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  1. 1 point
    yes u are right actually ı am the 3. owner this car came from belgim
  2. 1 point
    Hi guys I have a 95 626 with 2.0 auto. I've watched a few videos on draining and flushing the trans fluid, but after searching for a couple of hours, I still can't find a missing piece of info that I thought would be easy to find. I've drained as much of the fluid as I can (overnight) through the drain plug and replaced the plug. After replenishing with the same amount of fluid as I removed, I plan to disconnect one of the lines and have a helper start the car so the old fluid is pumped out, while at the same time I'll add fluid via the filler. And I'll let my helper know to turn off the engine when the fluid being pumped out changes to the new bright red fluid. But I don't know which line I disconnect to pump out the bulk of the remaining old fluid? I don't want to do a 50/50 guess and end up with a mess of fluid. On this particular vehicle, does the trans pump push fluid to the top of the radiator or the bottom? Thanks Ross
  3. 1 point
    Ebay, if it is easier for you. Here are some examples. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mazda-626-1983-1987-New-KYB-Brand-Front-Right-Strut-Assembly-433013-/311957634846?epid=1129550440&hash=item48a21fbf1e:g:m74AAOxyjzNRGEGn&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/KYB-233008-Suspension-Strut-Assembly-Front-Left-fits-83-87-Mazda-626-/272274193999?epid=75315000&hash=item3f64ce7e4f:m:meD2BEZ66XnZl4mwSEaN5kA&vxp=mtr
  4. 1 point
    You have contributed more then you think. i was looking for someone to mention something I may have overlooked And we pretty much went right down the line and I feel pretty confident my problem will be solved once this is all done. How I wish I dident dicker those new bearings up because it would probably be all together by now that's the only part I'm second guessing as of now. However I thank you for brainstorming with me and I will have a walk around video of this baby purring in due time.
  5. 1 point
    A quick double check of the specs, new bearings and it should be good! I was going to say a failing pressure plate could also cause bucking too sometimes, disregard that its fine, see above. Hopefully I didn't make you second guess yourself - I just wondered if there was a powertrain issue contributing.
  6. 1 point
    I think someone was treating the car as a high power drag car while the transmission was meeting its slow demise.... All of the mtx parts were sourced form a mx6 turbo, transmission, pedal Assmbly. New master new slave cyl. Shifter linkage has all new bushings, I machined the flywheel myself to 0.020" all new engine mounts. Even put a mtx throttle body on in. I can't remember what else. But everything was used with exception of master and slave cyl engine mounts and the clutch assembly. This will be the end all tell all. If the problem exists after the new engine bearings (doubt it will so long I do it right) the transmission will be coming back out.
  7. 1 point
    Most auto part stores have a "loan a tool" program. Most have the puller. Yes on the threaded holes 1. no 2. n/a 3. no 4. no. if you clean up the shaft and some oil. you can get it to slide on. Don't forget the wooddruft key. This may be some help: https://mazda626.net/topic/21663-changing-your-timing-belt-and-water-pump/#comment-192862
  8. 1 point
    You really need to google the sleeve thing. It will not repair a harmonic balancer that has come apart. It's to prevent oil leaks. The rubber you saw is what keeps the 2 pulleys together. It's one piece.
  9. 1 point
    Rockauto.com from $46 to $140. Not repairable. Replace your timing belt while you are there.
  10. 1 point
    Not my scan. Well the "last train" an old Monkeys song". Really doesn't matter what engine. The alternator stuff is the same. 98/99 same stuff
  11. 1 point
    It may pay to have a look at the crank for runout too and see if it is within spec, check the thrust and clearances, use plastigauge. This way you'll know for sure everything is good in the bottom end.
  12. 1 point
    Thanks for the reply. That's what I figured. I deffently don't want to do it again lol I have a set coming for Monday hopefully by Tuesday I'll have a video of her running again. I probably would be okay with these bearings but it's not something I'd like to risk. Thanks again!
