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#299116 I Have Some 626 Diagrams And Specs. Does Anyone Need Them?

Posted by s_tolstov on 17 April 2010 - 11:32 AM

Found them online a long time ago. Saved them on my computer. Site is down. I didn't have a chance unfortunately to download all the files, there were a lot more specific to doing various installations and removals.

All 626 related, they seem intended for years 1999-2002 both i4 and V6 it seems;

Wiring diagrams;

Air conditioning
Cooling Fans
Door locks
Engine controls
Exterior Lights Backup Lamps Circuit
Exterior Lights Exterior Lamps Circuit
Headlights with DRL
Headlights without DRL
Interior Lights
Power Distribution
Power Windows
Sound Systems Bose
Sound Systems Standard
Starting Charging Charging Circuit
Starting Charging Starting Circuit

Specifications tables;

2.0L (FS) Engines Firing order 1-3-4-2 Distributorless ignition system
Alignment Specifications
Brake Specifications
Crankshaft & Connecting Rods Specifications
Engine & Vehicle Identification
General Engine Specifications
Piston & Ring Specifications
Serpentine drive belt routing--1.5L, 1.8L and 2.0L engines
Tire & Wheel Specifications
Torque Specifications
Valve Specifications

Also instructions on how to; [NO PICTURES]

Install/remove alternator
Install/remove distributor
Ignition Timing ADJUSTMENT
Install/remove Starter motor

Does anyone need them?

I'm willing to upload them if someone needs any.

Edit: You know what... I'll just upload them. So here you go.

Attached Files

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#357569 (Nsfw) Post Pics That Made You Lol

Posted by dan atkins on 28 March 2013 - 09:04 PM

Here is another classic with a twist.


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#357220 (Nsfw) Post Pics That Made You Lol

Posted by XeNoMoRpH on 25 March 2013 - 03:17 PM

Thought this was funny:


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#353897 The 'official' Bs Thread.

Posted by bobtheo on 01 February 2013 - 10:29 PM

its crazy how people will do anything to help them move out, the guy who tried selling me the 626 is now gonna give it to me in trade of helping him move. im really happy right now!

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#349703 Mazda 626 1978-83 Parts

Posted by 82 coupe on 19 November 2012 - 03:26 AM

2.0L CB engine good for rebuild or parts has alternator a/c fan and shroud inlet with a nikki carby $200ono
5 speed gearbox good as new $250ono
clutch heavy duty with flywheel $80ono
or complete eng/box with clutch $350ono
towbar with tongue $50ono
plastic bumpers front/rear ok condition $100ono
extractors and exhaust system $100ono
radiator in good condition $50ono

all parts can be sold or swapped parts i need are
1: lsd diff center that will fit an 81 626 diff housing
2: s1 626 steal bumpers complete in black or chrome
3: front grille for a 81 626
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#347697 My Probe's Restoration Thread

Posted by lastexile on 18 October 2012 - 12:03 PM

So you mean to tell me you stole somebody elses shower curtain? What kinda person are you going around stealing peoples shower curtains?
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#325617 Cheap 2-Ton Engine Hoist - $26.95

Posted by XeNoMoRpH on 02 November 2011 - 10:41 AM

Hey guys,

I figured I'd repost this. Advance Auto has a discontinued 2-ton engine hoist that is really cheap right now. It is $26.95 (yes, $26.95, no typo). Why so cheap? Apparently that is their model. A discontinued part gets cheaper and cheaper to help move it out.

The catch? It can only be bought in store if they have it in stock. I'd recommend calling around. Ask for the SKU # 9040044

I'm going to call around a bit more and see if I can't find one or a couple :smile:

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#291730 Ashampoo Burning Studio 2010 Free

Posted by NDM on 05 November 2009 - 11:26 AM

Heres how to get a legit copy of Ashampoo Burning Studio for free. Enjoy!



( copy and link in your browser )



( copy and link in your browser )

Original Source
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#286327 Krispykream Minis Sweepstakes

Posted by NDM on 02 May 2009 - 11:17 AM

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One (1) GRAND PRIZE: Winner’s option of either (1) 2009 MINI Cooper including cold-weather package, sport package and convenience package, sales taxes (owed by consumer to dealer) and tags (ARV: $25,340), or $25,000 in cash.

