Jump to content

Photo

Car Won't Start


  • Please log in to reply
32 replies to this topic

#1
n5yntx

n5yntx

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 6 posts
  • Car: 1999, 626, 4 Cyl, Auto
My daughter was driving her 626 4 Cyl. when it just died. The first thing I checked was if the fuel pump activated when the ignition was on, and it did not. I jumped the fuel pump and it still wouldn't start. I later figured out that the fuel pump would activate when I did try to start it, because I could here it as I turned the key off for a couple of seconds. I then bought a new fuel pump and installed it and the car still wouldn't start. I then check the spark plugs with a tester, and they all had a spark. The timing belt is also intact. I disconnected the fuel line at the fuel filter, and activated the fuel pump and the fuel shot out with a lot of force, so the pump was working well. The car does not have an immobilizer system in it. For some reason, the fuel pump is not activating when I turn on the key. I know it should come on for a couple of seconds, and then it is supposed to activate once the engine is turned on after it gets signals from the sensors.
I figured that the problem may have been the crankshaft position sensor, Camshaft position sensor, or the pressure regulator. I think there is also supposed to be a pressure regulator solenoid which I am not sure of its location. I then bought a scanner, and to my surprise, it came up with no code. This has totally confused me because I am sure if one of the sensors was bad, it would come up with a code error. Is it possible for a sensor to be bad and not show up on the scanner?
I am stumped as to what is wrong. I am thinking it is the pressure regulator. I am not sure on how to test it. I did remove it and apply vacuum, and try to blow air through it without any success, but I am sure I need a lot more force to get air through it. I did try to disconnect the fuel line on the return line from the regulator and turn over the car, and some gas did come out.
I am not sure how to check the fuel pressure? Do I just hook up a gage from the fuel filter, and can this be done with just the fuel pump activated, and if so what is the pressure reading?
I feel like ordering the ckp, cmp, and the pressure regulator, but I don't want to throw away money. The fuel pump was probably a waste of money already.
I am just stumped on what the problem could be. Any help would be much appreciated.

#2
Jbasto

Jbasto

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 196 posts
  • Location: Eastern ,PA
  • Car: 94 626 4cyl MTX
Well most probably is that your ignition died that happens to these cars.

Did u try to see if u have a spark?

#3
audiqv8

audiqv8

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 232 posts
  • Location: Chicago, IL
  • Car: 1999 626es 2.5L V6 auto, 1990 Miata 1.6L Manual
The fuel pump will run for s short period while cranking and then turn off, but will not continue to run unless the engine is running. This is a safety feature in case the car is involve in a frontal crash and the engine is not running. The ecu will provide the signal to the fuel pump relay once the engine is running.

If you have fuel and spark, I would check to see if you might have flooded the engine by all this cranking. Remove the spark plugs and see if they are wet. If you haven't changed your plugs for awhile you might just want to replace them.

#4
n5yntx

n5yntx

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 6 posts
  • Car: 1999, 626, 4 Cyl, Auto

My daughter was driving her 626 4 Cyl. when it just died. The first thing I checked was if the fuel pump activated when the ignition was on, and it did not. I jumped the fuel pump and it still wouldn't start. I later figured out that the fuel pump would activate when I did try to start it, because I could here it as I turned the key off for a couple of seconds. I then bought a new fuel pump and installed it and the car still wouldn't start. I then check the spark plugs with a tester, and they all had a spark. The timing belt is also intact. I disconnected the fuel line at the fuel filter, and activated the fuel pump and the fuel shot out with a lot of force, so the pump was working well. The car does not have an immobilizer system in it. For some reason, the fuel pump is not activating when I turn on the key. I know it should come on for a couple of seconds, and then it is supposed to activate once the engine is turned on after it gets signals from the sensors.
I figured that the problem may have been the crankshaft position sensor, Camshaft position sensor, or the pressure regulator. I think there is also supposed to be a pressure regulator solenoid which I am not sure of its location. I then bought a scanner, and to my surprise, it came up with no code. This has totally confused me because I am sure if one of the sensors was bad, it would come up with a code error. Is it possible for a sensor to be bad and not show up on the scanner?
I am stumped as to what is wrong. I am thinking it is the pressure regulator. I am not sure on how to test it. I did remove it and apply vacuum, and try to blow air through it without any success, but I am sure I need a lot more force to get air through it. I did try to disconnect the fuel line on the return line from the regulator and turn over the car, and some gas did come out.
I am not sure how to check the fuel pressure? Do I just hook up a gage from the fuel filter, and can this be done with just the fuel pump activated, and if so what is the pressure reading?
I feel like ordering the ckp, cmp, and the pressure regulator, but I don't want to throw away money. The fuel pump was probably a waste of money already.
I am just stumped on what the problem could be. Any help would be much appreciated.



