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About Leev

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 07/12/1990

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    89' 626 5 door GT - ATX to MTX / 91' MX-6 LX-(T) MTX

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  1. Happy Easter from Domino's, the only damn place open around here...
  2. If a DX parked in my driveway, I could turbo swap it overnight with parts I have lying around. Then just buy oil and coolant. If I had to source them, total cost might be around $400. For "everything", as long as we exclude the GT drivetrain. Which isn't 100% required. Gauges and peripherals extra. A 'really good' GT in my area, could be anywhere from $1-2,500. Haggling would ensue, of course. Still not cheap enough to justify it. A quality DX or even LX could be had for half that. If you're so inclined, spend the savings on the basic GT parts you need. And still have $ left over. I'm going to be biased of course, but turbo swapping a DX is so ridiculously simple, why wouldn't you want to do it? :) My LX-T loves boost. My DD became a very fast DD. Nothing wrong with that.
  3. Holy crap, that is a CLEAN GT. What is going on with those seats? How rare are those...
  4. You could not pay me any amount of money to redline a 2.2 in any gear, above all 1st. Good god man. The poor engine and trans. With OEM valve springs and head design, there's no power being made up there, not without serious porting and valve train mods. As far as you're problem, could be a spark gap issue. I've stuttered from that. Also ignition timing. You're playing an extremely dangerous game not having a wideband installed. Without knowing AFR, the stuttering could be anything.
  5. Distributor housing. That's what I call it. I have a couple extras I think.
  6. Thanks man, I appreciate that. It's very tight and sensitive on the road, I think it's a touch too light for how stiff it now is. Someday I'll properly weight balance it. Camera car in the video is my friend Jim in his mark 4 supra, lol. I can kinda keep up with his stock-ish mark 3, but his twin turbo 2JZ walks right past me.
  7. 9am photoshoot becuase why not I guess It's done for now. Everything I want on there is on, for the most part. It doesn't need anything major, or large maintenance tasks. I'm going to mess with the ride height maybe, as I'm a stickler for correct suspension geometry. I don't like my upside down control arms, and how it drives.
  8. The hardest part is finding the room to do it, on your 4runner, you should have plenty of room. With the right open end wrench, it won't take long at all. With my limited room, it took a long time to just get a grip on the inner rods wrench spot to loosen them. I also couldn't find my pickle fork for a while, so I hit a wall trying to pop the pass. side outer tie rod off the spindle. Luckily I found the fork tool before the sun went down. When I got home today I decided to stop procrastinating and deal with the FC camber plates. I knew I had to press out the studs they came with, and press in the O.E studs. I just didn't know how I was going to do it. I figured it out... Socket under stud, and a light kiss with the sledge on the top and it pops right out. Opposite for pressing in. Also dug around and found just the right drill bit to make the holes a touch bigger. My computer situation is complicated kinda... GTX960, but the PC is very outdated, so it bottlenecks games. 8G of DDR2 ram, and a Q6600 Intel CPU. Graphically, I'm fine. But anything that requires fast ram or too much thinking, I get a stutter or less frames. On average I can run most games on fairly high settings. Depends on the game. Here's the screen setup: The widescreen TV is set to 1920X1080, the wide monitor on the right is set to 1680X1050. I'll never go back to a single monitor again. I need my duels.
  9. Skip to 3:40 Who is this????? I want your louvers!!!!
  10. Today's task: Only thing I didn't accomplish were the camber plates. This was my one day off and the family came over so I had a small window of time to replace all the tie-rods and do the front bar. The front bar is a monster, getting it in through the driver side wouldn't have happened if the all the steering components weren't out. After doing the inner and outer tie-rods, I spun the front tires and marked the middle while it spun, I then measured the front and back of the tires with a measuring tape to get the toe in/out "close enough" to get me to work tomorrow morning. Friday I have a 5-9pm shift so I'll get a real alignment before work. Surprisingly, it drives fairly straight for an eyeballed toe change.
  11. I tried to get an alignment done before work today, and when I found a reasonable shop, the mech was kind enough to stop and tell me the driver side inner tie rod is shot, there's play. So I skipped the alignment. Which is a bummer, but presents a opportunity. I ordered 2 inners and 2 outers, which interestingly enough are due to arrive right when my Addco front sway bar is due. Taking out the front steering and suspension is the only time to replace a front sway bar. Perfect. The front bar will complete my Addco bar set, with the rear bar already on. Been waiting for the stars to align and finally get the front aftermarket sway bar since 2006. I'm very excited. Considering painting it green to match other things. Considering.
  12. Before I left for work today, I dropped the front down as low as I could without modifying the struts, like I did before. Then I just matched the rears, those have more wiggle room. Here's the result: Not bad.
  13. Gave it a wash on break: Love all my new gauges That column gauge mount is very custom. and very JDM. Foam and black duct tape. SO, the drive home. 'Responsive" doesn't seem to cover it. It's one step beyond responsive. With a proper tire and smaller/reinforced sidewall, all my suspension upgrades can really shine. I have a lot of very nice suspension mods, but those cheapy 225/50s rendered them useless. The sidewall flex made it handle like a caddillac. Understeer even. "Handles like it's on rails", would be a good phrase to use. I need to have it aligned soon, but as of right now it's a whole new car. P.S. My ADDCO front swaybar, after 3 months since purchase, has finally shipped. When I install that, the suspension mods are 'for the most part', done.
  14. I'm trying to save this guys pictures and link them, but it's coming out blank. I have them on my phone. This guys MX-6 has been my role model since 2008: http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-appearance-mods/214909-put-some-fd-rims-woot.html 245/45/16s. Aside from the FMIC, and faded flaps, it's perfect. Love that guys car. And I caved in and went outside for pictures, here ya go: If I dick with the coilovers and go lower, to get rid of the wheel gap, I'll pretty much be slammed and the slightest speed hump will ruin my day. As it sits right now, I've lost a fair amount of practical ride height. The trade off I made was: 225/50: Big sidewall / ride height / practicality / lack of cornering VS 225/45: Small sidewall / epic cornering / less ride height / not as practical for DD.