Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

JoMo

Members
  • Content Count

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About JoMo

  • Rank
    Newbie

Previous Fields

  • Car
    Array

Profile Information

  • Location
    Array
  1. Would that ignition module be the Champion CM418 or CM410 ? If so, can you please tell me how the Champion module's pins labelled "3", "7", "15" and "16" correspond to the GM module's pins labelled "W", "G", "B" and "C" ? Thanks.
  2. Is there any way to perform a test of the coil? (I don't want to spend money on a replacement if it's unnecessary).
  3. Hmmm...that's interesting. I tested my plugs by removing them, then reconnecting the cables, earthing them to the engine and then cranking the engine. Although I saw them all firing, they produced a yellow spark rather than a blue spark.
  4. Since you have spark and you did try starting fluid, then better check compression. Could be that the timing belt slipped and there is not enough compression to start the engine. OK, I'll buy a compression tester. But I wish I could resolve the problem of no CEL codes displaying at the diagnostic connector (does that indicate an issue with the ECU?)
  5. No, I'm not sure if ECU is receiving power - how can I test for that? When I put the engine in "diagnostic mode" and then place a test light probe on the STO pin (it's an Australian 626, so no CEL on dash), I don't see any illumination at all of the test light (i.e. no codes). Does that suggest a ECU power problem? I am seeing all the spark plugs firing and the voltage signals are arriving at the fuel injectors - can those things occur if there's no power to the ECU? Thanks
  6. I disconnected the fuel line that runs from the fuel pressure regulator back to the fuel tank. In its place I temporarily connected a short hose that was blocked at one end - this meant the fuel pressure regulator now couldn't release pressure from the fuel rail back to the fuel tank. I cranked the engine but it still wouldn't start. So this suggests that the fuel pressure regulator is not stuck open. I know that my fuel pump is pumping fuel to the fuel rail but maybe it's not supplying enough fuel pressure > fuel pressure test is next....
  7. It's possible your ignition switch is shot, only running the fuel pump in the "START" position. No, because the fuel pump is heard to operate for one second when the key is returned to the "ON" position from the "START" position (i.e. after cranking). Yet the fuel pump is not heard to ooerate when the key is first turned to "ON" prior to attempting to crank the engine.
  8. Now this is weird: when I first insert the key and turn it to ON, I do not hear the fuel pump operate for a few seconds like it's supposed to. I then attempt to start the engine - it cranks but does not start. But I've just noticed that immediately after this cranking stops, the fuel pump is heard to operate for about one second.
  9. I loosened the banjo bolt and cranked the engine - there is fuel there (although I guess now I have to check if the fuel pressure is too high or too low).
  10. Ah-hah! Thanks Snailman, you've cleared-up something that's been frustrating me for weeks.
  11. Thanks NickR, but that info related to a 98 model; mine is a 94. I bought a Haynes workshop manual and identified the fuel pump relay by the colour of the wires. On 93-95 V6s, the fuel pump relay is called the "Circuit" relay (not the "EGI" relay).
  12. I found the fuel pump relay and tested it > it's fine.
  13. Thanks hominid7, I can't see how the fuel pump relay is implicated, because the pump does run when I jumper the FP and GND pins on the diagnostic connector (I assume the relay is required when the pump is forced-on via this method?) Can you please tell me which relay in the fusebox controls the fuel pump?
  14. Hi, My Australian 94 626 V6 cranks but won't start. It was like that for 24 hours and then suddenly I could easily start it over the course of the next two days. After that two-day period it again would crank but not start and I haven't been able to start it since. I put the engine in dignostic mode by jumping pins TEN and GND on the diagnostic connector, but the CEL does not illuminate. I removed a spark plug from the engine, reconnected the spark plug lead, earthed it to the engine and cranked the engine > I saw it spark. When I turn the ignition to ON, I do not hear the fuel pump come on for a few seconds. So I jumped pins FP and GND and then heard the fuel pump continuously operate. However, the car still would crank but not start. Any suggestions for the next step? Thanks.
  15. I had a similar problem except I could engage second, fourth and reverse gears but not first, third and fifth. The next day the plate under the gearshift tore due to metal fatigue and I lost the lot. I suspect this was caused by stress on the gear linkage due to a collapsed engine mount. So the gear linkage certainly bears investigation....
×
×
  • Create New...