#5
n5yntx

n5yntx

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 6 posts
  • Car: 1999, 626, 4 Cyl, Auto

Well most probably is that your ignition died that happens to these cars.

Did u try to see if u have a spark?


Yes, I put a tester in between the plug and cable and cranked the car over and I had a spark for each cylinder

#6
n5yntx

n5yntx

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 6 posts
  • Car: 1999, 626, 4 Cyl, Auto
[quote name='audiqv8' date='Feb 23 2008, 01:01 PM' post='263860']
The fuel pump will run for s short period while cranking and then turn off, but will not continue to run unless the engine is running. This is a safety feature in case the car is involve in a frontal crash and the engine is not running. The ecu will provide the signal to the fuel pump relay once the engine is running.

If you have fuel and spark, I would check to see if you might have flooded the engine by all this cranking. Remove the spark plugs and see if they are wet. If you haven't changed your plugs for awhile you might just want to replace them

I did check out the recently installed spark plugs and they were no wet. I know I have fuel to the fuel filter, but am not sure it is getting to the fuel injectors. I am not sure how to check out the pressure regulator which is what I suspect is the problem. I get no error codes.

#7
MazRedMan

MazRedMan

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 670 posts
  • Location: Albuquerque,NM
  • Car: 98' 626LX 2.0L (4cyl) ATX 'Lazer Red' color
Did you first check these or take them out and re-set them??:
a) fuse
b) relay
c) gas cap properly closed, tightened (seated)

Posted Image

#8
cheri626

cheri626

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 1 posts
  • Car: 1997 626 2.0 auto

Did you first check these or take them out and re-set them??:
a) fuse
b) relay
c) gas cap properly closed, tightened (seated)

Posted Image


The fuses and relays are in total different order then in the pic. i have a 1997 mazda 626 lx, what year is the one in the pic.
Also where would the fuel pump be located on this model.

#9
MazRedMan

MazRedMan

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 670 posts
  • Location: Albuquerque,NM
  • Car: 98' 626LX 2.0L (4cyl) ATX 'Lazer Red' color
Cheri626,
The pic is of my 98'LX (4cyl). Check your fuse box lid and see if gives you your fuse location. I believe the pump and level sending unit are both found in the tank. I suggest getting a Haynes manual to help troubleshoot your system before you spend any extra $$$ before you find/fix the 'real' problem. Good luck!!

#10
n5yntx

n5yntx

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 6 posts
  • Car: 1999, 626, 4 Cyl, Auto

Did you first check these or take them out and re-set them??:
a) fuse
b) relay
c) gas cap properly closed, tightened (seated)

Posted Image


The fuses and relays are in total different order then in the pic. i have a 1997 mazda 626 lx, what year is the one in the pic.
Also where would the fuel pump be located on this model.


It is the first thing I checked, and there were no problems with the fuse, relay, and the gas cap was secured.

I need to figure out how to test the fuel pressure regulator. I did remove it and put suction on it and tried to blow air through it, but nothing would go through. I am pretty sure it is the problem, but want to know how to properly test it. There are no error codes when I put on the scanner, which really baffled me.

