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Ring Job On Fs And Fp Engines

smoke on startup piston rings

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#1
alucard

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complete ring job and burn in, from start to finish, all in pictures...

start with an engine: here's mine...
12062012278.jpg

remove the air duct
12062012279.jpg

then remove the air cleaner box
12062012280.jpg

next take the plastic that resides around the left wheel arch (as you look at the engine with the hood up)
12062012281.jpg

take the down pipe for the exhaust off. you will require a 14mm deep socket or a combination spanner, to replace the pipe at the end of the job...
12062012282.jpg

next remove the 6 19mm bolts, the 2 14mm bolts and the 2 12mm bolts that hold the bell housing on to the engine. i removed the starter motor as well but that was probably not needed.
17062012283.jpg

now bring out a large screwdriver, and a pry bar, there is a slot so you can pry the bell housing away from the engine block. this will tak about half an hour of grunting and swearing at it...
17062012284.jpg

looking at it from underneath you should begin to see this:
17062012285.jpg

the objective is to get to the two bolts shown here:
17062012288.jpg

you may need to pry the bell housing and block apart to get the ratchet in and out of the tight spot. if memory serves me right they are 10 mm. if the two cut outs are not there in your flywheel then rotate the engine 180 degrees.
17062012289.jpg

now remove the lower and upper oil pans, remember to drain them, however it is possible to remove the lower oil pan and leave the oil in it...

admire your big end...
17062012290.jpg

remove the air intake, and the valve cover. see djdevon3's videos if you need any guidance on how to do this
17062012291.jpg
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#2
alucard

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here's another picture of the mostly disassembled engine; don't ask me why, i have no idea what changed either...
17062012293.jpg

remove the heater exchange block. if you haven't drained your coolant, now would be a good time to do so, or you'll get wet feet and a wet clutch...
17062012294.jpg

remove the camshafts and then take the head off, once again see djdevon3's videos if you need any clarification on this... just don't forget to undo in a clockwise order...
17062012295.jpg

now undo your big ends and set them to one side, make sure that your bearings and caps are placed so that you know which one comes from which cylinder... mixing them up is just asking for premature wear... then use a long and BLUNT object to push the pistons up through the cylinder till they pop out...17062012297.jpg

and when they're all out, have a cup of tea... and admire your handywork...17062012298.jpg

#3
alucard

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now we get the fun bit, the rings... you'll need to check your rings are in spec for replacement, this means the end gap the thickness and the ring to piston gap will need to be checked...

specs to go here when i find them:
:
:
:


my rings from npr were ready sized for a stock na engine... remember to adjust if you've slapped a turbo on...

take your piston, and clean it, mine have been cleaned of all deposits, but if you wish you could do a polised finish like djdevon3...
18062012299.jpg

take the first ring, and pry it out of the groove it sits in like so
18062012301.jpg

run the screwdriver or whatever you use to pry around the ring and the first one will just pop out...
18062012300.jpg

do the oil control rings by hand, they flex easily and can be removed under finger power...

then do the 2nd ring last... the second ring is stiff... really stiff... it takes a screwdriver to pry it out... be patient and it will come... out of 4 pistons i broke one ring when removing them, and it was a second ring...

clean the groove, and replace with new rings in the order oil control, 2nd then first... once again oil control rings will flex easily and go in quickly. take your time with the 2nd ring and ease it a bit at a time and it will go on with out breaking... the first ring will seem like a walk in the park then...


now get out your trusty drill and hone, and hone those cylinders... this is a before and after of my hone job... i used a three legged hone about 4-500 rpm and 4-5 passes...
18062012303.jpg

don't clean the cylinders before honing, the oil will act as extra lube, and don't forget to wet your honing stones if you need to... be careful as you get to the bottom not to catch the oil squirter as you push down and bring up....

next clean your cylinders, i mean an oily rag up and down the inside, make sure the surface is coated with oil all over before you put ant piston back in... make sure the surface is also free of metal shards and debris from the honing process... i used water for the first two wipes (up and down the cylinder) and oil for the last two.. then i used a oily peice of paper towel to coat the cylinder in oil...
18062012304.jpg

observe the "F" on the piston and replace each piston in the cylinder it came from with the "F" at the front...
18062012305.jpg

if you don't have a piston ring compressor, use a rubber mallet to gently tap the piston down while squeezing the rings with your fingers...
18062012306.jpg

reattach the big ends to the relevant pistons making sure that there is oil on all of the mating surfaces...

