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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/10/2009 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Found them online a long time ago. Saved them on my computer. Site is down. I didn't have a chance unfortunately to download all the files, there were a lot more specific to doing various installations and removals. All 626 related, they seem intended for years 1999-2002 both i4 and V6 it seems; Wiring diagrams; Air conditioning Cooling Fans Door locks Engine controls Exterior Lights Backup Lamps Circuit Exterior Lights Exterior Lamps Circuit Headlights with DRL Headlights without DRL Horns Interior Lights Power Distribution Power Windows Sound Systems Bose Sound Systems Standard Starting Charging Charging Circuit Starting Charging Starting Circuit Specifications tables; 2.0L (FS) Engines Firing order 1-3-4-2 Distributorless ignition system Alignment Specifications Brake Specifications Capacities Crankshaft & Connecting Rods Specifications Engine & Vehicle Identification General Engine Specifications Piston & Ring Specifications Serpentine drive belt routing--1.5L, 1.8L and 2.0L engines Tire & Wheel Specifications Torque Specifications Valve Specifications Also instructions on how to; [NO PICTURES] Install/remove alternator Install/remove distributor Ignition Timing ADJUSTMENT Install/remove Starter motor Does anyone need them? I'm willing to upload them if someone needs any. Edit: You know what... I'll just upload them. So here you go. Engine Controls 2.0L drawing 1.pdf Engine Controls 2.0L drawing 2.pdf Engine Controls 2.0L drawing 3.pdf Engine Controls 2.5L drawing 1.pdf Engine Controls 2.5L drawing 2.pdf Engine Controls 2.5L drawing 3.pdf Air Conditioning.pdf Cooling Fans.pdf Door Locks.pdf Exterior Lights Backup Lamps Circuit.pdf Exterior Lights Exterior Lamps Circuit.pdf Headlights with DRL.pdf Headlights without DRL.pdf Horns.pdf Interior Lights.pdf Power Distribution.pdf Power Windows.pdf Sound Systems Bose.pdf Sound Systems Standard.pdf Starting Charging Charging Circuit.pdf Starting Charging Starting Circuit.pdf 2.0L (FS) Engines Firing order 1-3-4-2 Distributorless ignition system.pdf Alignment Specifications.pdf Brake Specifications.pdf Capacities.pdf Crankshaft & Connecting Rods Specifications.pdf Engine & Vehicle Identification.pdf Engine Tune-Up Specifications.pdf General Engine Specifications.pdf Piston & Ring Specifications.pdf Serpentine drive belt routing--1.5L, 1.8L and 2.0L engines.pdf Tire & Wheel Specifications.pdf Torque Specifications.pdf Valve Specifications.pdf Alternator INSTALLATION.pdf Alternator REMOVAL.pdf Ignition Timing ADJUSTMENT.pdf Starter Motor REMOVAL & INSTALLATION.pdf Distributor INSTALLATION.pdf Distributor REMOVAL.pdf PRECAUTIONS.pdf
  2. 6 points
    3 Pack of Aviator Sunglasses with Full Mirror Lens $8.95 free shipping http://www.fatwallet.com/best-deals/3-pack-of-aviator-sunglasses-with-full-mirror-lens/
  3. 6 points
    Prize(s): One (1) GRAND PRIZE: Winner
  4. 6 points
  5. 6 points
    This is a repost from another site found by member BOARDMAKER: Smoking from the tailpipe has been a problem with the Mazda 626, MX-6, B2000 and B2200 with FE and F2 engines. These engines have a timing belt driving the camshaft. The problem is not often seen in the chain driven 2.0L engines. The customer's complaint is smoke from the tailpipe after starting a cold engine. This has been a problem since this engine came out on the 1983 Mazda 626. The smoke may be blue or white and it clearly smells like oil. The condition usually happens after exceeding 100,000 miles, but has been experienced with as little as 70,000 miles. The latter can usually be attributed to poor oil and filter maintenance. After the engine has run a few minutes, the smoke usually dissipates. As the engine warms, the oil rings do a better job of sealing. Add a warm catalytic converter cleaning up what gets past, and very little smoke is then seen coming from the tail pipe. The actual amount of oil consumed is usually very low with this problem. The problem is with the oil control rings. Either they become stuck in the groove or, more commonly, the ring is so badly worn that it won't seal well enough to keep the oil off the cylinder wall. If the oil rings are stuck because they are packed with carbon, the owner needs to do a better job of maintenance. In the case of the worn ring, it's still a re-ring job because the oil rings lost the friction battle with the block. The cylinder block has a very high nickel and carbon content, which makes the cylinder walls