MonoxideChild

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About MonoxideChild

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  • Birthday 07/10/1979

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    you name it, i own it...

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    RockFord,IL

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  1. To get some fuel out of the tank, just remove the fuel line off your fuel filter, or even fuel rail in the engine bay, and then turn the key forward, and let the fuel pump do the work. Just make sure to have the other end you removed in a bucket or something to catch the fuel.
  2. Only the 93+ cars have to drop the entire tank to replace the pump. Not an issue on our older models though.
  3. I know on the probes there were two different styles of that bottom latch. Early ones you had to use a flathead screw driver to pop by pushing in. Later 90+ ones had a small tab you could just push in by hand. Not really sure if the Mazda version were similar, but id assume so.
  4. Why are you running the smaller NA G series on your GT's? Not hating, just wondering why.
  5. When i installed the rare Alcantra Speed3 seats in my Mazda6, I did mostly everything the same way you did. Cept i cut the rivets off the feet from the rails. I really like you just cut the rails off first. That would have saved me from some awkward angles. One thing i did differently was when i had the lone donor 'feet', i bolted them bare to the floor as if they were seats installed. Then at that point i positioned the two seats where i wanted them, and hit them with a few spot welds. Then removed them to do the finish welds.
  6. Probably because its not as simple as just a motor swap. That would need a new cross member, Motor, trans, wiring, mounts, and so on. On top of all the investment he already has into the FS.
  7. Exactly. And i believe our fuel is on a different rating system, so we dont get as high an octane as is available elsewhere. Which you need higher octane fuel, for higher compression cars generally.
  8. Higher compression pistons, will give higher compression readings. Its kinda how it works. Higher compression means more powa.
  9. The 2002 would have had a KLG4 motor originally. The Millenia has a KLDE stock. There are quite a few things you would have to swap to make it run. INCLUDING the rear heads cam gear with the magnets, the cam cap that has a sensor. Im willing to bet your friend missed that one at least, which would effect it running.
  10. Is the wiring even getting power? Id test that and go from there.
  11. UE FS's probably have higher compression pistons. Just like the US KL's are 9:2:1, where as the KLZE imports are 10:1.
  12. That adjustment isnt for the handbrake. Its for the normal brake Its the adjustment for the engagement point. Its very important. The entire system was designed around it.
  13. Keeping it on will keep it cleaner, which will make the belt physically last longer. Not to mention with it removed, you risk accidentally getting your hand/sleeve caught while its running if your working in the engine bay. Along with allowing the chance of something falling into the timing belt without the cover. Now even with all that said, Ive ran a few of my cars without the cover, and with my adjustable timing gear, will probably forever. I dont drive my car alot, and its not like ill ever drive it on a gravel road, and risk kicking anything up. So i really dont care.
  14. It sounds like your not using the hidden adjuster to adjust them correctly. Here's a thread with pics so you can do them properly. :) http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701283258
  15. There not a interference motor like Ademan said. Just have to slap on a new belt, and go. Ive done the repair on the side of a highway 3 hours from home before. Good to hear you got it all figured out, without a mechanic convincing you the entire engine needed a rebuild.