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  1. Today
  2. Hi there, I already know that I'm probably looking for the holy grail - but if anyone have a pair of these mirros, and is willing to sell them to me without killing my pocket I would be very happy. Would need to be shipped to germany with me paying all costs of course. Picture by Rotated6_2 (is that Philip?). Cheers, Benni
  3. Hi there, I just wanted to say hello. This is my 1979 Mazda 626 CB2 Coupé. I bought this car from a collection earlier this year. I owned different british classics and, believe it or not, I am still a huge British Leyland nut. Anyways, I've been always interested in japanese classics, and when my Reliant Scimitar made more and more problems this crossed my way. I'm very happy with it. It's the humble 1.6 in poverty spec. Cheers, Benni
  4. Yesterday
  5. Summer has begun, which makes it a great time to catch up on vehicle maintenance! And to make now an even better time to inspect and replace your vehicles' worn out parts, over 30,000 of our already low, Wholesaler Closeout priced parts have been discounted another 50-70%! Find Air Filters, Brake Pads, Hydraulic Hoses, Spark Plugs, Tie Rod Ends, Wheel Cylinders and so much more by many top manufacturers such as ACDelco, Beck/Arnley, Bendix, Purolator and Raybestos for as low as $1. As always, Wholesaler Closeouts are in limited quantities. We may get hundreds of one part number and only ten of another. Even if you do not see a Wholesaler Closeout, continue to check out the many other parts listed for your vehicles. Our regular inventory contains a wide selection of parts from top-name manufacturers, always at the reliably low prices you expect. RockAuto.com makes keeping your trusted daily driver on the road even more fun. Agonize over win-win decisions like, "Should I get the $3 set of brake pads for my '93 Nissan Sentra or can I splurge and buy the $6 pads made by my favorite brand?" View Closeout Parts for any Vehicle in the RockAuto.com Catalog! 1. Click the RSS icon next to your vehicle's engine size 2. Click the HTML icon next to "Love a Bargain?"
  6. I parked on an incline today and spotted water flowing away from underneath my 1997 Mazda 626LX 4cly 2L. Got home and had a peak with flashlight. Small amount of water, maybe 1/2 cup, after a climb into the hills. The water is dripping from a small rubber hose that sticks out about an inch from the left back wall of the engine compartment. I suppose that's the function of that little hose but it doesn't seem natural that it's doing that. Most cars don't have little puddles of water forming under the car after running a few minutes. What's up with this? This car doesn't get a whole lot of use, only around 1000mi/year. It has under 33,000 miles on it. Probably unrelated but I took the same ~10 mile round trip a few days ago (including 800 foot climb into the hills) and something seemed wrong. It seemed to act like the idle was set too low, like it was about to stall out, but it didn't. Whatever that was seems to have stopped happening, it was just that one day.
  7. Last week
  8. Is this the FS (inline 4) or KL (V6)? If you haven't yet, grab a factory service manual at http://www.pmx626.info. If will go over the testing procedures. It seems like you are doing the correct procedures. Jumping the wire from pin 30 to pin 87 (bypassing the relay essentially) should activate the fuel pump. The fuse would be under the hood and is labeled as "EGI ING" (30 amps).
  9. I have a question or 10 about a fuel issue. So bought this car -98 626 LX - for my daughter, it ran fine when we parked it about 6 months ago. I went to start it up and it ran for about 5 secs and then shut down and would not restart. I bought some starting fluid and when I use it it will run and then dies. So I started searching the internet about relays fuses etc. and I bought what I think is the right relay but there is still nothing. I cannot locate an actual fuse for the fuel pump just the relay. I bought a new fuel filter for it and changed it out, before I put the new one in I put a rag over the fuel line going to the filter and had the wife crank it over and no fuel. I tried to jumper by following something I saw here- (pulled relay and put a jumper wire from pin 30 to body ground) and see if fuel pump would run manually and there nothing. At no time during any of this did I ever hear the fuel pump either. I did replace the 100 amp main fuse also because I destroyed it trying to take it out so that is new as well ( I saw a video on how to PROPERLY remove the fuse). I saw the video of the guys cutting the floor out to change fuel pump but I really don’t want to do that but I want to make sure I am doing everything to make sure there is not another issue. I.e. wiring. I guess I am looking for a little advice or some help to make sure I am going down the right path. I am guessing I should be able to drop the tank and put a meter on the wires going to the fuel pump to variety voltage? I jacked the car up and see some wires under the tank I am guessing these go to the fuel pump? Is there anything I need to be aware of when dropping tank that I may overlook from just taking out the bolts and having a floor jack under the tank as it’s half full unfortunately. Any help would be great. Oh and the relay I changed was not the green one like I saw some folks do it was the white one that said circuit relay on it.
