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V6 Timing Belt Tensioner


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#1
domestikdemon

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Ok so i'm sure you all know more than me about this thing... (yea i kno its hydraulic)

1.) Are you supposed to be able to push the rod in or is it supposed to be extremely stiff? (put it in a vise and that was able to push it in)

2.) How important is is to replace the tensioner? (don't feel like dropping over 300 for it but if need be...)

3.) Pics of brand new tensioners show a retainer pin holding the rod in....you have to remove that pin when you install the tensioner?


Thanks in advance for answers to this guys...


PS
what type of oil goes in the manual trans?

#2
hixx

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Ok so i'm sure you all know more than me about this thing... (yea i kno its hydraulic)

1.) Are you supposed to be able to push the rod in or is it supposed to be extremely stiff? (put it in a vise and that was able to push it in)

2.) How important is is to replace the tensioner? (don't feel like dropping over 300 for it but if need be...)

3.) Pics of brand new tensioners show a retainer pin holding the rod in....you have to remove that pin when you install the tensioner?


Thanks in advance for answers to this guys...


PS
what type of oil goes in the manual trans?


It should be very hard to push in. Put it in a vice and compress it in very small increments. Put a nut on the back side where the plug is so as not to damage it. Once it is in install a pin to hold it.
Manual transmissions come with atf in them but in hotter climates atf is too thin and overheats the bearings. You can use atf but i have had better luck using 5-20 motoroil.

#3
snailman153624

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Not ATF, 75w-90 GL-4 or GL-5 gear oil is what the service manual specifies.

#4
domestikdemon

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Well thanks guys that three questions answered...one left


How important is it to replace the tensioner? What will happen if I don't?

#5
MonoxideChild

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the tensioner's failing is one of the biggest problem these cars have really. replacing it is a VERY GOOD idea if its original. otherwise, its a ticking time bomb until it does fail.

#6
snailman153624

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the tensioner's failing is one of the biggest problem these cars have really. replacing it is a VERY GOOD idea if its original. otherwise, its a ticking time bomb until it does fail.


Time bomb is a bit dramatic, as a failed tensioner often doesn't even result in a slipped belt, just a noisy valve train.

The FSM recommends merely testing it, and if it's good, clean & reuse it.

#7
MonoxideChild

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i based that off of doing two timing belt jobs this winter ALONE! lol. that pretty drastic IMO. and someone almost on a weekly basis on PT is posting about this failure. and considering how much of a pain the KL timing belt is compared to most other cars on the road, do it once, and do it right.

its gone as far as that on PT, they have re-designed and modified the stock tensioner to be fail proof, and have a HOW TO: to do it because its been such a problem. hell, mx6.com is even doing a BULK BUY on the modified fail proof version cause it happens so much.

find another car that the failure rate of a tensioner has caused so much greif, people have re-designed the tensioner on there own out of aggrevation.


if anything, search on PT, and find the HOW TO: on the modification. it makes it fail proof permanetly. and you can use your current tensioner to do it. very cheap mod to do. i did it to PILE_OF_RD1's kl swapped mx3 a few months back and has worked great.

#8
snailman153624

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I've owned 5 KL-powered cars, with a grand total of 7 engines, over the last 7 years, and have never experienced this failure. I've also NEVER replaced the tensioner on any of them, only the idler pulleys & belts themselves.

I've also done the timing belt 5 or 6 times [twice with the engine out, at least 3x with the engine in], and in all honesty, at least on an MX6/626, doing the timing belt isn't a big deal at all. You just unbolt a few pulleys, and take off the timing covers, and you can get at everything.

#9
drboeing

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Well thanks guys that three questions answered...one left


How important is it to replace the tensioner? What will happen if I don't?


When the tensioner starts to go, you will hear a tapping sound that as it gets worse, becomes a knocking sound. I have gone through 3 belts on my 626 and on the 3rd one I changed the tensioner.
Check on E-Bay as I have seen the Hyd tensioners there for not too bad a price. When I did the last belt change, I bought a full kit off of E-Bay(belt, pulleys, tensioner, water pump, all for about $250) and have not had any trouble and that has been a year now.

#10
domestikdemon

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ok i was kinda thinkin it was one of those things that should be replaced but doesnt really have to... someone else on here recommended it though

would it be ok to just weld it all the way extended or will it be too much of a PITA to install that way?

whats PT? some forum i'm guessing but i dont know what or id look at that how-to right now

thanks to all for answering my questions...im well acquainted working on cars i just have specific 626 questions...its actually my second 626...so the engine is a KLZE? I saw the ##KL##### designation n kinda figured so...i removed the engine from the car to perform the work...it needed head gaskets anyway...while tearing the motor down i discovered the incorrectly installed timing belt...it wouldnt have lasted long at all riding off the edge of the pulleys the way it was...again, thanks everyone

#11
Anton19

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This might be a little silly to ask, however is there anywhere I can find the instruction on how to do the timing belt? I know the tensioner is not going yet, however the belts are are squealing like pigs when the car is running in the mornings. I know it's past due because the belt is replaced @ 60K and now it's running over to nearly 70K, so yeah don't want the damn thing to fail on my gf while she's driving.

#12
snailman153624

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This might be a little silly to ask, however is there anywhere I can find the instruction on how to do the timing belt? I know the tensioner is not going yet, however the belts are are squealing like pigs when the car is running in the mornings. I know it's past due because the belt is replaced @ 60K and now it's running over to nearly 70K, so yeah don't want the damn thing to fail on my gf while she's driving.


The maintenance interval specifies inspection at 60k, and replacement at 105k (miles).

As for the tensioner, don't weld it, it's there to take up slack in the belt as it stretches over time.

#13
XeNoMoRpH

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I recently changed my timing belt and a few of the idler pullies as well. As long as the tensioner isn't leaking (meaning still properly sealed) it's just fine. I reused mine and the car has 105k miles on it. I'll scan some pages of the FSM and upload it.

#14
XeNoMoRpH

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http://www.mazdascen...Timing_Belt.pdf

I'm sure it is the same procedure for any of the KLs, or at least pretty close.




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