Ends: May 31, 2009

Minimum Age: 18 years and older with a valid drivers license

Open To: Legal residents in the 48 Contiguous United States and the District of Columbia (Void in Alaska and Hawaii)

Entry Frequency: Daily

Entry Form for Sweepstakes
Rules/Terms for Sweepstakes

Posters Comments: Mmmmm Tasty?
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#127477 Smoking Tail Pipe

Posted by blackshine007 on 02 January 2005 - 04:07 PM

This is a repost from another site found by member BOARDMAKER:

Smoking from the tailpipe has been a problem with the Mazda 626, MX-6, B2000 and B2200 with FE and F2 engines. These engines have a timing belt driving the camshaft. The problem is not often seen in the chain driven 2.0L engines. The customer's complaint is smoke from the tailpipe after starting a cold engine. This has been a problem since this engine came out on the 1983 Mazda 626. The smoke may be blue or white and it clearly smells like oil. The condition usually happens after exceeding 100,000 miles, but has been experienced with as little as 70,000 miles. The latter can usually be attributed to poor oil and filter maintenance.

After the engine has run a few minutes, the smoke usually dissipates. As the engine warms, the oil rings do a better job of sealing. Add a warm catalytic converter cleaning up what gets past, and very little smoke is then seen coming from the tail pipe. The actual amount of oil consumed is usually very low with this problem.

The problem is with the oil control rings. Either they become stuck in the groove or, more commonly, the ring is so badly worn that it won't seal well enough to keep the oil off the cylinder wall. If the oil rings are stuck because they are packed with carbon, the owner needs to do a better job of maintenance. In the case of the worn ring, it's still a re-ring job because the oil rings lost the friction battle with the block.

The cylinder block has a very high nickel and carbon content, which makes the cylinder walls very hard, so there is little wear on the cylinder. Rarely will you see a ring ridge or any taper to the cylinder. The honing marks may still be visible. In some cases, the oil control rings have been found to be worn so much that the oil control ring spacer/expander has been wearing on the cylinder wall.

To repair, clean the ring grooves (a used broken compression ring works great for this), deglaze the cylinders, clean and reassemble. You may want to replace the valve stem seals and do a valve job, if needed. Since the guides for the valves are bronze inserts, there is little wear. Smoking on start-up doesn't always mean valve seals ... in fact, these days it's almost always rings
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#374900 (Nsfw) Post Pics That Made You Lol

Posted by XeNoMoRpH on 19 February 2014 - 08:35 PM

This is a long one...



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#357319 Djdevon3's Recognizer

Posted by ike621 on 26 March 2013 - 07:28 PM

Fapping doesn't count as a secret project...

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#356954 The 'official' Bs Thread.

Posted by djdevon3 on 21 March 2013 - 05:18 PM


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#356617 My Probe's Restoration Thread

Posted by njintau_fsd on 16 March 2013 - 07:20 PM

So...didn't get too much done today.  I went to the j/y to score some body panels but unfortunately no luck. :/ . For whatever reason there seems to be a sudden dearth in PGT's at my local pullapart, all I've been seeing is FS Probes.


Went ahead and used some JB Kwik Weld to reinforce the Door Guards and Side Skirts.  I went ahead and Macgyvered a way to get the Side Skirts to stay in place while the JB Weld cured:






You gotta admit, that's a pretty badass setup. :P

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#352102 Djdevon3's Recognizer

Posted by djdevon3 on 31 December 2012 - 07:50 PM

What a freakin day.  I'm exhausted.


Finally got it.  What a pain in the ass.  Took me another 3 hours today.  Use the crane and jack to see-saw it into place.  It was like playing Contra.  Up, up, down, down, left, right, up, up, down, down, push from the back, pull from the back, etc...  Finally got it all lined up and I could feel the splines on the flywheel grab hold.  There was a 4mm gap between the engine and trans.  Same crap different day with that 4mm gap it seems to crop up no matter what parts I'm working with.  Got the bolts started and when you start to tighten them down the gap disappears, the transmission slides onto the dowel pins, and everything seals up.  Probably would have been a good idea to lubricate the dowel pins to make it easier to slide the trans on.  Any kind of rust on the dowel pins will make the trans near impossible to install.  The dowel pins have to be in perfect condition.


When you can't get them to match up no matter what you do... it means the trans is resting on the flywheel.  Opened this up the next day to see the damage from leaving it like that overnight.  A couple of tiny shavings but nothing even minor as a problem.  Checked the clutch cover fingers and they were good too.




Here's the way I went about it which actually worked.  A load balancer is definitely warranted but when you have to make due with 1 chain here's the best routing of the chain to get it somewhat level.  When used in conjunction with a jack underneath it's definitely doable.




See if you can spot the potential hazard here.  Yeah it's stupid but I didn't have another way and too lazy to run up to the hardware store for the millionth time during this project.  Surprisingly, it worked without incident, whew.  The chain is one long chain.  Didn't have a way to connect it so I hung it on the hook and it didn't fit there at all, maybe 2mm of grab.  That's all that was holding the entire thing up.




Because everything was hanging by a string I moved the crane and jack about 1" at a time being very very cautious.




