I recently got a 1996 Mazda 626 on the cheap, and it's got some quirks I'm trying to track down.
When you first start it in the morning, the car idles at 2k until it gets to temperature, where it settles down at 800 RPM. It also shifts a bit hard when cold, and the first time it hits 25 mph after a cold start, the revs jump up to 5k before the car shifts and continues forward (the car has to sit for 5 hours or so before it's reproducible)
I haven't checked much other than fluid levels so far, to make sure the transmission wasn't running dry or something. I've repaired all my vehicles in the past, but as they've been all motorcycles, I'm not entirely sure where I should start. I'm hoping the high idle is just a vacuum leak somewhere, but I've heard some cars idle high when cold by design, which sounds really odd.
I can only suggest check over every fuse. Edit: I would try and narrow down whether it's spark or fuel. Plug removed and place near the engine and look for spark. Or starting fluid. So you can decide the course of action determining why one of those is missing.
Sorry for this being a Ford Probe and not a mazda - But I think there pretty much the same? Feel free to delete if I'm wrong. Im going bonkers and any help is greatly appreciated:
Hey guys, pulling my hair out. Everything was running fine apart from the ABS light was on. Followed the advice for getting the ABS error codes and now the car wont start. The engine turns over but nothing electronic seems to happen. Checked the battery - thats fine. A few other points:
- We reset the ECU whilst getting the codes (Disconnected the negative terminal of the battery and held down the brake pedal for 5 minutes.) - We've checked all the fuses and they are all fine. - I'm pretty sure we shorted the right boxes - TBS and GND - but is it possible we bridged the wrong ones. Would this cause serious damage, and how could we find out if this is what we've done?
Any ideas are greatly appreciated as I'm not even sure where to start here. The immobiliser acts normal - Slow blinking until the key fob is pressed, then a solid blink and then its out.
I was able to check one out. Completely different MAF sensor. So I was able to get mine to seal by screwing the two halves together with wood screws, which work better in plastic than sheetmetal screws. Only problem is that the entire assembly needs to come out in order to get to the filter. Oh well.
That little more is the throttle cable.
You will have to take it off to fully remove the throttle body.
There's an easy way to do it. Push the (gear) slide that the little cable is connected to down
Grab the cable and pull it under and around and towards the drivers side of the car. It won't move far.
There is a little pin that it's connected to, push that pin out and the cable will pop right off.
It will probably take a few tries for you to get it
2000 Mazda 626 2.5L V6 - Manual Transmission
Hello, I'll try to keep this short and to the point.
My Mazda was losing power between 3000 and 4000 RPMs (60-80MPH) and then one day - poof, I can't gain any accelaration.
I check the codes and I get
P0340 - CPS sens A
P0400- EGR Valve
P0300- Rand mmf
P0171 - B1 Lean
P0175- B2 lean
P0131 -32-33-34-35-36 - Rand MF
I replaced the spark plugs already, I cleaned the throttle body.
Im really not a mechanic but I learn fast, I'm assuming check the EGR valve and either clean or replace it.
I was told it could be Mass Airflow sensor, and cam position sensor.
I ended up taking the car to a mechanic after the stuff I wrote about above. He called me and told me that the car is running rich (was lean when I checked before replacing plugs), and that he could replace the EGR valve but that may not fix the issue. He said that it's probably not even worth repairing the vehicle because it would be too costly. I don't fully trust the guy to be honest, he has done me wrong in the past.
Now to get to the point.
What should I do? Should I fix the car? Is it fairly simple. I'm pretty sure I can handle it myself.
In my mind I see myself figuring our where the EGR valve is, removing it and cleaning it as well as the ports it connects to making sure the carbon is removed.
What else could be causing the problem? Should I replace the Mass airflow sensor and cam position sensor after cleaning the EGR system?
What other issues could it be? Is it really not worth fixing?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
I really can't afford to lose this vehicle but I also can't afford to dump money into it if it's going to cost thousands of dollars.