I change the water pump and no more leaking. I still have bubbles in the radiator. I have checked to oil and no radiator fluid is in the oil and there is no oil in the radiator fluid. I have check each cylinder and there is not radiator fluid in cylinders. People have told me its a head gasket but it has plenty of power. Once its warmed up i have a lot of steam and fluid coming out of the overflow tank. I am not 100% sure its a head gasket. Any thoughts before i tear in to this engine?
Thanks in advance for any and all ideas!
I have a 1999 626 I4 2.0L manual transmission with about 135000 miles.
Recently, it was having a tough time starting, and could only start with the accelerator pedal pressed somewhat. I took it into the shop, and the mechanic found a vacuum leak, and replaced the intake manifold gasket. He mentioned that the IAC may need to be replaced too, and said it would idle a bit low until the computer readjusted. Over the next couple weeks, it drove somewhat okay but with low idle, and the engine would sometimes stall at a stop with the AC turned on.
Suspecting the IAC, I bought a new cheapo replacement off of Amazon. The IAC has a metal manifold side, and a solenoid side. The manifold side is difficult to remove from the throttle housing body, so I just removed the torx screws holding the two parts together, and put the new solenoid + plunger on the old manifold. With the new solenoid on, I started the car. The engine surges to 4000 rpm for about 10 seconds and then hunts between 1200 and 1500 back and forth every couple seconds or so. I let the car run like this stationary for about 15 minutes hoping the computer would relearn the new IAC, but no luck.
Here's the weird part. I put the old IAC solenoid back on, and got the same engine surge followed by idle hunting. If I unplug the IAC, the car drives mostly fine after I warm it up with some foot on the gas; otherwise it would idle around 500.
I took the car back to the mechanic and he checked that there is no other vacuum leak, and reset the ECU several times, but it makes no difference. The mechanic suggested replacing the entire throttle body, but that seems like a lot of work just based on a hunch.
I read that I may need to reset the ECU's IAC settings by removing the IAC connector and TPS connector, turning the car to ON for 30 seconds then OFF, then plugging the connectors back in. I tried this with no effect.
Anyone have any ideas on what to try next? Thanks!
I have seen this posted here in a search but with no replies, I have dug as much as I can and have found little info about this issue. Basically this car is a customer, they simply bought it and wanted to get the a/c working, I diagnosed it as a blocked up accumulator so I got a four seasons kit from RockAuto, replaced the compressor and orifice tube, however the accumulator connection going to the evaporator was too small, sent it back and ordered and different brand (GPD) and it was the same way, O'Reilly was able to get their hands on a four seasons, and of course it's also too small. The local Mazda dealer says they can't even get their hands on one. So I did more digging and discovered that the accumulators are different after 4/22/02 build date, however I cannot figure out how to search for one. I fear my only option is to talk this guy into now buying an evaporator and paying me to pull the dash and replace assuming the one I order will match up to the accumulator I now have on hand. I'm hoping someone has ran into this issue and may know a solution better than pulling the dash, the guy got the car at a good price, but he's paying me to do the a/c system, plus I rebuilt the struts and replaced rear sway bar bushings and got it lined up, so he's not gonna want to spend any more but the car is in great shape. Any help or info would be well received thanx for reading.
I am in the process of replacing the metal flared line that goes into the slave cylinder. Mine had a small hairline split in it that could only be seen while hand pumping the clutch petal. I would try bleeding the slave cylinder again to release any air and then have someone pump the clutch until you find the leak between the slave cylinder and the master cylinder. Most likely you will have a leak somewhere on one of those lines