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  1. Today
  2. I put the suspension of a mazda mx6, under my 626. Lowers it a good 3 a 4 cm's.
  3. Did you change everything? belt and pully's or just the timing belt? And even more inportant, did you replace the tensioner spring?
  4. Yesterday
  5. Hello everyone! So I am a new 626 owner, and pretty excited to finally own a Mazda. I've always thought Mazda's were great vehicles and always wanted one. So before I get into the main issue, let me give a bit of a backstory of my car, since it might help diagnose what's going on with it. Well, I was given the car by my mom's boyfriend, who knew I was in search of one since my Ford ZX2 has been sitting at my brothers house waiting to be worked on for half a year. He found the 1997 626 in my town for $450. The reason it was being sold is because the previous owner (assuming an older lady by how he made it sound) put bad gas in it and the car crapped out. Instead of fixing it, she bought a newer car. Now, according to him, she did not do anything to this car while she had it. She didn't even know how to check the air in the tires. So when we got it, the original Mazda oil filter was in it, transmission had very little fluid, brake fluid was almost empty, the battery is the wrong size, along with other small neglectful things. Because of the bad gas, we put Sea Foam in the tank to clear it out, and I put on a new fuel filter, new spark plugs and wires, added transmission and brake fluid, changed the air filter, and changed the oil and oil filter. My brother and I also took Sea Foam to the air intake to try and clean that out. Now let's go to the issues that are currently going on. Before I changed the fuel filter, any time I would take a right turn (occasionally left turns as well) the car would shut off. The power inside would still work, but the engine would just stop running. My brother's co-worker, who had the same year and model of 626 that I have now, had the same issue and said that it was his fuel pressure regulator that caused it. Considering the previous owner put bad gas in it and let it sit, I think it's safe to say that could be the issue since chances are the entire fuel system needs to be replaced now. But seeing how it could be anything causing it (from what I've read in other threads), I'm wanting to get second and third opinions. The only other issue I need to ask about is the transmission. When I first started driving it, it shifted out of first HARD. Felt like a cinder block was in the transmission. Putting fluid in it helped out, but it still occasionally does it. My brother says that it probably needs a flush, but I read on here that flushing the transmission when it doesn't need it could hurt the car instead of helping it. So I'm wanting opinions on that as well. Thanks in advance! Edit: I forgot to mention that when the car shuts off when turning, it also likes to idle pretty rough when at a light, and when I take off I sometimes really need to hit the gas pedal to get it going. And it seems like this mainly happens when it's below 50 outside. When we had 75 degree weather this last week, I was driving with no issue. And I'd also like to ask if it's normal to feel like the smallest gust of wind moves the car around fairly easily. I know it's a lighter vehicle, since the car shakes when I sit down in it (I'm not a big guy), but when I'm driving it feels like if someone blows on my car it wobbles a bit.
  6. RT @VanRyan: Makes me sad, he was not only a great actor and director but a truly great man. He was very loved by others in... https://t.co…

  7. Dreaming Sky, my new picture on #Flickr https://t.co/jcIlAUzRi9 #Photography https://t.co/T5dTorSxGE

  8. Holy crap, that is a CLEAN GT. What is going on with those seats? How rare are those...
  9. You could not pay me any amount of money to redline a 2.2 in any gear, above all 1st. Good god man. The poor engine and trans. With OEM valve springs and head design, there's no power being made up there, not without serious porting and valve train mods. As far as you're problem, could be a spark gap issue. I've stuttered from that. Also ignition timing. You're playing an extremely dangerous game not having a wideband installed. Without knowing AFR, the stuttering could be anything.
