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  1. Last week
  2. Thanks in advance for any and all ideas! I have a 1999 626 I4 2.0L manual transmission with about 135000 miles. Recently, it was having a tough time starting, and could only start with the accelerator pedal pressed somewhat. I took it into the shop, and the mechanic found a vacuum leak, and replaced the intake manifold gasket. He mentioned that the IAC may need to be replaced too, and said it would idle a bit low until the computer readjusted. Over the next couple weeks, it drove somewhat okay but with low idle, and the engine would sometimes stall at a stop with the AC turned on. Suspecting the IAC, I bought a new cheapo replacement off of Amazon. The IAC has a metal manifold side, and a solenoid side. The manifold side is difficult to remove from the throttle housing body, so I just removed the torx screws holding the two parts together, and put the new solenoid + plunger on the old manifold. With the new solenoid on, I started the car. The engine surges to 4000 rpm for about 10 seconds and then hunts between 1200 and 1500 back and forth every couple seconds or so. I let the car run like this stationary for about 15 minutes hoping the computer would relearn the new IAC, but no luck. Here's the weird part. I put the old IAC solenoid back on, and got the same engine surge followed by idle hunting. If I unplug the IAC, the car drives mostly fine after I warm it up with some foot on the gas; otherwise it would idle around 500. I took the car back to the mechanic and he checked that there is no other vacuum leak, and reset the ECU several times, but it makes no difference. The mechanic suggested replacing the entire throttle body, but that seems like a lot of work just based on a hunch. I read that I may need to reset the ECU's IAC settings by removing the IAC connector and TPS connector, turning the car to ON for 30 seconds then OFF, then plugging the connectors back in. I tried this with no effect. Anyone have any ideas on what to try next? Thanks!
  3. I have seen this posted here in a search but with no replies, I have dug as much as I can and have found little info about this issue. Basically this car is a customer, they simply bought it and wanted to get the a/c working, I diagnosed it as a blocked up accumulator so I got a four seasons kit from RockAuto, replaced the compressor and orifice tube, however the accumulator connection going to the evaporator was too small, sent it back and ordered and different brand (GPD) and it was the same way, O'Reilly was able to get their hands on a four seasons, and of course it's also too small. The local Mazda dealer says they can't even get their hands on one. So I did more digging and discovered that the accumulators are different after 4/22/02 build date, however I cannot figure out how to search for one. I fear my only option is to talk this guy into now buying an evaporator and paying me to pull the dash and replace assuming the one I order will match up to the accumulator I now have on hand. I'm hoping someone has ran into this issue and may know a solution better than pulling the dash, the guy got the car at a good price, but he's paying me to do the a/c system, plus I rebuilt the struts and replaced rear sway bar bushings and got it lined up, so he's not gonna want to spend any more but the car is in great shape. Any help or info would be well received thanx for reading.
  4. I am in the process of replacing the metal flared line that goes into the slave cylinder. Mine had a small hairline split in it that could only be seen while hand pumping the clutch petal. I would try bleeding the slave cylinder again to release any air and then have someone pump the clutch until you find the leak between the slave cylinder and the master cylinder. Most likely you will have a leak somewhere on one of those lines
  5. Sorry about that. Thank you for the response though.
  6. You posted to a 7yr old post. Really should have started a new one. You didn't give the year but this sounds more like a dealer parts department question. They're usually pretty helpful.
  7. My brake master cylinder was leaking and lost all of the clutch (it went straight To the floor). I replaced the master cylinder, bled the brakes and then attempted to bleed the clutch at the bleeder nut on the slave cylinder. It still wasn’t building any pressure so I had my friend pump the clutch by hand and once most of the air was out I found a small split on my flared metal line going into the slave cylinder. Is this a line I will have to bend myself or are they available pre shaped?