  10. So, I'll start this off at Mazda's North American Headquarters: Not a sunny day, but still a happy car. Sitting pretty. Brand-new ties, and also a recent front-end brake job: The most expensive thing done to the car since I've had it is the suspension. Some specialists in SoCal put together shocks and parts that worked to replace the electronic originals: Southern California car its entire life, going by the history: The ALF bumper sticker could use a refresh: Looking good down this side too: Step back into 1983 in here: There's wear in certain areas in the interior, but overall it's in remarkable shape: Original miles - not a surprise, given the condition: The radio works! Some of the speakers only work periodically, though. The oscillating vents work great. And, for an added bonus, the A/C system was recently rebuilt (wasn't cheap): Unmolested and mostly original under here: Some notes: *Car sometimes has a dead spot when trying to start (~1 out of 10 tries). If it doesn't turn over, you shift it into neutral and back to park while twisting the key - then, it starts. (Don't ask; no clue.) *Oil looks good and car doesn't seem to burn it. *Right-side rear window doesn't close tightly, and electric motor isn't working on that side. Works fine on the other, and two front windows work fine. *No warranties expressed or given. It's an old car, but a delight to drive. If I had space, I'd be keeping it. *Any questions welcome. Car is south of Los Angeles in Orange County & you're welcome to come see it; just know that my time is very limited, so be patient with scheduling. Prefer a local buyer, but ask me if you're elsewhere and serious about the car. $3500
  11. The 2002 is a pretty solid car. The 98-02 V6 is a KLG4 and has solid lifters. I think those have to be shimmed in order to be fixed unlike hydraulic lifters which are mostly maintenance free. It is odd because I never had that issue with my 99 for the 100k miles I drove it. I would suggest getting some fresh oil in there with an oil change. The KL oil filters are tiny, but luckily there are other filters with the same threads and diameter which will work. You should be able to find that information on this forum. If you don't have a factory service manual, check out http://www.pmx626.info and get the 2001 service manual (2000-2002 should be the same).
  12. Want to buy a period correct, model specific Front spoiler/air dam for my CB2. Must be in good cond., reasonably priced, and located in US (to keep shipping cost down). Best to contact me directly by email: brcointl at Hotmail.com Thanks
  13. Coupe, located in southern california. Can supply pictures on request. New brakes & tires, rebuilt a/c. Cosmetic wear, but a pretty good looker for her age. Message me if interested and make an offer - thanks!
  14. Hello fellow two-fivers. Just purchased a 2002 ES with 94,000 miles. Never owned a Mazda before so I figured I'd join the club. Anything I should inspect/look out for/replace out of the gate? It seems to run good but I have no reference. Seems like a louder than normal ticking from the top of the engine. It sat for a period of time in an old man's garage, not sure for how long. I've heard that can create the ticking noise from lack of oil but idk. Please link me to previous threads that cover what I need to know or help me out here. Thank you!