  13. 1 point
    98 should be the same: http://www.pmx626.info/index.php?dir=US%2FMazda+626+%26+MX-6%2FWork+Shop+Manuals%2FPDF%2F
  14. 1 point
    I'm high and dry here in Dallas. I got the heck out of Houston last week before the weather got bad. I commute between Dallas and Houston these days. Dallas is technically home, but I keep a my camping trailer down in Houston and stay there when I'm working there. I know better than to ride out a hurricane in an RV park :-) No telling if I'll find my trailer in the same condition I left it in last week though. I installed the digital gauges to minimize the wild variety numbers new drivers read off over the radio. I'd get numbers varying more that 20 degrees depending on the driver. But, I was a bit disappointed by the visibility of those digital gauges. They had a lot of glare and low contrast. Relocating them might have helped some. But, I didn't bother. I'm not surprised you chose to replace them. Analog gauges with idiot lights was another consideration. That's a good setup for arrive and drive racers too. Absolute accuracy wasn't the priority as long as the values are relative. They were and we could tell when things were going good or bad. I think there were three different temp sensors on the coolant manifold. One for the ECU, and old one from the previous gauge, and the new one. So, no telling how it got wired up. To be honest, what does better accuracy really buy you in the end? What temp, pressure, or voltage are you going to call a driver in preemptively? We learned that you will drive the car as long as it's driveable. After all this is LeMons, Chump, or WRL. It's a cheap motor/transmission. Drive it as long as you can and fix it before the next race weekend.
  15. 1 point
    Late reply, but the EGR ports are cast as part of the intake manifold and rear cylinder head. The EGR valve itself is attached directly to the back of the rear head under the throttle body area. From there it is a tube that runs from the valve, under the rear exhaust manifold, and then loops around and taps into the exhaust on the passenger side of the manifold. See the attached pic. You can see where the tube is cast in the manifold. If the throttle body is off you can reach in and feel the other end inside the manifold.
  16. 1 point
    Leev, pretty much anything that doesn't seem available anymore I would consider. For example, the stuff below that I'm about to go over, I would love one that isn't broken/repaired. It took me all day, but I mostly repaired the turn signal. I removed the steering wheel and found a random spring and this piece broken. I looked around and figured it out. Attached is a picture of how it is on my Miata (I was hoping I could use the part from it) The spring sits on the white piece and puts pressure on the metal ball. That ball goes into the grooves (left signal, neutral, right signal) and gives the audible click noise. Seems easy enough to repair, right? It took me three attempts: JB-quik epoxy (failed) Super glue and JB-quik epoxy (failed when installing) Drilled the two pieces, inserted metal rod from a clothpin, super glue, and JB-quik (maybe?) I tried it for about 10 minutes. I am already thinking of my 4th, 5th, and 6th attempt on what I will try (additional support with metal, remaking the whole thing in metal, transplanting the whole Miata piece over because I feel I can make it work) I have to fix the speedometer next followed by the ignition/fuel/vacuum issue, which ever of the three it is. Sometimes on start, it takes a lot longer to fire up. When I hit any sort of boost, the car shutters and bucks.
  17. 1 point
    There is no difference. You can get vintage plates like what I have on my MG which go up until 1972. After that, the year is no longer part of the plate and you get a generic antique plate (black with white text or yellow with black text). It varies on how police enforce it. I feel like I mentioned the 3, but who knows where. It gets awesome fuel mileage (54mpg when I really try). I've raced it more than my Miata in the past two years which is sad. Anyway, happy to get this moving again.
  18. 1 point
    Thanks for the video post. Now, I have something to study to help learn the track before I come out and race with you guys next month. Is there a Friday practice day? Are you planning to have the car there for the team to get familiar with it and the track?
  19. 1 point
    We got some painting done last weekend. :D
  20. 1 point
    So its been a while since the last update. I had some strange sounds and the star started to behave iffy when driving this winter. I dont drive it much anymore since i my work has moved to an office where its faster and cheaper to take the bus/bike. The problem ended up being a broken rear spring. So i jumped on the fix-paint-upgrade train right away. First i went mental on Rockauto, and ordered every piece in the suspension new. The only items i didnt order was steering parts, and the Koni inserts. Everything else between the wheel and chassi is new. I started the teardown by getting out the shocks and started to refurbush the, They are badly rusted from years in the salt, so they needed some serious work. Only one of them came out easy, this was one of the rear shocks. The other rear shock needed some convincing, but came out in the end as well. The two front ones didn't budge, so i had to cut and drill the bolts. I then had them mounted in a lathe and redid the threads properly. Since RockAuto had some super cheap chinese brand shocks, i treated myself a set of brand new donor shocks for the inserts. I cut them, and then drilled the hole in the bottom for the bolts. Then painted them properly, and soaked the inside with anti-rust oil. The rest of the suspension parts where in a sad state, so they went straight to be sandblasted. I had a full King6 suspension setup, but im only keeping the trailing arms. It got to stiff and noisy for me as i am getting older. Im also making sure the new parts aint gona rust, so im painting them with a few extra layers of Hammerite, before covering them with anti-rust stuff: And i also decided that i needed another car: So now i have three 94 mod Mazdas :) This one will be a more track and fun driven budget project.