very hard, so there is little wear on the cylinder. Rarely will you see a ring ridge or any taper to the cylinder. The honing marks may still be visible. In some cases, the oil control rings have been found to be worn so much that the oil control ring spacer/expander has been wearing on the cylinder wall. To repair, clean the ring grooves (a used broken compression ring works great for this), deglaze the cylinders, clean and reassemble. You may want to replace the valve stem seals and do a valve job, if needed. Since the guides for the valves are bronze inserts, there is little wear. Smoking on start-up doesn't always mean valve seals ... in fact, these days it's almost always rings
  6. 5 points
    I had this entire tutorial/walkthrough written up and my browser crashed so for now, this is the abbreviated version. To prevent this from being lost in case my hosted pictures one day flake out, I have attached all of the photos in a pair of ZIP files. Tools: T25 Torx Driver 11/16, 17mm or Adjustable Wrench Bulbs (5 main bulbs are #194, 14 smaller bulbs are #73 bulbs) Note 1: The number of #73 bulbs in your cluster may be slightly different depending on what features your car has. Also, some people have called for #74 bulbs. These are the same size bulbs, but #74 bulbs are about 2.5x as bright and last about 1/10 as long (1,000 hrs vs. 12,000 hrs). Note 2: At various stages it may be helpful to raise or lower your steering column. This seems obvious but I think it's one of those "good lord how did I not think of that" features, so here's your friendly reminder. 1. Remove left dash panel. This panel just pulls away at the front and will swing out towards the door. You don't need to completely remove it as the torx screws you need are along the front edge of the dash. 2. Remove hood release cable bracket (wrench). You only need to turn the nut behind the handle a few times until you can turn the whole assembly and slide it down. 3. Remove 2 left-most torx screws. The lower screw can be hard to get to if you have a long T25 driver. I ended up putting a T25 bit from a universal screwdriver set into a 6mm socket and used a ratchet which was much easier. 4. Remove lower dash panel. This is held in by 3 panel clips (2 left of steering wheel, 1 right) so just pull forward and down firmly but gently. You don't need it completely off, just get the 3 clips to release and it will hang down enough to work. 5. Remove cluster trim. This means removing 4 torx screws. 2 right above the cluster and 2 on each side of the steering wheel that you just revealed by pulling the lower panel. This also means disconnecting all of the electrical switches in the trim panel. Most are easily removed by hand. If you have the 'Swing' feature on your center vents, you can use a small flathead to push down a tab on top of its connector. The hardest connector by far is the power mirror, but luckily you don't have to unhook this. If you are careful you can swing the whole trim panel over the steering wheel and lean it left of the seat, saving you the struggle of this stupid connector. EDIT: As noted by XeNoMoRpH - a small screwdriver can be used to release the mirror switch harness, which would allow you to completely remove the cluster trim panel and set it aside. 6. Remove cluster. This is 4 more torx screws and the cluster will pull straight forward. There are 3 harnesses on the back that are easily removed by hand but mine were a little stiff so I had to wiggle them just a bit. 7. Replace bulbs. Here you can see the back of the cluster. The bulbs are all in plastic housings that require 1/4 turn to release or install. Some of the bulbs have colored "gel" covers on them which you can either (a) try to remove and install on the new bulbs, (b) replace with new gel covers which are sometimes available at parts stores or Wal-Mart, or © decide you don't care right now and just install the plain bulbs. I originally tried (a) but ripped one of the covers, got annoyed and went with ©. I don't think my cluster looks different without the gel covers though it has been a while since my lights went out. In any case, as you can see in the end it still looks normal without the gel covers. 8. Reassemble and marvel at your results. 626gaugelights1.zip 626gaugelights2.zip 626gaugelights1.zip 626gaugelights2.zip
  7. 5 points
    Here is another classic with a twist.
  8. 5 points
  9. 5 points
    its crazy how people will do anything to help them move out, the guy who tried selling me the 626 is now gonna give it to me in trade of helping him move. im really happy right now!
