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Door Won't Open


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#1
herbajones

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2001 626 passenger door won't open. The lock/unlock switches seem to work, but when I pull the handle nothing happens. Also is there a way to remove the door panel or get access to the mechinisms with the door closed?

#2
herbajones

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2001 626 passenger door won't open. The lock/unlock switches seem to work, but when I pull the handle nothing happens. Also is there a way to remove the door panel or get access to the mechinisms with the door closed?



#3
herbajones

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2001 626 passenger door won't open. The lock/unlock switches seem to work, but when I pull the handle nothing happens. Also is there a way to remove the door panel or get access to the mechinisms with the door closed?



#4
slow_motion626

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have you tried it from the inside? pull the panel off and see if you get the lock to disengage. it might just be stuck. put a little pressure on it.

#5
dandpmorales

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Just went through this yesterday on my rear drivers side. I pulled the handle off (one hidden screw in the handle "cup"), then removed one screw off the handle assembly and pulled real hard on the linkage to free up the lock. Ended up having to replace the lock assembly. Good luck with yours.

#6
herbajones

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Just went through this yesterday on my rear drivers side. I pulled the handle off (one hidden screw in the handle "cup"), then removed one screw off the handle assembly and pulled real hard on the linkage to free up the lock. Ended up having to replace the lock assembly. Good luck with yours.


I found the problem.. Once I got the door panel off, with the door closed, which was not that hard I could see the most of the door latch, but not enough to actually get my hand on it. I cut away about a 6" square piece of the thin metal from the inner door frame. Then I could see a small brass tab that was in a 1/2" slot, so I took a slot screwdriver and pushed the brass tab upward and shazzam the door opened.
Only then is when I saw the culprit. The 3 large phillips screws that hold the door latch in place on the door had loosened to a point where the latch would move when the door handles tried to actuate the latch and wouldnt release it from the u bolt on the door jam. Once I tightened the 3 screws everything was fine. So frrom now on I will make sure the screws are tight on all 4 doors at all times. If anyone else has this problem, Check the screws holding the door latch in place.

#7
Pat Hannon

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Just went through this yesterday on my rear drivers side. I pulled the handle off (one hidden screw in the handle "cup"), then removed one screw off the handle assembly and pulled real hard on the linkage to free up the lock. Ended up having to replace the lock assembly. Good luck with yours.


I found the problem.. Once I got the door panel off, with the door closed, which was not that hard I could see the most of the door latch, but not enough to actually get my hand on it. I cut away about a 6" square piece of the thin metal from the inner door frame. Then I could see a small brass tab that was in a 1/2" slot, so I took a slot screwdriver and pushed the brass tab upward and shazzam the door opened.
Only then is when I saw the culprit. The 3 large phillips screws that hold the door latch in place on the door had loosened to a point where the latch would move when the door handles tried to actuate the latch and wouldnt release it from the u bolt on the door jam. Once I tightened the 3 screws everything was fine. So frrom now on I will make sure the screws are tight on all 4 doors at all times. If anyone else has this problem, Check the screws holding the door latch in place.


Would you mind providing a quick how-to on the door panel removal? I am attempting to replace mine on my 2002 model.

#8
BATMAN0666

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Just went through this yesterday on my rear drivers side. I pulled the handle off (one hidden screw in the handle "cup"), then removed one screw off the handle assembly and pulled real hard on the linkage to free up the lock. Ended up having to replace the lock assembly. Good luck with yours.



My rear is also stuck and will not open. I took off the little screw hole pulled on the lock with allot of force and still no luck. Can the door panel be removed without breaking the panel ? Thank you

#9
Mazda Madness

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Just went through this yesterday on my rear drivers side. I pulled the handle off (one hidden screw in the handle "cup"), then removed one screw off the handle assembly and pulled real hard on the linkage to free up the lock. Ended up having to replace the lock assembly. Good luck with yours.



My rear is also stuck and will not open. I took off the little screw hole pulled on the lock with allot of force and still no luck. Can the door panel be removed without breaking the panel ? Thank you

If you have a Haynes repair manual (available @ Autozone, or Advance Auto) it tells you how to remove the door panels without too much effort. I had to do the same thing with mine when I put new custom speakers in the doors and had to replace the actuator rod inside of my driver-side door because one day it decided not to open either.

#10
mmreinha

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I had the same thing happen to me last Fall. The passenger door would not open and I thought it was the lock mech, but turned out to be those 3 screws. I couldn't get the door panel off and ended up cutting a hole( I should have researched it more, but was on a road trip). I was so pissed when I cut the hole and couldn't fix it that I held the handle and kick the door really hard. The damn thing popped right open and I saw those screws loose. So now I have a crappy patch job on my door panel. Oh well. Live and Learn.

