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spannercrab last won the day on August 30 2015

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  1. The 2.0L FS does not have a tensioner per se - the alternator IS the tensioner. Do you know why you were told you need on of these?
  2. Make sure EVERYTHING is disconnected ... it's easy to forget and surprising how much tensile strength things like vacuum hoses and earth leads have I would leave the tranny on ... not sure about the 94' but later models have enough clearance to take everything out without removing the tranny - you will need to drain the oil though (from tranny & engine)
  3. I had the same thing on my 626 - when I removed the alternator I found that the thread had galled (the old dissimilar metals problem) - the fix is relatively simple, although it does involve removing the alternator. Just run an M10 Tap through the thread of the alternator where the pivot bolt screws in. Done!
  4. Just a bit of an update - I bought some Ceramic Bendix "General Purpose" pads at a brake specialist place and while I was there I asked about the phase out of asbestos. Turns out that asbestos was only phased out in Aus only a couple of years ago. So it's likely that the original pads on the vehicle were asbestos based. I recall some years ago purchasing a set of "asbestos free" Bendix metallic pads for $130.00AU (before phase-out was mandatory) for a performance vehicle (the Australian equivalent to a Pontiac GTO - 5.7L GM V8), which lasted less than 10,000mi - they ended up tearing the friction material from the backing pad. I then purchased some "cheap" ($20.00) pads - which were asbestos based - these lasted for many 10's of 1000's more and braking performance was much, much better than the more expensive "asbestos free" pads. So I think the insulative ability of asbestos is really the key here. I hope that a suitable, non-carcinogenic subsitute is found in the future.
  5. Thanks again for the reply JohnC Wear life is definately a factor in choosing brake pads for me, as is is stopping power & fade resistance. Anti-dust would be nice, but not a big deal. Only if the wear properties affect performance of the brakes does it then become a factor. As long as they conform to OEM specification, do not fade readily and I have the capability to "lock em up" on demand, as far as I'm concerned, then the pads are doing their job. The argument given to me by Bendix (& various other brake suppliers) is: - You don't want a pad compound that is too harsh otherwise you will need to replace your rotors all the time. My argument is a simple matter of economics: One set of front pads costs AU$70.00 (or thereabouts) New Rotors cost AU$100 for the pair Rotor remachine costs $50 (recommended by the manufacturer at each change of pads) My OEM pads lasted 250,000km - at which time I had to change the rotors also because they were under minimum thickness - total cost - $170.00 These "new" pads which don't cause as much rotor wear only last 40,000km - so that's 6 times less - but the purported advantage is that the rotors "don't wear as much". 6 x $70.00 (pads) + 6 x $50 (remachine) = $720.00 So at the end of the day, despite the argument given by the pad manufacturer, I am actually 6 times worse off because of their "low wear rate" pads ... Also these same manufacturers and suppliers told me that it was the asbestos in the old pads (even though mine is a 98 model) that let me get 250,000km out of them ... So I'm hoping to find whatever these OEM pads were made of and go back to them. 250,000km between brake pad changes is just fine with me
  6. Thanks, John I was looking on AutoAnything.com today and they suggest that Ceramic pads are supplied OEM - does anyone know if this is true? Do ceramic pads have an asbestos component to them? Thanks
  7. Hi All, I need to replace the brake pads in my '98 626, here in Aus only non-asbestos brake pads available (apparently). My original factory (+asbestos) pads were going strong for 150,000mi - which is great performance, the new ones, unfortunately are only getting 20,000mi or so .... which is comparatively abysmal. So ... just after some experiences with brake pads in terms of wear life / braking performance. Has anyone come across pads which can match (or come close to) their asbestos counterparts? Cheers
  8. This is kinda the right thread, I think .... '98 626 FS3 - Just ticked over 220,000mi .... The rear brake pads have JUST worn out and need changing (from factory ) ...
  9. Could be valve stem seals - oil leaking seeping through the stems while sitting idle, then burning on startup.
  10. Can you describe the noise a bit more? Does it happen under load / acceleration or when free revving to 2krpm?
  11. I made the same mistake (didn't mark cams when separating sproket) This is one more piece of info which is sadly lacking from the Haynes manual - your $20 Haynes manual will NOT tell you the cam / sproket alignments. The workshop manual does tell you: The cams themselves are marked with an "I" and an "E" to designate which cam goes on which side.
  12. Changing the oil would be the last thing to do: it's expensive and difficult The problem is more likely to be caused by a loose / worn / cracked belt. Re-tension the belt first, check the belt for wear / cracks and replace if neccessary. It's also possible that it could be the alternator belt, as turning on the a/c increases load on the charging system - so check that also.
  13. re: fuel filter spraying fuel - disconnect the fuel pump relay, start the engine until it dies ... then crank it over another 10 seconds for good measure. This relieves residual fuel pressure in the lines - no spraying fuel everywhere!
  14. Might just be a simple as a missing vacuum hose? I had the same thing when I rebuilt the FS - forgot to connect the brake booster hose ...
  15. Yeah ... water pumps are fairly common, however I have been told: A water pump relies on the coolant as a lubricant / seal conditioner - if you change it at the recommended intervals, the chances of your pump going decrease significantly. Ditto with flush / change of cooling system - a caustic flushing agent gets rid of all the crud (rust / dirt) in the system and stops it from circulating around and damaging water pump seals. A word of caution on "flushing" - A cooling system can be "self sealing" to an extent - the caustic flush can clean out the crud which is effectivly plugging up your system and helping it to seal, so don't be surprised to find that the rust in the system is holding your radiator / hoses / water pump together ... My last pump had 200,000mi on it and was still going strong .... I changed the coolant every 100,000mi or so ...
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