  21. 1 point
    Well I did eventually find my answer. I know this is dirt simple for most of you guys on the forum, but for some newbies like myself, who come to sites like this seeking step by step instructions, I'll post what worked for me. So here's how I did the flush on my 1995 Mazda 626 automatic transmission. The first step was, after warming up the car with a short drive, to drain the ATF through the trans drain plug. Almost exactly 4 litres came out (I left it to drain overnight because it was late, but probably half an hour would be good). Clean the hole and apply a bit of Loc Tite to the plug threads when reinstalling; just one thin bead once around the plug will do. Fill with 4 litres of Mercon V. That removed about half of the old fluid. The rest needs to be pumped out. I separated the rubber hose from the metal line coming from the bottom of the radiator (put a shop rag under it as there will be about an ounce of fluid leaking out). Get a four foot length of 3/8" ID clear tubing and push it onto the metal line. There's an opening at the bottom, under the battery, where you can push the tubing through. Attach the tubing with a clip onto a clear container with volume marks (I bought a clear 4.4 litre cereal container from WM and put a length of masking tape on the side and using a measuring cup to pour water into the container, marked every half litre). Reaching through the driver's window, I started the car and watched the old oil being pumped into the container. When it got to the one litre mark, I shut off the engine and added one litre of new fluid to the trans. I repeated this procedure until the fluid being pumped changed to the bright red new fluid. I pumped out about 4 litres. Then I removed the tubing and rejoined the rubber hose and metal line. Be sure to add a little bit less fluid than what came out, just so you don't end up with it being overfull when you check the level after it's warmed up. It's easy to add a bit more fluid to top it off, but a bit of a pain to have to drain fluid again. Start the engine and move the gearshift lever through all positions, pausing at each one for a few seconds so the fluid goes everywhere it's supposed to. Then measure the level. You don't want it completely to the top of the gridmarks yet, as the trans is not fully warmed up. I went for a five minute drive, getting up to highway speed for a couple of minutes to make sure the trans was warm. Then I measured the level and topped up as needed, a bit at a time so as not to overfill. Hope this helps someone down the road. Cheers Ross
  22. 1 point
    I really fail at updating, sorry. Regarding the crash; My best guess, and from what I found, the front left wheel locked up. The caliper somehow lost the top bolt and rotated against the wheel (I think). There was a deep gouge in the rotor. Something locked up. You can hear the one tire squealing in the video, I wasn't braking after I felt it slip, but one wheel was. Stopping power has increased, and it feels okay. However, I still have clapped out drums in the back. I have new rear rotors, bearings and seals waiting. I'll do a rear disk swap very soon. The head gasket blew (or headbolts just stretched) maybe 2 months ago while trying to stay neck and neck with a MKIII supra.. But it made very little impact on 'driveability', as the coolant wasn't mixing yet, and it just drank a jug of coolant every one/two weeks or so. Last saturday it finally mixed and was smoking at idle. I had to get to work on sunday so I drove on it, but monday morning I started the head swap. 10-4 two days, all done. -Good, reman head, new gasket (duh) -ARP head studs -Colt Tri-Flow cam Compressing, removing, and reinstalling dual valve springs with even a pretty good dedicated tool, is a nightmarish hellscape. I never want to do it again. I'm paying a cylinder head shop to do it. Takes me 1 hour to do one cylinder, 3 springs. (compress, remove, swap, compress, reinstall). Those tiny valve keepers can go ahead and #### themselves. Only pictures I took: It's back to full health. But I probably didn't mention the headgasket in the first place.
  23. 1 point
    Straight weight 30 or 40 is much different than 10w30. I suggest reading up on it a bit. Are you sure you're not supposed to be 5w30? I have a 1996 626 and it's 5w30 all the way.
