remotesHeat and A/C both workTransmission @ 56,000 milesAll lights work, replaced many with LEDsAftermarket head unit and 10" subwoofer to compliment the stock Bose system (YES it has an AUX plug!)Starts 100% of the time, every timePaint is in good condition and no peeling or rustNO ACCIDENTS EVERBad:Exhaust leak/rust on exhaust pipes, muffler clamped onCEL (P0421 Warm up cat efficiency below threshold; the warm-up cat is 4 years old and the o2 sensors are ~4 as well)Loud due to exhaust leakOil leaking from valve cover gasket and oil pressure switch (total $30 at auto parts store plus time)Steering wheel and drivers seat have wear and tearHeadliner saggingTires have seen better days; three are leakingCrack on passenger underside of front bumperThat's it!I am asking $2500 obo. Asking for reasonable offers.With some TLC this can be a 300,000 mile car! *note* sorry the Miata does not come with purchase
  3. Well the issue is the line has a hole in it, so while adding a cooler may help keep the trans alive, it still won't solve my immediate problem, unless the aftermarket cooler actually replaces the current lines. They called last night and said they could do it today for $259, which is a lot for my current income but it could be a lot worse. They have to fabricate a new line because it is in fact discontinued from the dealer. I think $259 is a reasonable price to get my DD back.
  4. Hey guys so one of the transmission cooling lines (passenger side of bay, under the fan) rusted out and sprung a leak! The fluid ran out and i can't get it in gear; the fluid also drips too fast to try and fill/drive intermittently. I towed to a shop and theyre looking into it. They say they can't just patch it, and they can't get the part. They're waiting to hear back from the dealer, but if its discontinued they will have TO FABRICATE it and at 160,xxx miles I don't know if that's gonna be worth it. Does anyone happen to know anything about this part, ran into this problem, have any solutions that aren't gonna cost me a kidney! I don't want to say goodbye to my child. 2001 626, ES, 2.0L, CD4E trans
  5. ^ I figured. No worries. The one i have is a catback I got done for $180 (+ a $60 Magnaflow XL muffler) done by meineke. Rusted to shit in 3 years. The muffler itself is fantastic and in great shape still, but the meineke piping is done for. Thats why I was looking for a legit exhaust. I can get it re-done or shop around I suppose. Thanks for replying though.
  6. Sorry to revive this thread, but: A) Do you still have the exhaust B) Will it fit on a 4cyl 01 American or is it only for KLZE C) Is this a cat delete pipe or no 4) Is a test pipe illegal My muffler rusted near the weld and fell off, I have it clamped with a sleeve pretty well and and bandaged underneath. It isn't leaking but the rust is pretty bad so I will need to get a new cat back at least.
  7. I was excited about them and then I realized they were for a 4th gen :.( I don't need wheels, I have an exhaust already, and I dunno what I would do with those engine mounts lol. Good luck selling buddy
  8. Hey do those headlights only fit a 93-97? My '01 wouldn't take them, would it?
  9. All interesting info to know nonetheless. However, when it cycles, it cycles while driving also, not only in park, and my coolant is always full, and I don't believe i've had any overheating issues (aside from the damn auto trans of course -_- ) Oh, it started doing it again, and I just checked the freon levels; its full. Oh yes, and djdevon I made sure I bought a recharge can that has oil in it; it also has a "leak stopping" additive in it.
  10. Ok, how will i know if the switch is "bad"? just check for leaking oil or non-snug fit? I'm pretty sure the leak isnt coming from that side of the engine, but i will check in case it is from there and just running off to a different location before seeping downward.
  11. I don't know where the oil pressure switch is on my car, the oil filter seems to be on nice and snug with no leaks. Ive seen posts about the switch on here, but they are referring to older gen 626's, it might not be in the same place. I felt around up there by the oil filter, but i cant really see up above the other parts.
  12. update: I'm not going to flood the post with more pictures but I did take some from underneath if anyone would like to see. It seems there is oil around the outside of the oil pan gasket... it is not dripping so I didn't notice it at first; the oil pan itself is clean and dry. But it is definitely moist around the gasket. Could be a future concern, but it doesn't seem like the culprit as I'm smelling burning oil which must be coming from elsewhere.
  13. Sounds good. I'll look there today. I think, assuming that grommet was left out when I replaced the gasket, and I changed the valve cover gasket ~50k ago, and oil has been leaking slowly from there all this time....it may in fact be the one and only culprit. Over time, the oil could have spread out on the bottom of the engine, collecting gunky road dust and debris the whole time, caking it on there. Now that I've replaced the grommet (I used the small one, should I try the long one instead?) I will go under there, wipe as much gunk off as I can, and check if it returns next oil change.
  14. Ok. "grommet" was the word im looking for. :) By "full blast" I didn't mean it was spraying out forcibly or rapidly, just that it was flowing out for less time than it used to before slowing to a drip. The smell of burnt oil has permeated into the cabin, so it must be more than a small leak. There is a little ash around the front (exhaust side) of the valve cover, but it's just odd, there's no signs of leak otherwise on that side, nothing seeped below on that side. The side where the red arrow is pointing does have black gunk which could be partially burnt oil, but with all the hoses and crap in there its really hard to tell if it's dripping all the way down or not.
  15. Hey again, I recently went to change my oil, and unscrewed the plug only to watch it drain at full blast for about 5 seconds before slowing to a drip. Usually it is more gradual than that, which tells me I was low on oil, and I know I fill it correctly and measure each time. After looking around a bit, the outside of the pan is clean and dry, and there are no oil spots on the ground, but I found that the bottom of the engine had moist gunk all over it, which I assume is oil that leaked out. I also began smelling that "90's japanese sports car" smell a few months ago, so tie these together, and we get......a slow-ish oil leak that's burning off the block before it makes it to the driveway, right? I didn't get back under there to try and pinpoint the leak from the bottom, and I'm PRAYING it's not the head gasket. However, I took a look around the valve cover (gasket replaced about 50k miles ago) and noticed one of the bolts on the driver's side didn't have one of those metal/rubber washer things in it, and some wet oil/gunk in the area around it. I found a few washers in my extra parts baggie, but there were two lengths (see below) and I wasn't sure which one to use. I picked the smaller one; assuming both would have fit, does it matter which one I use? Should I try and put the longer one in? Also, could that missing washer thing cause a large enough leak like I've explained? Should I try and get a snap from underneath for us to examine? I did look around a little while I was under the car, but nothing significant stood out to my non-mechanic eyes other than the oil (and my wet transmission case, but that's another story altogether LMAO). The oil filter is on snug, and again no leak from the pan. Thanks guys!