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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/22/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    The V8 will go in my Opel (it's smog exempt). Not going to do any permanent mods on my 626. And here's a token pic from my phone.
  2. 1 point
    Hey Benni.... Ja ich bin es.
  3. 1 point
    A cheap check would be look for the test port in front of the catalytic converter. Remove it and drive around and see if it runs better.
  4. 1 point
    Too bad indeed! I am from Canada but live in Pennsylvania, USA. You guys have so much good stuff down there. One of my fav countries in terms of car culture.
  5. 1 point
    Lol I go forwards and backwards on this. I really need to have it going. So I'm replacing the auto - yuck - (used tested unit with 6 months warranty - $350 trade price). When my wife is done with it I'll probably go 5 speed then. I am hunting for a full gasket kit, rings and bearings, I can see it being around $800, so I try and get small cheap bits first. I plan on stripping the $50 engine at home, cleaning it at work in spare time and then assembling when I have all the parts together, then bring the car to work - hopefully the gearbox will hold for 40 kms, swap over the bits from the smokey engine onto the freshed up one. Someone took this engine in the pic - not that it bothered me as I already have a FS-ZE long block. I wanted the intake manifold but it was gone. I did get the exhaust manifold from this exact car - genuine FS-ZE Mazdaspeed Protege/Familia ex japan, which suffered a big front end hit. Wouldn't have minded the yellow brace, only on the MS cars but it was gone. I already have the common red one which will do anyway lol. Its happening! Just slowly as I save and get parts together. If my wallet was full of money and everything was on the shelf I'd take the car tomorrow and get right into it.
  6. 1 point
    I don't know anything about that code myself, but I put it in the search box and a lot of helpful threads came up. So I suggest you start with those. (My guess is you need to clean out the ports in the intake). https://mazda626.net/search/?q=p1195
  7. 1 point
    G'day, my name is Matt, live on Gold Coast. My brother in law has a large collection of old Mazdas (bongos, B1600s, 323s, 626s) all pre-1980 stuff. I bought a '79 626 off him that I am trying to get on the road, new windscrenn, change to a 5 speed then RW and should be good to go. Hopefully by March i will have it ready, anyone in south east qld who wants to go for cruise let me know, look forward to it. Cheers, Matt
  8. 1 point
    Owners Manual If you don't have one. Fuse S inside the car. And if you read the above posts, shows the fuse diagram.
  9. 1 point
    If you use a regular bolt, it would block the flow going through the PS pump. A banjo bolt has a hole on the side and that hole runs to the bottom hole of that bolt thus allowing fluid flow to bypass through the bolt and into the pipe as it's designed. I'm not an expert in everything inside a PS pump so I don't know the damage it could do without the banjo bolt but I'm sure it will cause premature failure down the road. If you're going to temporally put a regular bolt in until you find the correct one, make sure you buy another pair of copper washers since they can only be used once. Again I am not sure what happens once you put the regular bolt in and start the car and drive it.
  10. 1 point
    It will not without cutting and welding, I was not able to fit it in the time I had with the tools available to me. The j pipe was canted off to one side and was too tight to the bottom of the engine and frame. You'd pretty much need a custom made j pipe for the header to work out on a 626. Mine sits in the basement till I get around to selling it or till someone I know gets a car it'll fit.
  11. 1 point
    Ah yes, smog. This is why I left California! Your car is awesome!!! I was just in LA nearly a month ago. I went to this: https://www.automobiledrivingmuseum.org/event/jdm2018/ JDM at the ADM on September 29th (my car was next to the black one in the first photo foreground)... I should probably post more pics (and of my other car show adventure)... I'm not on here often enough. There was only one other Capella there (a first generation/early 70's one) and it wasn't even at the same part of the show (it was bigger than you see here). It was a blast anyway, especially when I told people I'd just driven 850 miles (1400km) to be there. Next time I trek down, you should join me!! We could totally show up those millions of 510s (and the accompanying Bluebirds) that seem to hang out at these shows!
