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MazRedMan

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Everything posted by MazRedMan

  1. It seems like the biggest problem is the 'grounding' (arcing). Need to make sure all ground points are clean, free of rust, and all ground wires are connected...starting with battery negative cable to both motor / tranny and car body. Also important ground point under dash (interior)....ground screw can fall out over time. Water in engine bay will not be good especially if having a loose ground wire somewhere. Make sure all is dry under the hood. At night (in the dark), turn on car and look under hood to see if any other spot is 'arcing' (sparking). Poor ground will cause electrical components to not operate properly. Good luck!
  2. Well, it was going to happen sooner or later, my 98 LX 4cyl auto rebuilt CD4E died. Gone bye bye. (The kids over-worked it. ) Decided not worth repairing... again. Lasted almost 9 years after rebuilt (mileage at 93,000 and now at 172,000 miles). Symptoms were high pitch noise from tranny when rpms increased and gears slip/skipped. ATX fluid level fine, pink color and no burnt smell. No CEL or codes??. Then stopped altogether. Shift lever will shift into positions but...no Drive, 1 or 2, or Reverse. Tried replacing Neutral Safety Switch but still no response. Motor runs fine, idles at 750 rpms, but no 'movement' from tranny. May part it out or sell 'as is' or junk yard ??? Sad to see it go Note: Cost me $2300.00 back in 2004 at 93,000 miles for rebuilt (..and two year guarantee). Today, don't really need extra car and spending $$$ into '98 model is not practical for me.
  3. 87 octane should be fine for our cars, however, if you can afford the extra $$ for a higher octane then go for it. This just means that our cars require us to be on top of the maintenance of the fuel and EGR system. Helping our cars to run as fuel efficiently as possible is important. Tune-up! Also, fix any vacuum leaks. I use 87 most of the time but every once and a while I will added either STP gas treatment or Seafoam (1/3 can) treatment to my tank just to help it along. And if I have an extra $5 or $6 at the gas pump, I'll opt for the higher octane....only a half of tank though :)
  4. This should help.....(the filter can not be replaced without dropping the tranny on 98-02 US models). http://mazda626.net/topic/42243-transmission-pan-gasket-cd4e-auto-98lx-4cyl-replaced/
  5. The fact that your car still is able to start indicates that the starting components are still operational....ie. spark, fuel. So,.. 1) a better spark plug like the NGK Platinum #7090 (no gappping) will help. 2) Check and clean the battery terminals especially the neg. ground (..and clean ground points on car). 3) Check/clean/replace the air filter. 4) Replace fuel filter. 5) Clean/replace PCV valve (..as suggested earlier) All of the above was use to be considered a 'minor' tune-up (...back in the old days before electronic fuel injection) After the car reaches operating temperture, what is your idle speed...rpms? Could have an air leak somewhere...vacuum leak? And since you're doing some maintence then clean your IAC valve and MAF sensor (clean carefully, do search for these procedures). Good luck!
  6. All the 'new' parts you added/changed should only help your car. Try this: 1) First warm your car to normal operating temperature. 2) Make sure all 'loads' are turned off....ie.. heater, radio, a/c, interior fan (blower), lights, etc. 3) Now there is an hexagon 'screw' at the end of the IAC valve, slowly adjust right (or left) 1/4 turns to see if you can get your car to idle properly (650-700 rpms). Because your cars 'dies' when you unplug the electrical connecntion to the IAC valve then this shows that your valve is still operational and maybe you can make the idle adjustment. Also, I would recommend the NGK plugs where the gap does not need to be adjusted....i think its' part #7090 Platinium plugs. Lastly, try adding extra negative ground wire(s) to your system...this can only help your car. Good luck!
  7. A fast blinking bulb also indicates a bad or improperly ground system/wire. If your car was in a accident then check the repaired area or wiring. Good luck!
