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About Leev

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 07/12/1990

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    1991 Mazda MX-6 LX-T, MTX

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  1. This is news to me, the second gen 4cyl G series is an upgrade over the 88-89 G series?
  2. Don't know where to post this so I'm bumping this thread. I haven't changed my avatar because I can't get past this: " The file must be smaller than 0.09765625MB. " Even when it IS that impossibly small, I can't get it to accept anything. I don't how how I got it to work before. I'd really like an increase in minimum file size. Used to automatically resize your picture I think, which was fantastic. Last question, are signatures ever coming back? I'd like to list my mods for easy reference.
  3. {Run multipleexcuses.exe} //Charge pipe blew in 4th gear// //Only running 10Psi// /{End multipleexcuses.exe}
  4. I really fail at updating, sorry. Regarding the crash; My best guess, and from what I found, the front left wheel locked up. The caliper somehow lost the top bolt and rotated against the wheel (I think). There was a deep gouge in the rotor. Something locked up. You can hear the one tire squealing in the video, I wasn't braking after I felt it slip, but one wheel was. Stopping power has increased, and it feels okay. However, I still have clapped out drums in the back. I have new rear rotors, bearings and seals waiting. I'll do a rear disk swap very soon. The head gasket blew (or headbolts just stretched) maybe 2 months ago while trying to stay neck and neck with a MKIII supra.. But it made very little impact on 'driveability', as the coolant wasn't mixing yet, and it just drank a jug of coolant every one/two weeks or so. Last saturday it finally mixed and was smoking at idle. I had to get to work on sunday so I drove on it, but monday morning I started the head swap. 10-4 two days, all done. -Good, reman head, new gasket (duh) -ARP head studs -Colt Tri-Flow cam Compressing, removing, and reinstalling dual valve springs with even a pretty good dedicated tool, is a nightmarish hellscape. I never want to do it again. I'm paying a cylinder head shop to do it. Takes me 1 hour to do one cylinder, 3 springs. (compress, remove, swap, compress, reinstall). Those tiny valve keepers can go ahead and #### themselves. Only pictures I took: It's back to full health. But I probably didn't mention the headgasket in the first place.
  5. The Yonakas were a substantial improvement from the GC+KYBs. I like them very much. It's been a complicated week, this happened friday night: In the middle of the turn, the driver side front wheel locks up and no correcting affected anything. Couldn't save it. Damage: Driver side subframe, hub, control arm, camber plate, caliper, wheel, tire. Replaced: Driver side subframe, hub, control arm. A lot left to do.
  6. I haven't bumped this since november? Wow... Well I'm not dead.. Recently installed: FMIC, charge piping and intake redone. T-bolt clamps. MSD 6al box w/ tach adapter. Temporary install location. Full 2.5 stainless mandrel exhaust, 2.5 dual outlet Spintech muffler. $15 fog lights painted with Krylon 'stained glass, canary yellow' Yonaka front coilovers installed. Rears going on eventually. 03-05 Mazda 6 front brake upgrade in progress. Almost ready for install. Euro spec two tone side mirrors. Old OEM rotor I had lying around, next to Rockauto special Mazda 6 rotor. (2X drilled slotted rotors for $80) Meh. More to come probably. Lots left to do, a couple things in the works.
  7. Happy Easter from Domino's, the only damn place open around here...
  8. If a DX parked in my driveway, I could turbo swap it overnight with parts I have lying around. Then just buy oil and coolant. If I had to source them, total cost might be around $400. For "everything", as long as we exclude the GT drivetrain. Which isn't 100% required. Gauges and peripherals extra. A 'really good' GT in my area, could be anywhere from $1-2,500. Haggling would ensue, of course. Still not cheap enough to justify it. A quality DX or even LX could be had for half that. If you're so inclined, spend the savings on the basic GT parts you need. And still have $ left over. I'm going to be biased of course, but turbo swapping a DX is so ridiculously simple, why wouldn't you want to do it? :) My LX-T loves boost. My DD became a very fast DD. Nothing wrong with that.
  9. Holy crap, that is a CLEAN GT. What is going on with those seats? How rare are those...
  10. You could not pay me any amount of money to redline a 2.2 in any gear, above all 1st. Good god man. The poor engine and trans. With OEM valve springs and head design, there's no power being made up there, not without serious porting and valve train mods. As far as you're problem, could be a spark gap issue. I've stuttered from that. Also ignition timing. You're playing an extremely dangerous game not having a wideband installed. Without knowing AFR, the stuttering could be anything.
  11. Distributor housing. That's what I call it. I have a couple extras I think.
  12. Thanks man, I appreciate that. It's very tight and sensitive on the road, I think it's a touch too light for how stiff it now is. Someday I'll properly weight balance it. Camera car in the video is my friend Jim in his mark 4 supra, lol. I can kinda keep up with his stock-ish mark 3, but his twin turbo 2JZ walks right past me.
  13. 9am photoshoot becuase why not I guess It's done for now. Everything I want on there is on, for the most part. It doesn't need anything major, or large maintenance tasks. I'm going to mess with the ride height maybe, as I'm a stickler for correct suspension geometry. I don't like my upside down control arms, and how it drives.
  14. The hardest part is finding the room to do it, on your 4runner, you should have plenty of room. With the right open end wrench, it won't take long at all. With my limited room, it took a long time to just get a grip on the inner rods wrench spot to loosen them. I also couldn't find my pickle fork for a while, so I hit a wall trying to pop the pass. side outer tie rod off the spindle. Luckily I found the fork tool before the sun went down. When I got home today I decided to stop procrastinating and deal with the FC camber plates. I knew I had to press out the studs they came with, and press in the O.E studs. I just didn't know how I was going to do it. I figured it out... Socket under stud, and a light kiss with the sledge on the top and it pops right out. Opposite for pressing in. Also dug around and found just the right drill bit to make the holes a touch bigger. My computer situation is complicated kinda... GTX960, but the PC is very outdated, so it bottlenecks games. 8G of DDR2 ram, and a Q6600 Intel CPU. Graphically, I'm fine. But anything that requires fast ram or too much thinking, I get a stutter or less frames. On average I can run most games on fairly high settings. Depends on the game. Here's the screen setup: The widescreen TV is set to 1920X1080, the wide monitor on the right is set to 1680X1050. I'll never go back to a single monitor again. I need my duels.