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  3. CUB075

    2nd Coupe

    G'day all, Picked up this 2nd 86 626 Turbo Coupe yesterday after a fluke find on Gumtree for $250 ! . Bought it from the original owner and was going to use it for spares for my other identical coupe but this one has all original history with it etc so will use my other car for restoration parts instead. The car has been maintained mechanically up until 2016 and is totally original except for the wheels on it as he swapped them from a wreck he had as the tires were good on these rims. It ran fine without any problems on the 800km journey home, the a/c wasn't working so was a hot trip back... It has high Km's but still runs fine. A tribute to Mazda quality
  4. Last week
  5. Guys this topic was spot on this helped me determine all the selonoids are the same as mine is stating low voltage..everything else works diaphragm when vacuum is applied pulls in butterfly flaps open & close
  6. 5% Discount Code: 3C367780850C36 Expires: May 12, 2019 Please enter this code in the ‘How Did You Hear about Us’ box to receive the discount. Please enter ONLY the discount code, no other words or numbers. All orders are placed online and the discount code must be entered before an order is marked as shipped to receive the discount. RockAuto.com is an online auto parts store founded in Madison, Wisconsin in 1999 by the Taylor family. RockAuto.com ships thousands of auto parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers worldwide. The RockAuto Catalog includes a full line of mechanical parts, from small items like filters and wiper blades to complete remanufactured transmissions and engine long blocks. The RockAuto catalog also contains a growing number of body parts: door handles, mirrors, sheet metal, bumper covers, even carpets! The RockAuto Catalog includes vehicles from the early 1900s to today, making it easy to find parts no matter what you drive. Prices on RockAuto.com are reliably low every day! Order online at www.RockAuto.com 24 hours a day. Parts are conveniently delivered to your door. Need help finding parts or placing an order? Visit our Help pages for further assistance!
  7. GT_FE3

    1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    I rang in the morning gave them the money and in the afternoon this arrived for my car! In a Mazda E2000 van. While was repairing a silver GW - cooling system failure - leaking radiator stuck thermostat and leaking coolant pipes, those pain in the bum ones under the exhaust manifold. I got a replacement pipe today from the junkyard and also picked up the mounts for the strut brace from the blue MS SP20. They wanted $40 - the cost of the brace, so I didn't bother with that, rip off for just 2 mounts and no brace! Going to get it from the Mazda wrecker instead.
  8. Earlier
  9. GT_FE3

    1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    By chance I happened to go to the Mazda wrecker today for a customer's car (Starter motor). Asked about the SP20 tiptronic - none in stock and they weren't sure when any would arrive. $495, so my guess of $450 wasn't far off. Extra $240 to swap it to tiptronic, I'd rather pay that to go manual. They did have a dual sump GW box, the same year with 128,000 km tested with 3 months warranty at $300. Not bad and it's plug and play. New fluid and filter for sure once its in. I said I'd get it once I confirmed how many sumps my current box has. Looked under the car - 2 sumps. Think I found my gearbox! FN4A-EL is in a variety of different flavors. Single sump and double sump, regular auto and tiptronic and all seem to be labeled on the tag as "4EC-AT". Which can be traced back to the GD. I love GD's. I have love for this too. I took the (junk) Spark plugs off the $50 engine. It is surprisingly clean - no sludge in the head or pistons, just some minor carbon as expected with use which I'll clean. Phone flat so no pics of the fun engine stuff. There's average ones of the gearbox though. I dropped some oil down the plug holes to turn the engine. Turns nicely with good compression kick! I'm still going to go over it all I'm not just chucking it in and hoping it works. Half the battle won. I need to save up for the seal kit. And I realized I forgot to ask about a torque converter since this one is junk.
  10. GT_FE3

    1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    Ford 4F27E/Mazda FN4A-EL is the tiptronic gearbox the Sport20 uses. Tag inside the driver door on my car says "4EC-AT" for the transmission, single sump in the front, there's a sticker but its faded and can't read whats printed. I've checked tags on a few Sport 20 Familia's in the junkyard they say the same thing inside the door - 4EC-AT. So essentially the same gearbox. Only if I want the tiptronic stuff I'll need the ECU, gearbox loom and cluster. Research shows the body/interior loom is the same between 5 speed and auto cars, which I read as close to plug and play. A few minor things I'll need to iron out generally though I'm thinking of going with it. I won't be getting a pick a part transmission as likely the car is there for that reason. I'll spend a bit more for a working one with warranty. ECU clutser and loom I'll likely get. $350 trade price for a full engine gasket kit. I'll need front and rear main seals too ($60-80 there). $45 for bearings. Waiting on figures for rings. Next up is cost up a trans. $45 for a cluster $30 for the loom. Gearbox $350 for the exact one I have. Or $450 for the tiptronic. $175 more approx..... it's tempting.
  11. My clutch pedal suddenly stops much higher than it used to and I got a bunch of broken plastic in my footwell. My mechanic tells me I need at least two bushings to replace, the problem is he can not source them anywhere. Please, anybody who has done clutch pedal maintenance let me know where you sourced parts or what did you modify to make it work. Have you used bushings from other Mazda or any other make or model and they worked?? I would hate to have to buy a new car just because I could not find 7 $ worth of plastic parts..... Thank you for all the ideas!
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  13. OldSix_95

