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TR_car_nut

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About TR_car_nut

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    breaksr2

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  1. TR_car_nut

    Looking For Engine

    I guess I should put my two cents in also. I also have swapped a 1999 engine with a 1993 engine on a 1999 mazda 626 V6. The block and heads are essentially the same with only differences to the internal workings (lifters and others). It is very simple to move the cam sensor from your old bad 2000 V6 engine and put it onto the replacement 1993-1997 motor (you do not have to pull the heads). You will have to swap the intake manifold and wire harness and vacuum hoses. This process is very simple and can be done without drilling or machining any parts. All the emission and accessories will bolt right back onto the replacement engine it's just a lot of part moving. Remember to even change the crank pulley since they are slightly different (probably because of the no distributor on the 98 and newer). Good idea to replace the valve cover gaskets given you will have the covers off anyway. Use some RTV on the rubber gasket seals when you put them back together so they will never leak again. I'm a 30 year veteran of automotive repair and have owned several Mazda 626's. I'm also going to be looking at a 2000 626 V6 with a bad motor this weekend. I think I'll just change the bearings this time. That should stir up some trouble.
  2. TR_car_nut

    Fuel Pump Location / Car Not Runing / Rr

    I was afraid that was the case. When I pulled the bottom of the back seat out and all I saw was metal I figured it was going to take removing the tank from the bottom of the car. I'm putting a new battery in the car and will take a listen while the key is in the "ON" position to see if I can hear the pump buzzing. I think the tank is half full so I guess I will be making the trip to the recycling center.
  3. I've got a 1997 626 I4 with the automatic transmission, 160K miles, that has been sitting for about four years now. I tried starting it and the car cranks but will only run if I put starting fluid in the hose from the fuel filter. When it does run it's just for few minutes since no fuel is coming from the gas tank. I'm not sure if the fuel pump has gone bad or maybe a bad fuel pump relay. When I did a search for the fuel pump on this site I didn't get any hits. How do you get to the fuel pump? Do you have to drop the gas tank? I can see fuel lines coming out of the tank but I don't see the pump unless it is behind some panel under the car. Any help is appreciated. I'm looking at buying this car on the cheap so let me know what you think.
  4. TR_car_nut

    Spammer

    I've gotten two of these spam emails with a link to iefa.ru. Appears to be some sort of adult chat site (Free S_x Personals).
  5. TR_car_nut

    Wanted.

    I have that plastic piece for the heater hose to the thermostat housing. Make me an offer and add a little for shipping.
  6. TR_car_nut

    Bearing Replacement

    Well I still think it's a bad rod bearing but I would probably have to hear the motor. If the sound changes with engine RPM and it sounds like a someone knocking on a piece of metal with a hammer then I think it's a bad bearing. One way to diagnose this is: with the motor off pull the plug wires off the plugs but don't pull them all the way off (just loosen them slightly). Now start the engine and listen for the knock, pull the plug wires one a time and see if the knocking stops (you will need to pull the wire and then replace it so the engine does not stall). If the knock stops after you pull one of the wires then you have a bad rod bearing.
  7. TR_car_nut

    Bearing Replacement

    Don't waste your money on an OBD-II reader unless you plan on fixing cars on a regular basis. Go to Advance Auto or Autozone and borrow one for free. If you want to buy one get it from Harbor Freight (haborfreight.com).
  8. TR_car_nut

    Bearing Replacement

    Well given you have not driven the car in two years my guess is the gas is no longer really gas. It buck and misfire since there probably is plenty of moisture in the gas. Go to the gas station, put some dry-gas in the tank, and then fill up with super unleaded. Replace the oil and filter, check the plugs and wires. Then give it another try. If the check engine light is on you will need to scan the codes to see what is wrong.
  9. TR_car_nut

    626 V6 Engine Parts For Sale

    I have what's left of a V6 swap I did last year when a rod bearing went bad on my 1999 626 V6 motor. Intake manifold for '93-'97 626 V6 motor (with most of the emmission control stuff) - $50 plus shipping (it's heavy) 2.5L engine from the 1999 car with 79K original miles and a bad rod bearing (still ran when I pulled it). Heads are in good shape but will need a good cleaning given the dried oil inside. Essentially this is the block and heads without any of the accessory components (A/C, alternator, water pump, etc). Stored inside my garage. No rust. - $75 (make offer) Front covers, timing belt pulley's and other misc parts. Tell me what you want. - $10 and up (make offer) Will ship these parts. I live in Winston-Salem, NC and you can email at breaksr2 (it's a yahoo email so you know what to do for the rest). UPDATE: I sold the motor and all I have left is the manifold and some of the emission parts on the manifold. I also have the front covers that cover the timing belt. There are some other misc. engine parts so email me if you need something.
  10. TR_car_nut

