Step 1 Collect Needed Parts and special tools (list will be adjusted as the guide is written)
- New Timing Belt
- New (or reman) Water Pump
- Tensioner Spring
- Tensioner Pulley (if higher mileage)*
- Idler Pulley (If VERY high mileage) *
- VC Gasket*
- Gasket Scrapper
- Torque Wrench **
- Jack, Stand, Wood Blocks
- Black RTV sealant (I do not recommend "Ultra Black")
- Metric Allen/hex Key set (Or 1/4" - may require sanding to fit)
- Plastic Baggies and Sharpie
- Piece of Cardboard
- Feeler Gauge Set ***
** Highly recommended.
*** Perfect time to check your valve clearance for you guys with solid lifters (98+)
Step 2 Prep work
Make sure you have a lot of time (like a weekend). If you are changing the water pump, flush the system with water - do't forget the heater core. You want only water in the cooling system because when you remove the water pump, you probably will have a mini flood eject from the block. DO NOT change the oil (yet) - if any debris falls into the system, you want to catch it early (and not 3K miles later). Allow the engine to completely cool down.
Use the plastic baggies and sharpie to mark EVERY fitting you remove. This will save you a great deal of time.
Step 3 Getting Started
Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. I supported my car on the frame of the car just behind where the front unibody attaches to the main beams of the car (sorry, not sure on the technical wording of that). You'll see it, just two bars about the same width as your jack stand cups That is not oil from my car http://mazda626.net/...tyle_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif
Remove the Right wheel. Remove the splash guard (note the rust from using 100% water for about 600 miles). Tip Put the Lug back on the wheel to protect the threading and to keep track of them.
Step 4 Removing the belts
Sorry I neglected to take pictures of this - but I can offer help if you don't know how. First the PS/ac belt. Remove the PS belt guard with a philips screw driver head, there are two bolt/screws.
If you look just in front / below the PS pump, you will see a long threaded bolt. That is the bolt that apples tension to the PS pulley. Just below the PS pump is another bolt like thing. That locks the PS pump to the tensioner track. First you need to loosen that bolt with a 14mm wrench. Once it is a little loose, look at where the PS bracket attaches to the head. There is another 14mm bolt that goes through the head and attaches to the PS pump support bracket. Loosen that a few turns. Now, with a 14mm wrench, begin the slow process of loosening the pump by turning that bolt. Once enough tension has been relieved remove the belt.
Now, without disconnecting hoses, remove the PS pump. Again I am sorry, I forgot to take pictures of this step. Don't forget to remove the two bolts that secure the hose to the VC.
Step 5WP Pulley and Belt
DO NOT DO WHAT I DID. I removed the belt before dealing with the pulley. It is near impossible to take the pulley off without the belt holding it in place. Using a 10mm wrench, loosen the 4 WP pulley bolts. You may have to turn the crank by hand in order to access all of the bolts.
I went a little out of this order to make pictures easier That bolt hole in the top right of the picture is where the PS pump pivot bolt goes http://mazda626.net/...tyle_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif
Once the pulley bolts are loose, we now can remove the belt. It took me a little bit to find the alternator pivot bolt because its hidden for some odd reason. Again, I did not take pictures for this step (related to the last step). But behind that arrow a little bit, you'll find a bolt on a bracket. Use some common sense to make sure you found the right bolt. Its gonna be connected to the alternator somehow. Loosen that bolt, then loosen the tensioner bolt on the alternator (again, 14mm)