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#299116 I Have Some 626 Diagrams And Specs. Does Anyone Need Them?

Posted by s_tolstov on 17 April 2010 - 11:32 AM

Found them online a long time ago. Saved them on my computer. Site is down. I didn't have a chance unfortunately to download all the files, there were a lot more specific to doing various installations and removals.

All 626 related, they seem intended for years 1999-2002 both i4 and V6 it seems;

Wiring diagrams;

Air conditioning
Cooling Fans
Door locks
Engine controls
Exterior Lights Backup Lamps Circuit
Exterior Lights Exterior Lamps Circuit
Headlights with DRL
Headlights without DRL
Interior Lights
Power Distribution
Power Windows
Sound Systems Bose
Sound Systems Standard
Starting Charging Charging Circuit
Starting Charging Starting Circuit

Specifications tables;

2.0L (FS) Engines Firing order 1-3-4-2 Distributorless ignition system
Alignment Specifications
Brake Specifications
Crankshaft & Connecting Rods Specifications
Engine & Vehicle Identification
General Engine Specifications
Piston & Ring Specifications
Serpentine drive belt routing--1.5L, 1.8L and 2.0L engines
Tire & Wheel Specifications
Torque Specifications
Valve Specifications

Also instructions on how to; [NO PICTURES]

Install/remove alternator
Install/remove distributor
Ignition Timing ADJUSTMENT
Install/remove Starter motor

Does anyone need them?

I'm willing to upload them if someone needs any.

Edit: You know what... I'll just upload them. So here you go.

Attached Files

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#286327 Krispykream Minis Sweepstakes

Posted by NDM on 02 May 2009 - 11:17 AM

Posted Image

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Rules/Terms for Sweepstakes

Posters Comments: Mmmmm Tasty?
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#127477 Smoking Tail Pipe

Posted by blackshine007 on 02 January 2005 - 04:07 PM

This is a repost from another site found by member BOARDMAKER:

Smoking from the tailpipe has been a problem with the Mazda 626, MX-6, B2000 and B2200 with FE and F2 engines. These engines have a timing belt driving the camshaft. The problem is not often seen in the chain driven 2.0L engines. The customer's complaint is smoke from the tailpipe after starting a cold engine. This has been a problem since this engine came out on the 1983 Mazda 626. The smoke may be blue or white and it clearly smells like oil. The condition usually happens after exceeding 100,000 miles, but has been experienced with as little as 70,000 miles. The latter can usually be attributed to poor oil and filter maintenance.

After the engine has run a few minutes, the smoke usually dissipates. As the engine warms, the oil rings do a better job of sealing. Add a warm catalytic converter cleaning up what gets past, and very little smoke is then seen coming from the tail pipe. The actual amount of oil consumed is usually very low with this problem.

The problem is with the oil control rings. Either they become stuck in the groove or, more commonly, the ring is so badly worn that it won't seal well enough to keep the oil off the cylinder wall. If the oil rings are stuck because they are packed with carbon, the owner needs to do a better job of maintenance. In the case of the worn ring, it's still a re-ring job because the oil rings lost the friction battle with the block.

The cylinder block has a very high nickel and carbon content, which makes the cylinder walls very hard, so there is little wear on the cylinder. Rarely will you see a ring ridge or any taper to the cylinder. The honing marks may still be visible. In some cases, the oil control rings have been found to be worn so much that the oil control ring spacer/expander has been wearing on the cylinder wall.

To repair, clean the ring grooves (a used broken compression ring works great for this), deglaze the cylinders, clean and reassemble. You may want to replace the valve stem seals and do a valve job, if needed. Since the guides for the valves are bronze inserts, there is little wear. Smoking on start-up doesn't always mean valve seals ... in fact, these days it's almost always rings
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#357569 (Nsfw) Post Pics That Made You Lol

Posted by dan atkins on 28 March 2013 - 09:04 PM

Here is another classic with a twist.