  10. 5 points
    Free ShopRunner.com Account for 1 year, which gives you free 2 day shipping from over 50 major online retailers, including autozone.com Use Code: RUNNER Link: https://www.shoprunner.com/free-shipping/amexplatinum/ Tips: 1. New Accounts Only 2. Credit Card Optional...means optional. And in this case, don't do it. 4. Existing Customers can extend their membership using GMAIL TRICKS http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/1-awesome-gmail-tip-you-dont-know-about-seriously/ More info: http://slickdeals.net/permadeal/86386/shoprunner-free-1year-shoprunner-membership-new-members
  11. 5 points
    2.0L CB engine good for rebuild or parts has alternator a/c fan and shroud inlet with a nikki carby $200ono 5 speed gearbox good as new $250ono clutch heavy duty with flywheel $80ono or complete eng/box with clutch $350ono towbar with tongue $50ono plastic bumpers front/rear ok condition $100ono extractors and exhaust system $100ono radiator in good condition $50ono all parts can be sold or swapped parts i need are 1: lsd diff center that will fit an 81 626 diff housing 2: s1 626 steal bumpers complete in black or chrome 3: front grille for a 81 626
  12. 5 points
    So you mean to tell me you stole somebody elses shower curtain? What kinda person are you going around stealing peoples shower curtains?
  13. 5 points
    Hey guys, I figured I'd repost this. Advance Auto has a discontinued 2-ton engine hoist that is really cheap right now. It is $26.95 (yes, $26.95, no typo). Why so cheap? Apparently that is their model. A discontinued part gets cheaper and cheaper to help move it out. The catch? It can only be bought in store if they have it in stock. I'd recommend calling around. Ask for the SKU # 9040044 I'm going to call around a bit more and see if I can't find one or a couple http://slickdeals.ne...d.php?t=3481186
  14. 5 points
    If you have a nvidia graphics card this is a pretty sick deal, enjoy :D http://www.steamgames.com/nvidia/#
  15. 5 points
    We got an interesting hot deal here: credit card sized pocket flashlight shines twin LED's into a flip-up, light bulb shaped diffuser to produce an ominous glow. $0.99 USD Free Shipping popbuying.com via fatwallet.com
  16. 5 points
    Heres how to get a legit copy of Ashampoo Burning Studio for free. Enjoy! Original Source
  17. 4 points
    I have some 1980 or so Mazda 323 Tail Lights. They are in good condition, though one has a small crack near the reverse light. I'm asking 75 EUR for both, or 40 EUR for one plus shipping. If anyone is interested, I can get pictures. The prices are not definite. Also, I did put this intentionally in this section, as it isn't a 626 thing. I hope this is the right area, but if it isn't, the moderator can feel free to move it somewhere else or even delete it.
  18. 4 points
  19. 4 points
    This deal is for a free sample of Nature's Select dog food. You get to choose between Chicken Rice and Lamb, Chicken with Glucosamine, Lamb and Rice, Wild Alaskan Salmon, High Protein Puppies or Ultra Lite Senior. Get the deal here: NaturalPetFoodDelivery Deal found on: Fatwallet.com I don't know about you all, but I have a puggle at home and when I saw this deal I jumped on it.
  20. 4 points
    hi i have a mazda 626 coupe that i have pulled the engine and 5peed gearbox out of. The engine has done about 275000km the gearbox unknown km the oil in it is clear and the gear changes are smooth the clutch is still good and same for the fly wheel all up i would like $350 ono. thanx
  21. 4 points
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  23. 4 points
  24. 4 points
    Fapping doesn't count as a secret project...
  25. 4 points
  26. 4 points
    So...didn't get too much done today. I went to the j/y to score some body panels but unfortunately no luck. :/ . For whatever reason there seems to be a sudden dearth in PGT's at my local pullapart, all I've been seeing is FS Probes. Went ahead and used some JB Kwik Weld to reinforce the Door Guards and Side Skirts. I went ahead and Macgyvered a way to get the Side Skirts to stay in place while the JB Weld cured: You gotta admit, that's a pretty badass setup.
