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Front Sway Bar Bushings


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#1
2001626

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Hello

Has anyone ever attempted to replace the front sway bar bushings on a 2001 626, 6 cylinder, without dropping the engine cradle? Or is there a preferred lube to spray in the bushings to get them to stop squeaking. Thanks for the help.

#2
NickR

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Try silicon lubricant? I think it's OK for rubber, and you can get it in an aerosol can which makes it easy to apply, and it's thin enough to seep into where it's needed?

#3
blackshine007

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Hello

Has anyone ever attempted to replace the front sway bar bushings on a 2001 626, 6 cylinder, without dropping the engine cradle? Or is there a preferred lube to spray in the bushings to get them to stop squeaking. Thanks for the help.

I think you can do it by lowering the subframe and leaving the engine mount connected. It's just a total of 4 bolts that keeps it connected, and 2 nuts for the end links. Have a jack handy when doing it. It's gonna be fun.

#4
sethmorgan

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I am getting ready to replace the front sway bar bushings on mine. After seeing where these are located and how tight the fit is, it looks like it's going to be difficult. The Haynes manual describes lowering the tranny cradle, but the procedure referenced is for removal of the sway bar itself. Hopefully that's not required just to swap out the bushings. I'll post back with my experience. I hate it when I read through a post that has relevant info for my car, only to have the topic end with no resolution.

#5
2001626

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Let us know how you make out. I agree it looks tight and for that reason I did not attempt it yet, but may do so when the weather gets warmer

#6
snailman153624

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I managed to replace mine without lowering the K-frame. It's a tight squeeze, but it can be done.

You don't have to completely remove both of the bracket bolts, the openings are slotted on the end so it will slide out if you just get it loose enough.

#7
sethmorgan

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I managed to replace mine without lowering the K-frame. It's a tight squeeze, but it can be done.

You don't have to completely remove both of the bracket bolts, the openings are slotted on the end so it will slide out if you just get it loose enough.

You went in through the wheel wells, not from underneath?

#8
snailman153624

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I went in from underneath, and you can actually get to one of them more easily from the top (if you remove the air box/intake)...assuming you don't have ABS.

#9
2001626

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I went in from underneath, and you can actually get to one of them more easily from the top (if you remove the air box/intake)...assuming you don't have ABS.


Hey Snailman. I have ABS. Does that mean I can't get to bolt after I remove airbox? Also, did you have to use special tools to reach the bolts? Thanks

#10
snailman153624

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I went in from underneath, and you can actually get to one of them more easily from the top (if you remove the air box/intake)...assuming you don't have ABS.


Hey Snailman. I have ABS. Does that mean I can't get to bolt after I remove airbox? Also, did you have to use special tools to reach the bolts? Thanks


I'm not saying it can't be done if you have ABS, I just imagine it would be even more of a squeeze because the ABS module sits kind of in the way.

From the top I think you can even get a ratchet on one end of it (1/4" drive with an extension). You have to use a box wrench on all of the other bolts.


It may be easier to lower the K-frame a bit, because you only get like 1/16th of a turn at a time with just the box wrench. I was just commenting that it can be done, that's all. I replaced one of mine on my MX-6 with nothing but a jack and a [edit] 14mm [/edit] box wrench when I was poor and in college, and the 626 has a little more room in the engine bay.

#11
2001626

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Thanks Snailman. I will give it a shot. Appreciate the advice. I know about being poor and in college. Thats how I started maintaining my own car.

#12
sethmorgan

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I completed this job today with success. My year/model is in my sig, so these procedures may not apply to you:

1. Make sure you have a 12-point wrench for the bushing bracket bolts. The bushing bracket bolts were 14mm. With a 6-point wrench, you can't position it where you need it on the bolt head.
2. I jacked the front of the car, took both wheels off and removed the lower sway bar endlink nuts. I knew that they might be seized so I sprayed some WD-40 on and let soak.
3. For the upper bushing bracket bolt, I went in through the wheel wells. For the lower ones, from underneath. I didn't have to remove the crossmember or lower the ATX cradle. Loosening the bolts is the hardest part. On the passenger side, the exhaust is mounted right where the wrench needs to be, but it's doable.

Reinstallation:
4. I used some Phil Wood ball-bearing grease to assist in sliding the new bushings up the sway bar and also for slipping the bracket over the bushings. The trick is like Snailman said, leave the lower bolt in place, or if you've taken it completely off, thread in the lower bolt first, then use the slot in the bracket to hook the bracket into the lower bolt, then thread in the upper bolt. Have fun making 1/16 turn of the wrench before having to reposition the wrench for another 1/16 turn. Repeat several hundred times for about an hour.
5. Reinstall endlink and nut.

I definitely notice a difference in the feeling of solidness of the car, especially when coming up the driveway, over the hump in the curb. Potholes no longer cause a clunking sound in the front. This may not be worth the trouble to some, but I'm glad I did it. It took me about 3 hours total. I would have taken pictures, but the fit is so tight I did most of the work by feel anyway. :P

#13
2001626

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Thanks for the instructions. I will give it a try once the weaterh gets a little warmer. Glad to hear everything worked out for you.




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