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pocketcat29

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About pocketcat29

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  1. I had used the product during gas-ups. Usually, I would put the seafoam in first while the tank was about 1/8 to 1/4 tank and then top off with gasoline. I don't recall ever adding without gas up's. During the time I found help on Mazda626 about cleaning the IAC which ultimately resolved my idle issue. I was using seafoam because I had suspected that water had entered my gas tank either from a loose gas cap or from bad gasoline at the pump. I think the timing of the fuel pump failure and the use of the seafoam might be related. I still have some seafoam and your comment on doing it less frequently makes sense. Thanks for your feedback!
  2. I know that Seafoam has many positive properties related to how it can remove water from the gas tank or clean fuel injectors. I was curious if anyone has had a fuel pump go out after using the product? I started using it while investigating idle issues with my 2000 Mazda 626. I used about 4 16 oz cans over a 3 month period and then my fuel pump failed. I have several cans of this stuff and would like to get benefit from it. Perhaps I used to much too soon or it might not be at all related. Any feedback on the affects of gasoline additives like Seafoam on the fuel pump are appreciated. Thank you.
  3. The OEM Mounts have been installed. They cost an additional $300 but well worth it. They resolved all of the vibration issues at idle in my case, therefore I no longer suspect the timing job. It would have been more appropriate in my case to address one issue at a time and replace the broken mounts first and timing belt afterwards. By doing both at the same time, it was difficult to make any assumptions about the vibration source. Thanks for the advice!
  4. Excellant Analysis!! That makes perfect sense and a very likely explanation for what is occuring with my 2000 Mazda 626 LX since changing the belt. It's in the shop this morning. I'll be sure to followup on how it turns out. The OEM factory mounts were installed and the vibration is all but gone. I only get very slight vibration with the AC on and while in gear. The idle after warm up is between 650 and 750. When idle speeds are above 800 RPM's, it is quite smooth. It's ironic that on 98 and later Mazda 626 that there is no idle adjustment. If you know of a way to adjust the idle, I am all ears. The normal idle without AC no longer causes vibration. In this case, the after market mounts seem to be the culprit. My mazda has always been smooth driving, but at while in gear, let just say, you know the car is running. Does anyone have a Mazda that runs totally without vibration after 60K?
  5. 165K Miles !! Good Deal! I hope I can get that far after my pending maintenance is all done. The Timing Kit, WaterPump, Antifreeze, and Labor ran about $475 in my case. The mounts were in the $300 neighborhood. The shop I had the work done initially put aftermarket solid rubber mounts on the car. The OEM mounts are hydraulic and from what I have learned thus far, it makes a big difference. The verdict will be out on the new hydraulic mounts after getting installed tomorrow, so I'll update those results when they come in.
  6. The car came back home today because the rear motor mount that goes on the transmission is being re-ordered as an OEM part. Apparently, the transmission guy ordered an aftermarket mount that is adjustable and causing vibration when there is extra load on the transmission. I would have thought if it was adjustable that it would be all the more easier to resolve. They were insistant about the timing being dead on after I had repeated some of the comments in this post. I will give the benefit of doubt since they are committed to fixing it either way. More drama to come.
  7. Excellant Analysis!! That makes perfect sense and a very likely explanation for what is occuring with my 2000 Mazda 626 LX since changing the belt. It's in the shop this morning. I'll be sure to followup on how it turns out.
  8. Any ideas as to why my AC compressor won't turn on when i tighten my belts? Just an idea, but you may want to make sure you don't have an antifreeze drip from the waterpump or hoses hitting the belts. This would cause them to sqeal in the morning and and clear up after the antfreeze is rubbed off by the belt. Try putting a peice of cardboard or something below the waterpump and check in the morning. As for the AC compressor, make sure you the radiator fans are running. I had a similar problem with my fan relay which just needed to be replaced, a $11 repair.
  9. Yes, I definitely plan to return to the shop for the excessive vibration. They charged me for all of the mounts and the shop has a pretty good reputation for its work. What is the liklihood of an bad mount. The engine has good power and accellerates smoothly. The transmission shifts smoothly for the most part except between first and second is a little jerky, but it was like that prior to rebuilding the transmission. It seems like the car would run poorly for the Timing Belt being off a tooth. I do not have any noise from the new belt. Would the additional load from the AC exaggerate the vibration if it was off a tooth or if there is a load on the engine while sitting still?
  10. I have a 2000 Mazda 626 LX with the 2L I4. Rebuilt Transmission at 80K last November. I started having excessive vibration while having the transmission in gear and stopped. The lower mount was broken and the rest of them were stretched according to the transmission shop. Last month at 110K miles, I replaced all of the mounts and the timing belt, gears, tensioner, and waterpump as part of regular maintenance. The car has less vibration at a stop than before, but when placing additional load such as the AC, the vibration is much worse. I have seen several topics on vibration, but as I have just completed having the Timing Belt serviced, I was hoping to get some feedback about whether or not it could be related to the vibration effect I am having. The car does idle smooth at 1100 RPMS when the AC is OFF, but drops to about 650-750 with it ON, also much rougher idle. I also notice when the AC if OFF and I am parked at a stop with the car in gear, the idle gradually drops from about 1000 RPM to 650-750 which results in a excessive vibration. What are should the normal RPMs be once turning on the AC or alternatively having the car in gear at a stop with the AC turned OFF or ON? I feel like I need to return to the shop to look further, but I would appreciate any feedback on this topic. Thanx!
  11. I hope the only difference is the dealer price vs aftermarket. I bought one today that I'm about to install on my 2000 Mazda 626. Although I didn't have any code indictating a failure, I had it checked and it wasn't passing any data. Anyway, it's my DIY instinct to give it a try and if it doesn't work, I'll bite the bullet and get the dealer parts. But yeah, at least a 60% savings on the aftermarket universal brand. Just FYI, the Universal kit specifically includes a wiring diagram for the Mazda. If I get all my stuff done today, I'll give you an update on it.
  12. I have had no more stalling events after cleaning the MAF sensor. I have continued to add SeaFoam to the gas (every other fillup) to clean the injectors and remove water and other elements from the gas tank. I did a smoke test on the vacuum lines, but didn't find anything. This may just be marketing, but the MAF cleaner product recommends cleaning the sensor with each change of the air filter. I had no idea it would need to be cleaned so often. It seems to be working so far, and since I have a whole can, it should last to make that a part of my regular maintenance. Cheers!!
  13. Just to clarify, the NGK plugs I installed were standard plugs, not the premium titanium. I presume the premiums may be pre-gapped correctly per a prior posting.
  14. Just a note, because I am having the same problem. If you decide to replace the plugs, they will most likely need to have the gap adjusted for your car. The gap setting on spark plugs for 2000 Mazda 626 is 0.044. The NGK sparkplugs were gapped at 0.036. Make sure you have a sparkplug 5/8 socket to install, because they sit deep inside the manifold. On the MAF, it looks like a 3 inch black square connected to the rear of the air filter chamber and it says MAF on it with a direction of airflow. You will likely need a Torq T-20 socket to remove it for cleaning. I had to buy a whole set of Torq sockets, about $15, because I couldn't find it as an individual socket. Hopefully, you will have better luck than I. Just ask your parts dealer for MAF cleaner. You might find it near carburator cleaner, but FYI!! you do NOT want to use carb cleaner on the MAF, because it's more corrosive. I've got 55K on my 2000 Mazda 626 and going through the same steps to resolve the idle problem. Try using some fuel additive called Seafoam once about every fillup for about a month, and then continue about 1 every 3-4 fillups to remove water from the gas and clean the injectors, etc. Good Luck!!
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