  27. 4 points
    ---------- Post added at 11:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:39 AM ----------
  28. 4 points
    Here is the Green GC Turbo FINALLY!, its been a while Has a BIT of cosmetic/superficial wear/damage apart from that looks, smells and feels awesome! Has a VLT 35% on side windows and the rear sun louvers on back, Interior hardly has any sun/UV damage becouse of it. Header covers i did a few months ago turned the way i expected, after all i did have to sand most of it cos of the rust being in deep, nice purpleish/blue now Oil catch can, Digital boost gauge, LED Brake/Park/reverse and indicator bulbs, MSD Blaster 3 coil, And custom Number Plates...lol Panoramic view of interior front and back....... Still the factory paint and in swarve condition....... Now she gets to enjoy a few more Queensland sunsets with me.........
  29. 4 points
    Got a 89 Mx6 N/A complete short block, still in good conditions FOR FREE. Going to throw some extra parts. Trying to get all this parts out by today or tomorrow the latest or they are going to the trash. I Live in Los angeles area by downtown. Pm me if you're interested.
  30. 4 points
    What a freakin day. I'm exhausted. Finally got it. What a pain in the ass. Took me another 3 hours today. Use the crane and jack to see-saw it into place. It was like playing Contra. Up, up, down, down, left, right, up, up, down, down, push from the back, pull from the back, etc... Finally got it all lined up and I could feel the splines on the flywheel grab hold. There was a 4mm gap between the engine and trans. Same crap different day with that 4mm gap it seems to crop up no matter what parts I'm working with. Got the bolts started and when you start to tighten them down the gap disappears, the transmission slides onto the dowel pins, and everything seals up. Probably would have been a good idea to lubricate the dowel pins to make it easier to slide the trans on. Any kind of rust on the dowel pins will make the trans near impossible to install. The dowel pins have to be in perfect condition. When you can't get them to match up no matter what you do... it means the trans is resting on the flywheel. Opened this up the next day to see the damage from leaving it like that overnight. A couple of tiny shavings but nothing even minor as a problem. Checked the clutch cover fingers and they were good too. Here's the way I went about it which actually worked. A load balancer is definitely warranted but when you have to make due with 1 chain here's the best routing of the chain to get it somewhat level. When used in conjunction with a jack underneath it's definitely doable. See if you can spot the potential hazard here. Yeah it's stupid but I didn't have another way and too lazy to run up to the hardware store for the millionth time during this project. Surprisingly, it worked without incident, whew. The chain is one long chain. Didn't have a way to connect it so I hung it on the hook and it didn't fit there at all, maybe 2mm of grab. That's all that was holding the entire thing up. Because everything was hanging by a string I moved the crane and jack about 1" at a time being very very cautious. Here's what it looked like from my angle of pulling up on the tranny to get the bolts lined up while working the crane and the jack (not simultaneously). After a couple hours of working on it finally got them to line up without fear of stripping the trans-to-engine bolts. View from the top While inspecting the mating surface I noticed that the trans has quite a bit of overhang. I think this might be evidence of the ATX and MTX blocks being slightly different. Then I jacked up the transmission, bolted in the driver side transmission mount, removed the crane, removed the jack, and she's fully sitting on 2 engine mounts right now by herself. Made some progress today, feels good, gonna get drunk, drink some champange for New Years, and get back to it first thing in the morning.
  31. 4 points
    Active ingredient = Little microscopic pink bunnies with big baskets, running around the engine picking up all the yucky stuff,...hmm
  32. 4 points
    Amazing deals on oilfilters at amazon this week, if your planning that late fall/early winter oil change nows a good time with many filters being $8.00 with free shipping. Enjoy!
  33. 4 points
  34. 4 points
  35. 4 points
    If you're going to attempt to spam a site with your crappy junk faucets for sale, here's some advice: 1) Post on a forum that has something to do with plumbing 2) Get permission to post on said forum (there is usually an advertising fee, welcome to the real business world...no one wants you peddling your cheap junk for free on a site they put hard money and work into you sleazy bastard) 3) Don't reply to a two year old thread that said "I'm throwing out parts tomorrow, come and get them today", and act like you were the OP...you aren't fooling anyone, but you are demonstrating that you are a fool to everyone.
