madaz_gc_85

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About madaz_gc_85

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    Member
  • Birthday 11/29/1981

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  • Car
    85 Super Deluxe Turbo 2.0L CFI Manual Hatch Series 3 and 86 Super Deluxe Turbo 2.0L CFI Manual Hatch Series 3 and Honda Civic 2 Door

Profile Information

  • Location
    Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia
  • Interests
    Nitro helicopters, Mechanics, Astronomy,...Jack of all trades certified at some....

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  1. Update. Mazda's are going well, small jobs here and there other than that they are going strong. As ya's all know I love to stir up Hornets nests, well any thing that needs to be stirred WILL be with me, Anyhow to my point, I now also own a EG5 Honda Civic 2 door hatch D16y1 engine with V-Tec and 5spd manual, Moon roof, Rice Rocketed with spoiler kit, 17" mags, chipped ECU etc.. etc... Going to get stickers for all three of my cars eventually, Mazda's will have "My other car is a Honda" and the Honda will have "My other car is a Mazda" or "Piss on Honda" on the Mazda's and "Piss on Mazda" on the Honda that will get them going I'm sure... XD! Enjoy!!
  2. I Love to stir the Hornets nest,... I now own a EG5 Honda Civic 2 door with V-Tec XD!! All the 626er's and all the Civic owners gonna hate now if they didn't before.

  3. Its all trial and error mate honestly, a few pointers, if AF meter was dodgy you would have 2 distinct signs either a no start situation or a lack of power when accelerating (Known as Fail Safe). Fuel pump being dodgy you only really have 1 sign, no start, however if ur fuel regulator is faulty engine would run starved or flood and stall. Note, I have had a issue with one of my cars where the fuel pump connection was not connecting properly, and would start then stall then no start like its a dead pump. I later sorted that out by putting a dutch connector in place of old connector plug. There are a few other things to consider/cancel out but at least you have somewhere to start. Also more details will help me get a picture of your issue, PS. Ive run both my cars to empty previously and it never hurt them one bit. Just make sure you know the condition of the inside of your fuel tank as you may have contaminants in the bottom. Regards.
  4. Sent you a reply to your PM... Sorry I have been really busy lately will do my best to help you out.
  5. Firstly, Updating/Editing Garaged vehicles doesn't work its asking for a database as a required field and the drop box has no options for it thus cannot update at all and Secondly the title to our Garaged vehicles has code on either side, <p>Mazda 626 Turbo</p> for example and no way to remove it.
  6. Whats the matter with your loom? It all depends on where and what part of the loom and what the issue is, I may be able to help you.
  7. Here is the topic I made a fair while back, all regards to the digital error code checker for the GC, Particularly post #4 should sort out your code reading issue at least,.. its like a how to guide kinda....heres the link.... http://mazda626.net/topic/40588-mazda-digital-error-code-checker/ good luck and I hope you get it sorted.
  8. These things happen, for like better part of 6 months I had a hidden drama with my pcv valve, I even swapped over with my other turbo's pcv, (almost brand new) and the good one did the same thing... I was stumped for diagnosis then a few weeks ago a fellow 626er dropped by and I showed him what was happening and this time the new pcv worked, leaving the old pcv the culprit, it was very intermittent and hard to tell if it had a problem. All fixed now though and im super deluxe happy its sorted. Glad to see you may not even need to buy a new igniter, hope it goes well for you, only need to fire it up now yea?... keen to hear how it goes...
  9. Yea I did notice your dizzy is a bit different from the pic I saw in the other post, a bigger lower housing, mine does not have a no.1 cylinder sensor and that being the difference between mine and yours I guess, on mine the pickup coil wires connect thru to the igniter if I remember as I only have three wires at the plug connector. Note:- the rockauto part I linked you may be the same but im not sure as of right now, being MPFI im jus not positive.
  10. A quick update:- Silver bullet is goin great, sorted out the ignorant pcv drama I had now im jus detailing and doing a few other minor jobs,.. like install digital boost gauge, drivers cv boot replacement, manual boost controller plug-up and possible digital volt meter install, Also thinking of doing a better paint job on the rear wing, I want that glossy black.
  11. Virginity is like a balloon, One prick and its gone, Wouldnt it suck if u lived in a bubble tho?.

  12. No its not in the knock control unit I never said that, knock control unit controls only knock sensor from block, its only other function would be to serve as a continuous connection thru to igniter and pickup coil thru to coil and then back to ecu. I said its in the distributer housing not knock control unit. the link I gave you for rockauto is the igniter that u said you were looking for. Chief posted up a knock control unit, but it does not house the igniter. I have dismantled 3 of these and know from fact that the dizzy houses the igniter... which I don't think is any difference to the us model apart from it being mpfi. Here I have an exploded view of the distributer so to see it.
  13. If your car is turbo the igniter is NOT in the knock control module, its in the distributer as I said in your igniter post I have pulled three apart and know this very well to be the case. Check your wiring diag plain to see.. and the link for the igniter... http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1189739&parttype=7172
  14. E-101 is exactly the knock control unit as the GC turbo's have, so there maybe other cars with the same parts, very interesting and good to hear, id suspect it then to have mostly the same matching components with it that the GC turbo can also use, then again they might only use 2 or 3 of the same component.
  15. Close chief, the knock control unit connects to the igniter thru the dizzy via pickup coil but doesn't house the knock control unit itself, its screwed to the firewall. US versions im not very familiar with so they may incorporate it in the igniter. I had a look at rockauto and they stock the part for a mazda 626 1986 turbo igniter, they call it a ignition control module, it states that its for turbocharged L4 2.0L. Mine, if I remember rightly was the top one, for under 20 bucks, I notice there is two types where the wires connect, I havnt seen the other type only the top type in article where wires plug on either side and not toward the center if u see what I mean here is the link to point you in some direction at least. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1189739&parttype=7172 Also keep the old one if u can you never know there may be a way to fix it, or at least use it to reference the correct one for your car . Hope that will help, also we have a rockauto rep of sorts here on mazda626.net that may be able to assist you further if it is the turbo one or not. Goodluck and keep us updated....