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Mr Loyyy!!!

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About Mr Loyyy!!!

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  • Birthday 12/26/1988

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  1. Sorry for th late reply. I ended up taking it to my dad's friends shop. When it first got there, he said that the engine is very weak when trying to start. He said it could be loss of compression somewhere. Well I got a all today and he told me the timing belt pulley is broken off and the mark used for timing could be off too. So I'm gonna try and install A new timing belt & pulley and see if the car runs. If it does, I'll be a very happy guy. If not, well head will most likely be damaged and maybe even the valves.
  2. Thank you guys for the quick replies!! Unfortunately my car is at a gas station. Ima tow it back to my place and do the tests. I have a Hayne's manual, so I'll follow it for the test and will get back with the results soon.
  3. Well, I had just recently changed my thermostat cuz it got stuck and made my car over heat a lot! Everything seemed fine. I even drove the car 100+ miles that same day to another city. Well the next day I took it out for a drive and the first light i got to, my car started to shake violently and the CEL was blinking. I pull to the nearest gas station and check for leaks and fluids. Everything seems fine, so i start it again and drive to the next light and then my car started vibrating again, had a hard time accelerating, and wouldn't go past 25 mph. So, I pull to the next gas station and re-check fluids and leaks. Tried to start my car again, but this time it wouldn't start. I get the OBD-II error reader and it spat out P1131 (HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Signal Below 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Lean)) and P0301 (Cylinder 1 Misfire). I checked all the wires and spark plugs and everything looks good. No air leaks from my intake. Also when I tried to start it, smoke came out of the intake. Could it really be my O2 sensor that won't make my car start? Anyone can help me out over here? Thanks in advance.
  4. i didn't tighten them too much. and i know the head can get damaged and deformed from over-tightening them. i still have 3 of the original bolts (the long ones) in there and all of them are tightened to about the same torque spec. so if the big bolts break, then i know they are too tight and so far they are still in tact.
  5. hey guys. i just bought some Apex SS brake lines for my car because i want to upgrade my braking power. i know they don't directly improve it, just the feel of the braking. but i plan on getting drilled rotors and performance pads (maybe EBC green stuff). so my question is, can anyone tell me the torque specs for the brake lines in their haynes manual? and in which order to bleed the calipers (if they say it)? i lost mine and can't find it anywhere; and i am going out of town back to college pretty soon, so i wanna do it asap (have other stuff to do on my car too). thanks in advance!
  6. nice write up!! and ya, you need to tighten the VC bolt to the right specs. i did my front a while back and broke 2 bolts cuz i over tightened them. so i had to go to lowe's and get replacement ones, then i decided to replace all of them. the new bolt can handle the high torque and i didn't need to re-tighten them after the gasket gets softer. i think they fit 6mm holes (10mm head) and were 1.5" long. i didn't replace the longest ones cuz they didn't break. but now good thing i got myself a torque wrench. they will come in handy when i need to do other jobs.
  7. same here, i can't see an RX8 as a female car. and is250 is a chick car too. i see too many chicks on campus driving these.
  8. well since they are diodes (Light Emitting Diodes) there is no pos and neg. there is anode (a) and cathode (k). but i'm not going to confuse you, so pos and neg are ok for now. 2 of the legs are neg and 2 are pos. the ones with that have to "holes" on top are the pos and the other is neg. i'm not sure why you would need a capacitor. leds draw very little from the battery source. the capacitor that is wired to the regulator actually helps the regulator turn on and off smoothly from pressing the brake. i know that was a bad explanation, sorry. here is a link on how to wire superfluxes (4-leg leds): http://www.rcaz.com/images/electronics/superflux_diagrams.pdf
  9. I got my LEDs from eBay. But they are genuine lumileds. Getting the 4 led LEDs are way better than the traditional 2 legs. First off the resist vibration and pull heat away from the LEDs faster. I am planning on doing the rest of my tails this winter break. I know it's a long wait, but that's really the only time I will be free. And I already got my sequential module built. I will also look into how I can modify the flasher so they don't hyperflash. There is an electronic flasher, but it's 50 bucks! Way too much for me!