  10. So, my original motor had a T-bird hybrid turbo and 360cc injectors from a 323 turbo.I say original because, sadly, I got over confident with the larger injectors and hurt that motor at 15/16 psi at redline."New" used motor installed, everything back to original, with the exception of being back on a stock turbo.Got MJSpies custom O2 housing, Mike Knight's chip, 190lph wahlbro pump, open element air filter with a hood scoop for fresh air, the usual stuff. Back on stock boost:9/10 psiProblem since the new swap: high rpm and sometimes mid range sputter/stutter. Not severe like a misfire but a definite stuttering as you rev through certain parts of the rpm range.Happens mostly at/near 5500/6000 rpm in first, happens less often in 2nd then goes away in higher gears when taken to redline.1st gear, highest strain on everything, high boost at high rpm, so I'm thinking electrical...Replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, igniter, coil. Same issue.Lean on fuel? With (witch hunter rebuilt) 360s and a 190 wahlbro, new filter, new O2 sensor on stock boost?Besides the possibility of a wonky distributor I've replaced the ignition system and I'm thinking I'm not leaning out. Even played with BOV settings to be sure it wasn't leaking.Could, between the 360s and the chip and back down to stock boost levels on the stock turbo, I be possibly running too rich at places in the rpm range? (No wideband as of yet)I've considered valve float but I've experienced that before and it always happened like clockwork at the same rpm, like a rev limiter, every single time whereas this happens enough to be annoying but not in every gear and not consistently; sometimes it pulls clean to redline in first and second and others it doesn't.Even changed thermostat and ECT sensor for ECU. could it be Fuel Press. regulator? Fuel dampener?Any ideas of what I could be missing would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance
  11. So, my original motor had a T-bird hybrid turbo and 360cc injectors from a 323 turbo. I say original because, sadly, I got over confident with the larger injectors and hurt that motor at 15/16 psi at redline. "New" used motor installed, everything back to original, with the exception of being back on a stock turbo. Got MJSpies custom O2 housing, Mike Knight's chip, 190lph wahlbro pump, open element air filter with a hood scoop for fresh air, the usual stuff. Back on stock boost:9/10 psi Problem since the new swap: high rpm and sometimes mid range sputter/stutter. Not severe like a misfire but a definite stuttering as you rev through certain parts of the rpm range. Happens mostly at/near 5500/6000 rpm in first, happens less often in 2nd then goes away in higher gears when taken to redline. 1st gear, highest strain on everything, high boost at high rpm, so I'm thinking electrical...Replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, igniter, coil. Same issue. Lean on fuel? With (witch hunter rebuilt) 360s and a 190 wahlbro, new filter, new O2 sensor on stock boost? Besides the possibility of a wonky distributor I've replaced the ignition system and I'm thinking I'm not leaning out. Even played with BOV settings to be sure it wasn't leaking. Could, between the 360s and the chip and back down to stock boost levels on the stock turbo, I be possibly running too rich at places in the rpm range? (No wideband as of yet) I've considered valve float but I've experienced that before and it always happened like clockwork at the same rpm, like a rev limiter, every single time whereas this happens enough to be annoying but not in every gear and not consistently; sometimes it pulls clean to redline in first and second and others it doesn't. Even changed thermostat and ECT sensor for ECU. FPR regulator? Fuel dampener? Any ideas of what I could be missing would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance
  12. the engine computer shows as a 2001 model year (yay me?) so... maybe i got two cars that were produced the year prior their release? lol
  13. Last week
  14. Interesting idea. I've never used flux on such small wires, the solder I use it rosin core, and I've had good luck with that. I ended up getting a tub rosin flux from Radio Shack for making big power cables. This was the last electrical project I worked on. I think you really would have been proud. Just think of me a couple years ago, shunning electrical systems, lol. Since then, I somehow got into modifying flashlights, which started to open my eyes to the electrical realm a little bit. I replaced the stock 85A alternator in my 4Runner with a souped up GM-style CS144 alternator from AlternatorParts.com putting out 170A. The stocker wasn't keeping up with my dual battery setup. I've now got the big alternator, two Optima batteries (red top starting battery, yellow top deep cycle auxiliary battery for running the ham radio, light bar, fridge/freezer, 2k watt inverter, etc, in the field on trips and camping), a National Luna dual battery controller (allows you to monitor both battery voltages and remotely link them). I also ended up doing the "Big Three" mod, which in my case was the Big Five with the Dual Batteries, since I added an extra ground from the back of the alt case to the bracket mount (Why the Big 3 Wire upgrade should be the Big 4). I ran a new 2ga lead from the alternator output parallel with the stock wire, had to rewire a bit of the fuse box (beefing things up), and added a 200A fuse in series with the regular fuses. Some of the guys on the forum ran them in parallel, which causes them to be additive (100A + 100A = ~200A, not exactly, due to differences in resistance, etc, but close enough), which I didn't want because that sounds like a good way to get a fire in the engine bay, imo. It was one of those projects that started off, "well, other guys said they spent about 2 hours installing this alternator in their 4Runner, I bet it'll take me about 5." But it took 14 over two days, and then the pulley was slightly misaligned, which resulted in me having to call in my buddy with his home-brew off road fabrication shop specialties. He ended up using his Bridgeport mill to shave a bit off the alt where it mounts so that it fit correctly. The belt was off about 3/8", which caused some nice squealing. Making the cables was MUCH more time consuming than I anticipated, but I didn't want to cut any corners. All of the cables I made are USA-made welding cable (ultra flexible), forge crimped with copper lug terminals and then soldered, and then finished with marine-grade heat shrink tubing. Salt is a real concern here, and I wanted these to last. It's all done now, and I've got 14.9V with both batteries charging at idle. I'm thrilled with how it turned out, even if it was a giant headache during the project, lol. Shows both batteries, ridiculous amount of wiring, the new 200A Blue Sea fuse on the side of the battery cage, and just under the dipstick you can barely catch a hint of the new alt. Yes, it's stuffed in there. I think I'm going to have to relocate my oil filter, because I don't think I can get it out. Not pictured is the battery charge controller, up near the master cylinder. Old vs New Just massive Only showing 13.7v, which was the old alt. It has a 5 minute timer delay before linking the batteries after starting the truck to allow the main to charge, which is why they're both not showing the same voltage. The stock alt was dropping down into the mid-12V at idle after it had warmed up, clearly indicating it wasn't happy with the load. It got so low it would disconnect the batteries. Light bar off, just low beams (Osram NightBreaker bulbs - ie. most ridiculous name ever) The brightest LED light bar on the market 325w, and 25k lumens....
