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  1. Today
  2. Clutch sticking to the ground

    I bled it a few times and it seemed to have worked. Must've been the clutch master cylinder. But now it's a POA to shift. Where i gotta push hard to switch gears. Like i said before it was shifting just fine a week or so ago. Any other ideas?
  3. 1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    Can not stand the 4 speed slusher on this. Useless to me - it works and changes good but I hate not being able to choose when/where I want to change gears myself. I find myself thinking I'd have changed gear now or I wish it would change later. Driving this engine until it dies. The only FE-dohc engine some guy has build and wants $3000 for it along with a rwd gearbox and will only sell it whole. ABS lights were because of the ABS pump. Heap of money wasting crap. Sort of fixed for now. This just drives and feels like an unresponsive appliance - sure its good for its age and mileage. I'd feel a bit more warmth towards it if it was 5 speed, maybe. The unfortunate truth is that motorcycles have my soul. I get on my CBR and I just cringe when I have to use this. I look at the TX5 and I want to fix it. Funds are not there though. No one can tell me if GE spider gears will work in a GD gearbox which is a pain - I've hit the wall at the research stage. If I knew, I would get a junkyard box, swap spider gears over. Sure its not elaborate but at least it would be drive able once again.
  4. Clutch sticking to the ground

    Pressure plate, release bearing?
  5. Yesterday
  6. Last week
  7. Clutch sticking to the ground

    Hey y'all, i've been having recent issues with my clutch catching and sticking to the ground. To get it back I have to pop it back up with my foot. But with it constantly sticking it makes the car undriveable, i've recently replaced the slave cylinder and also the clutch cylinder. No luck. Before this happened it was shifting smoothly and never got caught. Anyone have any other suggestions? I'm open for anything! Just wanting to get my daily driver back up and running smoothly.
  8. When you start the car and you have nothing electrical running (heater/lights), the battery should read 13.7 to 14.7 volts? When you turn heater on, does volts on the battery drop? If yes turn off heater and turn on rear demister. Does the engine revs drop, and volts on battery drop. If yes, check your alternator out put. If the alternator is OK, it could be the battery (check battery connectors and earth) If alternator and battery OK you could have a bad connection somewhere. I had a car many years ago that kept loosing power when I reached 50mph or accelerated. Found the connection had come lose on the coil. Everyone was telling me it was a fuel problem. I hope this helps? If not let me know.
  9. Ok so I cleaned the throttle Body and The IAC cleaned up nice verified that it was working properly with volt meter and apply voltage reinstalled did new gas filter and the gas regulator valve while I was there , put it all together made sure there where no leaks and I still get the same results the car run fines until you put the heat on or try to put the windows up or down at a stop and this only happens when in driving the car at a stop not in park sitting in the yard , really need some help here as this is our only car at the moment and just can,t figure it out , my friend said check transmition fluid level or egr valve , some help please as I am out of work so money is tight and can,t keep spending money only to have the same issue thanks for your time
  10. Serpentine belt replacement

    I am trying to replace my serpentine belt which as far as I understand it is also the radiator belt. My question is there any way to replace this belt without having to take off the head of the engine block to get way down to the third pully that is not seen. Or would it be best to take it to the shop instead.....(very last option). Please help. Thank you. Jdb
  11. rough idle

    **** Update ***** I have finally solved the issue! It ended up being the old valve cover gasket. I changed it and now it idles smoothly!
  12. Sorry I could not help. Have you Googled it? Try: mazda 626 iac cleaning and taking apart
  13. ya i tried that 1 already didn't help my problem i think it's iac but with all the snow and cold here in r.i. i have to wait to get the iac off the car and try the cleaning or replacement thanks for your time i was looking for the post that explained exactly how to do the iac cleaning and taking apart i saw it on here but now can't find it again thanks for your time john in r.i.
  14. Indicator sound but no indicating

    it could be indicating that there is a problem? (ill show myself the door) have a feeling that it may be the immobiliser or a relay. thats as far as im willing to go just in case im heading in the wrong direction.
  15. it could be me, but when idling, the tacho bounces up and down and the motor seems to not find a comfortable place to idle. it usually bounces in the region of 650 to 850rpm. new champion plugs, all gapped to 1.0mm as specified in the manual, oil changed, no fuel problems, and runs as good as ever. but it still concerns me that its floating around like it is. solutions?
  16. Car is a 1983 626 LX coupe 2.0. While I'm stopped at a light, the steering column vibrates a lot, as does the engine hood. Engine doesn't sound rough, idle doesn't seem high. Is this normal? Is there anything I should check which would normally damper the vibration (like engine mounts)? Thanks for any advice. :)
  17. Doors aren't "catching"