  24. 1 point
    I also had a little photoshoot with the RX7. I Promised my friends we would go take some photos before the winter, and we barely made it!
  25. 1 point
    Finally i got the RX-7 put back together. New 99-spec front, some nice bits under the hood, including new vacuum hoses. Just in time for the yearly Japanese car meeting. Even managed to score 1st place for best shine! :D
  26. 1 point
    Took the 626 to the track this weekend :D Was awesome!
  27. 1 point
    Tried some Autoslalom today :D
  28. 1 point
    Thanks for the post with the pictures!
  29. 1 point
    I'm swapping the skin/cushion from a good condition Pase enter LS seat I got from the junkyard to my Driver's seat. This is the junkyard LS passenger seat (donor) Let the experiment begin Took apart the donor seat My ripped driver seat (host) Bottom comparison, slightly different in the front . But the actual foam is exactly the same. Swap complete :) , putting it back together. Seat feels good since is from a 96 so a little newer lol. This took hours to do, glad to add another skill to my list haha , should be easier next time if ever have to I'll post a pic one its back in the car
  30. 1 point
    Here is a picture of my stereo installed.
  31. 1 point
    now for the fun, putting all back together... get some high temp rtv sealant and go around the upper oil pan. place oil pan on car and do up 2-3 bolts to hold it up... do the same for the lower oil pan, not forgetting to put the oil pickup back on... don't worry if a bit squidges out, this is normal... now put those big bell housing bolts back... replace the starter motor if you removed it and this bracket if you removed it... replace the head and any gaskets and bolts don't forget the two 90 degree turns... replace your camshafts, and thusly your cambelt... reset the timing as needed... replace the water exchange block and the intake manifold and the throttle body and the air box and air scoop don't forget the valve cover and lastly the exhaust downpipe... CHECK: oil level refill the coolant any and all electrical connections sparkplugs and wires belts are tensioned properly power steering pipes are connected fuel lines are correctly installed don't forget the brake booster vacuum pipe while you're at it check all the other vacuum pipes make sure all the coolant lines are attached check the oil level again place two hands together, wrack your brains for anything you've forgotten, then say a quick prayer to the gods of the 626... ladies and gentlemen, start your engines.... give yourself a biscuit, that was one of the most involved things you'll ever do to a car... (unless you restore them for a living) EDIT: the burn in pictures are a bit useless, so i'll describe it in text. after approximately 400-600 miles you'll need to do an oil change with filter replacement, this wil get rid of the minute metal particles that the piston rings have worn away after the honing job. be aware that the "burn" in period is named so because you will lose a small amount of oil, i lost approximately 500 ml or half a litre. approximately half a quart. this is normal and after your second oil change at the normal service interval your oil loss should have disappeared... IMPORTANT NUMBERS: these specs should all be checked as you go along. write them down and check at the relevant points piston diameter: 82.954-82.974 mm piston to cylinder clearance: 0.039-0.052 mm (maximum: 0.15) ring gap clearance: top, 0.035-0.065 mm 2nd, 0.030-0.065 mm maximum (on both) 0.085 ring end gap: top 0.15-0.3mm (maximum: 0.5) 2nd 0.15-0.3mm (maximum: 0.5) oil 0.2-0.7mm (maximum: 0.9) IMPORTANT TORQUES: these are the bolts that actually require a torque wrench, not a left handed hammer to do up... big end bolts: 25 NM upper oil pan: 25 NM oil pickup: 10 NM lower oil pan: 25 NM cylinder head bolts: 22NM the cylinder head bolts must then be tightened by 90 degrees and then a further 90 degrees camshaft bolts: 15 NM