#11
MazRedMan

MazRedMan

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 670 posts
  • Location: Albuquerque,NM
  • Car: 98' 626LX 2.0L (4cyl) ATX 'Lazer Red' color
I checked with one local dealership to see if the 98' cars have a regulator control solenoid and it seems that they do not (?). My car is not here right now so I can't look to see if I have one inline from the vaccum hose of the fuel pressure regulator(??).

I would suggest that you first purchase a work manual (Haynes? $18.00) that will show you how to test the fuel pressure regulator....it seems to be involved and you will have to purchase a testing kit (if you don't have one already). Also, there's the safety issues involved with testing.

The fuel pressure regulator is costly $$$ and if you spend more for a testing kit .......well you may have to weight the cost and maybe take your car to a reliable mechanic to troubleshoot and fix ???

Considering the above cost (and options) and what you tried and spent already, I would try replacing the fuel filter (less costly $$) before taking it to the mechanic. At least, if it doesn't fix the problem then that is one less part that he will charge you for the repair......??? Good luck!!

BTW- Do you have a regulator control solenoid on your car?

#12
n5yntx

n5yntx

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 6 posts
  • Car: 1999, 626, 4 Cyl, Auto

I checked with one local dealership to see if the 98' cars have a regulator control solenoid and it seems that they do not (?). My car is not here right now so I can't look to see if I have one inline from the vaccum hose of the fuel pressure regulator(??).

I would suggest that you first purchase a work manual (Haynes? $18.00) that will show you how to test the fuel pressure regulator....it seems to be involved and you will have to purchase a testing kit (if you don't have one already). Also, there's the safety issues involved with testing.

The fuel pressure regulator is costly $$$ and if you spend more for a testing kit .......well you may have to weight the cost and maybe take your car to a reliable mechanic to troubleshoot and fix ???

Considering the above cost (and options) and what you tried and spent already, I would try replacing the fuel filter (less costly $$) before taking it to the mechanic. At least, if it doesn't fix the problem then that is one less part that he will charge you for the repair......??? Good luck!!

BTW- Do you have a regulator control solenoid on your car?


No, my car does not have a regulator control solenoid. The fuel filter is brand new. Another man on a different site asked me if I checked the ignition coil even though I had sparks at the spark plugs, and I told him that I hadn't.

I then looked at my Haynes Repair Manual which I don't really like, and prefer the Chilton, but can't find one for my model year. It does not show how to test the pressure regulator. The manual gives the resistence for the primary and secondary resistence for the ignition coil. The secondary was in spec, but the primary did not have any resistence at all, so it may be a problem.

I was getting kind of upset trying to work on the car this morning and finally sprayed a little starting fluid in the air intake and the car did not even try to start. I have never had a problem with getting an engine started if there is a spark using starting fluid, so it kind of affirms that there is a problem with the ignition. I ordered an ignition coil and wires from Rock Auto. It is money well spent since I have not changed either, and it is what is included in a tune up anyway. I don't have any experience working on the fuel and ignition systems on cars.

I have spent a lot of hours trying to figure out this problem. I always assumed that a code reader would send a code for any problem, but I was obviously wrong. It is like trying to find a needle in a haystack.

#13
mjrami

mjrami

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 1 posts
  • Car: 1997 mazda 626 2.0

I checked with one local dealership to see if the 98' cars have a regulator control solenoid and it seems that they do not (?). My car is not here right now so I can't look to see if I have one inline from the vaccum hose of the fuel pressure regulator(??).

I would suggest that you first purchase a work manual (Haynes? $18.00) that will show you how to test the fuel pressure regulator....it seems to be involved and you will have to purchase a testing kit (if you don't have one already). Also, there's the safety issues involved with testing.

The fuel pressure regulator is costly $$$ and if you spend more for a testing kit .......well you may have to weight the cost and maybe take your car to a reliable mechanic to troubleshoot and fix ???

Considering the above cost (and options) and what you tried and spent already, I would try replacing the fuel filter (less costly $$) before taking it to the mechanic. At least, if it doesn't fix the problem then that is one less part that he will charge you for the repair......??? Good luck!!