  36. 4 points
  37. 4 points
    Key On Engine Running (KOER) Testing Procedures TO DO A KOER TEST IT IS REQUIRED THAT YOU PASS YOUR KOEO TEST WITH 111. After you have corrected any problems in the KOEO test and have passed with 111 System OK you are now ready to perform the KOER test. This test checks all sensors and engine functions while they are in their normal operating states. This test requires up to three inputs from the driver during the test. The first input requires that the brake pedal be depressed, the second requires that the steering wheel be turned at least one-half turn and then released. Finally on cars equipped with an automatic transmission, the Overdrive Off Switch (O/D) must be activated, then deactivated. As with the KOEO test, the KOER test will repeat codes twice during its display cycle. 1. Have a paper and pen ready so you can write down any codes output by the test. 2. With your reader disconnected from the EEC-IV diagnostic port, start and run the engine at 2,000 RPM for two minutes. This is to bring the heated oxygen sensor and engine to their normal operating temperatures. 3. Shut the engine off, connect your reader, then restart the vehicle (within a reasonable amount of time as long as it's still warmed up, there's no rush). 4. Your reader will flash your Engine ID Code (it's really just a detected cylinder count divided by 2). For example, on a 2.0L Mazda 626 it will pulse two times, on a 2.5L V6 it will pulse three times. (Equus 3145 code reader correctly deciphers it for you and displays 4 for a 2.0L and 6 for a 2.5L). 5. Make sure your steering wheel is straight prior to beginning step 5. Immediately after you see the Engine ID Code; Turn the steering wheel 1/2 turn (power steering input) hold it there for 3 seconds then reset the steering wheel to straight. Depress and release the brake pedal (brake pressure input). Lastly, cycle the overdrive switch on then off (O/D input). Failure to do this correctly will result in many false-positive error codes such as power steering pressure out of bounds, brake vacuum signal undetected, transmission overdrive signal undetected, a couple of other error codes. You won't know which are real codes and which are false positives. It's easier with a code reader but with a check engine light pulses it's a lot of flashes (about 15-20 of them) just to get through the false codes YOU generated by not following procedure. Do it right and avoid the time and hassle of going through false error codes. 6. Dynamic Response Test (code 10 = 1 single pulse separator) for other vehicles. On other vehicles you might see a single pulse that indicates that you should quickly go Wide Open Throttle (WOT). This test checks to verify the functionality of the Throttle Position (TP), Mass Air Flow (MAF), and Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensors. After a pause of 5 to 20 seconds BEFORE the KOER codes, you may receive a Dynamic Response Code (10). This will be a single pulse on your reader that indicates the EEC-IV is requesting a WOT input from you. If you detect this code, briefly depress the throttle to WOT. Failure to do so will generate an error code. In my experience so far, the Mazda 626 with EEC-IV does not request the WOT response prior to KOER codes. So for Mazda 626 owners you can completely skip Step 6, for other vehicles owners (not Mazda 626, MX6, Probe, or Telstar) with EEC-IV that stumble upon this article in the future, step 6 might apply to you. 7. After a pause of about 4 to 15 seconds if everything checks out OK, you should receive a code "111." If not, the EEC-IV will display all trouble codes it has received. It will first display hard faults and then continuous memory codes (KAM). Each code will output twice. Record these code numbers or pulses. 8. Once you have retrieved KOER codes you may turn the car off. Turn the car off with the code reader still attached. Removing the code reader (Equus tool or jumper pin) while the car is still running and in diagnostic mode will clear your codes. 9 After the codes repeat and the KOER is completed you can then perform a cylinder balance test by lightly pushing the acceleration pedal (quarter to half throttle). The cylinder balance test can take 2-5 minutes per cycle and there are 3 cycles (levels) which might be needed to properly complete that test. 10. You can repeat the test as many times as you like to check for consistency (recommend at least twice). --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Some codes might share OBD-I codes but it's best to check for EEC-IV codes first. For a list of EEC-IV codes please visit TroubleCodes.net.Please note that vehicles prior to 1991 use 2 digit codes and 1991+ vehicles use 3 digit codes.