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#357220 (Nsfw) Post Pics That Made You Lol

Posted by XeNoMoRpH on 25 March 2013 - 03:17 PM

Thought this was funny:


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#353897 The 'official' Bs Thread.

Posted by bobtheo on 01 February 2013 - 10:29 PM

its crazy how people will do anything to help them move out, the guy who tried selling me the 626 is now gonna give it to me in trade of helping him move. im really happy right now!

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#349703 Mazda 626 1978-83 Parts

Posted by 82 coupe on 19 November 2012 - 03:26 AM

2.0L CB engine good for rebuild or parts has alternator a/c fan and shroud inlet with a nikki carby $200ono
5 speed gearbox good as new $250ono
clutch heavy duty with flywheel $80ono
or complete eng/box with clutch $350ono
towbar with tongue $50ono
plastic bumpers front/rear ok condition $100ono
extractors and exhaust system $100ono
radiator in good condition $50ono

all parts can be sold or swapped parts i need are
1: lsd diff center that will fit an 81 626 diff housing
2: s1 626 steal bumpers complete in black or chrome
3: front grille for a 81 626
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#347697 My Probe's Restoration Thread

Posted by lastexile on 18 October 2012 - 12:03 PM

So you mean to tell me you stole somebody elses shower curtain? What kinda person are you going around stealing peoples shower curtains?
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#325617 Cheap 2-Ton Engine Hoist - $26.95

Posted by XeNoMoRpH on 02 November 2011 - 10:41 AM

Hey guys,

I figured I'd repost this. Advance Auto has a discontinued 2-ton engine hoist that is really cheap right now. It is $26.95 (yes, $26.95, no typo). Why so cheap? Apparently that is their model. A discontinued part gets cheaper and cheaper to help move it out.

The catch? It can only be bought in store if they have it in stock. I'd recommend calling around. Ask for the SKU # 9040044

I'm going to call around a bit more and see if I can't find one or a couple :smile:

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#291730 Ashampoo Burning Studio 2010 Free

Posted by NDM on 05 November 2009 - 11:26 AM

Heres how to get a legit copy of Ashampoo Burning Studio for free. Enjoy!



( copy and link in your browser )



( copy and link in your browser )

Original Source
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#358377 (Nsfw) Post Pics That Made You Lol

Posted by dan atkins on 07 April 2013 - 03:18 PM

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#357528 (Nsfw) Post Pics That Made You Lol

Posted by PrinceValorum on 28 March 2013 - 01:52 PM

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#355281 (Nsfw) Post Pics That Made You Lol

Posted by ND28 on 25 February 2013 - 05:59 PM









---------- Post added at 11:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:39 AM ----------





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#353165 2012 Gc's Are Still Lookin Good!

Posted by madaz_gc_85 on 18 January 2013 - 07:30 PM

Here is the Green GC Turbo FINALLY!, its been a while


Has a BIT of cosmetic/superficial wear/damage apart from that looks, smells and feels awesome!


Has a VLT 35% on side windows and the rear sun louvers on back, Interior hardly has any sun/UV damage becouse of it.


Header covers i did a few months ago turned the way i expected, after all i did have to sand most of it cos of the rust being in deep, nice purpleish/blue now


Oil catch can, Digital boost gauge, LED Brake/Park/reverse and indicator bulbs, MSD Blaster 3 coil, And custom Number Plates...lol



Panoramic view of interior front and back.......

Still the factory paint and in swarve condition.......


Now she gets to enjoy a few more Queensland sunsets with me.........

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#352102 Djdevon3's Recognizer

Posted by djdevon3 on 31 December 2012 - 07:50 PM

What a freakin day.  I'm exhausted.


