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ausloki last won the day on July 20 2014

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About ausloki

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  • Birthday 09/26/1969

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  1. Anyone interested in a KLZE engine. Engine rebuilt with KLG4 series heads (Keep the oval intakes) Colt Tri-Flow Supercharger cams. Is currently running and installed in a 93 GE 626 Hatch with a crap paint job (peeling) but has BC coilovers and upgraded end links and sway bars. Looking for close to the 2K mark. is currently registered and fully drivable. msg me or email cory at progressive networks dot com dot au Located in Bunbury WA
  2. End of an era. Due to front end damage Im now deciding to part out my 1995 Mazda 626 Deluxe Hatch rather than fix the radiator support bar. Someone with the time or skill could restore this easily enough but with a bigger family priorities have changed. Someof the items fitted: Digital Climate Control BC Coilovers Upgraded Mazda 6 Front Brakes Full Leather Interior. V6 Manual. Msg me crobson69 At gmail.com or phone me 0447 714 208
  3. added more photos for better clarification Here zoom in and see what you think
  4. bearing is smooth as with no evident wear. clutch dis-engages fully without issues and no slippage on the actual flywheel. The only thing different from this throwout bearing and the usual ones I use is the actual amount of surface area engaging the fingers. and one other point, there is no clutch chatter or noise during shifting whilst vehicle stationary or driving thats what is bizzare
  5. you cannot install it upside down. It is one piece and has claws that attach to the activating lever.... out of the hundreds of throwout bearings I have installed I yet haven't seen one that can be install upside down. Where are you getting your bearings from ?
  6. With many of those building engines that utilised the "RUROCKN RODS" and Diamond Racing Piston combos, what clutch did you ultimately choose to get your new found power to the ground. Myself I ended up with a SPEC Stage 5 with the Performance Pressure plate and the supplied thrust bearing, but after only three months of use I had to do a tear down to address an engine issue and found the below wear on my pressure plate fingers. And this the supplied thrust bearing from the kit they sent. I email SPEC but after a couple of emails back and forth they have now gone silent and not responded to the photos or questions I have asked. So For those with high horsepower builds please have a look at these photos and give me your opinions as to what caused this. Im glad my engine was torn down now. I would of hated to have been driving and finding no clutch at ll. More Detailed Pics HERE
  7. no, exact same block. only difference normally would have been the compression ratio but as my build was custom I already had the 9.7:1 so easy as. And for you reference here is a vid of the early testing of a wasted spark setup
  8. ARP head studs or any well made Stud has several advantages over stock head bolts but mostly are used in high HP engines. Standard head bolts are a stretch to yield design. The more you attempt to tension them the more of the force has to be applied into the torsion of the entire bolt, risking snapping and fatigue after multiple uses. A stud on the other hand is applying the torque directly to the clamping force of the materials. So in the case of a head you are able to use more clamping force with less metal fatigue against the mating surface of the block. This also can reduce the likelihood of the head warping under possible hot spots and allow the engine to handle far more HP before blowing the heads. Summit Video explanation A quick blurb with more detail found in a local magazine write up The original design scope was with the MS. With any four stroke engine you have 720 degrees of rotation for a complete cycle. If you are only firing from a crank trigger you have no way of knowing if the engine is on an intake or an exhaust cycle, so with only a crank trigger you can only do a wasted spark setup. However if you utilise a Crank and a Cam signal you now have in a sense a home signal which can be used to indicate your on a compression stroke. Hence you can now do full synchronous timing events and no longer need wasted spark setups. The MS was eventually scrapped as well and the whole system updated as mentioned in the last thread. I wanted something with more support and a clear upgrade path for future mods. Haltech offer easy enhancements and work closely with M&W Ignition systems. Ask any race car driver these days if they know what a MS unit is, then ask them if they know M&W CDI systems. Most likely they are more in use than MSD ignition systems on most new racepak's. As soon as I went down the G4 head path I automatically gained my cam trigger for the home sense circuit, so the Miata CAS was superfluous. plus id looked neater without it. The loom on the COP's was also custom made by Mike for me using high grade teflon coated wiring. with double shielding so no ignition spikes or radio interference. A few more pics.
  9. EGR is just a part of the anti-smog legislation that manufacturers had to comply to. Most people can tell you they have there vehicles running without the EGR and still pass emission tests without issues. For my part there was no way I wanted boosted gas from the plenum leaking past the EGR valve into the exhaust and definitely no way I wanted hot exhaust being recirculated into the cooler charged air after the air intake sensor. This would throw off the fuel calculations for the engine management as well as waste the effort into ceramic coating the intake manifold to reduce heat buildup/soak. So this was removed from the IM as were the VRIS butterflies and mount castings. Holes were welded and re-sanded before ceramic coating as part of the preparation process. this was my first attempt at porting a G4 Manifold. The one you see on the engine now is the second attempt. The second attempt also has the additional castings, mounting points and vris as well as all casting lines machined off
  10. After putting down 5k km's on the engine I noticed that I was having issues with heat and large amounts of blowby in the crankcase ventilation system. We have no definite answers at this time but I discovered the rings supplied at build time were not what I requested. The Engine shop simply installed them anyway and forgot to mention it to me. but basically the ring gaps are larger than they should be for a boosted engine and they are standard "high performance" rings not the stainless file to fit I had requested. At final destruct time the engine was running a Haltech Sport 2000 Engine management system paired with a M&W 16B CDI unit to fire the COP's in full sequential mode. The M&W CDI unit will shortly be replaced with a newer single wire unit but until the rebuild is completed it will be standing anyway. The Clutch is a SPEC stage 5 (yes i know , Overkill) but with the amount of $$$ spent it will probably remain so. Due to financial constraints this build/rebuild is now on hold. Im on a pension (forced) and had to invest the last $$$ i had in getting a daily driver organised for the transport of the wife and kids. This at least is now finished (except for a rebuild transmission) but is usable until such time as I can get my wife the care she needs and I can return to work. Current daily driver
  11. And the Discharge Piping was basically the same process as the exhaust. From the blower to the IC and from the IC to the IM with the BPV flange in between. And then. Then Ceramic coating and re-installation
  12. One important aspect I forgot to mention earlier. Obviously with boost you must be able to supply the fuel. All my vehicles I automatically upgrade the fuel pumps to Walbro 255's with new regulators. But of course you need injectors to be upgraded to supply as well. For my first build I opted to use Mazda RX7 Primary's at 550cc. at the increased fuel pressure of 43.5 psi you get a bit more. 564 CC not bad. Again going with the Royal theme (purple and Gold)
  13. Then onto the IC and discharge piping. Again more creativity here for mounting both the IC and relocating a power steering cooler as well. Front shot showing position of IC Showing clearance behind the bar after modifications to the front radiator support. (yes it will survive a front on collision without the front end collapsing) Power Steering Cooler in new mock up position, in some of the photos above you can see it under the IC but this left me no room for the blowers oil cooler. Front Stance with it installed.
  14. Having Already Purchased what I thought would be my last blower I'd ever need (Rotrex C30-94) I began the mockups for the Intake and exhaust pipe work. The ebay headers were nice but had limitations on the secondaries as well as the problem of turning the engine bay into a heat soak. My first though was a wrap solution but it looked ugly as and i was concerned about it trapping moisture. My final solution was to ceramic coat everything first to see if this would work. Tie up and spot welds in place Almost finished. Welding done. Now onto the ceramic coating. Purty ain't it ?
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