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  1. Yesterday
  2. Been having trouble with accelerating under 1500rpm it drives ok bit at 1500rpm it shakes sputters..replaced dis cap n rotor wires plugs even ecu...thinking maybe inyake gaskets???
  3. Hey guys, does anyone know where the ground point are for the Alternator? I've just replaced it due to bearing noise and no charge, but it's still not charging. It's outputting 12.1V at the Alternator terminal. I've cleaned up battery posts, ground points to the battery, engine ground point (engine mount) and also any random ground points I could see. I don't have access to a wiring diagram unfortunately. Any help is appreciated.
  4. Last week
  5. Just not the way I thought it would. I layed her to rest at 8:20am EST this morning. I will miss this car.
  6. Hi there, I have a 1998 626 2L Mazda Station Wagon. In the last year the locks have been playing up, so that only the driver's lock will automatically unlock the rest of the car. Yesterday, when trying to turn the key to lock the door, it would turn but not lock the door. Does anyone know a good solution? Is it simply buying a new key (with chip) or replacing the cylinder door lock? Thanks, Rose
  7. Earlier
  8. my ports are clogged with some sort of plastic or rubber
  9. Anyone know how to turn up the mechanical fuel pump on a diesel 2.0 RF N/A in a 84 626
  10. Do you Know how to turn up the injection pump on one of these 2.0s?
  11. Hi, There seem to be a few issues like this posted previously but they don't match my issue exactly so I thought I'd ask: My turn signals/Hazard lights in my '98 626 seem to work intermittently. The problem has gotten worse over the past 2-3 weeks to the point where I'd say they only work about 25% of the time. I'm not sure if it's just co-incidence, but turning the wheel seems to help me turn them on (but not always, and less and less each day). For example, if I pull up at an intersection and try to signal and it doesn't work, turning the wheel over will often allow me to turn them on. When it does work they will flash maybe 5 or 6 times and then stop. The issue happens turning both left and right. All the bulbs work when the signals actually work. I've checked the fuses and they seem fine and my next stop was to get a new flasher relay. However, I just wanted to see if anyone could tell what the issue was with the above before doing so. My research seems to have me split between Flasher relay, hazard light switch, combo switch in the column, with an outside chance that it's the ignition switch (although perhaps not applicable to this particular vehicle).
  12. If anyone knows which or where I can find one I would greatly appreciate that. I can’t seems to locate one anywhere. No 4 groove. Hope someone see this post thanks
  13. Does anyone know where I can find first for my 1984 Mazda 626 coupe Automatic? It would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  14. Does anyone know where I can find first for my 1984 Mazda 626 coupe Automatic? It would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  15. How can i make my v6 faster? I've heard one guy saying i should install a racing chip. Does it exit? Does it increase HP? Who sells them?
  16. 6 March 2019. There I was, just minding my own business. Sitting on the road, indicators and brake on, just waiting for traffic to clear so I could turn Right. Bang! Crunch! Screech! She was "Distracted". Yeah, right. On her damn phone we suspect. Although it is just a suburban street rated at 50 km/h she was doing well over that when she hit. Look at the damage she caused. So Insurance paid it out, couldn't possibly fix it. By now it is at UPullit or another yard. Today we bought another 1992 626, sedan this time. Feels so good to be back in a nice car though we have work to do, radio, clean seats, roof lining etc. 2 things I want to do this time and fairly soon. A Double DIN GPS mapping radio and a dual view Camera. Suggestions and Recommendations welcomed.
  17. greeting fellow 626-ers. Proud 626 owner from pakistan. its a 626 gd 1991, 1.6 (f6 carb). i did a rear disc conversion on mine few months ago, using sp20 parts. the rear drum (left side) cracked because of its age and overly used. all four shocks were leaking and had springs from different cars. as the condition i bought it. parts arent readily available in my region. so either modification of parts or custom is done. no importing isnt a easy win, i was about to get new drums for 100$ on ebay. but shipping was 380$ and custom duty around 200$. 680$ for 2 drums, after a brief lookout in the scrape yard i found i found 4 complete struts from a BJ, thats the closest i can get to gd shocks lol. so i installed the front ones simple to no mods. rear shocks of my gd were shot, so i moded the BJ ones by adding some thick gauge plate and welding studs. AC ARC welding worked fine. shocks went in nice and firm. for the disc brake conversion i used the sp20 rear hubs. they fit nice. i had to use the BJ lower control arm bolt (long 17mm one on the hub side) and had to put a spacer in between the hub was kinda smaller then the GD. some steel pipe bush taken out from old bushings went cut and in. hubs mounted nice and easy. have to make a custom handbrake cable. the problem with these hubs the wheel pops out a bit and goes into too much camber. the bj is lighter so the springs needs to be replaced, will do. but for now i have to rectify the wheel pop out. HAs anyone used sp20 hubs in gd here ? if i cut the lower control arms shorter will it help ?
