Just an update on the 626 racer...
We ran in the Champcar Endurance Series 24-hour race at VIR this weekend. Out of 97 cars to make it to the grid, we finished 15th overall and won B-class. We're happy with those results out of an under powered 4-door Mazda, lol. Even during high ambient temps, our water temps were well below 200* and our oil temps never got over 220*. We will be back at Sebring in September racing in the CCES 14-hour race, where we won B-class last year as well. We have a number of solid, fast and reliable rental drivers, which helps make this possible.
In February, at the Road Atlanta 14-hour, we broke the 3-4 shift fork, effectively ending our race. This was disappointing, as we moved the car from 78th position at the start to 17th by lap 239 and with about 5 hours left in the race.
We fixed the car for the April race at Daytona-Rolex. Unfortunately, a defective Hydramat caused a fuel starvation issue on the banking, which led to a lean condition causing detonation and the eventual demise of a connecting rod after about 4 hours.
A replacement FS motor was installed and tuned and it made very similar horsepower to the engine we previously had in the car. The car runs about mid-pack lap times, but can run a full 2-hour stint on fuel (with ease), so it is competitive in endurance racing. We've also modified the rollcage to accommodate drivers over 6'-0". The original cage was very close to the steering wheel and offered no ability to slide the seat and almost no layback, making the seating position quite uncomfortable for some. The seat mount has been redone as well and the seat is on a slider with the slider bar being foot actuated for ease of use by the driver.
So the 626 is still going strong. We've got over 60 hours of racing on it and no plans to move on at anytime in the near future.
Most likely the cam caps need to be replaced I had the same issue in the past. I would replace everything except those because I was scared. The oil and heat does warp the covers. If you look around online you might find a mazda dealer selling wholesale or clearing them out for less. The you pull it and salvage yards will have plenty of covers for you now since the cars out being retired now. I lost min last year with 250k.
I have a Mazda 626 v6 1993 when I start the motor it idles perfect but when I rev the engine the large fan turns on when I let the engine idle the fan turns off. It seams like it is stuck in diagnostic mode. Is that possible?
I'll go ahead and introduce myself, I'm Ty'Eira Marie Morrison. This is my recently acquired Hunter Green Mica Metallic '95 ES-V6 automatic, affectionately named "Old Six". I've had the pleasure of owning this wonderful Mazda for a good seven weeks now, she's starting to show me that I can have faith in a $600 beater with a heater. I had my doubts about jumping into an automatic 626 at first (seeing as how the reputation of them has resulted in the death of most of these cars), but I ABSOLUTELY had to have a GE platform 626 because of the resemblence of the larger '90-'94 929. So far, in my seven weeks of ownership, I've managed to:
1) Replace the broken factory cassette player and dealer-installed in-dash CD changer controller (trunk changer was missing, I believe she told me it was 10-disc) with a working cassette unit from a '96 LX and working in-dash CD player from a '94 ES-V6;
2) Clean up headlights, fog lights, interior, wheels, and paint with a Nu Finish wax job;
3) replace the busted grille and add a factory lip spoiler from a '96 LX, find a replacement passenger sunvisor, order new headliner material, order a 3-button '90s Ford key fob and Mazda Eternal Flame fob case and program it to the factory alarm system, despite the "PANIC" feature being inoperable.
Tinted windows, Gold emblem package, new hood, fresh paint w/pinstripe removal, "ES" fender decals, '95+ Shogun PGT blades (aluminum or '97 GTS chrome doesn't matter at this point, since I can find either matching centre caps), new Driftwood seats, wood dash panelling, spare manual transmission/parts, hi-rise spoiler w/CHMSL, and hopefully a spare motor just in case (it makes me so sad about not ever being able to get a Euro lip kit, I really like that kit).
So far, all she seems to need is valve cover gaskets, a new exhaust system and front suspension work. But I'm growing to love this Mazda more and more every day, I can't wait to move and add a matching Hunter Green Mica Metallic MX-6 LS and a BG Protégé to my fleet (yes, this car has released my inner Mazda enthusiasm). This car has been sort of a lifelong bucket list car, and #2 on my list of dream cars because of how underrated it is and how much potential this car has. I've shown a little bit of the transformation I was able to make, since I'm on the parts hunt for two different cars (also have a '93 Pontiac Grand Am GT Quad 4 High Output Sedan I'm working on restoring). So far, the lip spoiler works with the stock look and wheels, but I want to see what she looks like when done. I'm anxiously awaiting the moment this $600 beaten heap is transformed into a $2000 work of vivid art... and I'm proud thus far to be a part of the 626 community.
After 3 new starters, 2 new battery cables, and a new "ignition safety" switch on the shifter (whatever keeps it from starting in drive), here's where I'm at:
Car starts okay sometimes, sometimes won't. When it doesn't, I twist the key while shifting it into neutral - then it starts.
Remember, switch on shifter has already been replaced. What do you think? A short, maybe?
Alright so here's the deal, the fans don't turn on, even with the ECT sensor unplugged(and replaced). I've replaced all the relays and ive tested the fans (they work when connected to a direct power source) the relays are getting power from the engine but the wires coming from the relay box to the cooling fans are not drawing any power. I'm stumped.
1. Dunno. Possibly some previous owner who changed the timing belt and forced the timing cover back on?
2. If I remember correctly, you don't need to remove the motor mount or anything. [Edit: You need to remove the dipstick holder; I can't remember if you have to remove the crank pulley and accessory belts.] It's just very awkward to get the timing cover into place in such a cramped location.
3. The timing cover should never (normally) need replacing. Get one from a junkyard.
4. No. The timing cover's job is to keep dirt off the timing belt; not to keep oil in. Something else is causing the leak. My guess is that the camshaft cap has come loose. It's about the size of a US quarter, very near the oil dipstick, just underneath that thing for lifting the engine. Common problem. Let's hope my guess is right, because that's an easy fix.
5. Rags. But the worry is that oil has gotten onto the timing belt, which will shorten its life.
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2002 mazda 626 LX, 2.5L V6 (KL)
I have a major oil leak that has saturated the most of the bottom of my engine compartment on the passenger side. The timing cover has come away from the engine in multiple places, including where the two pieces meet in the middle. I've already done some work in that area of the engine, including changing the alternator and replacing the crankshaft pulley and both belts. My questions:
1. What would cause the timing cover to not meet up with the block anymore? it's as if it is warped, there's large gaps on the top of both sides.
2. Is it difficult to change these pieces, relative to the other work i've done on this car? Do I have to remove the motor mount or any other components to gain access to the covers or bolts?
3. Apparently they don't make after-market timing covers. Is this because they don't require replacement very often? OEM parts are about $200. Any reason I shouldn't get a pair from a salvage yard?
4. Could a timing cover failure like this lead to such a big leak, or is it likely something else is leaking as well?
5. Whats the best way to clean all this up after I've fixed the problem?