    Bearing Replacement

    As far as I know you have to remove the engine, unbolt the flywheel, pull the oil pan off, unbolt all of the rod bearings and main bearings, and then you can pull the crankshaft. I don't think you can do it while in the car given the flywheel is bolted to the crank.
  11. TR_car_nut

    Transmission Leaking Fluid

    Sounds like a cooling line if it's leaking that fast. Check the rear main seal, the seals at the axle shafts (two of them), and lastly the seal on the bottom of the transmission which is a round metal plate that has a clip holding it to the transmission (should never leak from here unless someone has put some foreign substance in the trans.).
  12. TR_car_nut

    Valve Cover Gasket Rplacement???

    You can use something like "Import Grey" gasket maker / sealer on the new gasket before you do the install (Advance auto). Just smear a thin layer on the gasket and stick it in the valve cover and then put some on the head where the gasket sits. Put the cover on and then tighten all the bolts. The gasket sealer will make the seal last longer. This is a weak seal on both the V6 and I4 motors so hopefully with the gasket sealer it will last much longer. Also check to make sure there is a rubber seal on the oil fill cap that seals the cap to the metal cover (this seal sometimes falls out).
  13. TR_car_nut

    2001 2.5l 626 Distributorless

    I can't believe how many times I have read this exact swap. It is possible and it is very simple to do (some Mazda tech you have there?). I had to swap a 1999 V6 with a 1993 engine. The block and the heads are identical except for the fact that the internals of the heads are slightly different. I wrote about this swap about a year ago and there are several parts you have to move from the 2001 engine to the pre 1998 engine (distributorless to non). Not sure if I can remember all of the parts but here goes (search for some of my previous messages). The rear exhaust manifold (they are different at the bolts for the exhaust pipe), center cooling pipe (in between the heads) that connects the overflow on one side and the thermostat on the other, A/C mounting bracket (they are a different size), vibration damper (the big pulley for the crank, different number of spokes poking out), the valve covers (different venting), while the valve covers are off pull the sensor off one of the cam wheels (the wire that is coming out of the head) it's held in with two bolts and it holds the end of the cam shaft (you need this in place of the distributor), pull the distributor out and bolt on the distributorless system with the plug wires (plug the hole in the head where the dstributor use to go with the metal plug from the distributorless engine), plug up the oil cooler (if your older engine has that pipe coming off the oil filter area). Think I got all of it. You need to pull all of the electrical / emissions stuff off of the distributorless motor and put it on the engine going into the car (everthing will work don't worry). When you do the swap it's easiest to pull the motor and the transmission at the same time (this makes it less painful). Let me know if you have any questions. Also let me know if you happen to need any parts since I have the old engine and plenty of parts in my garage.
  14. TR_car_nut

    2nd Tranny Failure - Need Guidance

    Well admitely the car is not the best but I fix them for a hobby so you guys who are ready to sell them cheap let me know ($500). I think what I would do if I had an automatic with a bad trans is ask around to see who has had there trans rebuilt by a local shop. Check those cars for how well they drive currently given how bad some of the rebuilds are you need actual proof of the final rebuild. My guy charges $1400 which I think is very fair. Don't try to rebuild it yourself it's not that easy and it's not worth the headache. With that said google phoenix hard parts (also on eBay) they have rebuild kits and rebuilt transmissions if you want to go that way. You can buy warranties with the trans. If you want to convert find a junk yard manual transmission car and grab the parts you need (trans, pedal box, clutch master/slave cylinder, etc). Also buy both axle shafts when you go to pull the transmission so you can replace them after the trans is installed (costs about $150). Now after everything is done change the transmission fluid every year or six months depending on drive habits. Fluid should always be blood red.
  15. TR_car_nut

    O/d Light Flashing And Tranny Wont Shift?

    Flashing O/D light I've had that one. Don't bring it to the dealer for a rebuild those trans are crap. My independent shop rebuilds them for $1400 which I think is a deal (includes the remove and replace of trans). I have driven the rebuilds these independent shops do and it is worth the bucks. It puts the dealers to shame the work is so much better. I know these transmissions are bad but the rebuilds I get from my guy are warrantied for 36K miles / 36 months. That's in North Carolina.
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