  12. 1 point
    Hi I'm new to the forum and live in Brisbane Queensland. I am presently doing up my 81 626 and I was asking if anybody knows if these chrome moulds are available? Are there any chrome moulds from other vehicles that will fit my S2 626. Thanks
  13. 1 point
    Oh I see, youre taking a page out of my book....”if it ain’t broke, fix it till it’s broke” if you are in fact willing to take a working engine out, take it all apart, put it back together, reinstall the engine then I say go for it. Machine work isent cheap and if you take the long block to a machine shop it could cost up to $2000 to have them do the whole job. You should get very fimilar with the factory work shop manual. It’s a big task especially for someone who never done it. Rebuilding an engine is rebuilding an engine. Not much differs. Research how an engine works and the components of an engine there’s a lot to consider. You must keep it extremely clean a tiny spec of dust on a crank journal can cause a catastrophic failure. If it’s not knocking or burning a ton of oil I would drive it till it breaks. Then attempt to repair your first engine whatever you decide to do I wish you the best of luck! My 2 cents
  14. 1 point
    Hi Rotated, what is the model of the white one with the plate number 74687-H? Hi
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    If the spark plug wires have never been changed, it might be a good idea to change them. Most people find NGK blue are the best.
  17. 1 point
    PMX626.info now has a 1981 Work Shop Manual for free. It should still be helpful to all 1978-1982 owners.
  18. 1 point
    So this is the rubber seal i was talking about and DJ was correct. For some reason I was thinking it was the same as the 97. I am very good at confusing myself. Thanks again for all the help.
  19. 1 point
    This data should be correct, however I nor Mazda626.net will not take ANY responsibility for any possible damage due to following these specs. Here should be the most essential info on the FS 2.0 16v engine: Mazda F Engine Specifications Type: FS Year: 1993-1997 (93-97) Horsepower: 118 @ 5500 RPM Torque(lbs/ft): 127 @ 4500 RPM Displacement Volume: 2.0L / 1991cc / 121.5ci Cylinder Configuration: Inline-Four(I4) Type: 4 Stroke Otto Cycle Bore: 83mm / 3.268 Stroke: 92mm / 3.622 Bore: Stroke Ratio: 0.902 Undersquare(Torque Biased) Rod: Stroke Ratio: 1.467 Poor(Torque Biased) "Rod Length: 135mm / 5.315""" Compression Ratio: 9.0:1 "Compression, bar: 11,7 (min 8,24, max difference 2,0)" "Oil Pressure: 4,9 @ 3000 RPM / min 3,92 @ 3000 RPM" Thermostat opening: 80-84 Celsius "Coolant Temp. sensor 20 C / 80 C: 2,2-2,7 KOhm / 0,28-0,35 KOhm " "IAT sensor 25 C: 29,7 - 36,3 Kohm" "TPS Voltage: Closed(0,1-1,1) WOT(3,1-4,4)" Idle speed: 700 PRM +/- 50 "Electrode gap: 1,0-1,1 mm" Firing Order: 1-3-4-2 Induction Type: Natural Intake Manifold: Single Stage | Long Runners(Torque Biased) Valvetrain: DOHC 16 Valve | Hydralic Lash Adjustment | Timing Belt Valve/Valveseat Angle: 45/45 Intake Cam: FS01 Exhaust Cam: FS01 Ignition Type: Distributor Ignition: 12 degrees BTDC +/- 1 @ 700 RPM Fuel System: Multipoint EFI Fuel Injector Rate: 220ml/min Fuel Injector Resistance: 12-16 Ohm Manual Transmission Type: G15M-R | 4.105 Final | Open Cylinder Head tightening sequence: 8 4 1 5 9 7 3 2 6 10 Cylinder head tightening