    Rough Idle Issue

    At least you found the issue... mine ended up blowing a head, and she is no more.
  14. BIGgame

    Rough Idle Issue

    Providing an update... I took the car to a different mechanic today and after doing a bit of tinkering with the idle, checking the plugs, listening and such he drove the car with me in it. What he noticed was that the car is missing really bad. He thinks the timing is off which is causing the missing issue. He floored the gas while entering the interstate and the car put out little power. It gradually built up speed, but not straight away. I have scheduled an appointment to take the car back to his shop next week due to him being busy this week. Hopefully he will be able to resolve the issue and get my 626 back to proper running condition. I'll let you guys know the results once I get the car back.
  15. ColdWarVet607

    Rough Idle Issue

    You can test the ignition module by using a test light, an old fashioned one with a real bulb, not the LEDs they have on many today. Remove the cable from spark plug, Gnd the test light ground clip and BEFORE you start car put the test light probe tip on the cable spark plug terminal to give the spark a place to go. (see warning below). Start Engine and your test light now acts s the spark plug. Move the tip away slowly to see how far the spark jumps, until you reach a position where its barely able to jump.Put the probe back to tip then turn engine off. Do that on another module/wire combination and see if theres a big difference. That difference points to a bad or semi bad cable or bad/weak ignition module output. No fancy tools needed. I did this and found a bad output on my ignition module and closer inspection I saw a crack on it, where energy probably jumped from it to GND at the module. The Mode 6 data said I had misfires on that cylinder, after I changed the module it ran great. Make sure your hand is not close than the test light probe or you will get bit big time by the spark. You will also develop an "ear" and "eye" for the quality of spark by the sound of the snap and brightness of the spark. Also if you find a bad/weak module/cable combo, then change the cable with another and retest the same output of ignition module to eliminate the cable or module output. Do not allow the cable to sit disconnect from spark plug when engine is started, that energy needs to go somewhere and will eventually punch itself thru the insulation in the module to another coil if you dont give it a path. You'll want to disable the injector for that cylinder so you dont hydro lock it.
  16. aleekat

    2000 Mazda 626 LX Alternator Removal Issue

    I just remove the 3 nuts up front. Pulled the exhaust down and was able to maneuver the alternator out.
  17. smuryof

    2000 Mazda 626 LX Alternator Removal Issue

    If that's the same sort of flex pipe as found on the '96, I can tell you from experience, don't put too much strain on the flex portion. If it's somewhat old and rusty, you can cause leaks pretty easy that way. Besides, there's just three bolts on front and two in back, it actually isn't so bad with a decent 1/2" impact. Of course if this happened to me on the freeway in somewhere like the middle of Nebraska, you know, the typical places alternators like to die, then I would probably just loosen the sucker :)
  18. Resetting the ECU did not help; Finally, I decided to fiddle with the FORBIDDEN IDLE SCREW. Now, I have something very clear to say about this; I agree completely, 100%, wholeheartedly, this should NOT be adjusted to solve idle issues if the physics of the engine haven't changed. By that, really, in my case I am talking about displacement. When I rebuilt the engine, at the advice of the machine shop, I had the cylinders bored 0.020" over to take care of some light scarring that had appeared from 240,000 miles of use. That essentially changed the displacement of the engine by a marginal amount, but my theory here is that it was just enough to cause it to idle roughly and stall like this. I have no guidance from any of my research, and no feedback from any forums on this topic, so I will go with my theory that this idle set screw exists solely for the purpose of when the engine mechanicals change in such a way (or, perhaps, shearing off some of the head due to decking, sleeving the cylinders, replacement of pistons with non-stock, aftermarket cams, etc.) Since this is my theory and nothing I've actually read anywhere, please don't take it for gospel, and for God's sake, PLEASE don't read this posting as open license to fiddle with that idle set screw. I only did this after a thorough and exhaustive examination of all the sensors, vacuum lines, compression figures, thorough cleaning of the intake manifold, fixing of all exhaust-related issues, O2 sensor monitoring, TPS reference voltage span checks, IAC cleaning and testing, and everything else that could possibly have affected my idle, and finally resolving on a theory related to how the set screw is configured according to factory engine specs and displacement. I'm writing all this so anyone else that happens upon this thread might benefit from it. Even at that, I'm still not 100% convinced that I haven't missed something along the way, but for now the car at least idles more or less stable, and can hold idle with the TEN-GND connector shorted (for timing and such.) Speaking of which, I read from various other posts that the idle screw "doesn't seem to do anything" - IF you go this far, and IF you think it's necessary to change it, after reading all of my blazing warnings above, you might consider this is the base idle, just like base timing, and needs the TEN-GND connector shorted in order to properly set to spec. If you try doing either of those things (timing or idle) without TEN-GND shorted (diagnostic mode,) the ECU is going to do it's life's purpose and compensate to keep the engine running nominally, thus negating everything you do, thus making it appear like the set screw is "doing nothing." Anyway, I hope this helps someone in the future.
  19. smuryof