#11
M Turn

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I have a 2001 Mazda 626 and my passenger door won't open. Here is how to fix it!
My passenger door would not open from inside or outside. I removed door latch assembly and sought to 'extend' its pull by opening it with it out of door to no avail. The problem was the 3 screws which hold the latch assembly were very loose. But you can't get to them soooo....
* Take a flat pry bar from the inside of the door and slide it in just above (about 3 inches above) where the latch assembly is between the door and the rubber weather stripping (look at the open door to see how to avoid damaging anything).
* After you get the flat pry bar in push the whole door forward (about 1 mm) with a considerable about of force and pull on the door handle -- that should allow the latch to open.
* Then tighten your 3 latch screws and all should be well!
Hope this helps -- thanks to some guy on the internet who posted this. NO NEED TO CUT YOUR DOOR OPEN! YEAH!

#12
Timbuk3

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I just worked through the same problem with my wife's 2000 626.

SX: 2000 Mazda 626 Passenger Door won't open. Specifically the door will not unlock. Door handles pull but lock will not unluck by inside trigger, outside key or fob. After I repaired it, my wife told me btw the fob or electrically activated lock had sometimes buzzed in that door.

DX: Stuck lock assembly in the door latching assembly. This is the mechanical contraption inside the door that grabs onto the post that is attached to the door frame. Specifically, the mechanics were seized, very stiff, and I believe the solenoid is fried.

The asby grease was fairly sticky and there was a bit of dirt and debris in there on the mechanism. I also noticed a small bit of corrosion but the car is 11 years old so that was not unexpected. I see some other posts here about the 3 phillips head machine screws that hold this assembly to the innards of the door but my screws were tight.

RX: Free sticky mechanism, replace door lock solenoid

Of couse, that is not the hard part. The hard part is getting the door open first so you can remove the inside panel and repair or replace the parts.

Tools: #2, #1 phillips screw drivers, tiny flat head or pick to remove screw covers, door panel fastener removal tool if you have one.

I was able to get the door open by removing the door handle cover/cup/bezel and manhandling the lock rod from the inner door handle hole.I was not able to get the door open using a flat bar as described elsewhere. I think this is because my problem was related to the lock and not a loose door latching mechanism.

(To open door, remove inside handle cup/bezel. yank lock activator rod as follows)
1) To remove handle cup, open screw cover with sm flat head or pick, fight the door handle cup to remove, holding open the door handle. This part was pretty rugged and does not seem too easy to break.
2) with cup removed, remove 2nd #2 phillips that mounts the handle asby to the door. Then fight this out through the handle hole in the door panel.
At this point, yank the lock rod to and fro until the door unlocks. This part can be bent so don't go crazy on it.

To remove the door panel, once you get it open:

1) Remove black triangle molding piece inside opposite your passsenger side mirror. If the mirrors were manual, this is where the knob would stick into the passenger cabin. There are two push type fasteners hodling it in place and the panel tool or a screwdriver will pop this off. The piece seems somewhat fragile.

2) Remove door handle cup (if not removed already per previous section)

3) Remove door panel: The door panel is fastened around the side and botton edges and hangs on the door sheet metal along the top edge where the panel meets the window. three plastic push fastner screws, a couple of blind push fasteners, a covered #2 Ph on the bottom edge, and another #2 ph hidden beneath the felt in the door pull cup. With these screws removed, pop any remaining hidden panel fasteners with a screwdriver or your panel fastener tool, pull the panel away from the door a few inches, then lift up. Before lifting off completely, disconnect courtesy light and electric window connector.

4) Remove lock/latch asby: I found it easiest to remove this asby with all the rods attached to the asby. In addition to the cable connecting the electic lock solenoid, four rods connect the assembly to the outer handle and lock and to the inner handle and lock. If you look carefully, you'll notice a plastic bit, that holds each rod in three of the holes at the handles, swings away and then you can pull the rod out of the hole. The third rod connects to the outside handle and there is a bigger clip but this can be popped open to remove the large rod.

5) as mentioned, 3 large #2 or #3 phillips machine screws holds this assembly to the inside of the door, but they are accessed from the rear outer edge of the door frame/sheetmetal.

I took this assembly out, worked it until it was freed up, including a couple squirts of liquid wrench, then reassembled the whole thing in reverse.

The solenoid still buzzes for a moment when activated, and that will have to be replaced at a later time, but at least we can open/shut/lock and unlock the door.

#13
Wyld1

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I have a 2001 Mazda 626 and my passenger door won't open. Here is how to fix it!
My passenger door would not open from inside or outside. I removed door latch assembly and sought to 'extend' its pull by opening it with it out of door to no avail. The problem was the 3 screws which hold the latch assembly were very loose. But you can't get to them soooo....
* Take a flat pry bar from the inside of the door and slide it in just above (about 3 inches above) where the latch assembly is between the door and the rubber weather stripping (look at the open door to see how to avoid damaging anything).
* After you get the flat pry bar in push the whole door forward (about 1 mm) with a considerable about of force and pull on the door handle -- that should allow the latch to open.
* Then tighten your 3 latch screws and all should be well!
Hope this helps -- thanks to some guy on the internet who posted this. NO NEED TO CUT YOUR DOOR OPEN! YEAH!

 

This is the fix. Just had the exact thing happen and this worked like a charm. I used Lock Tight Blue on the new screws. This is crazy! Thank you Internet and Mazada Forums!






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