torque(oiled): Step 1: 17-22 Nm Step 2: 90 deg +/- 5 Step 3: 90 deg +/- 5 "Bolt length(max): 105,5mm" Main Bearing Bolts tightening torque: 17-22 Nm Connecting rod bolts tightening torque: 22-27 Nm Flywheel Bolts tightening torque: 100 Nm Camshaft wheels/bearings torque: 50-60 Nm / 11-14 Nm Spark Plugs: 15-22 Nm "Engine Oil Capacity(incl. filter): 3,3-3,5 L" "Gearbox oil capacity: 2,7 L" "Auto tranny oil capactiy: 8,8 L" "Power Steering liquid capacity: 1,25 L" "Coolant Liquid Capacity: 7,0 L" Type: FS-DE / FSDE Year: 1998-2003 (98-03) Cylinders: 4 Type: 4 Stroke Otto Cycle Horsepower: 130 @ 6000 RPM Torque(lbs/ft): 135 @ 4000 RPM Displacement Volume: 2.0L / 1991cc / 121.5ci Cylinder Configuration: Inline-Four(I4) Type: 4 Stroke Otto Cycle Bore: 83mm / 3.268 Stroke: 92mm / 3.622 Bore:Stroke Ratio: 0.902 Undersquare(Torque Biased) Rod:Stroke Ratio: 1.467 Poor(Torque Biased) Rod Length: 135mm / 5.315 Compression Ratio: 9.1:1 Induction Type: Natural Redline: 6500r/min Intake Manifold: Dual Stage VICS | VTCS(Protege) Intake Manifold: Single Stage | Medium Length Runners(626) Valvetrain: DOHC 16 Valve | Direct Shim Over Tappet Actuation | Timing Belt Intake Cam: FSD7 Exhaust Cam: FSD7 Ignition Type: Distributor-less Coil Pack Fuel System: Multipoint EFI Fuel Injector Rate: 285ml/min Manual Transmission Type: G15M-R | 4.105 Final | Open Alternator output: 12V 80A Type: FS-DE / FSDE Year: 2001 (01) MP3 Horsepower: 140 @ 6000 RPM Torque(lbs/ft): 142 @ 4500 RPM Factory Tuned ECU: Advanced Ignition Timing(Requires Premium Fuel) "Axle-Back Exhaust: Manufactured by Racing Beat(2.375"")" Revised VICS Intake Manifold: Mazda VTC System Removed(Hindered Intake Velocity) Type: FS-DET / FSDET 2.0L Year: MSP 2003 (03) Cylinders: 4 Horsepower: 170hp @ 6000r/min (SAE net) Torque(lbs/ft): 160lbs/ft @ 4000r/min (SAE net) Co-Engineer: Callaway Cars Bore & Stroke: 83mm x 92mm Redline: 6500r/min Compression Ratio: 9.1:1 Induction Type: Turbo Turbocharger: Garrett T-25 | 6psi-9max | Internal Wastegate Exhaust Manifold: Callaway Log-Style Turbo-Manifold "Axle-back Exhaust: Manufactured by Racing Beat(2.375"")" By-Pass/Blow-Off Valve: Modified FD RX7 Unit Intercooler: Turbo Diesel 323 | Air-to-Air Radiator: Turbo Diesel 323 | Air-to-Coolant Oil Cooler: Water Cooled Transmission: G15M-R | 4.105 Final | 2-way LSD Release Bearing and Clutch Pivot Fork: Upgraded Ignition type: distributor-less coil pack Fuel system: Multipoint EFI Fuel injector rate: 285ml/min Valve Timing "Intake cam duration: 230° @ 0.003""" Intake cam opening: 2° BTDC Intake cam closing: 48° ABDC "Intake cam lobe height: 43.700mm (1.7205"")" "Intake cam base circle: 35.052mm (1.380"")" "Intake valve lift: 8.6487mm (0.3405"")" "Exhaust cam duration: 230° @ 0.003""" Exhaust cam opening: 48° BBDC Exhaust cam close: 2° ATDC "Exhaust cam lobe height: 43.225mm (1.7018"")" "Exhaust cam base circle: 35.052mm (1.380"")" "Exhaust valve lift: 8.1737mm (0.3218"")" Valve overlap: 4° Type: FS-ZE / FSZE Year:1999-2003 (99-03) Cylinders: 4 Displacement: 1991cc "Valvetrain: DOHC 16 valve, direct shim over tappet actuation, timing belt" Horsepower: 168 @ 6800 RPM (JIS net) [MY2002.5-2003: 163hp @ 6800r/min (JIS net)] Torque(lbs/ft): 131 @ 5000 RPM (JIS net) [MY2002.5-2003: 128lbs/ft @ 5000rpm (JIS net)] Compression Ratio: 10.4:1 Intake Manifold: Revised VICS | High Performance(FS-ZE) Intake