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atomgonuclear

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About atomgonuclear

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Previous Fields

  • Car
    97' V6 Mazda 626

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    http://

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  • Location
    New Jersey
  • Interests
    Cars<br />Car Audio<br />97' Mazda V6 626<br />LED Lights
  1. Up for sale is a 1994-1997 Mazda 626 transmission. It works great and only has about 45k miles on it. I had it in my Mazda which I parted out and scrapped about a year ago. I need the space in my garage so if it doesn't go quick it's going to the scrap yard, today would be nice. I'm only askin $50. P.S. This transmission is the Jap version, it is identical to the American version and bolts up bolt for bolt, but the parts are higher quality since it is mfg. by Mazda and not Ford. My e-mail is fuelbrain@hotmail.com My telephone is 856-232-0503, feel free to call anytime, my name is Donald
  2. atomgonuclear

    Bullet Proofing A Kl?

    I'm going to give the best answer on this thread(possibly this whole forum).... If you have to ask this kind of extremely vague question, then you probably have no business building a high powered vehicle... either do half of the people on this thread. So far like half of the posts start with the words "I've heard". The guy asked for people who actually know what their talking about(so when a post starts with that, just skip right over it or you will only become less educated). You dont need to rip parts out of a chevy 350 and hope that it will fit your mazda(it wont), eyeballing it will not work, you'll need to mic out everything, this would be a disaster without proper training. This topic has been discussed hundreds of times. Here and on probetalk forums(in a lot of detail). When you finally do decide... NA or boost, you are then going to have to buy tons of tools, sets of micrometers (which alone run thousands), and find a good machine shop. Any reputable company can make a set of rods, cams, or pistons for any car(Pauter, Colt Cams, Weisco). So, you dont have to worry about where to "get" parts, you have them made. Building a high powered car is not something you do on a weekend in your garage, its a project that would take most people months(waiting on machined parts etc.). For these motors, there is not simply parts you buy off a shelf, you have to call individual companies and barter with them, giving specific numbers and tolorances. You'll then have to buy engine management system(most likely megasquirt) and find a good dyno and tune. In the meantime, you'll be walking to work, and when you can't figure out what to do next you'll be waiting for the next post on mazda626.net. It is one thing to ask for help fixing something in a car, but howto build a whole entire car through what basically is text messages, is another. I probably sounded like an ass posting this, and I don't want to completely discourage you, but I think you have a LOT more reading to do before you attempt this kind of project, and I'm not specifically targeting you, I just hate seeing this post 10,000 times by people with less than 50 posts. So I am challenging you, but this is only 1 out of 1000 challenges you will have if you attempt this project, and who knows, sometimes negative reinforcement only drives people harder. So goodluck, I hope you are prepared for the challenge. Just remember If you can't change your airfilter, then you really don't know howto change your air pressure. Speaking of which, if you do decide to build your car..... go with boost its 10x easier + cheaper. You can safely get about 5 or 6 lbs out of these cars with no modifications except intake + exhaust. In NA you need new everything. Best build bang for buck: KLDE block bored out 0.2 over Weisco 8.5:1 pistons, maybe a little higher Interprep Dual Valvesprings (spring inside spring) Pauter Rods Colt Cam Regrind Ball Bearing Garrett Turbo 57 trim Megasquirt' Various Guages etc etc. and most importantly the mother of all...... PAR gears
  3. Turnersville, NJ I have a used JDM auto v6 transmission for $100 I scrapped my mazda and I am parting out the motor I need to get rid of it fast works great and shifts STRONG, it's a direct bolt up for the 93-97. I had it in my 97 mazda I probably will not ship the trans it is huge
  4. atomgonuclear

    5 Speed Shift Action.

    synchromesh trans fluid by GM get it, it's the best synthetic gear oil for our cars and it's synchro safe for brass. I pulled out some ugly gear fluid wheN I first got my car and it was shiftin really rough, put on some synchromesh and I never miss gears anymore and it glides like butter check your linkage too
  5. atomgonuclear

    Klze.. Ecu Options??