  8. You may want to check to see if any of the vacuum line(s) have become disconnected from the intake manifold. Make sure motor is cooled to touch before you check the tight area. Also, if you do need to replace gasket of intake then you may want to take the time to clean out your EGR unit as well. Good luck!
  9. If your car is a US version 626 (98-01) then the cable is located on the transmission itself and not the TRS. This maybe helpful:
  10. My first suggestion is to clean your battery posts, especially the negative post and ground points, and consider adding additional ground wire(s) to your electricial system (search HowTo ). This should help your electrical system. After your car is warmed up and all electrical loads are turned off, unplug the electrical connection to the IAC valve. Your car should first idle at 700 rpms (normally 650-750) then it should drop and maybe stall out. This will show that your IAC valve is operating ....maybe not as it should but still working?? Clean the IAC valve. Note: Having your battery disconnected for so long may have reset the computer (erased memorized operating settings). You will have to drive the car around in order to get the car to run propertly again...or as best as it was running before the motor mounts was replaced?? If you haven't done any maintenance (minor tune-up) then you should do so. Good luck!
  11. Dj may be right but I always check the basics....clean the IAC valve ( and other related operational parts, ie air filter, pcv, spark plugs, and MAF) first before assuming the more involved and costly paths. A well maintained vehicle will go a long way when trying to 'trouble-shoot' a problem. Good luck!
  12. What's a TCM? ..(Ok, my bad, didn't remember the title of your post..'Transmission Control Module'.) What makes you think your problem is the TCM (?). Did you get a code pointing you to this? It seems like a basic tune-up might get the job done ..especially if it hasn't been done in a while: 1)clean/replace spark plugs (recommend NGK #7090 BKR5EGP) 2)clean/replace air filter 3)clean/replace pcv 4)clean IAC valve 5)clean MAF Good luck!
  13. Keep in mind that DJ's tranny is a 95 Ford CD4E /(MazdaLA4A-EL) I4 with the side tranny pan...not under the transmission and no replaceable filter inside pan. I don't know for sure, but Roritor's is a 01 Ford 4F27E (?)/(Mazda FN4A-EL) I4 and has the pan under the tranny with replaceable filter...and non-US (driver side opposite of US models). (Also, I'm not sure but the Ford CD4E V6 have their's under the tranny with replaceable filter???) So, the only way to 'Drain and Fill' ATF on the I4 CD4E/LA4A-EL is to use the bottom drain plug, then refill through the dip-stick/filler tube.
  14. Looking at your pic of your trans range sensor, I can't help but to notice how dirty your tranny is. My tranny was almost as dirty before I eventually replaced the trans pan gasket (..side pan, no filter). Reviewing your post again, your initial problem has to do with the transmission acting up or 'revving' as you say. Explain more clearly what it is doing that tells you something is 'wrong'...(CEL on? Codes?). 'Revving' is usually referred to what an motor/engine does rather than a transmission?? My point about the dirty tranny is that your 'dirt' spillage may be from your tranny over heating and venting the ATF from the top of the side pan. If this is the case, then your problem with your tranny is internal parts over heating and eventually failing. This would cause gears/shifting problems. So check the level of ATF and the condition of the fluid....should be reddish pink and not smell 'burnt'. Maintanence(sp/) of your car on a regular basis is important...it helps in troubleshooting a problem. If its been a whole before year before you have looked at or cleaned the key elements (spark plugs, air filter, pcv, MAF,IAC,check fluid levels, etc..) then its been too long.
  15. Save money for other repairs, use the Fram brand (..they work just the same). Maybe junkyard for another pre-cat?? Save some $$. 160 miles on your tranny and if it hasn't been replaced then consider yourself lucky. Check ATF, if dirty brown and smells burnt then replace by the 'drain and fill' method. (Note: Flushing may clogged the internal filter and then you will have to drop tranny and replace filter...time and $$. Side pan on tranny just covers valves and does not contain filter. If the pan gasket is leaking then take this time to replace it.) Add an external ATF cooler to system to help prolong your tranny ...over-heating issues. Over time, this may still happen even with an added cooler?? (Note: Long distance driving requires internal parts (torque converter?) of tranny to try to keep cool. Over heating causes O/D flashing , Fail-Safe mode and spillage of ATF from vent tube. Eventually, over heating will weaken and stop tranny from operating properly.) Regular maintenance on you car will help keep car running and in future trouble shooting events Good luck!!.