Attached Thumbnails

  • 18062012302.jpg


#4
alucard

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now for the fun, putting all back together... get some high temp rtv sealant and go around the upper oil pan. place oil pan on car and do up 2-3 bolts to hold it up...
18062012307.jpg

do the same for the lower oil pan, not forgetting to put the oil pickup back on...
18062012310.jpg

don't worry if a bit squidges out, this is normal...
18062012308.jpg

now put those big bell housing bolts back...
18062012312.jpg

replace the starter motor if you removed it and this bracket if you removed it...
18062012316.jpg

replace the head and any gaskets and bolts
18062012318.jpg

don't forget the two 90 degree turns...
replace your camshafts, and thusly your cambelt... reset the timing as needed...
18062012320.jpg

replace the water exchange block
18062012321.jpg

and the intake manifold
18062012322.jpg

and the throttle body
18062012323.jpg

and the air box and air scoop
18062012324.jpg

don't forget the valve cover
18062012325.jpg

and lastly the exhaust downpipe...
18062012326.jpg


CHECK:
oil level
refill the coolant
any and all electrical connections
sparkplugs and wires
belts are tensioned properly
power steering pipes are connected
fuel lines are correctly installed
don't forget the brake booster vacuum pipe
while you're at it check all the other vacuum pipes
make sure all the coolant lines are attached
check the oil level again
place two hands together, wrack your brains for anything you've forgotten, then say a quick prayer to the gods of the 626...

ladies and gentlemen, start your engines....

give yourself a biscuit, that was one of the most involved things you'll ever do to a car... (unless you restore them for a living)

EDIT: the burn in pictures are a bit useless, so i'll describe it in text.

after approximately 400-600 miles you'll need to do an oil change with filter replacement, this wil get rid of the minute metal particles that the piston rings have worn away after the honing job. be aware that the "burn" in period is named so because you will lose a small amount of oil, i lost approximately 500 ml or half a litre. approximately half a quart. this is normal and after your second oil change at the normal service interval your oil loss should have disappeared...



IMPORTANT NUMBERS:
these specs should all be checked as you go along. write them down and check at the relevant points

piston diameter: 82.954-82.974 mm
piston to cylinder clearance: 0.039-0.052 mm (maximum: 0.15)
ring gap clearance: top, 0.035-0.065 mm
2nd, 0.030-0.065 mm
maximum (on both) 0.085
ring end gap: top 0.15-0.3mm (maximum: 0.5)
2nd 0.15-0.3mm (maximum: 0.5)
oil 0.2-0.7mm (maximum: 0.9)

IMPORTANT TORQUES:
these are the bolts that actually require a torque wrench, not a left handed hammer to do up...

big end bolts: 25 NM
upper oil pan: 25 NM
oil pickup: 10 NM
lower oil pan: 25 NM
cylinder head bolts: 22NM the cylinder head bolts must then be tightened by 90 degrees and then a further 90 degrees
camshaft bolts: 15 NM
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#5
NDM

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Wow Awesome! I love the detail and amount of pictures makes it really easy to follow,

Adding it to the competition submissions now :D

#6
djdevon3

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Excellent tutorial Alucard. Top notch.

take your piston, and clean it, mine have been cleaned of all deposits, but if you wish you could do a polished finish like djdevon3...

It's not polished, just cleaned with degreaser and an aluminum brush. Yeah it did take a while but I feel better knowing I have shiny piston heads. :P

You can find the specs you need for the piston rings here. Pages B1-076 to B1-078
I tried looking in the 5th gen manual but couldn't find a single mention of the engine specs. I think they put that out as a separate booklet. It should be the same specs for the 5th gen but don't quote me on that.

#7
alucard

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it's not quite finished yet, i just need to add some important numbers to it, but thanks... i think i might be right in believing this is the only fs engine ring job guide on the net... :)

#8
Roritor

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But where is the part about the "burn in"?

#9
PrinceValorum

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I take it you were burning oil before? Can't wait to see if this fixed it! It's supposed to be the rings that are responsible for almost all of the FS's burning oil.

#10
Roritor

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Yeah, my engine has started eating a bit if oil now. Grrr...not even 100,000 miles...

About half a litre/quart or so between oil changes. I know it's not much but until now it used to always drain out pretty much exactly how much I'd filled it to last oil change.

#11
GT_FE3

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wow what a guide! I like the red theme in the engine bay. Couple of questions about the loom and hoses; are they expensive and how long do they last? Is it a worthwhile thing on a daily or more for show?

#12
alucard

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the burn in bit will be added when i change the oil, hopefully tommorow... i replaced my rings because i didn't really like the title of worlds fastest smoke generator attached to my car...

@ GT mine is a daily driver, and if i could go back and undo the silicone pipes, i would... there's no performance gain from it and now they've been there for 8 months they are all a bit mucky, and it shows... painting the valve cover wasthe biggest dissapointment, the seal around my oil filler is crap so it seeps into the paint... and the loom is just covered with new conduit, ironically that has stayed realatively clean... i also did the air con pipes in the conduit.. it's a pain in the arse to get on but i does look ok... the one thing i'm glad i did was the hose clamps... mine were all rusty, and now they're all shiney :D

#13
RacerX

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Very nice instructional. This is very relevant and helpful.

Thanks!

#14
djdevon3

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RacerX hope you're soaking up all the info the 626 community has to offer so you'll win the next LeMons for us! Go Team Metroplex!

#15
alucard

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ok pics and things for why the burn in period is needed are a bit useless... i tried to get a pic showing all the metal shavings that come out in the oil but they were too small for my camera to pick up, even when they'd come out of the oil on a magnet... just gonna add some text at the bottom of the last post....





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