Ok...here's an update.
I had the thermostat replaced; the oil pan gasket replaced (turns out it was only siliconed in place — I haven't had that touched since I bought the car 9 years ago (shudder); the coolant overflow bottle (it was leaking like a sieve when they did a pressure test; I had it replaced not quite 3 years ago); and one of the two valve cover gaskets (the other will likely be done in two oil changes, unless things look dire). The car is running cooler, though things aren't perfect — when I'm stopped at a light, or even running down the highway at 70 (65 or 55 isn't quite so bad), even without AC, the temperature gauge keeps creeping up, though it never reaches the danger zone mark.
My mechanic is going to replace the aftermarket radiator fans with OEM fans — thankfully his parts guy was happy to do the exchange without charging more — and we will see if they were insufficient for the task. If the overheating continues, this leaves us with a couple options, neither of which are pretty:
The radiator needs to be replaced.
The head gasket is going/going/gone.
When we do the fan swap he's going to test for exhaust in the radiator fluid, and we'll go from there. Any other suggestions as to what else it could be? The car generates good heat (outside of the engine itself tending toward overheating), so the heater core is fine, and we've narrowed it down pretty well so far, it seems, especially as we replaced the water pump last year.
If it turns out to be the radiator, are there any cheaper varieties you've used with success?
Here's the scenario:
*Sometimes starts perfectly.
*Sometimes, when turning key to start after all emergency lights come on, nothing happens and all lights go out.
*Turning key to ACC after this happens makes a rapid clicking sound. But everything else dark, no start.
*Trying again and again might eventually get the car to start, without the emergency lights ever coming on.
*Car has brand new starter, and was doing the same thing before starter replaced.
Any ideas appreciated!
Possible it could be a few things. Did it overheat? Was the engine at high RPMS?
Worst case - It could be mechanical damage from within. Maybe a broken piston ring. Could be valve damage. Could be the bottom end bearings. Compression test is your best bet. A low reading will tell you which cylinder has the damage.
As of today I have just noticed the cooling fan suddenly isn't coming on when the car is sitting stationary, it didn't overheat but once I got moving the temperature settled back down to normal operating temp and only started rising back up if I was held stationary for longer than a minute or so.
Here's what I have done:
Our workshop manual says to test the circuit disconnect the thermoswitch and see if the fan comes on, it DOESN'T. The manual says to check the cooling fan itself, the relay and any associated wiring with that circuit.
I haven't pulled the fan out and physically tested it with an amp meter as it says to do, but it turns on when you turn the Air Conditioning on so I'm assuming the fan is good?
I Have swapped the horn relay for the cooling fan relay at the back of the engine bay (relay set attached to firewall) and the horn still works with the cooling fan relay.
Reading the wiring manual it says there is a second relay that's located at the front of the vehicle on the passenger side between the battery and the cooling fan, there's 2 relays there but matching the wiring up I found the second relay and swapped the 2 relays at the front around and then disconnected the thermoswitch with the ignition on. Still nothing.
The car has cooled down a little bit but the thermoswitch still doesn't have any continuity, the manual states that there should be continuity inside the switch up to 91 degrees celsius and then after that the circuit is broken activating the fan, so at this stage the thermoswitch does appear to be renewed (I'm waiting for the car to cool down further to double check this) but even if the switch needs renewing it doesn't seem to be causing the issue?
Someone with better knowledge is more than welcome to correct me on any of this.
My Mazda 626 has an original stereo with cassette player. It has an amp with it too. But whenever I play music the back speaker makes a buzzing sound continuous and it doesnt stop. What to do with ug
What other parts will I need? The parts dealer I spoke with said I'll need trans support bearings and/or bushings. He wasn't sure about it and didn't know if he could even get those parts for me. Thanks.
Here you go, young fella!