  16. NKG brand works best with these Japanese(Ford) cars. Electrical shorts can cause problems with these cars...as well as moisture...proper grounding to your system is important especially if you have aftermarket electronics.(Add extra ground wire) I'm not a fan of messing with the factory set TB adjusting idle screw. Should be left to the proper qualified mechanic/tools however if you are the 3rd or 4th owner then someone might have already messed with this screw? I'm more incline to adjusting the IAC screw. Someone (this forum) reported adjusting this before. Since your resistance level is close to being out of the range, I would try adjusting the idle with this screw first to get it to 700 rpms. Maybe this screw just pushes the internal spring to 'allow more tension' to push 'plunger' to close more?? IDK If the IAC valve was working (properly or not properly but still working) then when you disconnect the electrical connection, the car should almost 'stall out' or does. If idle is unchanged, then IAC may not be any good any more? (BTW-My IAC valve reads 8.5 Ohmns) If your IAC valve was really dirty, it might have been struck in place that allowed enought air into system and allow car to stay idling?? Hope this helps..let us know. Good luck! Here a pic:
  17. Have you found a solution to your problem? At idle, 500 rpms is too low (..should run around 700). Your IAC valve could be giving out and cheaper way is to find a used replacement...junkyard maybe? There seems to be a small adjusting hex socket screw at the end of the valve. Someone reported that by turning this screw, he was able to adjust idle??? You can try it to see if it works.....at this point, nothing to lose? Replace air filter. Replace spark plugs (recommend NGK BKR5EGP, no gapping needed). Also, clean battery terminals, especially the negative post and grounding points. Add extra ground wire(s) to your system...search How-To. Good luck!
  18. You should get a 'code(s)' for failure/concerns of the sensor(s). When you first start your car, the idle will be high but once warmed up then it should idle at around 700 rpms (without any other electrical/ac/heater devices on). Note: At 'idle ' means car is in Park or Neutral and warmed up(..normal operating temperture). Look for possible vacumm leak? Clean the MAF and IAC valve (carefully put back together properly). When was your last 'minor' tune-up....spark plugs,air filter, pcv, oil & filter, gas filter etc..? Seafoam treatment...add to gas tank and brake booster vacumm line.
  19. Here's mine on the 98 LX 4cyl: (The VSS is directly under the rear motor mount. Access is only from under-neath the car.)
  20. Stigger, you may have already solved your problem but my 'short' answer to your problem is to just replace the 'faulty' relay. However, I'm not sure I understand your problem...I've re-read your post(s) and I am not sure what is not happening.....car does not start??...even after you jumped the circuit?? I looked at my Haynes manuel (work book for US models) and found this part that may help or not? I've also done a bit of reseach and have more info but you may not need any more if you already 'solved' your problem??
  21. I got mine from Performance Radiators for $150.00 in 2008. Price seems to have drop since 2008 at $118.00 and free shipping. The quality was good (..and later I bought another for a Chevy make). There may be less expensive one out there but I wouldn't go to cheap.....quality?? Not hard to replace. Air filter intake assembly needs to be removed ..and maybe the reservoir bottle (..I not sure why I removed it). Note: My original radiator was not as 'thick' / 'wide' as the replacement but there was no problem to the install...it fit fine. The thickness difference is because the aftermarket radiator was re-designed to add a more 'cooling' effect to the ATF by enlarging the side width spacing. Tips: 1) Flush system first before installing new radiator. 2) Replace thermostat as well. 3) Replace old hose(s) ....if needed ( I only replaced the older lower hose). 4) Removed radiator with both fans attached but re-installed one at a time (time saver and easier to get to fan bolts). 5) Attached new lower hose to new radiator before install (hard to tighten/reach clamp if radiator is installed first). Good luck!
