All Activity

This stream auto-updates   

  1. Today
  2. 626 16v. Full throttle slower than 3/4

    Okay so I tried without catalytic converter and did not help. I think it might be throttle problem or some sensor .
  3. JDM 1982 Mazda Capella video

    Where can I get those chrome rain strips
  4. Yesterday
  5. Spun Rod Bearing

    You got a h-trans just laying around? I converted my gt to manual transmission already but have suspicion the input shaft bearing is on its way out.
  6. Rust Repair Advice

    Yes that is correct panel for your S1 and panel is same for coupe/hardtop and sedan >>> fast edit >>> save some money
  7. Is the MA reliable

    Is the MA a reliable engine to daily drive
  8. Engine rebuild

    I am looking into rebuilding my turbo motor but was thinking of a 10 over but don't know where to start not built a motor before and would like a list in detail of what all I need to build a motor and turbo for my car. Thank in advance
  9. Last week
  10. Rust Repair Advice

    I think I've struck on some MASSIVE luck: Is this the correct panel for Series 1? ...Don't tell me the coupes have a different back panel from the sedans.
  11. Spun Rod Bearing

    Made an account here just to say this (been on for a while) but I've got a spare H transmission that would fit your 626 if it turns out its toast. They're probably hard to find at this point and I've got no use for it, came from an LX parts car for my two GTs.
  12. First your alternator never stops charging. It should be approx 1.5v above the battery voltage any time it is running. You need to check the small wiring from the alternator. That's the exciter wire and lights the bulb. Since it just didn't come on until a few minutes, suspect the wire.
  13. Hello Mazda friends! I've been fighting this issue for a while. My 91 626 LX charges the battery only when it wants to. I've replaced the alternator and the same symptoms exist. My battery is good. The main cable coming off the alternator going to the battery seems good, and the negative terminal/ground wire and positive terminal are all new. however, most of the time when I start my car, it will not start charging right away. Sometimes it takes only a few minutes, other times it seems like it will never start charging. When it does kick in, it will hang between 13.8 - 14.7 on the gauge I have plugged into my cig lighter. It also won't stop charging once it starts until I shut the car off. The charge light works, as when I turn the key to Run, it will light up. However today I tested this again and it did not light up, and of course wasn't charging when I started it. However it did kick in a few minutes later, right up to 14.7v. One thing I have noticed is that the charge light on the dash is dimmer than the other indicator lights. I've read that the bulb burning out will cause the alt to not charge. Is it possible the bulb is loose in my dash or something? Starting to go crazy. The other plug on the alternator seems to be in decent condition. Any pointers? Thanks in advance.
  14. Alternator not supplying current

    I've read that if that indicator bulb is burned out, the alternator will not charge. Did you ever get this resolved? I'm also having weird charging problems, but going to make a separate post.
  15. Rust Repair Advice

    OE tail lights are no problem to get, except that you will have the proper orange flasher lens as opposed to US spec full red lenses! I really do not like the S2 tail lights - too big and ugly! I will vouch for this company and the boot seals. Not OE but excellent aftermarket product. I have bought numerous parts from them for me and overseas colleagues. 1978-82 626 SEDAN.htm Rear of an S1: Rear of an S2: From the pics: If you change the rear beaver panel to S2, then you will need to modify each corner to fit the lights and find the tail lights - that is all. You do not need the rear boot lid - they fit both cars but you will notice S1 has a small cutout along the lower lip, S2 is dead straight across.
  16. 1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    Capella has a budget of $1500. L3VE will not happen as 3/4 of the budget is the engine alone, cool as it would be to do I don't want to invest $4,000 by the time it is legal for a $2500 car. I will however be swapping in a motor and 5 speed from a Protege MP5 or 323/Familia SP20 depending where in the world you are. FS DE or ZE depending what I can get will bolt straight in, plug and play (mostly) Wiring wise. Mods? Not really. Hi flow air filter that's about it. Hoping to get a front cut or a de-rego/wreck and pillage it. This wagon is a good one and I do like it and once manual and not low on compression/drinking oil it will be a great driver. My wife doesn't like driving it because its a wagon. Me? I like it can carry stuff but for me it really has to be manual.
  17. Shifter Linkage Bushes Are Easy....

    Shall be doing this with my TX5 once I sort the gearbox
  18. Rust Repair Advice

    Yeah, I figured as much. I shall take your sage advice! Yeah, a bit like that only with less rust! I'm just crazy enough to actually spring for that. (Hope it stays on until payday!!) How much trouble would it be to adapt Series 2 taillights to my car, if I get that panel? Would I really have to get new rear fenders for that? Much as I love my taillights, you can't get much more 80's than a taillight that's diced into cubes. How much else is different on a Series 2 rear? I notice the lock's in a different place, would that be difficult to adapt? Any other fittings differences? Additionally, can you point out where I could get a new trunk seal? Old one's tired and has just about had it.
  19. Rust Repair Advice

