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Erick

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About Erick

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  1. FYI, I just finished the rear brake pad replacement on a 1997 626ES. The caliper piston is retracted with a small (5mm?) allen wrench that is located on the other side of the caliper, behind the caliper piston. HOWEVER, there is a 15 mm bolt that covers the access to the allen screw. You need to remove the bolt to access the allen screw. Best of luck to all. Erick
  2. 1997 Mazda 626ES Regarding the P0400 OBD-II Code (Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction).... I was told by the dealer service department that this code is corrected by cleaning the exhaust gas recirculation and intake sytem. Apparently they dissasemble the EGR and intake system to do so. Has anyone ever heard of this? Thanks! Erick
  3. Hi, Just had the OBD-II codes read on my 1997 626ES. It came up with "P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction". My question is: Does this mean that all I need to do is replace the EGR valve and all will be well again? Is it possible for something else to be causing this fault code (a sensor, switch, etc.)? Has anyone replaced the EGR valve on this car? Easy? DIY instructions somewhere? Thanks in advance!!! Erick
  4. Hi, I have a 1997 626 ES that just had the check engine light come on. Rather than pay someone to read the codes, I thought that there might be a way to read them myself. The archives don't have anything. Is it possible to read these OBD-II codes, or do you need a special code reader? How much do shops typically charge to read the codes? Thanks very much in advance. Erick
  5. Update: I found the problem! Actually, it was very simple and I should have looked more closely the first time through. It turns out that the plug connector to the right headlight wasn't snap-connected all the way. I clicked it in, and it obviously works like a champ. Imagine that. Sorry for the false alarm question - I should have looked more closely. Erick
  6. I believe that you have to have a bearing puller and/or press to be able to install the wheel bearings. Erick
  7. A VERY strange problem.... It appears that the right-side headlight AND turn signal can't seem to make up their mind whether to work or not work. The bulbs are good, but the typical routine seems to be that when the car is first started up (cold), both the headlight and turn signal work fine. However, at some point - maybe 20 minutes after driving the car - both the right side turn signal and headlight stop working. It is unpredictable, but invariably the next time the car is restarted from cold, the lights both work fine!?!? What's going on here???? Thanks. Erick
  8. Well, I race, and generally DO know what I'm talking about. For a race application, the holes CAN allow gasses that are generated from the brake pads to escape more easily. They CAN also allow the rotors to cool more efficiently in a track-type situation where braking temperatures are extreme and brake cooling is critical. For street use, this will have virtually NO bearing on braking performance. Holes in the rotors will NOT allow you stop faster, and if you think they do, it is most likely your imagination. In addition, they are more expensive and CAN be prone to cracking - even brembos. In fact, if you've ever been to a race, you'll notice that CART cars do NOT use drilled rotors. Instead, they use "slotted" rotors, which have the same benefits as "drilled" rotors without the problem of cracking. But again, the benefits are reserved for track conditions and won't be noticed on the street. Look, I'm not hear to start a war about braking technology, but for street use, drilled brakes are a waste of money. If money is no object, go for it. Otherwise, I'd save my money and put it somewhere else. Just my opinion of course. Erick
  9. I'm sorry, but could you explain once again what problem turned out to be? A bearing or bearing spike???? -_- I don't know what that is, but I have EXACTLY the same problem as you and would like to know if it is the same problem. I just figured it was a wheel bearing, but I've never heard wheel bearings go "clunk, clunk, clunk, clunk" before. Thanks. Erick
  10. Unless you are racing your 626, drilled rotor are overkill and are for aesthetics only. You'll never know the difference between drilled and standard rotors. BUT... if you are thinking about drilled rotors, make sure they aren't really "drilled", but rather "cast" holes. Drilled holes are found only on cheap rotors, or Brembo imposters. They crack very easily. Good luck. Erick
  11. Let me get this straight.... he said "if you changed it too frequently, it would eventually kill your transmission"? That is hilarious. I don't know where he heard that, but I wouldn't take his advice on this issue and probably most others. If you don't know when it was last changed, give yourself some cheap peace of mind and get the fluid replaced. And you might want to replace your mechanic too, while you're at it. Good luck. Erick
  12. Which PBR pads do you have.... the "deluxe" or the "metal masters"? Thanks! Erick
  13. Hi, I'm in the process of getting new brake pads for the 1997 626 ES V6, and was wondering if anyone had any opinions about OEM pads. I have looked on the "alloemparts" website, and they have the following types/brands: Brake Pad Set Deluxe PBR $37.87 Brake Pad Set Pro-ACT Cer. Japan $77.56 Brake Pad Set Metal Master PBR $45.82 Brake Pad Set Advantex $43.00 Brake Pad Set Nippon $28.01 Brake Pad Set ACT-Ceramic Japan $49.78 Unfortunately, I don't know these brands very well, so any advice would be helpful. Thanks! Erick
  14. Hi, It appears that the front left wheel bearing on my 1997 Mazda 626 ES V6 has bit the big one - meaning I can hear it pretty well. I would like to replace it myself, if possible, but I understand that there are some cars with pressed-in wheel bearings that are better left to a professional. Does anyone know if the do-it-yourselfer can tackle this project? Are there Do-it-yourself (DIY) instructions available anywhere on the internet? Thanks! Erick
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