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hanover_fisk last won the day on September 27 2015

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  1. I just did the timing belt, water pump, aux belts, and valve clearance check, cooling system flush, thermostat, hoses, clutch master cylinder, bleed clutch system, air filter, and pcv valve, myself at 140K. 60K is recommended but I have been going 70K. The old belt looked fine. The rollers, pulleys, and tensioner looked good for at least another 70K. About 10 hours for all of this with basic tools. Belt tensioner is hard to compress for reinstallation without a vice. I used a hydraulic jack and compressed it against the underside of the car so I could get the temporary retaining pin in it. It is my understanding that the 2.5 V6 is a zero interference design. That means if the belt fails for any reason the piston will hit the valves and total the engine. This is common on high performance high compression engines. So if in doubt I would replace it. I bought this car new and am now handing it down to my daughter so am going through everything. Been a great car, have had to replace some stuff, but I have never had to take it in for anything. I also checked the valve clearance at this time since if they need adjustment you have to pull the cams if you don't have the special factory tool. I have never had to adjust them but they are near the upper limit. I have run synthetic oil since new so this may explain it. Inside of the engine soooo clean after 140K. I love synthetic oil, well worth the cost. Recently ran a compression test and all are in the green but down from new. Oil squirt test shows most of the loss to be due to the rings not valves. Had a major head scratcher once with the front brakes dragging when hot (around 120K). Replaced calipers, rotors, pads. Turned out to be the master cylinder. The only thing I hear being consistently bad on these cars is the crappy ford automatic transmissions. I love manuals so I dodged that bullet. 99 626ES 5 speed red with tan leather interior
  2. Yes, I would like to check the fuel pump relay but I can't figure out which one it is. I think I swapped it with a different relay already but can't be sure at this point. As I said earlier there are a bunch of them under the engine compartment fuse cover but also three hanging exposed on the side of the fuse box. I haven't messed with these yet. Can someone tell me where to find the diagnostic scope connection under the hood?? There is a test that I susposedly can run from it.
  3. I have a 99 626ES V6 5speed and I think I have a fuel pump problem. Was driving the car and it just quit. I have spark and compression, and runs on starting fluid. I pulled a hose off the fuel rail and am not getting anything. I have listened for fuel pump noises from the tank but can't hear any, don't recall ever hearing any. I have a crummy Haynes manual and it gives a proceedure to test the fuel pump but since it covers so many years/models it is almost useless. I have looked for a fuse and under the hood I found one that says "Inj" and is not blown. I believe there is a relay also and can't find anything to tell me where to find it. There are a bunch of them with the fuses under the hood (2 types) and I switched the positions of all of them (same part numbers) but no change. My manual says I'm supposed to jump two connectors in the plug for the diagnostics as part of the test but can't find it. I have looked all over the engine compartment and under the dash but am not finding it. The dealer is telling me $600 - 800 to in a new fuel pump. If I can pin point the problem I am sure I can replace it. Can anyone help me?
  4. No CEL light. And this is not a gear lash issue. It is a delay in engine responce. If If the wheels chirp when shifting the engine is obviously ahead of the transmission speed when the clutch is let out. It is after this moment that nothing happens causing an instant of engine braking before the engine wakes back up. Yes there is gear lash at this point since the engine was momentarily braking but the point is it shouldn't have been since the throtle is on the floor.
  5. I have a 99 626ES with a manual 5 speed. When I shift there is a hesitation that causes a jerk. It is not noticable at low rpms but if you are getting on it with 6500 rpm fast shifts it's in your face. The wheels will do an acceleration chirp then a moment of decel and then the engine kicks in with a lurch as the drive train lash is taken up. It is only maybe 0.5 - 1 second. You can get the same effect with out shifting by reving it up and letting off and then quickly stabbing it. It has done this since it was new and now has 120K. I bitched to the dealer but they claimed it was normal even though they experienced what I was complaining about. They said I could pay to hook it up to the scope but it wouldn't likely find anything. I didn't buy this but didn't do anything about it. Seems like a fuel injection control problem (MAP sensor?) but it hasn't changed over the cars life. Any ideas?
  6. I'm having brake problems with my 99 626ES 5 speed. At 120,000 miles the brakes were shot especially the front right wheel. It was dragging intermittently and pulsating when it got hot from dragging. So I order up a nice set of cross drilled and slotted rotors and Akebono ceramic brake pads. The caliper on the front right wouldn't press back it so I figured it was seized and bought a new one, not rebuilt, sliders were good and I used a special slider grease. Also did a bunch of other maintenance at the time like, centerforce clutch, new axles, and front struts. Sucked all of the old brake fluid out of the reservoir and filled with Valvoline DOT4 fluid. Everything seemed to have gone very well for a short while then the front right wheel starts intermittently dragging again as before! I take a look at the caliper and the piston won't push in again until the bleeder is opened. Advice from various sources recommends replacing the brake line on that caliper so I do so. No change and it doesn't want to bleed. With a vacuum bleeder and pumping the pedal fluid won't come. Had to start the car and use the brake booster to get it to grudgingly bleed. When the car is cold the pedal is soft. As it heats up the pedal gets hard, high, and very sensitive. The brake drag can get so bad that you can't maintain speed and a nasty vibration builds up. Then over 15 - 30 seconds it will rapidly diminish and disappear with out having touched the brakes. Funny thing is I would expect the car to pull to the left when this is going on but it doesn't. The car brakes straight without pulling and the ABS seems to be working normally. There obviously is something upstream that is check valving me and causing pressure to build up to that wheel. I plan on inducing the condition repeatedly and working up steam cracking fittings to relieve the pressure so the wheel will turn free. I am wondering if any one has heard of a proportioning valve, ABS, or master cylinder doing anything like this? I have also seen a recall for the brake reservoir cap but no explanation why. Any ideas?
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