Finally got it.  What a pain in the ass.  Took me another 3 hours today.  Use the crane and jack to see-saw it into place.  It was like playing Contra.  Up, up, down, down, left, right, up, up, down, down, push from the back, pull from the back, etc...  Finally got it all lined up and I could feel the splines on the flywheel grab hold.  There was a 4mm gap between the engine and trans.  Same crap different day with that 4mm gap it seems to crop up no matter what parts I'm working with.  Got the bolts started and when you start to tighten them down the gap disappears, the transmission slides onto the dowel pins, and everything seals up.  Probably would have been a good idea to lubricate the dowel pins to make it easier to slide the trans on.  Any kind of rust on the dowel pins will make the trans near impossible to install.  The dowel pins have to be in perfect condition.


When you can't get them to match up no matter what you do... it means the trans is resting on the flywheel.  Opened this up the next day to see the damage from leaving it like that overnight.  A couple of tiny shavings but nothing even minor as a problem.  Checked the clutch cover fingers and they were good too.




Here's the way I went about it which actually worked.  A load balancer is definitely warranted but when you have to make due with 1 chain here's the best routing of the chain to get it somewhat level.  When used in conjunction with a jack underneath it's definitely doable.




See if you can spot the potential hazard here.  Yeah it's stupid but I didn't have another way and too lazy to run up to the hardware store for the millionth time during this project.  Surprisingly, it worked without incident, whew.  The chain is one long chain.  Didn't have a way to connect it so I hung it on the hook and it didn't fit there at all, maybe 2mm of grab.  That's all that was holding the entire thing up.




Because everything was hanging by a string I moved the crane and jack about 1" at a time being very very cautious.




Here's what it looked like from my angle of pulling up on the tranny to get the bolts lined up while working the crane and the jack (not simultaneously).




After a couple hours of working on it finally got them to line up without fear of stripping the trans-to-engine bolts. 




View from the top




While inspecting the mating surface I noticed that the trans has quite a bit of overhang.  I think this might be evidence of the ATX and MTX blocks being slightly different.






Then I jacked up the transmission, bolted in the driver side transmission mount, removed the crane, removed the jack, and she's fully sitting on 2 engine mounts right now by herself. 


Made some progress today, feels good, gonna get drunk, drink some champange for New Years, and get back to it first thing in the morning.

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#349078 1983 626 Slammed

Posted by lifewontwait on 07 November 2012 - 12:03 AM

Posted Image

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#348618 1979-1982 626 Engine & Gearbox For Sale

Posted by 82 coupe on 31 October 2012 - 03:44 PM

hi i have a mazda 626 coupe that i have pulled the engine and 5peed gearbox out of.
The engine has done about 275000km the gearbox unknown km the oil in it is clear and the gear changes are smooth the clutch is still good and same for the fly wheel all up i would like $350 ono.

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#323294 Djdevon3's Guide: How To Pull Obd-I Codes (1993-1995) (I4 Or V6)

Posted by djdevon3 on 03 October 2011 - 08:32 AM

Key On Engine Running (KOER) Testing Procedures


After you have corrected any problems in the KOEO test and have passed with 111 System OK you are now ready to perform the KOER test. This test checks all sensors and engine functions while they are in their normal operating states. This test requires up to three inputs from the driver during the test. The first input requires that the brake pedal be depressed, the second requires that the steering wheel be turned at least one-half turn and then released. Finally on cars equipped with an automatic transmission, the Overdrive Off Switch (O/D) must be activated, then deactivated.


As with the KOEO test, the KOER test will repeat codes twice during its display cycle.

1. Have a paper and pen ready so you can write down any codes output by the test.

2. With your reader disconnected from the EEC-IV diagnostic port, start and run the engine at 2,000 RPM for two minutes. This is to bring the heated oxygen sensor and engine to their normal operating temperatures.

3. Shut the engine off, connect your reader, then restart the vehicle (within a reasonable amount of time as long as it's still warmed up, there's no rush).

4. Your reader will flash your Engine ID Code (it's really just a detected cylinder count divided by 2). For example, on a 2.0L Mazda 626 it will pulse two times, on a 2.5L V6 it will pulse three times. (Equus 3145 code reader correctly deciphers it for you and displays 4 for a 2.0L and 6 for a 2.5L). 