    Thank you for this advice - I'll definitely give it a try and report back once I do. :)
  18. Earlier
  19. Odbii Protocol For 2001 626 2.0L V4

    used and OBDII reader on my 2001 mazda 626 and got a short list of codes however the codes and descriptions dont exactly line up the way they should. My codes read with numbers that have crossed descriptions. Not sure why. But it reads, and the dsescriptions are crossed.
  20. Started my Mazda 626 last week and I had the same problem. The car had been standing for nearly a year. I pulled the throttle body intake off and gave a quick squirt of Wynn,s air intake & carburettor cleaner into the throttle body. Now runs perfect. Hope this helps
  21. Erratic Shifting

    Hi All, New here as I just inherited my brothers old I4 4 speed 626, still going strong with 534,000kms on it When I first got the car off him, I drove it home, 2 hours on the highway and thought it was odd that it was sitting 4,000rpm on the freeway. Some investigation last night showed that in 'D' it will stay stuck in 3rd gear and won't really do anything else. We also discovered that the 'L (1)' position on the shifter allows the car to shift from first to second and shifting it from that into '(S) 2' position allows it to go into third and then fourth. If you put it back in drive, it will go bezerk and downshift into 3rd after a moment. We tried turning the hold function on and off but it has no affect on what happens. Has anyone ever heard or something weird like this happening or know what might be causing it?
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  23. Hey folks. Im michael from denmark and i have some problems with my mazda 626 , im looking for some new pistonrings and i cant find dem anywhere. No matter what i seeking for it just dont fit my engine and i cant get any reply from my dealer why and etc, so please!!! what must i look after?? My engine is a 1.8l 1840ccm (other says 1839ccm) 66kw 90hs motorcode is fp and it is a 5/1997 model. chassis number JMZGF12P201115787 Please help me guys.
  24. Repair Manual?

    Mazda 626 Repair Manual.
  25. Thanks for the replies and no, I didn’t get it running but haven’t had a chance to look at it much. I want to check to see if the fuel pump is working. Removed the fuel pump relay and used a jumper wire to ground terminal 30 like it shows to do in the service manual, but it didn’t work. And I also tried it on my 2002 parts car which does run, and it didn’t power up and run the fuel pump on it either. Has anyone used the jumper wire technique as shown in the service manual, and did it work? I did download the 2001 service manual from pmx626 and it’s great!
  26. New distrubitor but no spark

    I haven't yet... Thinking maybe I got a bad distributor.. The coil on the distrbutor is not putting out the right amps.. Also when I got it I open the box and the 3 prong plus was cracked that comes off the coils,. So I have no idea.. I have checked my fuses, timing belt, some relays, and still no spark.. The distributor is turning when I'm crank it over.. I have 12 volts to the 3 prong plug so I have power the but no spark... Even if it jumped time would think u would at least get spark but I'm still at a stand still with it
  27. i have a 99 Mazda 626 4 cyl that i got from a neighbor whose mom passed the car has 72000 original miles sat in the garage for 2 years before i got from her. I did the usual stuff you should do on a car that has been sitting, battery belts wires plugs gaskets filters added a ground wire to the car and the battery as i saw the factory one was rather cheesy and connected to the right side motor mount why they do that who knows ect All of a sudden when we use the heater or power windows the car wants to stall out rpms drop not that the car stalls as it doesn't Also noticed that after warm up the cars rpms are 500 rpms seems kind of low to me i saw a post about the exact same problems with directions and links on how to fix this step by step but can't seem to find it now that i've joined the group ,something about an iac and the plunger maybe be stuck or carboned out? and the map censor( i already cleaned that) Yes i did clean the map sensor and yes i did use map censor cleaner that helped for about a week Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks for your time John B in R.I.
  28. Thanks for responding. I ended up finding the bracket that holds the headlight and grille on eBay. It was a headlight assembly that came with the headlight, marker light bracket and the grille bracket for like $30.
  29. Unusual Connecting Rod Bolts

    I believe a metric 12 point socket will fit.
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