I'm having transmission problems (I know I know, that never happens with the CD4E)
2.0 4cyl atx. - I put a stacked plate cooler in about 2006 after five years of owning it.
When the OD light blinked, I used to shift into neutral, kill the engine, coast for a bit, then start back up. Well it ceased to start up in neutral about four years ago, I've just kind of dealt with it.
I am pretty sure the TC is shot and the thing needs to be rebuilt. Reading a bit I got my hopes up that a MLPS/TRS/Neutral Safety switch might help. I pulled out my (trusty?) Haynes manual and my multimeter and tested it. There's supposed to be continuity between pins 1 and 7, and the resistance is supposed to change depending on the position. I could only get continuity in one very hard to find position, and nothing anywhere else. IIRC pins 2 and 8 should have had connectivity while in Park, presumably to tell the computer to allow the car to be started.
I figured it was shot, which was puzzling since it shouldn't start at all if there's no continuity in Park. I picked up a new one and tested it with my multimeter, and it acted no differently than my old one. Thinking I had picked up a bad new part, I drove out to another Autozone and tested the one they had in stock with the same results.
I put the new TRS in my 626 and it now starts in neutral, and the other symptoms improved. (The TC is still slipping.)
My Haynes manual agrees with this post.
So I'm left to wonder.
1. Do I have the pins confused? It is an 11 pin connector, I orient it so that there are five pins on top, and six on the bottom, and pin 1 is on the left in the top row. Pin 11 is on the bottom right.
2. Is the Haynes manual and the thread on this site wrong?
3. Did I test 3 bad TR Sensors, and the one I put in just happens to work well enough to start in Park and Neutral?
4. If the problem is 1 or 2, what is the correct data?
Anyway, thank you!
Need Expert Advice - Transmission Range Sensor
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