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1989 Telstar Hatch Resto/mod/build Thread.


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#196
djdevon3

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Any idea what the square footage used GT_FE3? If I can find an affordable solution even through ebay I might be apt to get enough for a door or two. Just wondering how much it took for the whole car. Imagine MonoxideChild probably double layered?

#197
GT_FE3

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So far about $400. 18 sheets; 820mmx480mm. Did the floor from the firewall to under the backseat, A,B and C pillars. But if your not chasing SPL, just put a little inside the doors, the rest can go towards the boot. I would have done that if I had known. Quiet as can be (unless I have a CD going). Its changed the dynamics of the car completely. Sitting inside it just does not feel like a 24 year old car, there is no rattling trim, next to no road noise its amazing.

#198
MonoxideChild

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the best places to sound deaden are the doors, the roof, and the floor. it really makes a huge difference.

and no, i didnt double it up. lol. but i did do a bit more then just the sound deadening sheets. i also used expanding foam in a can, and filled my frame rails, and my A, B and C pillars. along with all the big openings in the rear trunk area's and around the trunk latch. then any bigger area's that were left behind any of the panels i used poly fill and acoustical foam so there is ZERO dead air anywhere.

#199
PrinceValorum

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So.. much.. unnecessary.. weight....!

#200
GT_FE3

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Wow, I don't think I will go that far! I just have one 350 watt 12" sub and amp. Not out to win a sound off, just enough for decent low tones. Although it thumps well when turned up if I want to be an attention whore lol! Mostly I just wanted to get rid of the rattles and road noise which I have. Its nice and quiet inside now.

#201
Hamiac

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Where did you get your q-mat from? I saw some on trademe a while back but it has gone now. I was originally looking at getting the 'real deal' dynamat, but it is soooo expensive. I am definaly a "you get what you pay for" kind of guy but at that price I dont know if I could justify spending so much for sound deadening. Maybe if I only do a door or two I might try it out.

Edit: Oh wait, found some
http://www.trademe.c...n-490909095.htm

Have you been able to compare dynamat to q-mat? Does q-mat stick well? Did you have to heat it?

Sorry, lots of questions :)

#202
GT_FE3

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All good mate. I reckon its the same stuff as Dynamat pretty much going by the description, the same/similar materials are used to make it. Its just you pay for the Dynamat name. Yeah it sticks really well, with or without heat, I used a heat gun to help mold it at strange angles like around the rear struts. I cleaned the areas first with prepsol that helps it stick better. Once its down your cant really get it off. It takes at least 2 of the 9 sheet packs to do a whole car. I have used 18 sheets in total and still have not done my boot, which needs it badly.

Don't even have to buy it on trade me; Mongoose's number is 443 3128 they are at 41a View rd, Wairau park. I think its always that same $199 as its their outlet shop.

#203
MonoxideChild

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So.. much.. unnecessary.. weight....!

the car is like 20+ DB quieter. i wouldnt say in anyway thats unnecessary. special for a cruizer. but i wouldnt be doing it to a project/toy thats for sure. but any Daily driver would def gain from it.

#204
GT_FE3

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20Db is a massive difference. You could probably hear a pin drop! I'm not going quite that far, but I am getting some more mat for my boot/trunk.

Can't find my camera, so here's to a crappy photo less update. Fixed my brakes, bedding them in. Fixed my fan so it works when its supposed to work and not 24/7. My miss issue is the leads, I am getting some good Champion ones next week. I had a set before and I found them to be very good. Some jackass stole them a few years back when my car was supposedly having an engine rebuild which never happened. Finished the left rear door card. And its raining so I can't do anything on my car today, such joy.

#205
GT_FE3

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Found the camera. Car passed inspection after I told the guy about the engine mounts - it can only be failed if there is no rubber in the mount not if its cracked like mine is. It will need doing some time but for now its okay. The miss issue went away for a while and came back once today. Went to Repco - no leads for my car. Same deal at Supercheap.

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The inspection guy didn't like the smoked lights and failed me on that. I have a good spare boot garnish to go on, the tint is hiding some cracks. The left light is brand new, the right one is used, needs a light restorer kit.
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Have 2 door cars on, although they are not the final product. Passenger one is crap, its broken, that's why the door handle is hanging out. I do have a spare one but im thinking of getting import GV wagon ones which come factory black. But I could recover them in the black vinyl I have (may have found a way to make it work).
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#206
PrinceValorum

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So you aren't allowed to have solid metal motor mounts like a race car would?

#207
GT_FE3

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I could get solid, maybe with certification? Haven't looked into it, am thinking of Nolathane bushes further down the track. This weekend its time to deal with the miss issue. It went away for a bit but now its a pain in the ass. When I need the power its just not there. When I don't need it car runs fine. So my options are; NGK, Champion or Top Gun. I'm leaning toward NGK, cos I know the part numbers, but Champion and Top Gun have their leads in red. I can live with black wires, but it will kind of blend in since my valve cover is black.

NGK:
RC-ZE17 (Leads)
BP5ES-11 (std plugs)
BPR5EIX-11 (Iridium plugs)

Also I'm getting a light restorer kit to shine up the dull junk yard light and to spruce up my spare mint boot garnish, which I also hope to have on my car soon.

#208
GT_FE3

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So I got new spark plugs and wires. The car does and doesn't run any better. It hesitates and sometimes backfires under load. With the old plugs it would hesitate randomly throughout the rev range, as you can see they needed replacement. The plugs are tight, the wires are in the correct order. Still investigating, could be the plugs themselves, going to get standard ones tomorrow. The wires are oem Champion ones, no one had NGK's and I was lucky get even get this set. I have had Champions before and they were great.
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Below this is my spare head. It needs some refurbishment, but overall its is in good shape. I will be getting a set of adjustable cam gears, and grinding up the standard cams slightly (270 degrees or so) and if I have the $$$$ when it comes time for me to do a rebuild. I plan to do this in about 20-30,000 km. Hopefully the block is in relatively good shape, I plan to spend around $5500, hence it will mainly stay standard, but will have a little more mid range/top end for wank factor/cam sound.
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#209
PrinceValorum

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"wank factor"? Is that a Kiwi term?

#210
GT_FE3

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Kind of. Basically something for more looks/sounds than standard. Although it will have some slight go with it, I hope, but I'm not expecting to suddenly have a 25kw gain, since everything else will probably stay standard. Am also considering a stand alone ecu, sick of airflow meters breaking/plugs coming loose (cable tied for now).

Time the engine gets some attention. I'm getting a red vacuum hose dress up kit to help offset all the black and am thinking of adding a grounding kit. I could do with a fuel filter too, the current one is getting on, I've done a few km's with it now. Also I am going to be making a proper cold air intake. So I may well make this stuff into a tutorial and add it in for the next competition.




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