Cam: FSH9 Exhaust Cam: FSD7 Bore & Stroke: 83mm x 92mm Induction Type: Natural Redline: 7000r/min Alternator output: 12V 80A Ignition type: distributor-less coil pack Fuel system: Multipoint EFI Fuel injector rate: 285ml/min Manual Transmission type: G15MX-R {AWD} Type: MSF FS-ZE / FSZE Year: 2001 (01) MSF Cylinders: 4 Displacement: 1991cc "Valvetrain: DOHC 16 valve, direct shim over tappet actuation, timing belt" Horsepower: 173 @ 6800 RPM (JIS net) Torque(lbs/ft): 134 @ 5000 RPM (JIS net) Units Produced: 209 Compression Ratio: 10.7:1 Exhaust Manifold: 4-2-1 MazdaSpeed Header Muffler: MazdaSpeed Sport Sound Flywheel: MazdaSpeed Chromoly Lightened Intake Cam: FSH9 Exhaust Cam: FS9P Bore & Stroke: 83mm x 92mm Induction Type:Natural Redline: 7000r/min Alternator output: 12V 80A Ignition type: distributor-less coil pack Fuel system: Multipoint EFI Fuel injector rate: 285ml/min Manual Transmission type: G15M-R Type: FP-DE 1.8L Year: 1999-2000 (99-00) Cylinders: 4 "Valvetrain: DOHC 16 valve, direct shim over tappet actuation, timing belt" Horsepower: 122 @ 6000 RPM (US SAE Net/Can) / 133 @ 6200 RPM(Japan) / 113 @ 6000 RPM(Euro) Torque(lbs/ft): 120 @ 4000 RPM (US SAE Net/Can) / 117 @ 4500 RPM (Japan) / 117 @ 4000 RPM (Euro) Available in Japan: 92-01 Displacement: 1839cc Bore: 83mm Stroke: 85mm Bore:Stroke Ratio: 0.9765 Square(No Bias) Rod:Stroke Ratio: 1.52 Good(No Bias) "Rod Length: 129.2mm / 5.087""" Compression Ratio: 9.1:1(US/Can) / 9.1:1(Japan) / 9.7:1(Euro) Induction Type: Natural Ignition type: distributor-less coil pack Fuel system: Multipoint EFI Fuel injector rate: 235ml/min Transmission: F25M-R(US/Can) / G25MX-R(Japan) / F25M-R(Euro) Intake Cam: FP39 Exhaust Cam: FP47 Misc. Piston Interchangeability: FS-DE 9.1:1 FS-DE 9.7:1 (9.1:1 when used with FP-DE) FS-ZE 10.4:1 (9.7:1 when used with FP-DE) FS-ZE 10.7:1 Bore:Stroke Ratio: X ≤ 0.94 = Undersquare(Torque Bias) 0.95-1.04 = Square(No Bias) X ≥ 1.05 = Oversquare(Power Bias) Rod:Stroke Ratio: X ≤ 1.49 = Poor(Torque Bias) 1.5-1.624 = Average(No Bias) 1.625-1.74 = Good(Power Bias) X ≥ 1.75 = Superb This information here is a mix of information compiled by blackshine, mazdarati, and probetalk: http://forums.probet...hp?p=1923400007 See attached PDF for version 1 (old) here: Mazda F Series Engine Specs - Version 1 (OLD) Mazda626 Forums.pdf Mazda F Series Engine Specs - Version 1 (OLD) Mazda626 Forums.pdf
  20. 1 point
    Thought I'd just post group shots of our Sixes!
  21. 1 point
    Check the EGR wiring to ensure it's all plugged in; then verify you hooked the vacuum lines up correctly (I'm willing to bet this is the problem). BTW, EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation, and the "haze" you're seeing is probably your car running rich; common with EGR malfunctions. A Hayne's Manual would be beneficial in troubleshooting.
  22. 0 points
    End of an era. Due to front end damage Im now deciding to part out my 1995 Mazda 626 Deluxe Hatch rather than fix the radiator support bar. Someone with the time or skill could restore this easily enough but with a bigger family priorities have changed. Someof the items fitted: Digital Climate Control BC Coilovers Upgraded Mazda 6 Front Brakes Full Leather Interior. V6 Manual. Msg me crobson69 At gmail.com or phone me 0447 714 208
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