5. Make sure your steering wheel is straight prior to beginning step 5.


Immediately after you see the Engine ID Code;

Turn the steering wheel 1/2 turn (power steering input) hold it there for 3 seconds then reset the steering wheel to straight.

Depress and release the brake pedal (brake pressure input).

Lastly, cycle the overdrive switch on then off (O/D input).


Failure to do this correctly will result in many false-positive error codes such as power steering pressure out of bounds, brake vacuum signal undetected, transmission overdrive signal undetected, a couple of other error codes. You won't know which are real codes and which are false positives. It's easier with a code reader but with a check engine light pulses it's a lot of flashes (about 15-20 of them) just to get through the false codes YOU generated by not following procedure. Do it right and avoid the time and hassle of going through false error codes.


6. Dynamic Response Test (code 10 = 1 single pulse separator) for other vehicles.
On other vehicles you might see a single pulse that indicates that you should quickly go Wide Open Throttle (WOT). This test checks to verify the functionality of the Throttle Position (TP), Mass Air Flow (MAF), and Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensors. After a pause of 5 to 20 seconds BEFORE the KOER codes, you may receive a Dynamic Response Code (10). This will be a single pulse on your reader that indicates the EEC-IV is requesting a WOT input from you. If you detect this code, briefly depress the throttle to WOT. Failure to do so will generate an error code. In my experience so far, the Mazda 626 with EEC-IV does not request the WOT response prior to KOER codes.  So for Mazda 626 owners you can completely skip Step 6, for other vehicles owners (not Mazda 626, MX6, Probe, or Telstar) with EEC-IV that stumble upon this article in the future, step 6 might apply to you.


7. After a pause of about 4 to 15 seconds if everything checks out OK, you should receive a code "111." If not, the EEC-IV will display all trouble codes it has received.  It will first display hard faults and then continuous memory codes (KAM).  Each code will output twice. Record these code numbers or pulses. 

8. Once you have retrieved KOER codes you may turn the car off. Turn the car off with the code reader still attached. Removing the code reader (Equus tool or jumper pin) while the car is still running and in diagnostic mode will clear your codes.

9 After the codes repeat and the KOER is completed you can then perform a cylinder balance test by lightly pushing the acceleration pedal (quarter to half throttle). The cylinder balance test can take 2-5 minutes per cycle and there are 3 cycles (levels) which might be needed to properly complete that test.

10. You can repeat the test as many times as you like to check for consistency (recommend at least twice).


Some codes might share OBD-I codes but it's best to check for EEC-IV codes first.
For a list of EEC-IV codes please visit TroubleCodes.net.

Please note that vehicles prior to 1991 use 2 digit codes and 1991+ vehicles use 3 digit codes.

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#302199 Free Road & Track Magazine 1 Year

Posted by NDM on 23 July 2010 - 07:20 PM

Found another free car magazine subscription today via Fatwallet for 1 year free of road & track magazine

Enjoy 2x for one day! Check out the 1 year free of car and driver here


Get one year free here: rewardsgold.com via Fatwallet
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#291734 Free Soccer Ball By Mail

Posted by NDM on 05 November 2009 - 11:57 AM

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Cut out three or more UPC codes from any SCOTT® products* and mail them along with your first and last name, complete address and phone number to:

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Limit 1 (ONE) per person, per address. Please allow 6-8 weeks for processing. Requests for fulfillment to PO Boxes will not be accepted. Requests that in Kimberly-Clark’s sole discretion do not comply with terms and conditions of offer, including fraudulent, illegible, incomplete or inaccurate requests, are invalid. Not responsible for lost, late, stolen, misdirected, postage due or undelivered responses. This offer may not be republished without written consent from Kimberly-Clark. Void where prohibited or restricted by law. Offer good only in the United States.

* Until supplies last.


I dont think I have a single scott product thtough . . . I hope you all do though!
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