Here's what it looked like from my angle of pulling up on the tranny to get the bolts lined up while working the crane and the jack (not simultaneously).




After a couple hours of working on it finally got them to line up without fear of stripping the trans-to-engine bolts. 




View from the top




While inspecting the mating surface I noticed that the trans has quite a bit of overhang.  I think this might be evidence of the ATX and MTX blocks being slightly different.






Then I jacked up the transmission, bolted in the driver side transmission mount, removed the crane, removed the jack, and she's fully sitting on 2 engine mounts right now by herself. 


Made some progress today, feels good, gonna get drunk, drink some champange for New Years, and get back to it first thing in the morning.

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#350557 1989 Telstar Hatch Resto/mod/build Thread.

Posted by FADE26 on 07 December 2012 - 12:28 AM

Active ingredient = Little microscopic pink bunnies with big baskets, running around the engine picking up all the yucky stuff,...hmm
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#349078 1983 626 Slammed

Posted by lifewontwait on 07 November 2012 - 12:03 AM

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#323294 Djdevon3's Guide: How To Pull Obd-I Codes (1993-1995) (I4 Or V6)

Posted by djdevon3 on 03 October 2011 - 08:32 AM

Key On Engine Running (KOER) Testing Procedures


After you have corrected any problems in the KOEO test and have passed with 111 System OK you are now ready to perform the KOER test. This test checks all sensors and engine functions while they are in their normal operating states. This test requires up to three inputs from the driver during the test. The first input requires that the brake pedal be depressed, the second requires that the steering wheel be turned at least one-half turn and then released. Finally on cars equipped with an automatic transmission, the Overdrive Off Switch (O/D) must be activated, then deactivated.


As with the KOEO test, the KOER test will repeat codes twice during its display cycle.

1. Have a paper and pen ready so you can write down any codes output by the test.

2. With your reader disconnected from the EEC-IV diagnostic port, start and run the engine at 2,000 RPM for two minutes. This is to bring the heated oxygen sensor and engine to their normal operating temperatures.

3. Shut the engine off, connect your reader, then restart the vehicle (within a reasonable amount of time as long as it's still warmed up, there's no rush).

4. Your reader will flash your Engine ID Code (it's really just a detected cylinder count divided by 2). For example, on a 2.0L Mazda 626 it will pulse two times, on a 2.5L V6 it will pulse three times. (Equus 3145 code reader correctly deciphers it for you and displays 4 for a 2.0L and 6 for a 2.5L). 

5. Make sure your steering wheel is straight prior to beginning step 5.


Immediately after you see the Engine ID Code;

Turn the steering wheel 1/2 turn (power steering input) hold it there for 3 seconds then reset the steering wheel to straight.

Depress and release the brake pedal (brake pressure input).

Lastly, cycle the overdrive switch on then off (O/D input).


Failure to do this correctly will result in many false-positive error codes such as power steering pressure out of bounds, brake vacuum signal undetected, transmission overdrive signal undetected, a couple of other error codes. You won't know which are real codes and which are false positives. It's easier with a code reader but with a check engine light pulses it's a lot of flashes (about 15-20 of them) just to get through the false codes YOU generated by not following procedure. Do it right and avoid the time and hassle of going through false error codes.


6. Dynamic Response Test (code 10 = 1 single pulse separator) for other vehicles.
On other vehicles you might see a single pulse that indicates that you should quickly go Wide Open Throttle (WOT). This test checks to verify the functionality of the Throttle Position (TP), Mass Air Flow (MAF), and Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensors. After a pause of 5 to 20 seconds BEFORE the KOER codes, you may receive a Dynamic Response Code (10). This will be a single pulse on your reader that indicates the EEC-IV is requesting a WOT input from you. If you detect this code, briefly depress the throttle to WOT. Failure to do so will generate an error code. In my experience so far, the Mazda 626 with EEC-IV does not request the WOT response prior to KOER codes.  So for Mazda 626 owners you can completely skip Step 6, for other vehicles owners (not Mazda 626, MX6, Probe, or Telstar) with EEC-IV that stumble upon this article in the future, step 6 might apply to you.


7. After a pause of about 4 to 15 seconds if everything checks out OK, you should receive a code "111." If not, the EEC-IV will display all trouble codes it has received.  It will first display hard faults and then continuous memory codes (KAM).  Each code will output twice. Record these code numbers or pulses. 

8. Once you have retrieved KOER codes you may turn the car off. Turn the car off with the code reader still attached. Removing the code reader (Equus tool or jumper pin) while the car is still running and in diagnostic mode will clear your codes.

9 After the codes repeat and the KOER is completed you can then perform a cylinder balance test by lightly pushing the acceleration pedal (quarter to half throttle). The cylinder balance test can take 2-5 minutes per cycle and there are 3 cycles (levels) which might be needed to properly complete that test.

