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  1. Today
  2. GT_FE3

    my car's not working

    Possible it could be a few things. Did it overheat? Was the engine at high RPMS? Worst case - It could be mechanical damage from within. Maybe a broken piston ring. Could be valve damage. Could be the bottom end bearings. Compression test is your best bet. A low reading will tell you which cylinder has the damage.
  3. Hi Everyone, As of today I have just noticed the cooling fan suddenly isn't coming on when the car is sitting stationary, it didn't overheat but once I got moving the temperature settled back down to normal operating temp and only started rising back up if I was held stationary for longer than a minute or so. Here's what I have done: Our workshop manual says to test the circuit disconnect the thermoswitch and see if the fan comes on, it DOESN'T. The manual says to check the cooling fan itself, the relay and any associated wiring with that circuit. I haven't pulled the fan out and physically tested it with an amp meter as it says to do, but it turns on when you turn the Air Conditioning on so I'm assuming the fan is good? I Have swapped the horn relay for the cooling fan relay at the back of the engine bay (relay set attached to firewall) and the horn still works with the cooling fan relay. Reading the wiring manual it says there is a second relay that's located at the front of the vehicle on the passenger side between the battery and the cooling fan, there's 2 relays there but matching the wiring up I found the second relay and swapped the 2 relays at the front around and then disconnected the thermoswitch with the ignition on. Still nothing. The car has cooled down a little bit but the thermoswitch still doesn't have any continuity, the manual states that there should be continuity inside the switch up to 91 degrees celsius and then after that the circuit is broken activating the fan, so at this stage the thermoswitch does appear to be renewed (I'm waiting for the car to cool down further to double check this) but even if the switch needs renewing it doesn't seem to be causing the issue? Someone with better knowledge is more than welcome to correct me on any of this. Cheer's guys! Speedy
  4. Yesterday
  5. Last week
  6. Hi. My Mazda 626 has an original stereo with cassette player. It has an amp with it too. But whenever I play music the back speaker makes a buzzing sound continuous and it doesnt stop. What to do with ug
  7. What other parts will I need? The parts dealer I spoke with said I'll need trans support bearings and/or bushings. He wasn't sure about it and didn't know if he could even get those parts for me. Thanks.
  8. Rotated6_2

    Shocks & Struts

    Here you go, young fella! https://www.monroe.com.au/trade-corner/catalogue-search.html?cat_make=MAZDA&cat_model=626+REAR+WHEEL+DRIVE&cat_year=1980&search_type=make_model_year&form_used=sidebar
  9. flenser

    Overheating 98 V6 ES

    Thanks for reply. My mechanic is going to replace the thermostat next week, and we'll see if that does the trick. I'll also get one valve cover and oil pan gaskets replaced. The checkbook needs a workout, it seems. What I may also do, once these jobs are done, is do a radiator flush with a chemical treatment and see what, if anything, is loosened up / shaken out. I don't know if I want to go this far, but we'll see. Will update next week.
  10. NickR

    Overheating 98 V6 ES

    I think it's unlikely to be the heater core, since this is not intended to be used to keep the engine cool. Thermostat is a cheap and easy thing to replace. The other two suspects are: blocked radiator (I mean internally blocked, though you could easily check whether it's externally blocked with bugs etc); corroded water pump fins (so it isn't pumping coolant). But those are more costly to replace. I have forgotten the name of those infra red thermometer gun things that you can point at parts of the cooling system to read the temperature. But it might be worthwhile buying/renting/borrowing one to try to help diagnose the problem. If it shows cooler spots in part of the radiator, for example, that helps diagnose a blocked radiator.
  11. Doctor Robert

    Shocks & Struts

    Next on my vast things-that-need-to-be-fixed list (it never ends! ) : Shocks & Struts What can I say? I'm tired of the suspension going cartoony every time I run over an amoeba. This'll have to take priority over replacing the back panel (I must say I'm glad the rain's stopped for now. ). I recall Rotated saying the following a while back: So according to my car's VIN, my car's of the after 543XXX variety. Could somebody tell me the part # for these items? Did any other car come with these parts or were these exclusive to 626's? Were all 1980 models after 543XXX? Thanks!
  12. flenser

    Overheating 98 V6 ES

    Greetings — last time I had a question about this car overheating, it turned out that it was the reservoir tank — thanks for the help! This time, however, it looks like it's something else. Here's the problem: driving around town, the car does fine. The temperature stays steady, unless and only unless I'm doing lots of stop/start driving due to traffic lights, which usually isn't a problem in the areas I drive city. It's when I'm out on the highway that things get wonky. Things move faster toward overheating when the AC is used, but I've seen this even when the AC isn't on. I can drive for 20 miles at 60-70, and everything stays solid. It's then that the temperature begins to creep up. It will sometimes stay in the Safe Zone, but more often than not, I find that I have to turn the heat on full-bore and dump heat so that it will stay within acceptable limits. Once I get the temp down, I end up being able to drive a few miles without the AC on before it starts creeping up again. So far I've had the temperature sensors replaced, coolant replaced, radiator fans replaced (and they run, so it isn't the relay), and another few odd jobs done. Coolant levels stay good, and I check oil regularly because I've got an oil pan seal to replace soon. My guess is that it's one of two things: the thermostat needs to be replaced (I don't think I've had that done lately), or the heating core / heating core line is clogged. Either way, I'm wondering if the coolant has nowhere to flow which means that the heat has nowhere to go. But I very well could be wrong. I'd love to hear some serious (and perhaps experienced) suggestions as to where to go with this. Thanks!
  13. Earlier
  14. I was slack last week. Thursday, this gearbox will be taken apart. I want to see if it is good inside. Will have pics! Got a H9R Eken action camera - compares to a go pro hero 4. I've got some mounts coming for it. I'll use the other camera as well.
  15. bluegrandbetsy


