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  1. 3 likes
    Just wanted to stop in and wish everyone a happy 626 day. Give your car some love today.
  2. 1 like
    Sounds good, but if need be you can get some gasket material at your local auto parts store for relatively cheep if the junk yard doesn't pan out. If you want to go super cheep you can use the back cover of a paperback book as long as it is big enough and it doesn't have ant raised lettering.
  3. 1 like
    We got some painting done last weekend. :D
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    A bit of decent video. Here is me starting on Saturday. Went from around 32nd taking the green to as high as 3rd. Handed the car off in 5th after nearly 2 hours. and here is another one in the rain of me finishing on Sunday. Was having fun and pushing hard. Maybe too hard!! I backed off after my 2nd spin. Fun to watch at least!
  5. 1 like
    No I didn't because when I went to work on the car It started right up like nothing was wrong at all and it hasn't done it again I'm still lost on the problem I had it checked out but nobody can find the problem some say check the ground that by the starter not the one that on the starter but its another 1 that right by the starter comes from the battery
  6. 1 like
    Sorry took so long to respond, been kind of busy lately. As far as the screw you are referring to if it is the screw below the the spring loaded arm that the cable connects to that is an Allen or hex bolt. You can get a set at any hardware store. They do come in metric and standard sizes, and you may as well get a set of both as you will run into more of them as you learn more about car repair. Before you run out and buy a set though Google a picture of a hex bolt to verify that it is the one you are looking for. The only other screw head I can think it would be an external torx head. Again Google a picture to be sure. And last if you have not changed your air filter yet, do that next. A dirty air filter can cause lugging and lagging as well and it is one of the cheeper easy fixes. Good luck, and hope you are able to further your repair knowledge
  7. 1 like
    Nice what are those side skirts from?
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    I designed a new Mazdarati badge to replace my badges on my 96, but he rear one seems to be riveted on or at least has posts of some sort. Has anyone else removed this one? I just don't want to damage the decklid removing it.
  9. 1 like
    Well to my team's defense, we haven't flat spotted tires in years. But, it was interesting way back when we had new drivers fresh outta their M3 or Cooper S track car joining the team just about every other race and learning that you can't stab the brakes on a gutted 626 with 12.3" monster rotors and no ABS. You apply them causally. Just like you are on a Sunday drive. But, we never had a tire nearly as square as those right rears at WGI. That was fun to figure out how to get that car around the track fast without upsetting it too much. I wasn't too surprised to learn the left rear wheel bearing was shot too. We were all using the rumble strip in turn 1 as a berm all weekend.
  10. 1 like
    Today is a good day to share pics of your 626. I sold my race car. But, I did race with WheelerZ a couple weeks ago. So, here's a pic of WheelerZ and his '93 V6 626 blasting through the bus stop at Watkins Glenn this year. And, here's me getting through turn 1 and headed back up the hill.
  11. 1 like
    We were pleased to receive this in today's delivery. Also ordered a Lifeline 4-liter fire system for the car. Getting close. A couple of more weeks and the car will be ready.
  12. 1 like
    You could try on rockauto.com if you live in the USA.
  13. 1 like
    Well I did eventually find my answer. I know this is dirt simple for most of you guys on the forum, but for some newbies like myself, who come to sites like this seeking step by step instructions, I'll post what worked for me. So here's how I did the flush on my 1995 Mazda 626 automatic transmission. The first step was, after warming up the car with a short drive, to drain the ATF through the trans drain plug. Almost exactly 4 litres came out (I left it to drain overnight because it was late, but probably half an hour would be good). Clean the hole and apply a bit of Loc Tite to the plug threads when reinstalling; just one thin bead once around the plug will do. Fill with 4 litres of Mercon V. That removed about half of the old fluid. The rest needs to be pumped out. I separated the rubber hose from the metal line coming from the bottom of the radiator (put a shop rag under it as there will be about an ounce of fluid leaking out). Get a four foot length of 3/8" ID clear tubing and push it onto the metal line. There's an opening at the bottom, under the battery, where you can push the tubing through. Attach the tubing with a clip onto a clear container with volume marks (I bought a clear 4.4 litre cereal container from WM and put a length of masking tape on the side and using a measuring cup to pour water into the container, marked every half litre). Reaching through the driver's window, I started the car and watched the old oil being pumped into the container. When it got to the one litre mark, I shut off the engine and added one litre of new fluid to the trans. I repeated this procedure until the fluid being pumped changed to the bright red new fluid. I pumped out about 4 litres. Then I removed the tubing and rejoined the rubber hose and metal line. Be sure to add a little bit less fluid than what came out, just so you don't end up with it being overfull when you check the level after it's warmed up. It's easy to add a bit more fluid to top it off, but a bit of a pain to have to drain fluid again. Start the engine and move the gearshift lever through all positions, pausing at each one for a few seconds so the fluid goes everywhere it's supposed to. Then measure the level. You don't want it completely to the top of the gridmarks yet, as the trans is not fully warmed up. I went for a five minute drive, getting up to highway speed for a couple of minutes to make sure the trans was warm. Then I measured the level and topped up as needed, a bit at a time so as not to overfill. Hope this helps someone down the road. Cheers Ross
  14. 1 like
    3,000 RPM doesn't seem all that high to me. If the shift is particularly rough, you may want to inspect the engine/transmission mounts.
  15. 1 like
    You might be able to bypass the horn honk/light blink part, but not the immobilizer. That feature is internal to the ECU.