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  16. Have a '94 626 I need gone out of my garage. Bought it off a kid who said he was half way through a timing belt change but he was relocating to a different city and didn't have room at his new place for the car. He seemed trustworthy so I took him at his word that the car's only problem was the timing belt. It already had the new belt installed but I brought it home w/ several parts in the trunk. This car was going to be wife's car so she wouldn't have to ride the bus to work. I also bought a '93 MX6 that the owner claimed had a blown head gasket. It was still wet with antifreeze when I brought it home. Looking back, it could've just been the waterpump but i had no desire to fix this one.This was used as my "reference" car in case I got stumped putting the 626 back together. Well, I got the 626 put back together and it wouldn't run. Momma quit her job. Lost the motivation to take the 626 apart again. The 626 has had the IM professionally cleaned, the throttle body is clean as a new one. Injectors have been bench tested. New plugs & wires. Several other new parts. Both going to the junk man. Wanted to offer here first since you all were so helpfull. If you're close enough to Lafayette, IN to come get either or all or parts let me know. Going for junk man prices. Thanks, Tag
  17. Earlier
  18. It has been a long time since I have updated this. I had not touched the car in a long while until last month. I started troubleshooting by checking for vacuum leaks (none found), fuel pressure (all checked out), testing the VAF (within specs), etc. I narrowed it back down to ignition and was looking at how I wired up my external coil because I definitely did not remember what I did. I have a Pertronix Flamethrower HV which seems fine. I pressed the ignition cables on the distributor and one clicked. So yeah, that was it. A loose ignition wire on the distributor cap. I'm happy it is mostly normal again. After that, it blew out the exhaust flange gasket after the car. I fixed that and then the muffler had all these holes in it. I didn't want that Walker crap anymore, so I got a Magnaflow bullet style straight through muffler. That is almost done except I need an exhaust tip. It is still breaking up a bit when I get on it hard in 2nd and 3rd. I'll have to play with it more, but overall I am happy that it mostly works.
  19. 2000 626 v6. Will not go into reverse goes Into all other gears but not reverse. Any ideas?
  20. Hi, I have the exact same problem with right front brake sticking on and being unable to push back the piston unless the bleed valve is loosened. Replaced seals in caliper first as thinking piston was jamming. I did suspecr the ABS unit as my issue occurred after doing an emergency stop where brakes seemed to have remained locked on. I turned the ignition off and car became mobile again except for issues with right front brake was overheating. This indicates that the ABS unit is the culprit so will get a replacement from the local wreckers. Thanks for the posts as it was very helpful.
  21. My 1992, 626 model DX 2.2 L is leaking oil through the side apparently between the head and the block. This motor was repaired 3 yrs ago, would not expect to have any leaks in that area so soon. But is consuming like one quart every 3 to 4 weeks depending on the routine, if i go on long trips is more like two or three days. I suspect that the head bolt have lost clamping pressure, is that possible? would re torquing the head do? Would gladly appreciate some light on this. Thanks PS: Recently replaced oil pressure sender the crankshaft and camshaft seals.
  22. I recently got a 1996 Mazda 626 on the cheap, and it's got some quirks I'm trying to track down. When you first start it in the morning, the car idles at 2k until it gets to temperature, where it settles down at 800 RPM. It also shifts a bit hard when cold, and the first time it hits 25 mph after a cold start, the revs jump up to 5k before the car shifts and continues forward (the car has to sit for 5 hours or so before it's reproducible) I haven't checked much other than fluid levels so far, to make sure the transmission wasn't running dry or something. I've repaired all my vehicles in the past, but as they've been all motorcycles, I'm not entirely sure where I should start. I'm hoping the high idle is just a vacuum leak somewhere, but I've heard some cars idle high when cold by design, which sounds really odd.
  23. I can only suggest check over every fuse. Edit: I would try and narrow down whether it's spark or fuel. Plug removed and place near the engine and look for spark. Or starting fluid. So you can decide the course of action determining why one of those is missing.
  24. Hi Guys, Sorry for this being a Ford Probe and not a mazda - But I think there pretty much the same? Feel free to delete if I'm wrong. Im going bonkers and any help is greatly appreciated: Hey guys,pulling my hair out. Everything was running fine apart from the ABS light was on. Followed the advice for getting the ABS error codes and now the car wont start. The engine turns over but nothing electronic seems to happen. Checked the battery - thats fine. A few other points:- We reset the ECU whilst getting the codes (Disconnected the negative terminal of the battery and held down the brake pedal for 5 minutes.) - We've checked all the fuses and they are all fine.- I'm pretty sure we shorted the right boxes - TBS and GND - but is it possible we bridged the wrong ones. Would this cause serious damage, and how could we find out if this is what we've done?Any ideas are greatly appreciated as I'm not even sure where to start here. The immobiliser acts normal - Slow blinking until the key fob is pressed, then a solid blink and then its out. Thanks.
  25. I was able to check one out. Completely different MAF sensor. So I was able to get mine to seal by screwing the two halves together with wood screws, which work better in plastic than sheetmetal screws. Only problem is that the entire assembly needs to come out in order to get to the filter. Oh well.
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