    Hey DR, avoid fibreglass/bondo like the plague!! That's just these guys way of telling you they are not interested in doing the job! Find a workshop where the guys actually are craftsmen and take pride in their work!!! Otherwise, the only way to learn is to have a go yourself. What something like this? Anyways..........This is NOS for a Series 2 - larger rear tail lights, but I think the section you need can be taken from it.
  20. Rust Repair Advice

    Greetings all! I'm not dead and neither is Tomo-san! I just moved. Had the u-joint replaced recently, which wasn't expensive and VASTLY improved my car's drivablity. Next up on that front would be the shocks, but that's not for a while yet... I moved to the coast, which means any minor rust problems Tomo had are now suddenly major. Biggest on the list is I have a hole in the trunk. Rust is most cancerous around the license plate light and the trunk latch, on the panel that holds the taillights, license plate, and such. Under the weather stripping, I have a hole which is letting rainwater into the trunk like a fountain. My smugness at having a flat tyre and a full-sized spare with a new tyre on it was dashed when I saw the Rust Soup my car was cooking up in the spare tyre well. 0.o The lip that holds the trunk weather-stripping is rusty in about three places, with bubbling and cancer into the panel a bit. So, I've been lassoing two different shops for quotes, one slightly more honest to my intuition than the other: Shop 1: Wants to fabricate a fiberglass/glassfibre replacement for a good hunk of the panel, bonded with Bondo, naturally. Their quote is the cheaper solution (but a good hunk of change nevertheless). Shop 2: Thinks they can **maybe** fabricate repairs in metal, but we're talking about three or four curves in the body panel that'll need redoing, so they aren't sure. Their recommendation is to find a new body panel and put that on. Their first option (if they figure it's actually doable) is more expensive and their second option is EVEN MORE pricy. Naturally, I'm thinking repairing metal with actual metal is a better idea, but price aside, finding a panel for these rare little beasts is going to be a chore because I don't live in Mazda Heaven (that's Australia, evidently). Is using fiberglass, especially on a second gen Capella/CB/First gen 626 even something I should bother with? Furthermore, can anybody (most likely Rotated6_2) tell me where to find a back-wall-of-the-vehicle panel for a 1980 Mazda 626 Capella?
  21. I have a 1996 miata Just ran across this topic and have a question hope you can help I just installed a new PRC When I blow in the top port it comes out the non filtered port When I turn on the key ,I hear the PRC click and air still flows out non filtered port I can drive it for an hour or two kill it and when I go to start right back up Air still flows out the nfp port I took off and tested with a nine volt battery When I blow in the top port with power then it flows out the air filter port So it switches with the nine volt battery Can you tell me where to go from here or is the PRC working correctly What throws me is the click sound when it is hooked to car and not switching Any help appreciated I have three not ready monitors that will not ready no code no cel I had the same problem before and replaced the PRC and they went ready The one on ethere now seemed sluggish so put the new one on
  22. Got Another Truck Load of parts..

    I need everything for a 1990 626 gt 2.2L turbo 5 speed. Interior is blue and beige and exterior is blue. I am rebuilding the entire car.
  23. i have a Turbosmart electronic boost controller and am looking for some visual help and steps for install , i searched the forums here and all the post's with pictures, the pictures have expired, seems like this is a old topic * le sigh* some steps and pictures or a vid would be appreciated , thanks
  24. Earlier
  25. Do you have a scratch or ding that you need to fill in? Or have you always dreamed of painting your car Chrome Yellow? RockAuto now carries paint products in a variety of OE and custom colors and finishes! From Touch-Up Paint pens and sprays by ACDelco and Dupli-Color to custom paint colors, primers and clear coats, RockAuto has what you need to restore or personalize your vehicle at our reliably low prices. Find Touch-Up Paint for your specific car or truck in the “Body" category of the RockAuto catalog. Custom colors and other paint products can be found under Paint in the "Body" category of the "Tools & Universal Parts" tab.
  26. 1988 626 pulls to left under torque

    Tbm3fan - I got to ask. As an old mopar admirer , is it a Cuda or a Challenger ? That was my era growing up.
  27. 1988 626 pulls to left under torque

    Thanks for your excellent reply tbm3fan , I had serious lung surgery in December that I am still recovering from. That said I stopped at a tire shop on the way back from the doc. And they put it on a lift that only lifts a few feet. They let me stand beside them despite all the signs saying customers couldn't do that. Great people ! They turned the steering wheel back and forth and did the 3-9 o' clock wheel shake on the pass. Side and it was pretty loose . 6-12 o'clock was firm.I thought the the tie rods but he crawled under and shook them and they were firm. They believe ball joint or control arm loose or wore out . I wish it was up higher where I could go under it but that didn't happen . They did this for free. I will definitely give them my business soon on tires for my old truck. I need to find out more about the parts at this point . I have a willing friend to help out. I will have to get a better look at them but I was wanting to know how hard they are to replace should I need to. Any special tools etc. Needed ??? Thanks
  28. Turbo help

    Am wondering where I can get a new turbo do our cars 90 626 2.2 turbo
  29. Gi; Light Weight Crank Pulley

    Any word on this yet I would like one
  1. Load more activity