I hint at bad ground my daughter has an 08 6 she would go out go to crank it lights come on go to crank loose all power no nothing. I traced it to a bad ground wire (Negative Battery Cable) cut it off as short as I could. Put on a new one $8.00 at auto parts store & sanded a place on the body for a good ground she's had no trouble since....... Bad ground will make that alarm go nuts at times try negative cable first............. So my opinion is with NickR (Bad Ground)
Definitely not the fuel pump, because the fuel pump has nothing to do with the engine cranking.
You say you turn the key and sometimes (when it won't crank) the "interior" lights don't come on? You mean the lights on the dashboard don't come on? That sounds like it might be the security system, or the ignition switch, or some sort of fault in the wiring, like a bad ground.
Hey! I'm a new member who's been looking arround the internet, but still have some questions.
Im looking at a 1991 626 2.0 glx sedan (90hp) with 340k kms, but looks to be in good condition. If mileage isn't an issue, what would be suggested mods, and problems to look out for with this model?
90hp engine, this is an FE DOHC or?
I want to put it on coils or stiffer springs, recommendations?
How is the stiffness of this chassis, and how should improve this?
Opinions on linked car? Here (Norwegian web page)
Any help is greatly appreciated!
I have 2001 Mazda 626. I have been having problems with the starting in the car for a while, I had the battery, alternator and starter fixed. All brand new. But my car is still acting up. It will start once, run just fine and keep going until you turn it off. Then it won’t start back up. There’s no crank at all. I turn the key once after shutting it off and the interior lights come on, turn the key back and then try it again, no lights at all. I will leave the car and come back in a few days to a few weeks and hope that it will start again. Sometimes it does just to have above happen over again in cycle. Many people have given me their opinion that it might be the fuel pump or the security in the car and I was looking for more opinions because as I stand, I ran out of money to take it to the shop. If it is security, I don’t know if this would hint towards that option, but when I unlock the car with key (I don’t have a fob) the alarm will still go off unless I very quickly turn it on before the alarm sounds. It’s not every time I unlock the car but pretty close to.
Thanks for the help.
So I went ahead and ordered a Crank Shaft Position Sensor, based on the fact that I have no RPMs showing on Crank. Comes in on Friday, Hopefully early enough for me to install it before work. If that doesn't do it, then I'm going to be stuck and I'll focus on fixing my wife's POS Chevy Equinox.
On further checking, I think I was wrong about the 12 volts.
Hmmm. I sold my 2002 626 some years back, so I can't remember exactly what crank position sensors it has. But I think there's one down by the crank pulley. For the 1993 to 1998 cars, there should be resistance of between 520 and 580 ohms between the 2 wires going to that crank position sensor. I don't know if it's the same for the 1998-2002 cars, but it might be worth checking the resistance with your multimeter. Then I think there's a second one on the rear cam shaft.