    u all heard this and heard that............ no, do not post a reply if you "heard" anything..... get the probinator chip or get the J spec ECU. Top end HP doesnt mean didly squat when it comes to the differences in the CPU's, it's all about the VRIS open and close times. You can get 6 hp gain on a cold day vs a warm day. With the US spec ecu you will get worse accel in the 4-6k range and not be able to get the full amount of tq and hp. These numbers are posted all over probetalk.com search for them if you must. J spec is the way to go for KLZE (or the chip)
  6. atomgonuclear

    'how To Be A Ricer'

    Im not talking about the eclipse ECU im talking about the probe/626/mx6 ecu. and the other guy did raise a good point that a new CAI does make it sound better, I wasn't attacking you im sorry if I was so nasty. but IN RESPONSE TO BRANDO 5185 HERE IS EXACTLY WHY YOUR A RICER Like I said for the price of a tetrix cable for the time and/or effore you could buy a megasquirt. You still are a ricer to me cause you said "I gained 10 hp just by remapping my stock ECU". Uhhhhh no you didn't gain 10 hp lol, that statement is about as ricer as it gets.. nobody is going to believe you actually paid to redyno your car and got a 10 hp change. Somebody else probably posted on that website "I got a 10 hp change when I remapped my stock GT ECU". You just entirely made that number up for your car. You make up lies and expect us to believe you actually had your car dyno'ed at 10 hp difference at your last auto show. Just removing your high restricting factory airbox alone can give you 10 hp, that number sucks, you now go .07 second faster in the quarter mile, good job. Thats what makes you a ricer, and the best part is you just got CAUGHT IN THE ACT. OWNEDDDD BITCH PS. I Change my definition of a real tuner now to "A person who remaps and re-tunes their car to differ from factory settings in order for specific modifications to work in an efficient manner, as long as the net gain is more than 11 H.P." Sorry dude, you are still 1 HP short of being called a true tuner. But hey, look at the bright side, I bet if you smooth out those ugly lines on the side of your girly car it'll give you that 1 hp more to make you a true tuner(becaust we all know, new eclipses are for girls only. the old ones are cool). I officially then, and only then, give you permission to slap a "K&N Inside" sticker on your window at a jagged angle. goodluck
  7. atomgonuclear

    Engine Failure

    Lets be honest here........ "bad engineering" had nothing to do with the failure of your mazda. I do not know what you expect by posting here, no offense, but there is no miracle answer here, there is no bitumen, there is no engineering problems. You said it yourself that you didn't change your oil religiously or anything(thats a nice way of saying, you dont change your oil much at all). Simply put, these cars last well over 200k and most will have little to no problems if properly taken care of, there is not too many freak things which cause entire engines to instantly seize, there is many warning signs. Most engines never entirely seize. It's usually only a few cylinders at most, if not only 1. also, did you check it for hydrolocking? Did you actually remove the heads and look for this so called "bitumen"? If you can remove the heads I suspect that you would be more than capable of fixing a seized engine(if its not warped out), just resleave the cylinders and get new rings and you would probably be fine your already only 1 step away from fixing the problem. Anywho, I am not usually one to attack, but for being a first post it was very broad question and filled with random BS in a bad effort to put the blame off of yourself. sorry
  8. atomgonuclear

    New Body Kit ?

    wow that is sharp as hell..... similar to the automoderna, if it had the roof wing that would really complete it..... I dont like the bottom of the back tho its just a big hole but still it is sharp
  9. atomgonuclear

    Love The New Skin

    After reading this site for an hour or so, I noticed that the dark colors were A LOT easier on the eyes and I would just like to say that it is a very good change
  10. atomgonuclear

    'how To Be A Ricer'

