First of all you shouldn't make a Video of Something like this in the Dark very difficult to determine if this is white smoke or it's burning oil ! (Neither is a Cheap Fix) If this is white Smoke as We call it here in America which means it looks more like Steam Coming out of the Tail Pipe ? That's an Indication a (Head Gasket has Blown) ! If this is Oil Burning Smoke (which you can tell the difference) Between the two then that's an Indication Piston Rings are Worn & Allowing Oil to Slip past the Piston & Enter the Combustion Chamber Burning on the Power Stroke & Exiting on the Exhaust Stroke.... This is no Cheap Fix Either way if (white smoke) then the Removal of the Head is Required New Head Gasket as well & while the Head is off have it Reworked by a Machine Shop have the Cylinder Head Resurfaced & Reworked Check for a Crack or Cracks or Warped Cylinder Head . If this is Black Smoke (burning oil) then best to Find another Motor to put in it! This requires a(Major Overhaul of the Entire Motor) Pistons have to come out Crankshaft (Everything) Block Reworked New Rings New Main Bearings New Rod Bearings... Allot of $.............Plus while you have the Bottom Half Torn Down have the Cylinder Head Reworked as well..........
Hello, we're currently working on removing an alternator from a 2000 Mazda 626 LX (2.0 4 cylinder) and could use a bit of advice.
The alternator has been loosened completely and we're now just trying to find the best course for removing it from the vehicle. Clearance is obviously an issue. The top and bottom both appear tricky as of now. We've read some threads here and watched some Youtube videos as well, but most of the existing info seems to revolve around slightly different models. If there is anyone that could advise which steps need to be taken to help give some clearance either on bottom or top for the 2000 626 LX with a 4 cylinder in particular, it would be much appreciated.
Some images have been attached if they're of any help. Thank you.
I am trying to bring this nice car back from being abandoned. The trunk lock release by drivers seat, doesn't release trunk, backseats locked upright, key pushes on something, a quarter turn to the right only. Does not pop the trunk. I greased where the key slips in. It is a bit easier to turn now and pops back to the upright position, once it is traveling in that direction. Then I noticed that the ignition key, goes all the way into the key opening on the ignition, but does not go all the way in on the trunk lock. Could that be something to do with the issue? Also is turning it to the right the correct direction and how far should it turn to open the trunk? I wonder which is the best way into the trunk if the key never works. Would it work to take the bolts out that are holding the bottom of the verticle part of the back seat? Would I have enough room to somehow release them from the trunk hold downs? Thanks very much.
Wow. I'm working on a 2002 car. Same engine and almost EXACTLY the same problem. I was excited to see this posting but then was saddened at the end as the problem didn't seem to ever get solved only an engine replacement.
I also have one other weirdness in my puzzle and that is NO spark at all on any cylinder.
I thought maybe i miss read the alignment marks or something so i pulled all covers off again and all my marks are dead on where they should be. I'm at a complete loss on this one.
Is there any other sensor on this car that would cause a 100% no spark situation? For example I was working on a 2003 mercury mountaineer. I did a timing chain and the whole works. got it all together and I usually fire the car up for 10 seconds just to hear it before filling up the radiator and buttoning things up completly. What I learned on that motor was the coolant sensor will prevent the engine from starting without coolant. Neat feature but took a while to figure out that one.
This care of course i already have coolant but thought if there was a sensor like that that was faulty maybe it could be a similar issue with the no spark problem.
Welcome Matt! Awesome colour as well!!!!
If you're not a member of this 626 FB page, then time to join.
Here's a pic of my yellow 626 - paint code YW!
Good day. Is there's any way to aim my 626's headlights? The manual I found online doesn't apply to me since it seems to have a different headlight assembly. For instance: It keeps mentioning a level bubble supposedly built into the assembly, which mine clearly doesn't have. The turn signal also comes with the headlight in the said manual, while mine has it as a separate unit altogether.
For reference, here's what my 626's headlight assembly looks like:
Got the images from
G'day, my name is Matt, live on Gold Coast.
My brother in law has a large collection of old Mazdas (bongos, B1600s, 323s, 626s) all pre-1980 stuff.
I bought a '79 626 off him that I am trying to get on the road, new windscrenn, change to a 5 speed then RW and should be good to go.
Hopefully by March i will have it ready, anyone in south east qld who wants to go for cruise let me know, look forward to it.