  10. true, and you won't enjoy all the work put into it if you can't even use it. i'm doing it for the fun of it. i'm also going to have sequential led turn signal. the whole clear lens area will be used as a turn signal. for back up lights, i will make an "eyebrow" inside the clear lens with white leds. i would draw it on photoshop and make led effects, but i'm too lazy and in a hurry. my class starts in 50 min.
  11. thanks. i don't really like spoilers, but i'm sure the led used in the spoiler is similar to mine, if not the exact same thing but maybe different angle. next, i will retro my tail lights; breaks, turns, and reverse will be retrofitted. i got all the leds needed, but need a whole day off to install them and stuff.
  12. i bought 1/2watt 100ohm resistors to wire 3 leds in a series and here is my "work bench". i bought a cheap solder iron from Fry's for 20 bucks. these are the leds compared to a penny. after i was done soldering, this is how the front and back looked like. the black thing on the edge is a sharp voltage regulator (pq12rd21). it makes sure the array never sees voltage above 12.6v (max) and typical 12v exactly. any excess voltage is let out in a form of heat. it protects the leds from burning out because of surges from the battery. the other blueish this is a capacitor. it smooths out voltage spikes going to the regulator. you can't see it, but i added a diode to the Vin pin (voltage in) on the regulator so electricity will not flow backwards. this is an extra protection so nothing will happen like blown fuses or worse fried bmc. this is how they look turned on. be warned, these are not how they look in person. the camera does not take good pictures. i messed around with the manual settings, but couldn't get a good pic. i used my iphone to hold it up, that's why it is there. i installed them in the housing using high temp glue gun 40w. i've used the same gun before and they hold really good, so i'm not worried about them falling off or anything else. these how the look behind the lens. it's a good thing the lens did not mess up the light output. i like it how you can see each led individually. this is how it looks like on the car. i added flash cuz they didn't look good in complete darkness (again, the manual settings did not help). but the are very bright. i would say brighter than the cheap led bulbs i bought a while back from v-leds combined. i could not get before shots because my regular bulb burnt out right before i installed it by a day or two. and i didn't feel like getting a new bulb just for comparison. but for anybody who's interested this is the part list and how much it costed me: 1) HPWT-DH00 leds (60 pcs) - $14.00 2) soldering station - $20.00 3) Sharp Voltage Regulator - $1.71 4) .33mF Capacitor - $1.00 5) Proto-board - $5.00 6) Cables (5 assorted colors)- $8.00 7) 3A 600v Diode - $1.00 Total -$50.71 the total may seem high, but i think it was worth it. plus, a big chunk of the money came from parts that will be used for later things like the soldering station & cables.
  13. Finally, i have completed my led retrofit for my 3rd break light. school was holding me back, especially summer semester. i made a 33 led array using genuine Phillips Lumileds HPWT-DH00. this was my first retrofit of any sorts and i think it went really smooth. i am also happy about the output, very bright and fast response. here are the pics: this is the back of the 3rd break light assembly this is the lens removed. it was very easy removing it, not cutting what so ever. i was surprised by that. i cut a proto board and test fitted it. it turned out to be to close to the lens and the leds wouldn't fit. so i trimmed the edges and i finally got it to fit.
  14. that would be pretty cool to put some LEDs in them how much time would it probably take and what all would i have to do to retrofit um into the lights well you would have to find leds in the first place, and they are hard to find. you would have to know about wiring leds and protecting them with regulators, blocking diodes, etc. you really have to spend a long time studying them. i spent almost a year on reading on electronics that is related to leds. actually, tail light retros are a lot easier that headlight retro. with headlights, you have to worry about aiming and rotation, making sure the projector fits, hiding the projector hardware, etc. with tail lights, all you have to do is cut them open and cut a piece of proto-board to fit in a section (whether brakes, signals, etc). the rest of the work will be done outside the tail lights like soldering, testing them, adding special features (like strobing). with headlight, almost all of the work is done inside with limited room. you can't aim a projector outside the headlight. anyway, led tail lights will be brighter than stock. they will also give the instant on/off look like most new cars and all luxury cars do. they will also provide more distributed look than stock bulbs and are consume a lot less energy. for 60 of my leds, they take about 750mW when brakes are pressed; where as a regular bulb takes 21W when brakes are pressed.
  15. rubber necking!!!! especially when the accident is on the grass and off the interstate. oh, i said that cuz california is bankrupt right now. and the are not doing much about it, just giving people "official IOUs"
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