  38. 4 points
    EEC-IV (OBD-I) Diagnostics 1993-1995 Mazda MX-6/626/Ford Probe (2.0L Automatic's Only) Source: http://www.corral.ne...okoer.html#koeo If you have a 1993-1995 automatic there's a good chance your car uses EEC-IV (including MX-6 and Ford Probe). There are code scanners available for EEC-IV diagnostics. Innova Equus 3143 (no LCD) - This is basically a test lamp that you plug into the EEC-IV trapezoidal port. It's just a blinking LED, that's it, nothing more. Your check engine light does the same thing. If you have a 1993 without a check engine light just use a test lamp. The 3143 is fairly useless because a $5 test lamp does the same exact thing. Innova Equus 3145 (LCD) - EEC-IV only scan tool. No live data. Stores code in memory, uses 2 AA batteries, can purchase a 6ft extender cable separately (recommended). Innova Equus 3120 (LCD) - EEC-IV and OBD-II, stores codes, No live data. Innova Equus 3140 (LCD) - EEC-IV and OBD-II, stores codes, If you have an OBD-II car this one streams live data of O2 sensor readings. Expensive but if you have EEC-IV and OBD-II cars in your driveway you might want to think about getting this. 1994 & 1995 Automatics - Find out if your car has Ford EEC-IV diagnostics. 1994 & 1995 Automatics - More Info on using EEC-IV diagnostics. Deciphering EEC-IV codes DaliDesign Mirror on Mazda626.net (EEC-IV Codes) Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Testing Procedures We have covered three separate tools in these articles used to pull codes; we will need to simplify our descriptions from here on. Whether you are using the check engine light & paper clip, test lamp, or code scanner we will simply refer to it as a "reader." The KOEO test is actually 2 tests rolled up into 1. You'll get live fault codes and continuous memory codes. They are 2 separate streams of data both given to you during the KOEO test. During the KOEO test the EEC-IV will output codes twice during its display cycle. For instance if a code 23 and 66 were present the EEC would display 23, 23, 66, 66. The EEC will display codes in the following order: 1. Fast codes - used at the factory and are not readable by most scanners. These are displayed immediately when you start the test. It will look like erratic pulses or maybe one long pulse with different brightnesses. Just ignore it. 2. Hard Fault codes (test 1) - here comes the codes, get a pen. If everything checks out OK, you should receive a code 111. These codes will be repeated twice. 3. Pause of 6 - 9 seconds. 4. Separator Pulse - this pulse signifies the end of the Hard Fault codes. 5. Pause of 6-9 seconds. 6. Continuous Memory (KAM) codes (test 2) - any codes generated during continuous self-test will be displayed here. If everything checks out OK, you should receive a code 111. These codes will be repeated twice. Problems that the ECU has detected over multiple driving cycles are stored in continuous memory (KAM). These are probably your best bet to diagnosing continual issues. Video Tutorial on How To Pull EEC-IV Codes Demonstrates 3 different methods to do the KOEO test on an EEC-IV system. (jumper with check engine light, test lamp, and code reader) Here is an example of EEC-IV output of the slow long pulse "111" Engine OK without KAM trouble codes following. Here is an example of EEC-IV output of the slow long pulse "111" Engine OK with KAM trouble codes following. The KAM codes in this instance are 172 and 181 both of which point to an oxygen sensor fault. The O2 sensor is not included a KOEO test. If this person was to do a KOER test they would likely find the 172 and 181 codes present again. To fix this they would need to replace the O2 sensor, reset the ECU, and clear the codes. Here is an example of EEC-IV output showing code 8 (Mass Airflow Sensor Fault) and 11 (Intake Air Temperature Fault). Notice that code 11 is actually 1 long beep followed quickly by 1 short beep. (10+1=11). A separator pulse can be easily confused with a legitimate 10+ beep. The difference being if it is immediately followed by another set of short beeps in this case it's only 1 short beep so the code equals 11. The following instructions will walk you through the procedures for performing the EEC-IV Key On Engine Off test. 1. Make sure you have a paper and pencil ready so that you can write down any codes output by the KOEO test. 2. With your reader disconnected from the EEC-IV diagnostic port, start and run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 3. Shut the engine off and wait 10 seconds, then connect your reader. 4. With the engine off, and your reader connected, turn the ignition to "Run" but do not start the car. Throughout this test do not depress the throttle! 