    Engine vibrations

    I'm kind of confused now. What do you mean "one of the engine heads?" If you're talking about the 2.0L 4-cyl, it's only got one head. Also, why was it changed? Did the engine get hot or something? If it were me, I would run a compression test on all cylinders and look for unbalanced power. If your engine is only partly reconditioned, you will have a difficult time trying to achieve factory-level smoothness. EDIT: To your question, if the harmonic balancer was not changed, then I don't see how it could be causing an issue.
  20. Tiger Newkirt

    Engine vibrations

    Rgr. I had one of the engine heads replaced one month ago, so I assumed they tuned it then. Could the harmonic balancer be the culprit?
  21. GT_FE3

    1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    The $40 genuine MS headers. Excited to put these on. I'll get a high flow cat converter and a sport mid muffler later down the road once its actually drive able without smoke/ imminent transmission failure. Sounds good as it is just quiet like its 100% stock with one muffler cut out. Too quiet. I want it a bit louder just not TX5 loud (hear it blocks away).
  22. cihatdag01

    Hi...

    Hi...I'm from Turkey and live Turkey-Mersin..i have a Mazda 626 2.0 2000 year..I
  23. GT_FE3

    1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    So I am getting figures together. Around $350 trade gets me a full gasket set - rocker cover, sparkplug, intake, exhaust, cam, head gasket, sump and valve stem seals and a few others I've forgotten to mention. Perma seal; aftermarket I have one of their headgaskets in my TX5 and its still good 10 years on. I'm waiting to hear back for the cost of standard NPR rings. Same deal with the bearings. I figure another $350 or so here. I'll have to get front and rear main seals. Around $45 each. I'm going to replace accessory belts - they have cracks. $55 both. I'm re-using cambelt and waterpump from the smokey lump that will save me a little money they both only have 30,000 km on them - 1/3 of their lifespan. Replacement slushbox is $350. I don't know about the converter; it will be extra which I'll need - I don't trust this one (noisy). $900 for a diy engine build and replacement gearbox. It could be possible! So far I've spent $40 on the exhaust manifold. $50 for the long block.
  24. GT_FE3

    Post Up Pictures Of Your 626

    That would be awesome I'd like to see that
  25. Doctor Robert

    Post Up Pictures Of Your 626

    Wow!! Though not quite my cup of tea, that interior is sweeeet! I'm now not feeling so bad about maybe (eventually... like 20 years from now) swapping out interior bits for wood and leather ones (because... vintage sports sedan? ). I don't want to get laughed off the forum, but I'm also thinking about doing a V6 swap (when the engine goes... again). Mostly because everybody else has done the rotary swap to death. The K-series (2.5 maybe) is dear to me because my first car (Mazda MX-3) came with one (theoretically... mine was a 4 banger) but if I could cram a 3 litre J-series one, that be pretty awesome too (and nose heavy, I imagine). I think it's time for a rwd Mazda Capella GTV6... someday.
  26. B R

    Post Up Pictures Of Your 626

    Nope, it was a face lift 2 door and the guy's name is Donnie. This was only 8 months ago.
  27. smuryof

    97 Mazda 626 2.0 ltr. Manual

    Does it move out of gear on its own? Or, just kind of rattle around? Do you mean, it has too much give when you touch it slightly with your hand? Maybe a little more info on your question would yield some better answers...
  28. So, today I ran my vacuum test and it showed healthy vacuum (19-25) with no significant fluctuations or drops, no symptom of vacuum leaks or exhaust restrictions. Pretty smooth. Then, I ran SeaFoam thru the intake as per directions, it made a LOT of smoke (like in all those videos out there) but only a small improvement to where the car can just barely catch and hold idle 70% of the time when coming to a stop / releasing the clutch after moderate RPM drop. I drove 40 hard miles (WOT, release, WOT, release, .... repeat 100 times) on the freeway, because it's still not broken in (but the break-in period shouldn't suffer from this issue anyway.) Then I took another compression test, giving 122 120 115 123 which actually seems pretty good for being early in the break-in period. Next steps, I will try resetting the ECU by removing the battery cable, depressing the brake for 30 seconds, then hooking it back up. If that doesn't help, I'll fiddle with the idle set screw (yes I know this is forbidden, but I moved it before knowing that, tried to set it back to where it was early in this process - it never had any effect, making it worse or better, so that's not the root cause anyway) Last resort, if none of that helps, I'll probably humble myself and take it to a shop for diagnosis.
  29. Rotated6_2

    Post Up Pictures Of Your 626

    Here is an Aussie hardttop that has always been a favourite/benchmark!
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