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Symptom - Cv Joints Clicking In Turns


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#1
auto_swman

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  • Car: 1997, Mazda 626, 4cyl, manual
Symptom - CV joints clicking in turns
Problem - CV joints wearing out
Resolution - replace drivehaft

I recently attempted to replace the right front drive shaft on my 97 Mazda 626. I haven't done this for several years. I took off the wheel, brake caliper, brake rotor, tie rod and removed the bolt holding the lower ball joint.

I used a crow bar to separate the ball joint on the lower control arm from the wheel hub assembly. The lower ball joint was loose but there was some compressing force pushing the lower control arm ball joint up into the wheel hub assembly. I think it was caused by a little rod connecting the lower control arm to the anti-sway bar. I tried to disconnect this rod from the lower control arm but the threads on the bolt were rusted and the bolt itself pivots like a ball joint. So you need to hold the bolt still using an allen wrench and use a box-end wrench to remove the nut. It's very difficult to get at when you are on a floor in a condominium garage.

Can someone tell me if I am correct about disconnecting the anti-sway bar from the lower control arm to remove the compression on the ball joint? If so, how do I disconnect it without cutting it off with a torch? If I am wrong about this, what do I need to do to remove this compression?

Does anyone have an electronic copy of the service manual containing the procedure for driveshaft removal?

#2
snailman153624

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Symptom - CV joints clicking in turns
Problem - CV joints wearing out
Resolution - replace drivehaft

I recently attempted to replace the right front drive shaft on my 97 Mazda 626. I haven't done this for several years. I took off the wheel, brake caliper, brake rotor, tie rod and removed the bolt holding the lower ball joint.

I used a crow bar to separate the ball joint on the lower control arm from the wheel hub assembly. The lower ball joint was loose but there was some compressing force pushing the lower control arm ball joint up into the wheel hub assembly. I think it was caused by a little rod connecting the lower control arm to the anti-sway bar. I tried to disconnect this rod from the lower control arm but the threads on the bolt were rusted and the bolt itself pivots like a ball joint. So you need to hold the bolt still using an allen wrench and use a box-end wrench to remove the nut. It's very difficult to get at when you are on a floor in a condominium garage.

Can someone tell me if I am correct about disconnecting the anti-sway bar from the lower control arm to remove the compression on the ball joint? If so, how do I disconnect it without cutting it off with a torch? If I am wrong about this, what do I need to do to remove this compression?

Does anyone have an electronic copy of the service manual containing the procedure for driveshaft removal?


I did my engine swap in a 1-car condo garage, trust me, I know your pain!

However, you can relieve the swaybar tension by having both front wheels in the air. The swaybar simply couples both control arms together, in effect trying to move them in parallel.

You can also try and remove the other swaybar endlink if this proves insufficient, etc.

#3
auto_swman

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I forgot that the sway bar is basically a spring connecting the frame to BOTH sides of the suspension. So rather than remove the swaybar bracket, I can relieve the swaybar tension on the lower control arm by raising the other side of the front end. Simple and sweet, I love it. B) Thanks snailman.

Question: concerning the driveshaft connection at the transmission, is there a nut or bolt locking the driveshaft into the transmission, or will the driveshaft slide out once it is disconnected from the wheel assembly?

#4
NickR

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The driveshaft will slide out of the tranny (with a little persuasion!). There is no bolt, just a springclip around the very end of the axle, inside the tranny. But sometimes it takes a lot of force to get the axle out of the tranny. Most people use a prybar, sometimes hitting the end of the prybar with a sledgehammer. Alternatively, a "picklefork" (used for extracting balljoints and tie-rod ends) can be used as a wedge to get the axle out.

Don't remove both axles at once. (Just in case).

#5
auto_swman

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Thank you NickR, I appreciate the feedback.

#6
supercharged

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  • Car: 1994 626 2.0D comprex manual (now sold) 1995 Mercedes Benz E220
mine has been clicking for 16 months... and my old vauxhall asda was clicking for a couple of years!!! Sounds like a nasty job to me!! Anyone wanna do it for twenty quid? :rolleyes:




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