  22. I may be mistaken but you said that you only have a relay for the fuel pump circuit and not a fuse. However, my 98LX has both a relay and a fuse, both are located in under the hood fusebox. The diagram you posted appears to indicate a 30A fuse (EGI) in your circuit. You may have already discussed this (and I missed this) and moved on to other options?? Good lucK!
  23. First, this is a simple and straight-forward procedure...however there are several items to be removed or disconnected just to allow room to work and to provide 'clearance' of the side pan of this 1998 CD4E automatic transmission. Some of these items are 'optional' depending on your car. I chose to remove these items inorder to clean as much 'grim build-up' as possible. Secondly, I chose to just allow the ATF to drip from the un-bolted pan instead of a complete draining from one of the drain plugs. My ATF was fine and there was minimal (about 1/2 pint) fluid drained...possibably due to the cars' tilted position? Lastly, this 1998 cars' transmission filter is located inside the transmission and not found inside this side pan. Replacing the filter would require 'dropping' the entire transmission from the motor/car. Required: a) gasket - cork; 14 bolts ( I used Autopartwarehouse part # FW50-21-531 W0133-1701471 @ $15.00) b) basic tools- socket set; wrench(s); screwdriver(s) c) gasket maker adhesive (optional) d) engine degreaser spray can (optional) e) rubbing alcohol f) patience (...optional) 'How-to' procedure: (note: refer to 'Pics' for additional help) 1) Remove: a) battery and support base/pan b) air filter box and assembly ( I just removed bottom half of box) c) radiator fan (optional) 2) Jack up front driver side and removed tire (optional) 3) Removed plastic bottom/side cover (optional- you can just unbolt bottom half of cover and leave side part connected) 4) Spray degreaser and clean dirt (...especially away from the trans pan area) 5) Disconnect items (optional-for 'clearance' of trans pan removal) a) ATF line (aftermarket external trans cooler line) b) electrical plug (to Transaxle Range sensor) c) metal bracket (electrical harness support;unbolt) d) upper radiator hose (to remove radiator fan; raised hose and 'plug' for minimal fluid loss- I used a small plastic Coke bottle) 6) Remove transmission pan and old gasket (...finally). 7) Clean surfaces of contact of both pan and transmission. (note: used rubbing alcohol on pan surface but transmission surface still dripped ATF but this did not affect sealing procedure) 8) Replaced gasket and re-attach pan. (optional- used adhesive to keep gasket in position while re-mounting pan to transmission) 9) Put everything else back in place. 10) Lower vehicle and replace loss amount of fluids (ATF and antifreeze coolant) 11) Done!!
  24. Our cars' electrical system sometimes seem to be affected by high humidity/moisture. Consider doing this to help support your existing electrical system. Good luck;)
  25. As a 'Rule of Thumb', you should always look at the last thing you did to your car before your problem showed up. In your case, you replaced the compressor then the idle started to act up. Yes? Then you cleaned the IAC valve and it did nothing or it got worst. Yes? Tests: 1) take the compressor out of the 'loop' of the problem by removing the AC fuse. What happens? Any noticable change to the idle? Next (keep fuse out), 2) take the IAC valve out of the 'loop' (sort of) by disconnecting the electrical connection to the valve. What happens? Any noticable changes? Next (put AC fuse back in), 3) put compressor back in 'loop' but keep IAC valve disconnected. What happens? Depending on what happens from these tests, it could be that your IAC valve is the problem....that is if you don't have a vacuum leak somewhere? Don't buy an IAC valve just yet. They can be expensive and it may not be the problem.(Possible to find a used one around to try than a new one??) Report back.
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