BTW- Do you have a regulator control solenoid on your car?


No, my car does not have a regulator control solenoid. The fuel filter is brand new. Another man on a different site asked me if I checked the ignition coil even though I had sparks at the spark plugs, and I told him that I hadn't.

I then looked at my Haynes Repair Manual which I don't really like, and prefer the Chilton, but can't find one for my model year. It does not show how to test the pressure regulator. The manual gives the resistence for the primary and secondary resistence for the ignition coil. The secondary was in spec, but the primary did not have any resistence at all, so it may be a problem.

I was getting kind of upset trying to work on the car this morning and finally sprayed a little starting fluid in the air intake and the car did not even try to start. I have never had a problem with getting an engine started if there is a spark using starting fluid, so it kind of affirms that there is a problem with the ignition. I ordered an ignition coil and wires from Rock Auto. It is money well spent since I have not changed either, and it is what is included in a tune up anyway. I don't have any experience working on the fuel and ignition systems on cars.

I have spent a lot of hours trying to figure out this problem. I always assumed that a code reader would send a code for any problem, but I was obviously wrong. It is like trying to find a needle in a haystack.



#14
coredump

coredump

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 1 posts
  • Car: 1998,Mazda 626, auto V6
My 98 mazda having same issue as your, I had my car towed to local shop and they could not figure it out. I had the car towed again to local mazda dealership and they have the car for almost a week. They are not sure, what to change, since their is no engine light or any code to read.They call me today and they think it's fuel pump, and they are about 90% sure that is the problem.... need to replace the fuel pump.. total cost for this $1050.00 part and labor.... Did you replaced your ignition coil and did that resolved your problem.....any help would be great

I checked with one local dealership to see if the 98' cars have a regulator control solenoid and it seems that they do not (?). My car is not here right now so I can't look to see if I have one inline from the vaccum hose of the fuel pressure regulator(??).

I would suggest that you first purchase a work manual (Haynes? $18.00) that will show you how to test the fuel pressure regulator....it seems to be involved and you will have to purchase a testing kit (if you don't have one already). Also, there's the safety issues involved with testing.

The fuel pressure regulator is costly $$$ and if you spend more for a testing kit .......well you may have to weight the cost and maybe take your car to a reliable mechanic to troubleshoot and fix ???

Considering the above cost (and options) and what you tried and spent already, I would try replacing the fuel filter (less costly $$) before taking it to the mechanic. At least, if it doesn't fix the problem then that is one less part that he will charge you for the repair......??? Good luck!!

BTW- Do you have a regulator control solenoid on your car?


No, my car does not have a regulator control solenoid. The fuel filter is brand new. Another man on a different site asked me if I checked the ignition coil even though I had sparks at the spark plugs, and I told him that I hadn't.

I then looked at my Haynes Repair Manual which I don't really like, and prefer the Chilton, but can't find one for my model year. It does not show how to test the pressure regulator. The manual gives the resistence for the primary and secondary resistence for the ignition coil. The secondary was in spec, but the primary did not have any resistence at all, so it may be a problem.

I was getting kind of upset trying to work on the car this morning and finally sprayed a little starting fluid in the air intake and the car did not even try to start. I have never had a problem with getting an engine started if there is a spark using starting fluid, so it kind of affirms that there is a problem with the ignition. I ordered an ignition coil and wires from Rock Auto. It is money well spent since I have not changed either, and it is what is included in a tune up anyway. I don't have any experience working on the fuel and ignition systems on cars.

I have spent a lot of hours trying to figure out this problem. I always assumed that a code reader would send a code for any problem, but I was obviously wrong. It is like trying to find a needle in a haystack.



#15
tjvjr

tjvjr

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,162 posts
  • Location: Elizabethton , TN
  • Car: 96 MX6 V6 5 speed
download this - workshop manual - it has all the info you need to test your fpr and coil/distributor. have you changed the fuel filter? are you getting gas past the fuel filter?




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users