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  1. Yesterday
  2. Engine runs perfectly, but when ideling is very lunmpy. I have replaced HT leads and spark plugs. Engine has coved 124,000 miles (200,000Kilometers). Any ideas guys would be helpfiul.
  3. Last week
  4. anyone have any luck sourcing replacement rear struts for cars with the a.a.s. system? The struts for the non a.a.s. model are so tall that the spring is loose. I guess i could find springs and struts from a non turbo but those will make the rear higher.
  5. Hi there I wonder if you find out what is the problem? I have the same issue with my 03 Nissan Murano. I change sparked plugs and and coils, radiator, fan and thermostat were also replaced. They did a head gasket test and it seems fine. But after a lil drive through hills engine starts misfiring and overheating gauge goes up and down...3 shops no body can seem to figure out whats causing that. I like to go out of town to camp specially during the summer time, now im scared to drive to far and do some damage to the engine.
  6. weep hole at the bottom of the waterpump. signs it is going out. Edit: Get a pressure tester.
  7. Hi ALL , from South Africa - If the model differs - So i have a serious coolant leak on my 626 2.0 I4. Issue is , i cannot find the leak , water drips onto the sump but it looks like its coming from around the crankshaft pulley . Has anyone experienced this ? Are there any spots i can try check specifically ? Thanks in Advance
  8. Lowered price to $2000. Realy want this to go to an enthusiast rather than someone who'll beat it up!
  9. Hi Blinger - I think your head gasket is fucked. If ur losing coolant like u say. White smoke is COOLANT burning away...NOT oil. Pull the head and make sure u install the gasket perfectly...it must be done properly. Have fun - Dean Mann Somerset East South Africa
  10. My understanding is the regulator for the alternator is in the PCM - not the alternator. All modern Mazda's are this way, and I assume this must have been one of the first ones that started this way. All my wiring between the PCM and the alternator has tested okay. I've even bypasses the factory wiring harness, and put in a wire straight from the PCM to the alternator - no change. I believe my PCM has failed, I just want confirmation. Does it output a changing voltage, dependent on load? I'm looking at maybe getting a PCM off a wrecked car, but wondering if there are other options.
  11. G'day all. Wondering if anyone can help me out? I'm having problems with my charging system - specifically the PCM control of the alternator. I'm getting B+ to one wire of the plug (W/R), and 0V to the other wire. I've already determined it's the PCM at fault, I'm just not keen on spending $3,000 on a new PCM through Mazda. I'm trying to make a work around, just need to know what voltage I should expect at the second wire? When I apply 5V in place of the PCM, the generator outputs 15.5V. It's the W/L, LG/B wire going to the PCM. The car is a 2000 626 GF Series 2
  12. I've been having all kind of issues. I assumed they have to do with the electrical system. Trunk opens by itself. Doors lock and unlock by themselves. Radio come on by itself, the hazard light come on by themselves. It's very strange. The car seems to be possessed. Has anyone experience a similar problem. I have not done any changes at all to the car. Please help!
  13. Earlier
  14. Hi there, I already know that I'm probably looking for the holy grail - but if anyone have a pair of these mirros, and is willing to sell them to me without killing my pocket I would be very happy. Would need to be shipped to germany with me paying all costs of course. Picture by Rotated6_2 (is that Philip?). Cheers, Benni
  15. Hi there, I just wanted to say hello. This is my 1979 Mazda 626 CB2 Coupé. I bought this car from a collection earlier this year. I owned different british classics and, believe it or not, I am still a huge British Leyland nut. Anyways, I've been always interested in japanese classics, and when my Reliant Scimitar made more and more problems this crossed my way. I'm very happy with it. It's the humble 1.6 in poverty spec. Cheers, Benni
  16. Were can I find a tachometer like that do you know somebody has one for sale? Answer me at Nivelstupido@gmail.com
  17. Summer has begun, which makes it a great time to catch up on vehicle maintenance! And to make now an even better time to inspect and replace your vehicles' worn out parts, over 30,000 of our already low, Wholesaler Closeout priced parts have been discounted another 50-70%! Find Air Filters, Brake Pads, Hydraulic Hoses, Spark Plugs, Tie Rod Ends, Wheel Cylinders and so much more by many top manufacturers such as ACDelco, Beck/Arnley, Bendix, Purolator and Raybestos for as low as $1. As always, Wholesaler Closeouts are in limited quantities. We may get hundreds of one part number and only ten of another. Even if you do not see a Wholesaler Closeout, continue to check out the many other parts listed for your vehicles. Our regular inventory contains a wide selection of parts from top-name manufacturers, always at the reliably low prices you expect. RockAuto.com makes keeping your trusted daily driver on the road even more fun. Agonize over win-win decisions like, "Should I get the $3 set of brake pads for my '93 Nissan Sentra or can I splurge and buy the $6 pads made by my favorite brand?" View Closeout Parts for any Vehicle in the RockAuto.com Catalog! 1. Click the RSS icon next to your vehicle's engine size 2. Click the HTML icon next to "Love a Bargain?"