  32. 1 point
    Well first off welcome to the forum! This is a pretty awesome undertaking and I highly recommend to take tons of pictures along the way and post em in out projects section: http://www.mazda626....projectsbuilds/ Chances are The more info/progress we see of the car along the way, the more advice/input you will get. Almost like your advertising to get more advice, so to speak Now I'm definitely no racer, but if it was me doing an endurance race. I would start from the ground and move up. Often its skilled drivers who have a car that can brake/handle like a dream that win versus raw power(which unless you go Forced Induction, the I4 just won't have it). Lighterweight used wheels + tires preferably. Something with a low profile tire if u can find it. never know what your going to find on craigslist for cheap, if you can't get em cheap don't bother, especially with the low budget project like this. Suspension, If you can combover local junkers for a Ford Contour SE, Rear Sway-bar is 19mm and a damn good upgrade, I forget what comes with the 4 cyl 199 LX 16mm maybe? But each mm thicker you go you dramatically increase the benefit. Buy/Make Some strut-tower bars. Many forget that you can do it in the rear of the car on the 98+ because the strut towers aren't exposed in the trunk, you just gotta cut away material covering the rear strut bar, you gain access to them by removing the back seats. Piece of cake cut. Its a 99 so the springs are still most likely holding there own, depending on how much the previous owner beat on it. I wouldn't bother with new springs unless you get a killer deal on em. If you have any drum brakes you can easily swap them out to es v6 disc brakes, or even mazda6 brakes(bigger), theres a few guides son here of how to do that I believe. These should be a piece of cake to get from the junkers. As far as engine/exhaust stuff goes I don't know much about the I4, but personally I wouldn't waste that much money for a cherrybomb, seems expensive for marginal gains you will get. I'm sure everyone else will chime in after me with more recommendations :)
  33. 1 point
    I just replaced the left axle on my '93. The manual (like the PDF above) told me to take off the transverse member as well as the engine mount member. With those in the way, I just couldn't get good leverage to pop the axle out. Once they were out of the way, things popped like they should.
  34. 1 point
    guttin it doesnt give any ponie if you are natural aspirated. I guted mine to make turbo spool faster
  35. 1 point
    Bulletins for 1993 Mazda 626 L4-1991cc 2.0L DOHC Service Bulletins TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title 1. 0101899 MAY 99 Year 2000 - Computer Systems Compliance 2. K00598 DEC 98 A/T Cooler/Line - Flushing Procedure 3. B00598 DEC 98 Camshaft Friction Gear - Tapping Noise 4. F01498 DEC 98 Throttle Adjustment Screw - Adjustment Precaution 5. G00198 OCT 98 Battery - Dies In A relatively Short Period Of Time 6. ST00598 AUG 98 NGS System - Reprogramming Service 7. S0901898 JUL 98 Door Weatherstrip - Wind Noise Around Doors 8. ST00398 JUL 98 Special Tools - Storage Cabinet 9. N00196 APR 98 N00196 - 04/15/98 10. N00198 APR 98 Steering Wheel - Slightly Off Center. 