    hahahhaa I thought that list was so true.... cold air intake = ricer bodykits on stock car = ricer new headers = ricer new muffler = ricer jap symbols on any car(very few exceptions) = ricer NOS stickers = ricer every single body kit except automoderna made for the 626 = ricer (and very ugly) I know I'll take some flaming from you CAI people out there but seriously.... if you think that buying a 30 dollar ebay air filter makes your car the faster then your a ricer (same thing for headers) Brando5185 yeah right buddy.... first of all goodluck reflashing your stock ECU, oh yeah and good luck decifering how the fuel tables are even mapped(its not your average HEX), it has been done on very very very few probe engines (same as the mazda) but its funny how u say your car just needs a tune, because somehow your stock ECU magically became out of tune one day and it rewrote itself new code. Your car obviously has other problems if it is running rich. I could do this with a tetrix cable and blah blah, you probably never have yet, which makes you a ricer..... and no the eclipse map has nothing to do with the mazda whatsoever what are you even talking about........... thats like saying I could have NOS on my car if I had a nos cable and the button to shoot it if I have the base map of my weed wacker.(PS the stock ECU sucks anyway why retune it when the textrix cable cost just as much as a megasquirt) ^^Classic some people have their definition of a ricer, but mine is A real Tuner is somebody who buys an aftermarket ECU (or reprograms the stock) and installs it on their own and rewires their entire car and programs every aspect of it. BOTTOM LINE.... if you dont TUNE your car, then you are a RICER. Anybody can slap on a CAI and some headers and put in a new sparkplug....... congradulations you are just as normal as any other RICER that owns the same car. I know its the harsh reality, but if your mad while reading this, then im sorry to say, you are a _________ (fill in the blank).
  11. atomgonuclear

    Vibration On Acceleration

    The ONLY PROBLEMS that cause a car to vibrate at highway speeds is the wheels and/or the steering rack. Buy 4 brand new tires and get them BALANCED, just moving the tires around to a different axle is going to do nothing whatsoever. If the wheels are only a few grams off then your going to have major vibration problems. Also, check to see if you have wheel weights, sometimes people scrape the curb with their wheels and they fly off or just fly off for no reason whatsoever. I had serious vibration problems when I first bought my mazda and all I had to do was buy 4 new tires and get them balanced and have never had a problem since, it runs really smooth now. Also, if somebody owned the car before you, make shure they didnt overload the tires with that crappy "Green Gue" which helps to close up tires if they get holes in them, it is notorious for making stuff vibrate off your dashboard at highway speeds. that would also explain why on accelerating because it all runs to one side of the tire from inertia The only other possibility is if the steering rack has a gap in one of the teeth it can vibrate because the force on the tires makes them shift back and forth (this is very rare). You can find out by turning the steering wheel while you accelerate and if you dont get vibrating that is because your wheels are locking in another grove and you have a bad rack. You should tell the dealer to shove it, an axle will NOT cause a front wheel drive car to vibrate, think about it, it is a CV joint and it can move in 2 directions, so it self balances. Unless the CV joint locks together and doesnt bend it causes it to lopside and cause vibration but that only happens on super old rusty axles (and it will usually pull itself out of the socket before it will vibrate) Its probably not the bearings because you can physically hear and feel them grinding if they are bad by simply rotating the axles and when they go bad they SHRED pretty fast and you would know. I really hope this helps but I can almost guarantee its one of those two problems
  12. atomgonuclear

    So I Think My Starter Finally Died...

    yup probably a loose bad main ground and it went through the smaller wire and pftttt fried it, that makes sense, since when a starter goes the coils melt together and it just makes one big short, but in your case it was just a slow cranking which probably meant some resistance in the ground
  13. atomgonuclear

    Po171 Bank 1 Too Lean

    yeah get a new TB gasket cost about 10 bucks at a mazda dealer.......... you should actually change this gasket any time you ever remove the TB unless its fairly new + they tear very easy and if you dont have it you can def. count on a vaccume leak. (which would cause the lean measurement) the misfire is probably just an extra code thrown in since the lean mixture throws the computer off because it is running rough
  14. atomgonuclear

    Egr Value Unit Info Needed 97 2.5l

    DO NOT pay 900 dollars for that. Just lookup howto clean it out, it is no problem at all and its pretty much impossible for a solenoid to go back (unless you overcurrent it) but that wont happen. Its prolly just mucked up inside. I did mine in 1 spare day and it was a great learning experience + worth saving $900
  15. atomgonuclear

    I Think I'm Going In Circles.

    Very likely the misfiring is causing all of the Above problems. Get the plugs and wires checked, if its not them check the rotor in the disty make shure its fresh and clean and the disty has no cracks. You should be back to normal again without any misfires. Clear out the ECU and the errors will probably not come back
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