  18. a/c drain line. normal
  19. I parked on an incline today and spotted water flowing away from underneath my 1997 Mazda 626LX 4cly 2L. Got home and had a peak with flashlight. Small amount of water, maybe 1/2 cup, after a climb into the hills. The water is dripping from a small rubber hose that sticks out about an inch from the left back wall of the engine compartment. I suppose that's the function of that little hose but it doesn't seem natural that it's doing that. Most cars don't have little puddles of water forming under the car after running a few minutes. What's up with this? This car doesn't get a whole lot of use, only around 1000mi/year. It has under 33,000 miles on it. Probably unrelated but I took the same ~10 mile round trip a few days ago (including 800 foot climb into the hills) and something seemed wrong. It seemed to act like the idle was set too low, like it was about to stall out, but it didn't. Whatever that was seems to have stopped happening, it was just that one day.
  20. Is this the FS (inline 4) or KL (V6)? If you haven't yet, grab a factory service manual at http://www.pmx626.info. If will go over the testing procedures. It seems like you are doing the correct procedures. Jumping the wire from pin 30 to pin 87 (bypassing the relay essentially) should activate the fuel pump. The fuse would be under the hood and is labeled as "EGI ING" (30 amps).
  21. I have a question or 10 about a fuel issue. So bought this car -98 626 LX - for my daughter, it ran fine when we parked it about 6 months ago. I went to start it up and it ran for about 5 secs and then shut down and would not restart. I bought some starting fluid and when I use it it will run and then dies. So I started searching the internet about relays fuses etc. and I bought what I think is the right relay but there is still nothing. I cannot locate an actual fuse for the fuel pump just the relay. I bought a new fuel filter for it and changed it out, before I put the new one in I put a rag over the fuel line going to the filter and had the wife crank it over and no fuel. I tried to jumper by following something I saw here- (pulled relay and put a jumper wire from pin 30 to body ground) and see if fuel pump would run manually and there nothing. At no time during any of this did I ever hear the fuel pump either. I did replace the 100 amp main fuse also because I destroyed it trying to take it out so that is new as well ( I saw a video on how to PROPERLY remove the fuse). I saw the video of the guys cutting the floor out to change fuel pump but I really don’t want to do that but I want to make sure I am doing everything to make sure there is not another issue. I.e. wiring. I guess I am looking for a little advice or some help to make sure I am going down the right path. I am guessing I should be able to drop the tank and put a meter on the wires going to the fuel pump to variety voltage? I jacked the car up and see some wires under the tank I am guessing these go to the fuel pump? Is there anything I need to be aware of when dropping tank that I may overlook from just taking out the bolts and having a floor jack under the tank as it’s half full unfortunately. Any help would be great. Oh and the relay I changed was not the green one like I saw some folks do it was the white one that said circuit relay on it.
  22. So, I'll start this off at Mazda's North American Headquarters: Not a sunny day, but still a happy car. Sitting pretty. Brand-new ties, and also a recent front-end brake job: The most expensive thing done to the car since I've had it is the suspension. Some specialists in SoCal put together shocks and parts that worked to replace the electronic originals: Southern California car its entire life, going by the history: The ALF bumper sticker could use a refresh: Looking good down this side too: Step back into 1983 in here: There's wear in certain areas in the interior, but overall it's in remarkable shape: Original miles - not a surprise, given the condition: The radio works! Some of the speakers only work periodically, though. The oscillating vents work great. And, for an added bonus, the A/C system was recently rebuilt (wasn't cheap): Unmolested and mostly original under here: Some notes: *Car sometimes has a dead spot when trying to start (~1 out of 10 tries). If it doesn't turn over, you shift it into neutral and back to park while twisting the key - then, it starts. (Don't ask; no clue.) *Oil looks good and car doesn't seem to burn it. *Right-side rear window doesn't close tightly, and electric motor isn't working on that side. Works fine on the other, and two front windows work fine. *No warranties expressed or given. It's an old car, but a delight to drive. If I had space, I'd be keeping it. *Any questions welcome. Car is south of Los Angeles in Orange County & you're welcome to come see it; just know that my time is very limited, so be patient with scheduling. Prefer a local buyer, but ask me if you're elsewhere and serious about the car. $2000
  23. Yup, pictures are on their way. I will post them here.
  24. Did you have any pictures? Might help with the sale.
  25. The 2002 is a pretty solid car. The 98-02 V6 is a KLG4 and has solid lifters. I think those have to be shimmed in order to be fixed unlike hydraulic lifters which are mostly maintenance free. It is odd because I never had that issue with my 99 for the 100k miles I drove it. I would suggest getting some fresh oil in there with an oil change. The KL oil filters are tiny, but luckily there are other filters with the same threads and diameter which will work. You should be able to find that information on this forum. If you don't have a factory service manual, check out http://www.pmx626.info and get the 2001 service manual (2000-2002 should be the same).
  26. Want to buy a period correct, model specific Front spoiler/air dam for my CB2. Must be in good cond., reasonably priced, and located in US (to keep shipping cost down). Best to contact me directly by email: brcointl at Hotmail.com Thanks
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