10. You can repeat the test as many times as you like to check for consistency (recommend at least twice).


Some codes might share OBD-I codes but it's best to check for EEC-IV codes first.
For a list of EEC-IV codes please visit TroubleCodes.net.

Please note that vehicles prior to 1991 use 2 digit codes and 1991+ vehicles use 3 digit codes.

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#299782 Replacing Gauge Lights In Instrument Cluster

Posted by cbwallace on 06 May 2010 - 10:56 PM

I had this entire tutorial/walkthrough written up and my browser crashed so for now, this is the abbreviated version. To prevent this from being lost in case my hosted pictures one day flake out, I have attached all of the photos in a pair of ZIP files.

T25 Torx Driver
11/16, 17mm or Adjustable Wrench
Bulbs (5 main bulbs are #194, 14 smaller bulbs are #73 bulbs)

Note 1:
The number of #73 bulbs in your cluster may be slightly different depending on what features your car has. Also, some people have called for #74 bulbs. These are the same size bulbs, but #74 bulbs are about 2.5x as bright and last about 1/10 as long (1,000 hrs vs. 12,000 hrs).

Note 2:
At various stages it may be helpful to raise or lower your steering column. This seems obvious but I think it's one of those "good lord how did I not think of that" features, so here's your friendly reminder.

1. Remove left dash panel. This panel just pulls away at the front and will swing out towards the door. You don't need to completely remove it as the torx screws you need are along the front edge of the dash.
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2. Remove hood release cable bracket (wrench). You only need to turn the nut behind the handle a few times until you can turn the whole assembly and slide it down.
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3. Remove 2 left-most torx screws. The lower screw can be hard to get to if you have a long T25 driver. I ended up putting a T25 bit from a universal screwdriver set into a 6mm socket and used a ratchet which was much easier.
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4. Remove lower dash panel. This is held in by 3 panel clips (2 left of steering wheel, 1 right) so just pull forward and down firmly but gently. You don't need it completely off, just get the 3 clips to release and it will hang down enough to work.
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5. Remove cluster trim. This means removing 4 torx screws. 2 right above the cluster and 2 on each side of the steering wheel that you just revealed by pulling the lower panel. This also means disconnecting all of the electrical switches in the trim panel. Most are easily removed by hand. If you have the 'Swing' feature on your center vents, you can use a small flathead to push down a tab on top of its connector. The hardest connector by far is the power mirror, but luckily you don't have to unhook this. If you are careful you can swing the whole trim panel over the steering wheel and lean it left of the seat, saving you the struggle of this stupid connector.
EDIT: As noted by XeNoMoRpH - a small screwdriver can be used to release the mirror switch harness, which would allow you to completely remove the cluster trim panel and set it aside.
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6. Remove cluster. This is 4 more torx screws and the cluster will pull straight forward. There are 3 harnesses on the back that are easily removed by hand but mine were a little stiff so I had to wiggle them just a bit.
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7. Replace bulbs. Here you can see the back of the cluster. The bulbs are all in plastic housings that require 1/4 turn to release or install. Some of the bulbs have colored "gel" covers on them which you can either (a) try to remove and install on the new bulbs, (b) replace with new gel covers which are sometimes available at parts stores or Wal-Mart, or © decide you don't care right now and just install the plain bulbs. I originally tried (a) but ripped one of the covers, got annoyed and went with ©. I don't think my cluster looks different without the gel covers though it has been a while since my lights went out. In any case, as you can see in the end it still looks normal without the gel covers.
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8. Reassemble and marvel at your results.
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Attached Files

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#291734 Free Soccer Ball By Mail

Posted by NDM on 05 November 2009 - 11:57 AM

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To receive your soccer ball by mail:

Cut out three or more UPC codes from any SCOTT® products* and mail them along with your first and last name, complete address and phone number to:

Soccer Ball Offer
8250 NW 27th Street, Suite 301
Miami, FL 33122

Offer begins on October 15th, 2009 and ends on November 15th, 2009, or while supplies last. Letter must be postmarked by November 16th, 2009 and must be received by no later than November 30th, 2009.

Limit 1 (ONE) per person, per address. Please allow 6-8 weeks for processing. Requests for fulfillment to PO Boxes will not be accepted. Requests that in Kimberly-Clark’s sole discretion do not comply with terms and conditions of offer, including fraudulent, illegible, incomplete or inaccurate requests, are invalid. Not responsible for lost, late, stolen, misdirected, postage due or undelivered responses. This offer may not be republished without written consent from Kimberly-Clark. Void where prohibited or restricted by law. Offer good only in the United States.

* Until supplies last.


I dont think I have a single scott product thtough . . . I hope you all do though!
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