  15. I replaced the timing belt that was replaced 67,000 miles ago. It appears it was rubbing on something and the belt was broken. We bought a dayco kit and replaced the belt, water pump and tensioner. It seems the belt is walking off the cam teeth. The timing belt retainer behind the balancer is in place. Also we did a compression test on each cylinder because we have seen on Google that this is and is not an interference motor. The readings were #1 90lbs #2 40 lbs #3 70 lbs #4 100 lbs. Please, someone give me some good news or suggestions. Did i do something wrong? Did I miss something? I'm praying it's not bent valves! TIA
  16. Moderator Please Delete, Accidental Duplicate Post. TIA
  17. I think I got it , It's for light dimmer and you can check , Turn on light's get your multi meter out and check for voltage (also check with key on first before you turn lights on) With lights on use your dimmer switch and watch Vcc it will be lower than 12volts and will go up and down when you move the dimmer. But still think that getting plug from junkyard is a good Idea and really it makes getting the adapter plug from Scocshe easy to wire up as the wire's are standard in color on the adapter plug to the industry... meaning that they would match up in color on the stereo you are installing (aftermarket) if it's a Factory stereo then it be a bit harder but if you buy the adapter for Factory stereo as I did makes life simple I got my adapter plugs from Volunteer stereo in Knoxville Tn , so I just drove over and piked them up after I ordered them on ebay , I put the adapter number in other post. Sorry for confusion it's been a while ,
  18. 01 will have a lot of the same info. http://www.pmx626.info/index.php?dir=US%2FMazda+626+%26+MX-6%2FWork+Shop+Manuals%2FPDF%2F
  19. Here's what I found www.modifiedlife.Com look for your car. But best easy way would go to junkyard get the plugs wire them in, then buy the adapter for radio from scosche and also plug for radio you want to put in. What I found was that there were so many different ways to go, is your radio a FMS OR ? If you get plugs it would really make things simple. But Scosche has a number if you need to ask ? 800-363-4490 EXT 3 for wire color , Mazda kit MA02B.
  20. sweet thanks man ill check that vid out!
  21. I'm sorry I've been at work and I carry a Old flip phone so company can't text me ! . I got the package back out and I was looking for this wire but they don't show this one. Here's what I know the other plug is for rear speakers ?, I can't remember if that was for all speakers, I would look at my radio but the way I installed it it's a job to get the radio out. I also did a lot of research to find wires. I did find a good site but can't remember name but it did have complete list. If you use DVM see if it has power key off then on and how many Vcc. If 12vcc powers radio or if it has very little power it's for light dimmer. You have to check all wires with key on and off . It's been a while so I don't rely know but I'll look around see if I find so new here for you to look at. .
  22. Is anybody trying to get ya boy some lunch and bring it to my job? I will pay you.

  23. I attached a video of my cars issue and I now believe is a problem with the pilot bearing binding.
  24. Loosen every mount through bolt and let the engine idle for maybe 5 mins. I swear my engine is misaligned because when I removed the pass side mount the engine cocked back toward the fire wall and was a pain to get it back in...when u say at idle in gear do you mean with the car stopped only? IMG_1203.MOV
  25. I think I have figured this out but not quite sure. Ive spent many hours researching how to properly hardwire my 99 626 be What is the Yellow/red wire for!?!?!? remote amp turn on? I have no idea and I've been researching wiring diagrams for hours trying to make sure I hardwire my radio properly. When I received the car I was left with no harness, just cut wires. So I'm trying to make do. please help
  26. hey @djdevon3, long shot here, but you wouldn't happen to have a 2002 mazda workshop manual would ya?
  27. Now on the Ultimate Twang blog, remembering #DanFogelberg "High Country Snows". https://t.co/b1wWx9WCjU… https://t.co/7bza2tjgPu

  28. Well, in the ever continuing saga of weird noises and shakes on this car, I'm now left wondering if the mounts need to be aligned after install. I literally don't know what I touched that made the engine now pull a solid -20 PSI, with VERY little variation from that, only time to time it'll go -19 for one second and bounce back. But since recently, I've begun to notice more shakiness at idle while in gear. It's to the point that it reverberates in the cabin and it's rather annoying. I'm now thinking back from when I changed out two mounts initially, front tranny and driver side engine mount; for a few minutes it made things even worse but it wasn't shaking the steering wheel but felt like the chassis. Replaced the other two mounts and it settled down but at the time the engine vacuum was at -18 and blamed it on that. But now, even with a solid -20 PSI, it's still shaky; not in the steering wheel per se like before, but the chassis it feels like. That made me think if they need to actually be fully aligned and if so, what's the procedure for that?
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