  18. Heyy people. I have a 85 b2000 with a 2lt fe motor 5sp , I'm wanting to know if I can fit a gd 2.2 turbo head to my 2lt fe block. Any help would be much appreciated.
  19. aleekat

    Hey Admin

    Can't view any posts when I am logged in. But log out and I can see them. https://mazda626.net/topic/47705-cooling-fans/?tab=comments#comment-400506
  20. My ‘97 626, manual, 2.0 is the first FWD car I’ve ever had, and the first car I’ve had with electric fans. I’ve only had it running for a short time, and I noticed that only the driver side fan is running. Is the other fan supposed to be running at all times, or only when the AC is running or something?
  21. I am trying to replace my oil pan gasket. While researching the process, I noticed that the 2.0L has a nut attached for removing it without prying on the pan. I could not find a similar setup on my 2.6L V6. I don't want to trash the pan and have no way to go get another. Any and all help Greatly Appreciated.
  22. it once signed in. I can only read posts when signed out for some reason. So hear are the pics.
  23. Just got a 89 mx-6. Only 80,000 miles. Will have to buy tires soon. The tires on there were purchase 20 years ago at 65,000 miles.
  24. My 1992, 626 model DX 2.2 L is leaking oil through the side apparently between the head and the block. This motor was repaired 3 yrs ago, would not expect to have any leaks in that area so soon. But is consuming like one quart every 3 to 4 weeks depending on the routine, if i go on long trips is more like two or three days. I suspect that the head bolt have lost clamping pressure, is that possible? would re torquing the head do? Would gladly appreciate some light on this. Thanks PS: Recently replaced oil pressure sender the crankshaft and camshaft seals.
  25. I recently got a 1996 Mazda 626 on the cheap, and it's got some quirks I'm trying to track down. When you first start it in the morning, the car idles at 2k until it gets to temperature, where it settles down at 800 RPM. It also shifts a bit hard when cold, and the first time it hits 25 mph after a cold start, the revs jump up to 5k before the car shifts and continues forward (the car has to sit for 5 hours or so before it's reproducible) I haven't checked much other than fluid levels so far, to make sure the transmission wasn't running dry or something. I've repaired all my vehicles in the past, but as they've been all motorcycles, I'm not entirely sure where I should start. I'm hoping the high idle is just a vacuum leak somewhere, but I've heard some cars idle high when cold by design, which sounds really odd.
  26. I can only suggest check over every fuse. Edit: I would try and narrow down whether it's spark or fuel. Plug removed and place near the engine and look for spark. Or starting fluid. So you can decide the course of action determining why one of those is missing.
  27. Hi Guys, Sorry for this being a Ford Probe and not a mazda - But I think there pretty much the same? Feel free to delete if I'm wrong. Im going bonkers and any help is greatly appreciated: Hey guys,pulling my hair out. Everything was running fine apart from the ABS light was on. Followed the advice for getting the ABS error codes and now the car wont start. The engine turns over but nothing electronic seems to happen. Checked the battery - thats fine. A few other points:- We reset the ECU whilst getting the codes (Disconnected the negative terminal of the battery and held down the brake pedal for 5 minutes.) - We've checked all the fuses and they are all fine.- I'm pretty sure we shorted the right boxes - TBS and GND - but is it possible we bridged the wrong ones. Would this cause serious damage, and how could we find out if this is what we've done?Any ideas are greatly appreciated as I'm not even sure where to start here. The immobiliser acts normal - Slow blinking until the key fob is pressed, then a solid blink and then its out. Thanks.
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