bobp1

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About bobp1

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    2001 626, 2.0 MTX. 92,000 miles

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    Pacific Northwest
  1. *Edit* I probably should have done a little more troubleshooting first but gambled instead and ordered a non-immobilizer PCM off of eBay today for about $100 after shipping and tax. I found two instances on the internet where people had successfully replaced the immobilizer PCM with a non-immobilizer PCM on pre-2000 626s (one of those done by a Mazda dealer when they couldn’t fix the problem with the immobilizer!) but couldn’t find any examples of it being done on the 2000+ cars. I think it should work but also know they changed the immobilizer system in 2000, making it more sophisticated with rolling random codes. So keeping my fingers crossed and I’ll post whether or not it works. Hi Folks, I’m hoping that someone on the forum has in-depth knowledge of the immobilizer system used on the 626. I just picked up a non-running 2001 with the 2.0/manual transmission and 92,000 miles that cranks over but won’t start. I think the immobilizer system is malfunctioning (no spark or fuel) but I’m hoping that someone might know how to troubleshoot the system for sure. The reason I think it is the immobilizer system is that the security light (“outline of car with key inside” symbol) in the instrument cluster is not coming on at all. According to the owner’s manual, “If the immobilizer is working properly, the light will come on when the ignition is turned to the start position” and if the light “fails to come on, it indicates a system malfunction.” The owner’s manual says that malfunction can be indicated by the light flashing, staying on, or not coming on at all. The light on my car doesn’t come on at all. Does anyone know if the light not coming on at all points to a particular problem, and would someone mind turning their key and letting me know when and if the security light comes on and turns off? Another thing that’s got me stumped is that I’ve read that if the immobilizer system isn’t working properly that it should set a code, but I checked with a code reader and I don’t have any codes set. The code reader in live RPM mode does see the engine turning over when the engine cranks with the starter, so I’m thinking the crankshaft position sensor is working and is not the problem. Anyone have any insight into this issue? I found a thread on mazdaforum.com from 2006 where the poster said that he solved the problem by installing a rebuilt ECU ($250 after core) and new immobilizer (about $200), and another thread where someone with a 1998 626 replaced their ECU with a non-immobilizer ECU, and he said that worked too. Though I believe the immobilizer system changed from the 1999 to the 2000 model year, and I’ve read that all 2001 626s have the immobilizer, but RockAuto lists ignition switches with and without immobilizer, so I’m not sure what is up with that. I know I’ve thrown a lot of info and questions out there, but I hate to start installing new parts without knowing for sure what the problem is first. I thought getting the car running would be simple but it’s turning into a pain. I've done a lot of searching on the internet but couldn't come up with much good specific info. Thanks in advance for anyone that might be able to help!
  2. Wiper Options

    I did this on the '98 that i had - it was as simple as replacing the wiper control stalk with the adjustable time control stalk from a newer model. It was easy to do and didn't require any other parts or control modules, etc.
  3. Ebay Timing Belt Packages??

    I've used two or three of the ebay timing belt/water-pump kits and they worked great - no problems whatsoever.
  4. Idle Issues

    This seems to be a fairly common problem and I've yet to see a solution - see these old posts: Search for a topic named "Idle Problem--idle Drops"
  5. <p>Mazda 626</p>

    Mazda 626
  6. What Year Trans Will Fit A 93

    Only the 93 will work. I have seen them advertised at the companies that import used engines and transmissions from Japan for about $500.
  7. The 626 Is Gone..

    Hope you enjoy the Subaru! I'm just curious--what problems were you having with the 626 that were cleaning out your bank account? I've been driving 4 cylinder/manual transmission models for several years now and the things I love about them are how cheap they are to operate and how easy they are to work on. The wife and I are concentrating on paying off our mortgage way early and the old Mazdas have really helped keep our vehicle expenses down. Did they treat you ok on your trade-in? See you're a fellow Washingtonian--I'm up in the Bellingham area.
  8. Gents, here is an idea for the new site: some sort of interchange manual. This idea was pitched back in 2005 but it never really took off, in spite of Xenomorph going to the trouble of creating a wiki to do it (http://www.thexgn.com/626/doku.php). The name of the post was "Interchange Manual". Maybe there's not much interest, seeing how the wiki wasn't used much--just throwing it out there again!
  9. 94 Dx Trouble

    I had a similar problem on my 2.0 1993 DX. Got a distributor on Ebay (new, not rebuilt) and it worked great. I believe it was a company called Distributor King out of Canada.
  10. 98 Taillights

    I put the newer tail lights on my '98 and the car looks much better. They fit perfectly with no modifications required.
  11. Cracked Spoiler, Ideas For Glue/epoxy?

    If you can find a seller on ebay named Intcomponents, I got one from them, new Mazda OEM in the factory box with hardward and new trunk springs, for less than $50. I think it was $35 plus shipping. They had advertised $25 but then only charged $10.
  12. Cracked Spoiler, Ideas For Glue/epoxy?

    Do a search on Ebay for NEW OEM MAZDA 626 REAR SPOILER WING. $125 with free shipping. I bought two of these on ebay before and they are great. You may find it even cheaper. I am looking for one for my 2002 in Light Parchment Gold, but because that was a new color and not available '98 - '01, haven't been able to fiind one.
  13. Warping Dash

    The dash on my '98 did the same thing. I removed the black plastic bezel and squirted Gorilla Glue under the dash pad. I then put a rag on top of the dash (to protect it) and used C-clamps to press the pad down until the glue dried. Keeping the clamps on is tricky because of the angles. It has held for several months now.
  14. Did They Make A Front Map Light ??

    I love my car, but that was a design flaw...how much effort and expense would it have been to add map lights? I have seen map lights in cars at the junk yards (maybe in the 2000-2002 models?) but I don't believe they would be a direct fit in a car that didn't come with them. Plus I have the moon roof with its controls where the map lights go, so that created another problem for me. Map lights and rear seat cup holders, these cars should have had both.
  15. Idle Problem--idle Drops

    I am on vacation for another week, but when I get home I am going to swap out the brake switch, and whatever switch may be on the clutch pedal, from my old parts car onto my car. We have driven the car halfway across the country and averaged just over 30 mpg all the way Just over 180,000 miles on the chassis and just over 100,000 miles on the engine and transmission. I wrote the following earlier in the thread, but I was having this idle-drop problem, then replaced the engine and transmission for unrelated reasons, and I STILL have the problem. I thought for sure that the problem would go away when I swapped engines! So whatever it is, it is something on the car (PCM, one of these switches we're talking about, etc.) and not the engine and everything mounted directly to it, as that stuff was all replaced from my parts car--which didn't have the problem. I do think it may have something to do with the application of the brake and/or clutch, but it's weird because after coming to a stop and the idle drops and then recovers, stepping on the brake or clutch again while stopped doesn't make the idle drop again, at least not most of the time. It is almost like some switch or sensor is sending a signal to the PCM that tells it to drop the idle. And you see, that's what makes this problem so frustrating is that it is inconsistent and intermittent. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all, and other times it does it all the time. There doesn't seem to be any factors I have been able to identify, like hot or cold weather, high or low humidity, driven short vs. long distances, etc., that take place when it does or doesn't have the problem. Just seems to have a mind of its own. So in my case, it's not a leaky intake manifold gasket (I replaced the gasket when I swapped engines) nor the throttle body, throttle body gasket, EGR valve or IAC, as I've had several different ones on the car and the problem remained. If I ever figure this out, and I'm having my doubts, I will make sure I post the solution. I hate it when people don't let us know how they solved their problems