    Anyone from Colorado?
  16. site updated, themes updated (new dark theme). CDN still active and back online (was down since 5/9) due to configuration issue.
  17. Hello! Something happened with my Mazda. The engine began to run unevenly, appeared to vibrate, and the oil consumption increased. Has anyone encountered this problem? What is the reason?
  18. tristan

    Clutch sticking to the ground

    I had similar issue few years ago in my 626. Replacing the clutch master cylinder fixed the problem. Hope this helps.
  19. I was wondering if someone could give me some direction. My 97 626 has begun heating up when it iddles. I have checked the coolant and it is full. The temperature drops back down once I am driving again. Any ideas on what to test or what could be the issue?
  20. 5% Discount Code: F2DD61DE88455B Expires: August 12, 2018 Please enter this code in the ‘How Did You Hear about Us’ box to receive the discount. Please enter ONLY the discount code, no other words or numbers. Please note that orders using discount codes must be placed online and the discount code must be entered before an order is submitted to receive the discount. RockAuto.com is an online auto parts store founded in Madison, Wisconsin in 1999 by the Taylor family. RockAuto.com ships thousands of auto parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers worldwide. The RockAuto Catalog includes a full line of mechanical parts, from small items like filters and wiper blades to complete remanufactured transmissions and engine long blocks. The RockAuto catalog also contains a growing number of body parts: door handles, mirrors, sheet metal, bumper covers, even carpets! The RockAuto Catalog includes vehicles from the early 1900s to today, making it easy to find parts no matter what you drive. Prices on RockAuto.com are reliably low every day! Order online at www.RockAuto.com 24 hours a day. Parts are conveniently delivered to your door. Need help finding parts or placing an order? Visit our Help pages for further assistance!
  21. Rotated6_2

    Jets for a MA

    I seriously recommend taking it in and getting it tuned on a dyno, but before you go, you want to track down more jets or make sure the shop has parts and knows how to tune old school. Sadly, most shops hate dyno tuning carbies because it is so labour intensive. I can tell you that on my Edelbrock 650cfm carby fed 13B bridgeport, I have spent a grand on dyno tuning because there is no data for the conversion, and I can still get more power with more development and dyno time.
  22. poptaclutch

    Jets for a MA

    i have a MA motor with a 32/36 weber conversion. I am currently running the following jetting does this sound ball park. primary idle jet is 55. secondary idle jet 55. primary main jet 145. secondary main jet 135. The motor is a total rebuild all stock ,and I have the AFR at 2 turns out. does this sound like ball park any advice is great to hear.
  23. megapark

    I don't own a Mazda...

    But my girlfriend has a 626 LX V6 with a manual transmission. We just changed out the fuel pump, spark plugs, wires and coil pack. I didn't believe her when she told me the car had some decent power as it always had a bad misfire. After the repairs, the same misfire is gone, and the car has surprised me. So far. Mostly just looking to see what extra I can learn about the car, and eventually look into getting a short throw shifter for it, and put my old 18" wheels from my former Elantra on. Previous experience for building cars includes a 1997 Pontiac Sunfire that I build for auto cross, and before that, a 1989 Pontiac Sunbird that I built for 1/4 mile drag racing. Sunfire got stolen, while the Sunbird had the driver seat ripped out when shifting from first to second coming out of my old work. Both were salt encrusted Ontario cars. I'm used to not being able to find stuff, so building this car for comfort should be extremely easy, but there is always areas to learn things.
  24. graybeard

    1988 626 pulls to left under torque

    Hello all , and to you Tbm3fan thanks ! You set me on the right path and after jacking it up I found that the ball joint was very worn out . After looking it over I decided that with my condition that I shouldn't take this job on . I took it to a garage where they wanted to replace the ball joint . I decided to change the control arm with a ball joint all ready attached and two new sway bar links .Ordered moog parts online and saved quite a bit of money . They replaced the parts for a reasonable price and did a four wheel alignment . All is well and I am thankful that the ball joint didn't cause a wreck ! My previous post I forgot that the baracudas were Plymouth , not dodge .
  25. mazdafin99

    626 16v. Full throttle slower than 3/4

    Okay updating again. Tested without gasoline filter and no change . Going to check all of the Fuel pipes.
  26. aleekat


    If you didn't run it it's either on the ground or you didn't fill it full. It takes alot to burp the air out after pulling radiator. It does take a couple of hours to settle. Get a pressure tester if you have a leak.
  27. Latingtr


    I second this issue. Check your vacuum hoses.
  28. In 2 weeks time this gearbox will be going into my car on a Friday.
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