11. ST00198 FEB 98 Star Tester - New Version Program Cards 12. S02397 DEC 97 Paint - Cracking on Horizontal Surfaces 13. T01697 DEC 97 Room Lamp - Does Not Illuminate 14. N00497 DEC 97 Steering Gear - Fluid Loss 15. S01997 OCT 97 Door Window - Comes Off Track 16. S02097 OCT 97 Bumper - Painting Preparation 17. J00397 OCT 97 M/T - Overhaul Information 18. U01397 AUG 97 Blower Motor - Noises/Passenger Carpet Damp 19. S01897 JUL 97 Cigarette Lighter - Replacement 20. S01497 JUL 97 Window Regulator - Replacement Procedure 21. G00197 JUN 97 Battery - Diagnosis/Service 22. T01397 JUN 97 Wiper Motor - Inoperative/Circuit Breaker Operation 23. U00897 MAY 97 A/C System - Tracer Dye Leak Detection 24. T00797 APR 97 Air Bags - Replacement After Deployment 25. T00497 APR 97 Electrical - Terminal/Connector Replacement 26. S00497 MAR 97 Front Door Glass Run Channel - Out Of Position 27. ST00297 MAR 97 Special Tools - Storage Cabinet System 28. U00597 MAR 97 A/C - O-Ring Replacement 29. R00197 MAR 97 Stabilizer Bar Bushings - Replacement Procedure 30. S00197 FEB 97 Door Side Molding - Comes Off In Extreme Cold 31. AD00397 FEB 97 Speedometer - Replacement Procedure 32. AD00297 FEB 97 Technical Assistance Hotline 33. T02396 DEC 96 Air Bag System - Effect of Aftermarket Accessories 34. F02896 DEC 96 Air Flow Meter - Service Precautions 35. G00396 DEC 96 Battery - Ignition OFF Draw Current Diagnosis 36. S05496 DEC 96 Front Console - Service Parts Availability 37. S03296 DEC 96 Seat Belt - Extender Availability 38. U00996 OCT 96 A/C Refrigerant - Recommendations 39. U00696 SEP 96 A/C - Intermittent Operation 40. S01996 SEP 96 Outer Door Handle - Loose/Rattles 41. F02296 SEP 96 Throttle Body - Stalling/Rough or Rolling Idle 42. S03796 AUG 96 Windshield - Stone Chipping Inspection 43. R00396 JUL 96 Stabilizer Links - Knocking Noise On Bumps 44. E00296 JUN 96 Reconditioned Anti-Freeze - Recommendations 45. S02896 JUN 96 Seat Belt - Will Not Retract/Hard to Pull Out 46. F01496 JUN 96 Fuel - California Reformulated Gasoline 47. F01396 MAY 96 Fuel Volatility - Driveability Concerns 48. S02096 MAY 96 Sunroof - Sunshade Rattling Noise 49. F01296 APR 96 ISC Valve - Rough Idle/Miss Under Load 50. T00796 APR 96 CPU - Troubleshooting Procedures 51. R00196 APR 96 Front Strut - Squeaks On Turns 52. T00596 APR 96 Headlight Switch - Replacement 53. F00496 FEB 96 Fuel Pump/Sender - Non-Interchangeability 54. S00696 JAN 96 Wiper Arm - Rattling Noise From Right Hand Side 55. U01295 NOV 95 A/C Compressor - Noise Replacement Criteria 56. AD00295 NOV 95 Vehicle - Storage Management 57. ST00895 OCT 95 A/C - R134a Training/Equipment Requirements 58. K00395 OCT 95 A/T Overdrive Switch - Inoperative 59. T01295 OCT 95 Fuel Gauge - Reads 3/4 Full When Tank is Full 60. U00995 SEP 95 A/C - O Ring Replacement 61. S02895 SEP 95 Passenger Side Cowl - Creak/Rattle Noise 62. K00295 AUG 95 A/T - Repair Policies 63. S02695 JUL 95 Door Side Molding - Detaches in Extreme Cold 64. B01095 JUN 95 Engine - Idle Vibration 65. K00195 JUN 95 A/T Shift Lever - Will Not Move From Park 66. S01995 JUN 95 Muffler Bracket - Rattling Noise 67. P00295 MAY 95 Front Brakes - Grinding/Groaning Noise 68. U00795 MAY 95 A/C Relay Failure - Insufficient Cooling 69. P00195 APR 95 Brakes - Judder/Vibration/Pulsation 70. ST00295 APR 95 Required Tools - Inventory List 71. G00295 APR 95 Battery - Diagnostic/Charging Procedure 72. B00595 MAR 95 HLA - Noise After Long Storage 73. N00595 MAR 95 Steering Wheel - Is Slightly Off Center 74. U00395 FEB 95 Heater Unit Case - Modification 75. S01095 FEB 95 Sunroof - Rattle Noise 76. U00195 FEB 95 Receiver Dryer - Replacement Criteria 77. B00195 JAN 95 Engine - Valve Seal Identification 78. N00195 JAN 95 Pre Alignment - Specifications 79. ATRATB294 JAN 95 A/T - Drive Axle and Wheel Lug Nut Torque Specifications 80. N00394 DEC 94 Alignment - Background Information & Specifications 81. T00894 DEC 94 Door Key Cylinder - Does Not Illuminate 82. B00994 DEC 94 Engine Valve Seal - Identification 83. N00294 DEC 94 Steering Gear - Clunk Noise While Turning Vehicle 84. S02194 NOV 94 Door/Hatch