  8. Swapping TNS relay for A/C relay with same specs (a/c is known working) produces same symptoms. Not TNS relay
  9. I have a 2000 626. Driving home last night all of my tail lights suddenly stopped working. No rear brake lights, parking lights, turn signals License plate bulb is on 3rd brake light (in rear window) works. Gauge cluster has illumination. Headlights and front turn signals/parking lights work. I checked all fuses and they appear fine. Can anyone help me out? I have done some searching but not found anything that matches exactly. Need to fix this by the start of the week and can't drive it like it is to a shop (re safety)
  10. Prefer a hatchback manual with 4WS. Hopefully located in the midwest, but I'm willing to travel. Will pay good money for the right car... Show me what you got!
  11. Earlier
  12. Hardtop, for me, prettier lines. For all round practicality, sedan!
  13. Did you ever get it started I have the same issue with my 99 626 4cyl manual can't figure it out please let me know if you do
  14. How do you change out the 120A fuse some call mainline fuse and others call a battery terminal fuse on a 2000 Mazda Millenia i disconnected the battery terminal cables but there is no where to take out the fuse and replace it. Mazda dealer says it has little bolts that hold it in and nope did not find any little bolts
  15. WOW! I was there for last year's show and I didn't win anything! I think I need to polish more.... Congratulations!
  16. Boost controller to dial in an extra lb or 2 of boost AND/OR a bigger/less restrictive intercooler.
  17. Kind of a necro thread, but it's still on the first page... =) If anyone is interested to know, that is a Reed Valve box on the strut tower, which pulls air into the exhaust for the 2nd catalytic converter using the pulse of the exhaust to draw vacuum thru the Reed Valve, which stops back flow. It actually connects to the exhaust just behind the 1st catalytic converter, before the flex joint in the exhaust. This was used on turbo cars in place of an air pump for emissions regs. It can be deleted easily by connecting one hose across the two pipes (I used the existing hoses and joined them with a small piece of pipe), or more difficult is to remove the pipes and block the port on the exhaust pipe. It's not a power drain like an air pump, and as it will probably affect the 2nd cat's performance, it's not really recommendable to remove. But it serves no purpose at all if you have removed the 2nd cat. Typically, their mountings would get brittle with age and break, causing a racket of knocking and buzzing. If you just remove the box, exhaust comes out of the pipes.
  18. AAS springs tended to sag as they age and yours may have lost some free-length. My black GC was converted to standard struts with all AAS springs, and my blue GC was done with AAS springs in front and non-AAS springs in the rear. There was no appreciable difference in ride height or handling. Since then, Blue is riding on '97 front struts which raised the front end about 3/4" over stock GC ride height.
  19. As I understand it, the RF and FE blocks are identical. The only difference is the crank is drilled for 8 bolts on an RF flywheel as opposed to 6 for an FE. The gearing may be different, and possibly totally unsuited to a gasoline engine, you would want to make sure of the ratios first. The following thread has lots of interchange information, even though the first post was truncated at some point and some of it is missing now. Also search through chief_tool's posts, he owned a diesel 626 for a while and talked about it lots when he was active here.
  20. Have you checked rockauto? More importantly, has the MAF been certainly diagnosed as the problem (either by yourself or a garage technician)? Rough idle can be caused by many factors, and more often than not, it is a maintenance related item like a clogged air filter, worn spark plugs or faulty ignition components, dirty intake, or possibly old or worn timing components. Sometimes, a fuel system issue can cause a rough idle. In most cases when I have experienced with a MAF failure, the vehicle will idle fine but does not drive well. I'm guessing your car is a GC series? If so, the MAF is a door-type Bosch AFM (air flow meter), which fails most often due to a weak return spring or internal corrosion. Several vehicles in this age range use a similar system, but I am uncertain if any of them interchange as they can be designed for different reference voltages. If you are savvy with a Multi-meter, you should be able to determine if the AFM is putting out correct signals. If any of this is over your head, I would highly recommend a diagnosis from a licensed and trusted technician.
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