5. You will hear a few clicks and whirrs from the engine bay as solenoids are activated and sensors are tested. The reader will flash briefly as high speed codes are output by the EEC-IV. These codes are read at the factory and are not intelligible to most scanners. Ignore this flash. 6. If everything checks out OK you should receive a code "111." If not, the EEC-IV will display any errors it has received. Record these code numbers. 7. After a 6 to 9 second pause your reader should flash once, this is a separator pulse to let you know that no more KOEO codes are present. 8. After another 6 to 9 second pause your reader will begin receiving Continuous Memory Codes. If no Continuous Memory Codes are present, you should receive a code "111." If Continuous Memory Codes are present, your EEC-IV will display each code twice. Record these numbers. 9. When all codes have been downloaded turn the ignition to "OFF." 10. If you wish to perform the test again simply wait ten seconds and then go to step four. 11. Check your code readings here and correct any problems, then re-run the KOEO test before continuing on to the KOER test. Note: If you wish to erase your Continuous Memory Codes, deactivate your reader while codes are being output during the KOEO test. Pages of EEC-IV diagnostics can be found in Section F3 of the 1994 Factory Workshop Manual
  39. 4 points
    Found another free car magazine subscription today via Fatwallet for 1 year free of road & track magazine Enjoy 2x for one day! Check out the 1 year free of car and driver here Get one year free here: rewardsgold.com via Fatwallet
  40. 4 points
    Alright ladies and Gents, we know you all avidly work on your cars, and we all know that as summer approaches we all get just that much sweatier working on our cars. So lets give this "high tech t-shirt a shot" and find out if this thing really works. Agion Active is asking folks to test out their new high-tech t-shirt that helps eliminate stinky odors, and then tell them about the experience. There are a limited number of shirts available, so if you think you fit the bill, act now! Grab yours here: Agion Active via Fatwallet
  41. 4 points
    This is a pretty cool little free deal, get a EAS Myoplex Bar or Shake for FREE! All you have to do is fill out the EAS registration form and opt in for their free sample to print off a $3.89 coupon for EAS Myoplex protein bars or shakes. signup here: EAS.com Btw I Chose shake :D
  42. 4 points
    AdvanceAuto ( New Coupon ) $10.00 off $25.00! Usable until December 31 2009! Pretty great deal if you ask me! http://advancegrandopenings.com/ Coupon here: advanced auto 10dollar coupon.bmp Enjoy! Save money on your winter oil change. advanced auto 10dollar coupon.bmp
  43. 4 points
    On November 11th 2009 you can grab a-squared anti-malware for free starting at 11:11 Central European Time More details: http://www.emsisoft.com/en/order/24h/ I personally run Avast for my anti-spyware, anti-malware needs, has anyone used this before?
  44. 4 points
    http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/140amphiouma.html you can click around to find your years and such. very cheap and local in dallas and I know their work is good.
  45. 4 points
    Sorry for the metric units, but i was too lazy to convert them... These data are taken from an auto-shop software, so they should be correct, however i will not take ANY responsibility for any possible damage due to following these specs. Here should be the most essential info on the KL 2.5 24v engine: Volume: 2497 ccm Bore x stroke: 84,5 x 74,2 Compression Ratio: 9,2:1 DIN Hp: 165 @ 5600 RPM Torque Nm: 217 @ 4800 RPM Valve/valveseat angle: 45/45 Compression, bar: 14,02 (min 9,81, max difference 2,0) Oil Pressure: 4,9 @ 3000 RPM / min 3,40 @ 3000 RPM Thermostat opening: 80-84 Celsius Electrode gap: 1,0-1,1 mm Firing Order: 1-2-3-4-5-6 Ignition: 10 degrees BTDC +/- 1 @ 650 RPM Injector Resistance: 12-16 Ohm Coolant Temp. sensor 20 C / 80 C: 2,2-2,7 KOhm / 0,28-0,35 KOhm IAT sensor 20 C / 60 C: 2,0-3,0 KOhm / 0,4-0,7 KOhm Idle speed:
  46. 3 points
    How I imagine Fade26 gets ready before working on her Hachi...
  47. 3 points
    hey guys i have noticed that a couple of you have done the prelude front lip mod. but have any of you painted of been curious on what it would look like body matched. Well i took the plung and i must say i know like alot.
  48. 3 points
    Yeah like a pet. I don't need another pet. I have enough pets already.
  49. 3 points
  50. 3 points
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