Lock Cylinders - Frozen 85. S03394 NOV 94 Mirror, Rearview - Falls Off 86. ST00294 NOV 94 Tools - Shipment Of NGS Program Card Version 2.0 87. ST00394 OCT 94 Brakes - Use On Car Brake Lathe to Correct Judder 88. E00194 OCT 94 Coolant - Propylene Glycol Based Not Recommended 89. K00294 OCT 94 A/T - Diagnostic Procedures 90. S03294 OCT 94 Ash Tray - Will Not Open or Opens Unintentionally 91. B00894 OCT 94 Engine - HLA Noise Heard After Long Idle 92. S03594 OCT 94 Seat, Driver's - Squeaking Noise 93. S03094 SEP 94 Console Cup Holder - Bowtie Pops Off 94. S03194 SEP 94 Door - Weather Strip Damage 95. S02894 SEP 94 Door Trim Panels - R&R Procedure 96. S02994 SEP 94 Headliner - Rattle 97. S02594 JUL 94 Power Seat - Will Not Operate 98. S02094 JUL 94 Air Dam Skirt, Front - Loose 99. AD00594 JUL 94 Key - Replacement Guidelines 100. B00494 JUN 94 Engine - Partial Repair Components Available 101. S02094 MAY 94 Air Dam Skirt, Front - Loose at Crossmember 102. W01294 MAY 94 PS, Engine Controls - Service Manual Updates 103. U00194 APR 94 A/C - 0 Ring Replacement 104. S01894 APR 94 B Pillar Door Sash - Gaps are Too Narrow 105. S01394 APR 94 Door Glass - Comes Off Track, Binding, or Inoperative 106. S01294 MAR 94 Mirrors, A Pillar - Wind Noise 107. B00594 MAR 94 Engine - Hydraulic Lifter Noise In New Vehicles 108. F00194 MAR 94 Throttle Position Sensor - Revised Inspect & Adjustment 109. F00194 FEB 94 Throttle Position Sensor - New Inspection & Adjustment 110. P00194 JAN 94 Brakes, Front - Grind or Groan 111. S05293 DEC 93 Door Key Illumination - Inoperable 112. P00593 DEC 93 Front Brakes - Grind or Groan 113. B00993 DEC 93 Intake and Exhaust Valve Seals - Identification 114. U00393 NOV 93 A/C - R134a Service Precautions/Parts Differences 115. S04693 NOV 93 Sunroof - Binds During Operation 116. ATRATB188 OCT 93 A/T - G4A-EL Retrieving Trouble Codes 117. G00293 SEP 93 Electronic Devices/Electrical - Diagnosis and Repair 118. G00393 SEP 93 Battery - Diagnostic and Charging Procedures 119. T00593 AUG 93 Fuel Gauge - Reads 3/4 Full With Full Fuel Tank 120. U00293 JUL 93 A/C - R12 Warning Labels 121. S03593 JUL 93 Headliner - Rattling Noise In Rear of Headliner 122. Q00593 JUN 93 Tire Chains - Installation Precautions 123. T00393 MAY 93 Theft Deterrent System - Malfunction 124. F00593 APR 93 Emission Inspection Test - Proper Preparation 125. Z01693 MAR 93 Cruise Control - Body Electrical Manual Revision 126. T00293 MAR 93 Air Bag - Service Information 127. F00193 JAN 93 Fuel Injector - Cleaner Kit for Improved Performance 128. T02092 DEC 92 Window Defroster, Rear - Operation 129. AD02892 NOV 92 Emissions - Proof of Recall Correction Certificate 130. S05492 NOV 92 License Plate Bracket - Falls Out of Position During R&R 131. K01892 NOV 92 A/T - Key Cannot Be Removed from Ignition Switch 132. Q00592 NOV 92 Aluminum Wheel Cap - Discoloring/Yellowing 133. T01792 SEP 92 Antenna Mast - Service/Replacement 134. F02992 SEP 92 Engine - Miss/Hesitation During Hard Cornering 135. W02592 JUL 92 ABS - Workshop Manual Correction for DTC 15 136. Z00492 JUL 92 ABS - Revised Wiring Diagram 137. Q00291 JUL 92 Tires - Inspection and Adjustment Procedures 138. S04192 JUL 92 License Plate Bracket - Installation 139. F01892 MAY 92 Fuel - Using Premium Grade Improves Driveability 140. AD02592 MAY 92 PDI - Inspection Process 141. ATRATB078 NOV 91 A/T - How To Use A Pressure Gauge 142. ATRATB028 OCT 90 A/T - Engine Vacuum Testing 143. ATRATB9002006 FEB 90 A/T - Choosing the Right ATF 144. ATRATB8930 OCT 89 A/T - Math Part II 145. ATRATB8927 SEP 89 A/T - Twenty Steps To Successful Repairs 146. ATRATB8923 AUG 89 A/T - Math Formulas Part I 147. ATRATB8754 SEP 87 A/T - Front Bushing Wear 148. ATRATB8748 AUG 87 A/T - Slipping or No-Shift/Metal Sealing Rings